83stariontravis Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 I replaced the 12a in my flatty with a 16g DSM turbo. The car is less a aggressive and less fun and doesn't seem much faster. Do I need to turn up the boost? 12a was at 10.5psi and the new 16g is at 12psi. The A/R on the new turbo is .70. My exhaust is 2.25 through a glasspack and out the back. I know its a bit small... I have a Widebody FMIC I think its a 16 row not sure tho. Fuel cut eliminated in the ecu. Car runs good. Possibly do I need to run more timing? I run non-ethanol premium always or its 100 octane aviation fuel. I'm not running the factory knock box so the car isn't pulling timing because of knock. Any other ideas before I crank up the timing and the boost and if you've seen the way I drive you know I've got a heavy foot and will blow my self to pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebird Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 lol...never had that problem. sounds like the turbine is too small for the turbine housing.Exhaust is leaving before it can spin the wheel. How does it fit between the blades and housing? is it a trim job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83stariontravis Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Eclipse housing. TD05H. It's how the turbo came brand new just re-clocked the housing for starion use. Down pipe has a separate entrance for the turbine exit and internal wastegate exit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebird Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 wastegate leak? I have the same turbo, just in the starquest ex. housing......works soooo much better than a oem turbo... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Strange ... I'd check for boost leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 check to make sure the wastegate arm is real tight.it should take a lot of force to get it on to the flapper.if it is not tight it will cause a lagy type of feel when driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebird Posted January 10, 2015 Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 I dont think the oem td05h dsm turbine housing is .70 a/rI have a couple here at home, for some reason im thinking 7cm? anywho, dsm housings are known to crack at that wastegate area, could be leaking boost.Might want to take it apart and inspect it. Also be sure the wastegate is tight., maybe try a starquest housing.....sometimes you'll have a td05h and not even know it!Happened to me....ohh i was soooo mad too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted January 10, 2015 Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 stock is like .57 A/R turbine side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 10, 2015 Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 Is it a MHI 16g or an ebay/china 16g? Ebay ones have a slightly different compressor wheel and spool a bit slower than the MHI 16g. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83stariontravis Posted January 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 Ok. The wastegate was getting held open by the exhaust pressure. The angle that the actuator connects on it changes as the WG opens and makes it harder for the actuator to pull it back closed. My boost gauge was some stupid digital dragon gauge that updated slowly with poor resolution. I replaced it with a standard mechanical one yesterday and could watch the boost go up to 12psi than drop back down to 7psi. Increased preload on the actuator arm and now the car is stupid fast. Thank you! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Glad to help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 On a side note, isn't aviation fuel oxygenated? Aka causing you to run leaner to begin with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Cary Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Dont run av gas in a car. Our fuel systems are not designed for it. If you wanna run something get 110 leaded race gas but even that isnt really good for our fuel systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntercooledFlatty Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 ...and crank up the boost to at least 15 psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83stariontravis Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Aviation fuel is 100 Octane and Leaded. Lead is potentially bad for cats and O2 sensors. My WBO2 lifespan may be shortened but I have no cat. Otherwise I can see only positive effects of running lead in your engine excluding health concerns... Oxygenated?!?!...no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Cary Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 lead can deteriorate your valves, injectors, filter and pump. Running higher octanr doesnt help if you cant properly burn the mixture. Do you have any tuning ability with the car? Like a maf translator? Safc? Piggy back or standalone? For example I have an 89 ecu, 950 primary and 1280 secondary injector, aeromotive rrfpr with base pressure at 38psi, walboro pump, and 3" maf translator setup. At wot i run my afr between 11.5-12 using 93 octane. Thats a good ratio to get the most power from that octane rating. As for the aviation fuel being oxygenated?? Im not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83stariontravis Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) lead can deteriorate your valves, injectors, filter and pump. Running higher octanr doesnt help if you cant properly burn the mixture. Do you have any tuning ability with the car? Like a maf translator? Safc? Piggy back or standalone? Oh I have none of those. I'll just run cheap gas then... Save my money for a heated wire air mass guesser signal simulator. 3 inch sensor would be best I guess bigger the more accurate (I guess.) Everyone knows my car only goes 85mph because it's an 1983 year. Maybe if I "upgraded" to an 89 ecu I could go faster and be able to tune fuel ratios for most power for whatever octane rating I choose. Until then I'll stick to regular gas since I don't have 3 potentiometers to tune with. I see a cool air intake. Its got a Nos fogger system and a T4 turbo, Dominic. I see an AIC controller. It has direct-port nitrous injection. Yeah, and a stand alone fuel management system. Not a bad way to spend 10,000 dollars. Sorry couldn't help my self there. My point is stock fuel system on the 83(I do have an upgraded fuel pump and more importantly upgraded fuel pump wiring and relay) does a pretty good job in closed loop operation with the stock karman vortex MAF sensor and open loop operation in boost at 20psi with a 16g turbo is rich and safe. Octane is for knock prevention at higher boost without pulling timing... I'm pretty sure pre-unleaded engines often need their valve seats replaced with stronger substitutes because the UNleaded gas is harder on them. I can't see why the leaded gas would hurt an injector or a pump. Would probably help. And a filter... who cares. Replace it. Often. You should anyway. They're cheap. Fuel filters existed long before modern unleaded gas and nothing about them has changed. Edited January 16, 2015 by 83stariontravis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Cary Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) I didnt spend ten grand on my setup. Far from it. A maf translator is about 200, you can get the sensor from a junk yard for 20 bucks, the fuel pressure regulator about 150 and the pump 110. Now thats around 500 total and I have been able to run my upgraded turbo just fine because I can adjust fuel trim. The karman vortex sensors are crap. Half work half dont. Keep running your setup the same way and use the higher octane. When your motor goes out from running lean (because your stock fuel system cant get more fuel into engine) dont say I didnt try to warn you. A bigger turbo means an increase in the amount of air. 12 psi from a 12a and 12 psi from a 16g are different. The amount of pressue is the same but the volume of the air is different. Edited January 16, 2015 by Turbo Cary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83stariontravis Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Nope Dominic Toretto says hot wire air density guesser costs ten thousand dollars. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=145057&hl=translator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostintsi Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Yea, your gonna blow it up at 20psi on 16g with stock injectors......unless your running crazy high fuel pressure but that's not good either and don't think you could compensate enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Yes, the leaded fuel does not hurt valves, seats, or anything internal in the engine. Like you said, it helps if anything. I was around when they switched from leaded to unleaded. We ran unleaded in our cars and never a problem. Problems could come after a lot of run time, like 100,000 miles or so. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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