83stariontravis

make sure your injector wires aren't grounding to each other or the throttle body. had this issue recently... stupid soldered injector wires...

fuel pressure stays up at 50psi and adding the diode back in removes fuel cut...

What are u smoking?!?! I removed diode because I found one of those tsb harness and I get fuel cut 9psi...

the balljoint mount is removable and very different between the two along with the length of the tie rods. Strut husings/spindle are the same except I think one pair of mine was taller and the strut inserts from my flatbody struts would not fit into the widebody housings... IIRC. I'm running pretty low now with quite a bit of camber up front. Same as a widebody lowered without camber plates tho I believe.

Floating ground. Right signal circuit is grounding through both sets of running light filaments all in series. Lowest resistance filament is lighting. Can't ground through there when the running lights are on... explaining your specific case. Trailer lights can be a pain and a half. Intermittant Floating grounds with LED trailer lights are my favorite because the brightness is basically the same when its broke to when it's intermittantly working right. Gotta add to watch out for these(below) because I've had to track them down burried under miles of electrical tape to fix trailer light wiring at least four times. I really have no idea why lots of wiring install kits come with them and uhaul and other places that install trailer light wiring insist there is nothing wrong with them dispite my suffering and the obvious "fail" plainly seen at a glance. Seriously... I'd rather see a wire nut. http://www.kuramashop.com/ebay2011/Toppier/Cable%20Gland/KW03.JPG

I would like a wider track on the front of my 83. Just did the 5 lug swap. I'm running widebody spindles with flatbody control arms. Kept the steering arms from the flatbody too. If I go to widebody control arms I probably need to swap steering arms i'm guessing. Would this also make my camber more negative?

Any chance of taking some close up pictures? Can you visually see what electronic components it has?

Looked at the picture wrong I meant the compressor wheel. Something go through the intake?

What happened to the turbo's exhaust turbine?

I figured someone would say that. Ill try that today. Plugs look rich so i put in a hacked stock maf. Problem still there but afr looks better. Heat range looks as good as it can get and i see no evidence of detonation.

I am running a 4 pin HEI ignitor for ignition and a brand new stock replacement coil. Wondering if the HEI requires a different spec coil. At full throttle I get a very slight studder that goes away if I back off a little bit. 16g turbo at 10lbs of boost. Runs great otherwise. AFR gauge shows full rich during the studdering. I am running the NGK 7031 plugs that are recommended. Maybe I need a different heat range? Going to pull plugs now to inspect. 4 pin HEI ignitor install discussed here: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=140828&st=20&hl=knock#entry1459419

So I started thinking and the 83 fuel system for sure compensates for altitude by switching a solenoid when the key goes to the on position and letting ambient air instead of intake source. Started to think I must be wrong and that the signal must go beyond my current findings into the ecu but now I am thinking that the map sensor must self calibrate at the same time as the solenoid is switched upon receiving power. So this compensation would happen outside of the ecu...(in the map sensor.)

Can you post a pic of the harness you are talking about? Same as this? http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=145097 Ok so when tracing the boost sensor signal into the ecu it doesn't seem to go very far. Looks like it goes to an ~80k ohm resistor to sensor ground and in parallel with the resistor there is also a diode to ground with the anode facing ground. I am unable to find any other places the boost signal goes inside the ecu at all... I would take a guess and say when the diode voltage is exceeded it shorts to ground killing anything that is relying on the sensor ground. If the diode was removed would I need to keep the resistor for any reason? And if this is the only place this goes in the ecu how about just cut the wire...?

I've got a hunch the factory fuel cut is in the MAP sensor. After reverse engineering the digi cluster I took a look inside the factory MAP sensor and found a few things to try. Nothing has worked yet but it almost looks like there are provisions for alternate circuitry in the sensor. Just a guess but I'm thinking there might be a mod that can easily be done for the 83 to remove the factory fuel cut. So anyone who has an 83 they think does not have factory fuel cut... I know I've talked to a couple people before.. but speak up and if you can post the part number on your map sensor that would be great for starters. Mine shows X5T20471 on the case but X5T20177 on the circuit board. Thanks!

I went and took a look at this car. It's pretty spotless except one little ding in the crease on the driver door. I don't know what I would do with this car or I would probably have to get it. Cleanest and lowest mile starquest I've ever seen for whatever that's worth. Narrow body Red leather interior Automatic 1985 Looks like nothing has ever been apart on this car.

Nope Dominic Toretto says hot wire air density guesser costs ten thousand dollars. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=145057&hl=translator

dam http://portland.crai...4844534697.html

Oh I have none of those. I'll just run cheap gas then... Save my money for a heated wire air mass guesser signal simulator. 3 inch sensor would be best I guess bigger the more accurate (I guess.) Everyone knows my car only goes 85mph because it's an 1983 year. Maybe if I "upgraded" to an 89 ecu I could go faster and be able to tune fuel ratios for most power for whatever octane rating I choose. Until then I'll stick to regular gas since I don't have 3 potentiometers to tune with. I see a cool air intake. Its got a Nos fogger system and a T4 turbo, Dominic. I see an AIC controller. It has direct-port nitrous injection. Yeah, and a stand alone fuel management system. Not a bad way to spend 10,000 dollars. Sorry couldn't help my self there. My point is stock fuel system on the 83(I do have an upgraded fuel pump and more importantly upgraded fuel pump wiring and relay) does a pretty good job in closed loop operation with the stock karman vortex MAF sensor and open loop operation in boost at 20psi with a 16g turbo is rich and safe. Octane is for knock prevention at higher boost without pulling timing... I'm pretty sure pre-unleaded engines often need their valve seats replaced with stronger substitutes because the UNleaded gas is harder on them. I can't see why the leaded gas would hurt an injector or a pump. Would probably help. And a filter... who cares. Replace it. Often. You should anyway. They're cheap. Fuel filters existed long before modern unleaded gas and nothing about them has changed.

Pretty sure it's not but I'll look into that tomorrow. I've got an 83 FSM and many multimeter to test with. lol.

Aviation fuel is 100 Octane and Leaded. Lead is potentially bad for cats and O2 sensors. My WBO2 lifespan may be shortened but I have no cat. Otherwise I can see only positive effects of running lead in your engine excluding health concerns... Oxygenated?!?!...no.

Cool. I had thought about the resistor idea when I had this issue because it came up before. Do you have a recommendation on what resistor I should use in series with the map sensor before it reaches the ecu/diode? Factory boost gauge shows the map output on the USDM 83s and it still seems consistent and linear so I am fairly confident that it is still outputting same as ever. I do have an o-scope so I could hook that up if needed or I am close to getting my wbo2 and data-logger installed and that would work as well.

Thats what I got. Simple. No surprise knock control . Just make sure you run good gas. Glad to hear I'm not the only one who had this idea.

Actually air fuel ratios are kinda irrelevant to this. Same before and after. 3 diodes in parallel or one diode the voltage is being limited to 4.3v to the ecu. Just divides the current between the three diodes to make sure the diodes can accurately shunt enough to keep the voltage steady at 4.3v when the map sensors output would normally exceed that.

Who is Sean?

Instead of a single one watt diode I added two more wired in parallel with the first so now there are three diodes dividing the current between them. Two would have probably been enough I just wanted to make sure. Apparently the factory map sensor is probably capable of outputting more than one watt and overwhelming the diode at higher boost levels.