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What did you do to your Starquest today?


Alsandr
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The MK1 poly bushings re-used the stock outer shell. I think the stedbani ones did too. The PST bushings I put on my Ford Galaxie also re-used the outer shells. It's pretty common. But not every bushing manufacturer does it that way.

 

In that case, stick with Whiteline for Control Arm bushings.

 

WHITELINE STARION PRODUCTS

 

vvv One piece control arm bushings. vvv

 

http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/thumbnail/tn_W51593.jpg

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well i have been a busy little bee lately

Primed and painted my engine

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/XLR8N/Mobile%20Uploads/20150418_161608_zpsr3sdu80h.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/XLR8N/Mobile%20Uploads/20150418_164555_zpslb0zsv5c.jpg

my SQ buddy came over and showed me what to do about sanding my car down, so ill be working on that getting the body ready for paint

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/XLR8N/Mobile%20Uploads/20150419_214013_zpsteeerund.jpg

I also removed the Torque Convertor to replace it, I removed the flexplate so i can go ahead and change the rear main seal as well, once that is changed ill mate the tranny back with the block, getting it ready to go back in the bay

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drove my car everyday for a week. didnt have any issues.

i honestly was worried that something would go wrong.

nothing did. felt good to start it up and go.

turned up the boost to 15. ad it feels strong and drives good.

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drove her out to the campsite... guys in campstore only heard me pull up and asked what i was driving. they all said that can't be a 4 cylinder import by the sound of er sounds like a V8 lol

http://www.imagehostplus.com/v2/usr/1853/IMG_4161.jpg

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Replaced the starter about a week or so ago. Last Friday morning I go into the garage to start the Old Broad and I'm greeted by a puddle of anti-freeze on the garage floor.

 

Evidently during the starter replacement I pushed up so hard on the starter getting it into place that I cracked the rubber coolant hose coming off of the nipple at the back end of the intake manifold going to it's nipple on the coolant pipe assembly at the back of the engine. That hose was dry rotted cuz of engine house heat.

 

Looking back into my maintenance records, that hose was replaced with a new Mitsu coolant hose (MD00 9016) on 10/6/2010. HHHHMMMM!!!! I called my friendly local Mitsu dealer and found out that that hose is NLA. I called around and found that NAPA has a replacement coolant hose (but ya gotta use the above Mitsu part number for them to bring it up on their computer). The NAPA part number is 10774, bar code 29762 30342. It and 2 new hose clamps cost about $15.00 incl tax.

 

Then, in the process of replacing that hose, I pushed against the hose coming off of the intake manifold nipple going to the TB and cracked it. It was heat dry rotted too! It was also a Mitsu hose (MD07 2740) replaced at the same time as the other one. DAMN, can't win for loosing. So I just bought a foot of 5/16" ID coolant hose from NAPA, cut it to size, and replaced that heat rotted hose with new hose clamps too.

 

I replaced the heater coolant supply and return hoses at the fire wall with Mitsu ones at the same time that I replaced the other two. They ain't weeping or leaking and still seem to be pliable. However I'm thinking that they are two time bombs waiting to go off and I'm gonna replace them too in the NEAR future.

 

I don't even want to think about the potential nuclear explosion that the heater coolant jumper hose under the dash will cause - cuz it's never been replaced. God, I don't want to pull the dash to change it. I now carry a jumper hose to bypass the heater if it does start weeping or leaking. ;)

 

BTW - The Old Broad has never overheated since the hoses were replaced in 2010. Plus I run a solution of 33% antifreeze to 77% DISTILLED water. This leads me to believe that the maximum safe life of a coolant hose these days is 4 years. ;)

 

All of the other coolant hoses in the engine house were replaced with new when I had the radiator rodded out and acid cleaned last Fall. Hadda pull the engine coolant pump to replace the 3/8" jumper hose between the coolant pump nipple and the coolant return pipe/tubing coming down the passenger side of the engine.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

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bursted a coupler racing a shiny red 2015 Corvette Z06

http://www.imagehostplus.com/v2/usr/1853/IMG_4222.jpg

he hits it at 45 and pulls me by a car and half, i start reeling him in, he lets off... a few miles down the road around 70 he pulls me by a car and half again, i start reeling him, he lets off and when i'm right beside him, kapow. i thought it was some sort of boost cut. he turns and goes the other way lol. down the road i find out i can't get into boost. pulled over and found bursted coupler and crack in header. need to make better charge piping and get rid of these cheap couplers

Edited by sellerfeller
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Replaced a broken poly diff mount.

2015-04-14.jpg

 

 

Do you still have this? sorry haven't been following this thread like i should. if so can i have it? i know I did not make this one. i can tell by the welds. just would like to see for sure why it failed. but via the pic im almost sure i know why. first looks to be a poor weld to the interlock component...all the weld is on the base plate and it was not properly blasted and cleaned for good poly adhesion. we do not put product out like this. you have my word on that.

Edited by wrngwae
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Do you still have this? sorry haven't been following this thread like i should. if so can i have it? i know I did not make this one. i can tell by the welds. just would like to see for sure why it failed. but via the pic im almost sure i know why. first looks to be a poor weld to the interlock component...all the weld is on the base plate and it was not properly blasted and cleaned for good poly adhesion. we do not put product out like this. you have my word on that.

 

Sure do and sure can.

It's a poor design. it failed in the heat affected zone, but the weld it self is not that good ether.

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