Fuze

Been so long since I posted real content here, tutorials and stuff like that. It's tough to judge the interest in posting certain things. Since we last talked, my Starion build is a lot different. Here's what's changed: Lazorack Motorsports full widebody kit and all associated body mods Fresh Blitz Black paint and re-cleared all carbon fiber JDM Toyota 1UZFE V8 swap with JDM Nissan S14 transmission and Collins adapter kit 17x11" custom built Work VSSS fronts and 18x12.5 Work Meister rears, 6' and 7.5' lips 3" Oval sidepipe Interior conversion/major delete Custom LED tails and fogs Sleepy Eye flip-up headlight mod Rewired whole car Once I can post images again from a web URL (my server space) I may start up a thread documenting the build for posterity. If you're on Instagram, you can find it at @battlemagnet. Cheers

After 20 years I should be a Universal Grand Master, and so should you actually. But since they gave me GM, I'm good with that though lol.

I hope this reaches the admins! Haven't been around too much but when I look at any old post I've made with images, (which are hosted on my server which has no issues,) the image URL is displayed instead of the image. To make it worse, the URLs aren't even hyperlinks, you'd need to copy/paste it to view the image. For example, this post : Can you resolve the issue by allowing hyperlinks to resolve image files inside the posts?

I mean, I feel like I deserve it you know? Newbie looks kind of crazy up there! 😭

Instagram. Then FB. The old forum model is outdated for today but the OG's still know. New people aren't coming here to look for answers, not because the answers aren't here but because generations that came after us don't want to spend a bunch of time hunting for answers, they want quick gratification. Also, and this isn't new, the attitude toward noobs hasn't always been good here, the whole "search for it before posting" response and expecting visitors to read the rules before they look for help... typical forum stuff.

They're super reliable. LOL

Trust me you don't want this POS lol.

UUUMMMMMMMMM, you know, inflation.... I did fix it up and paint it so yeah, it doesn't have the gray spray paint on it anymore. Such a nice wall decoration (got a CF one on the car) but if you get a car, we'll talk.

I don't think that's too expensive to fix a problem that annoying. Never mind the hassle of changing a steering box out more than once.

You can pour money into any car to make it fast, but when you include braking, handling, the full envelope you run into much more cost to stay even with modern performance cars. Depends on what you're comparing it to though. An S12 that lights up the tires in 3rd with a CA 1.8, the first question I'd ask is how old/skinny/cambered are those tires? My second question would be, how long do you think it'll last?

The T2 cooler is efficient for 80's tech, is neat and tidy, and will do the job with a hood vent. Still, it's not a bar and plate cooler so it's inherently not going to be as efficient as one that is, ebay or no. (Less internal surface area to dissipate heat.) Should do the trick it's not like you're boosting a lot or beating on it.

This is great research. I used the rollers years ago and never figured out why they ran the car so badly, I just gave up and put the slip rockers back in and was back in business. I admit not having the patience at the time to deal with all of this!

Ditto. Let's be real if you're in the market for an 80's car it's probably not because raw performance by modern standards is the main factor. It's probably because 80's cars have some swagger and a clean, dropped S12 with tasteful mods will stand out at the car meet or cruising, and show you've got some soul.

Got tired of blowing my taillight fuse due to a ghost short somewhere. I pondered the wisdom of Mitsu putting literally all lighting except headlights on one circuit. Dash, tail, driving lights and fogs (with the mod). I decided to do something about it and designed three separate circuits with relays to replace the single circuit, allowing dash, tail and driving lights to be turned on and off individually. Each circuit is protected by a 15 amp fuse and all are mounted on a 10x12 piece of Lexan with distribution block and power LED. All three switches are aluminum push button, LED illuminated. While I was at it I built a custom center console out of an aluminum street sign and mounted the switches in it. Pics/writeup soon.