Starfighterpilot

FYI - I had two oil pressure sensors fail on me. When they failed they both read out of sight High no matter the engine temp or RPM. So I don't think it's a problem with the pressure sensor. Ya might want to pull the oil pump out and apart and replace the it's internal oil pressure relief valve Plunger and spring especially the spring. They wear out and loose tension. Also check the oil pump's internal clearances and for evidence of scaring or spalling per the FSM. For What It's Worth KEN

How much for the TB including the TPS, MPS/ISC shipped to 30518. Do they work? I don't especially need the OEM fuel injectors. I've already got 2 clean & working sets of 'em. Thanks Ken

What are the pros & cons of doing the upgrade from Windows 7 or 8 to Windows 10? We have a PC that used to run Windows 8 which ran perfectly fine and mistakenly upgraded to Windows 10. Now we have all kinds of problems. Ken

For manual trannys only - I give credence to what you are saying above if you completely, or partially, take you foot off of the accelerator pedal when tapping the clutch and shifting to the next higher gear. However, I never took my foot off of the "floored" position on the accelerater pedal and "dumped" the clutch in 88 - 92 when she was a baby. WHY? Cuz of what you are talking about and I didn't want any potential turbo lag getting it back up to RPM (boost). Ya just got to know how to shift W/O loosing the engine RPM, HP & torque that you have already generated in the gear that you have shifted from. BTW - I didn't have the Old Broad's factory OEM 12A turbo rebuilt because of a weeping oil seal until, according to my maintance records, 176,566 miles. That was when I would ocassionally turn up the boost to 12 PSIG when my ex-wife and I would go out on the streets "stalking." I think the oil seal was just plain worn out cuz of the mileage on it. I appreciate your input and everyone else that's responded tho. For What It's Worth. KEN

Let me say this, In my drag racing days when the Old Broad was a baby circa 88 - 92 when I got involved in "competive exhibitions of speed" (cop term for street racing back then); or when drag racing my Charger on the street,1960's to late '80's, I never let off of the throttle while "tapping" the clutch during shifting between gears. Never broke anything doing that except for going through a number of clutches. For What It's Worth KEN

I'd suggest stopping off in Huntsville AL to see the NASA Space Museum. It is absolutely awesome. I also second seeing the USS Alabama in Mobile AL. There is also an incredible display of Cold War jets including a Blackbird SR-71. Not to mention a WWII submarine which you can go through. Plan on spending at least a day at each of the 2 places. For What It's Worth. KEN

Like the Post title says, what good is a blow off valve - unless you are running a non OEM Starquest with an over sized turbo on highly modified G54B T engine to support it, what good are they? It has always seemed to me that when running a factory stock 12A or 14B turbo & FI setup they are more trouble than they are worth. BTW - I like the turbo turkey gobble and it has not degraded any of the 3 turbos that I've had on the Old Broad. They failed cuz of worn out oil seals. Feel free to chime in. For What It's Worth. KEN

OK, I'm willing to pay $20 + shipping for a complete junk starquest radiator. Thanks for the offer Brad but I'd like to get a complete one first rather than pay shipping for two of 'em to get all of what I need. Ken

Looking at the engine house picture, were & how do the oil vapors coming off of the valve cover vent line get seperated and drained back to the crank case and the oil vaporless air get sucked into the turbo inlet? Nice Starquest! For What It's Worth. KEN

Just a suggestion on saving yourself some money that is probably just as good as doing a boot leak down test (what I'm assuming is the intake accordian intake boot between the intake filter cannister & the Turbo inlet). Remove the 'boot" and look at it entirely while flexing each of the ripples's peaks & valleys using a magnifying glass. See any cracks, splits etc.especially in the valleys? Then look at the inside of the hose ends to see if they are frayed, delaminated, cracked etc. None - OK. Then reinstall the intake boot and start the engine. Have someone monitoring the tac RPM while you flex the boot as you're spraying starter 'fluid" on each boot wrinkle and joint. If RPM's increase as you spray then you found your leak. If no RPM increase then remove all of the hoses going to & from the intercooler and do the same thing. Still no evidence of leakage? The remove the OVCP and check it is 'rubber" connectors the same way as above. I've found that the weak link in the Starquest's inlet tubing is the rubber hose connection between the OVCP and the TB inlet. Over the years I've found that 2 of them in the Old Broads life, developed cracks in 'em. Never could figure out why they went FUBAR in just that particular location. Then remove and visually check your intercooler for evidence of it's cooling tubing (between the fins) having hples, dings or cracks caused by road debris. For suspect areas, ya might want to check it using the starter fluid while monitoring engine Tac RPM's. also. Just some thoughts from a Dirty Old Man who's gone through what you are going through. For What It's Worth. KEN PS SAFETY ISSUE - make sure that you have a fan indirectly blowing across the engine house while your spraying the starter fluid cuz it may put you asleep - like RIGHT NOW CUZ IT'S ETHER!!

How was it's performance? Better than the OEM factory cam? Sorry to disagree with you. But it's the Starquest's rocker arm slippers on the rotating cam lobes which are causing the lobe wear problem. And both the mechanical and hydraulic cams have the rotating cam lobes rubbing on rocker arm slippers. For What It's Worth. KEN

Our Starquest Ladies are getting OLD, like me, and there are not too many high quality OEM or Performance parts for maintaining or increasing their performance available as compared to the '80's & '90's. Now consider that the latest engine oils don't have the required amount of additives in them anymore to mitigate our cam shaft lobes from wearing out - especially the off the shelf API SM grades of engine oil. So what is happening? Youre wearing out the cam shaft lobes - UNLESS you use the ZDDP additive every time you change engine oiI. I use the ZDDP additive. So I'm relatively sure that most of our Starquest Lady's cam shafts are gonna, if not already, NOT be everything that they were brandy new cuz you're getting very gradual decreased performance because of the gradual cam lobe wear. See this SQC link for more info. http://zddplus.com/ And do a ZDDP BS Forum Search about discussions concerning this problem. Skulking around my old computer's OLD SQC internet book marks I found that I had saved a link to Komeuppance's post about the specs for HKS' performance camshaft for our Starquests '83 to '88/89. http://home.comcast....ance/HKScam.pdf Take a look at it, and if there is a Starquester out there that knows a hell of alot more about cams, than I do, please chime in as to wether or not this cam is better than our factory OEM cams configurations. And if we did a group purchase, could these cams be "semi" - economically fabricated for our Starquest community? I know that the Old Broad, with about 485K miles on her original factory cam, is gonna need a cam in her future and I've seen some posts on SQC about Starquesters wanting a replacement cam in the Parts Wanted Forum. So Wha Cha Think? For What It's Worth. KEN

Ya should Strongly consider also replacing the "rubber" brake hoses to all of your brake calipers. They are as old as the calipers - if not older. For What It's Worth. KEN

Nope! Just trying to get the spare core complete so if I ever need it - it's just a bolt in operation. KEN

They are available at Rock Auto. BTW it's a switch not a sensor. For What It's Worth KEN

Where does this thrust bearing go? That info will help people to see if they've got one or not? For What It's Worth KEN

I've got a cherry Starquest radiator core assembly w/o the upper & lower pans & mounting brackets. Anybody got a junk Starquest radiator with all of the mounting brackets (fan shrouds & rad support wall) and upper & lower pans in decent shape. I don't care about the condition of the core. Willing to pay cost of shipping only. If so, give me a PM. Thanks KEN

Interested. PM me pictures of the back side of them so I can see how much rust is on the metal housings facing the engine house. Thanks KEN

How many miles on engine & head? How much for the complete head? Is the front crankshaft pulley assembly good (Rubber insert between pulley assemblies still tight)? What does the cam look like as far as lobe & bearing journal wear and spalling? For what It's Worth KEN

I have been at Shelby's home twice before he got really sick. He had 4 Starquests on his property at various stages of being rebuilt and 2 wrecked ones being salvaged. Watch what you say about him if you have never personally met him or visited his home. Ken

You probably don't know the answer to this question, seeing as though you just bought your Lady. A creeping up of coolant temp COULD be cause you are running old anti-freeze coolant or you have too great of a percentage of anti freeze to the DISTILLED water coolant solution. Here's how you get the proper ratio of DISTILLED water to anti-freese in the coolant system: " Completely drain the coolant system, including the engine block. I believe the agreed on correct ratio is 33% anti freeze to 67% DISTILLED water. Water has a much greater affinity to absorb/dissipate heat faster than Anti-Freeze. Better yet, take your LADY to a Jiffy Lube or similar shop that has a Engine Coolant flush Service System. It may be expensive (about $75.00) but I believe it's worth every penny. And specify that you want the above ratio of anti-freeze to DISTILLED WATER ratio to be replacing the unknown coolant that is being removed. In fact, I bring my own Distilled Water with me and make sure that they use it during the flush. The Coolant System's capacity is 9.22 quarts. If you are using straight anti-freeze, use 3 quarts of Anti-freeze to 6 + quarts of DISTILLED WATER. If you are using a solution of 50% antifreeze and 50% water out of the antifreeze jug, add 1.5 quarts of DISTILLED WATER and then add approximately 7.5 quarts of the 50/50% anti-freeze solution. A couple of Starquesters in the past,have stated that they could not understand why their Starquest started gradually running hotter after a year or so after topping off the coolant expansion tank with straight anti-freeze out of the jug. They dumped that anti-freeze solution and put in the above 33-67% solution and the coolant temperature went down to where it should be. This is because water has a much higher capacity to absorb heat and dissipate it than anti-freeze. You MUST use distilled water to keep from introducing minerals, which are dissolved in tap water, into the cooling system. These minerals tend to plate the internal heat transfer surfaces of the radiator, which after time reduces its heat transfer capability. This is the main reason that so many radiators have to be rodded out or replaced after a couple of years of use. Plus add just a couple of tablespoons of liquid dish soap into the radiator. This soap makes the coolant solution wetter which allows it to absorb and dissipate the heat of combustion better. The above is an excerpt from this post, which every new owner of a Starquest should read. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=66449 Change your coolant per the above and then let us know at what temp shes running. For What It's Worth. KEN

You said above that you replaced the fusible links. But did you also REMOVE and clean the internal male metal terminal contacts inside of fusible link box 2? It could also be that your Lady's ignition switch has given up the ghost and gone to Starquest heaven. You can get a Standard Motor Products ignition switch from Rock Auto. I've been using one of these for about 6 years with no problems. For What It's Worth KEN

I suggest that you look at this link from the SOS Manuals, http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1067 Also look at FSM, Cooling System, page 7 - 8 for the factory OEM wiring schematic of the cooling system electrical circuit to help you figure where you're at and how you are going to rectify the situation that you have. For What It's Worth. KEN

1. Radiator Primary Fan motor & Fan blade assembly 2. Radiator A/Trans fan blade, motor & shroud assembly. Thanks. Ken

Are these the ones that were for sale a week or so ago on Ebay? If so what was the bid amount that you sold them for? Thanks Ken