Front Camber Plates GB ( The ORIGINALS with the most Adjustment range )

[Oscar_the_Grouch]

Hello all

 

5 interested people tells me there's some interest.

So I'll make it official GB now.

 

 

These are the ORIGINAL Front CP with the added adjustment range, all STEEL base construction and proprietary "Bearing saver" insert that where introduced to the StarQuest market back in January of 2006 and are still the best around in my opinion of corse.

 

9 out of 10 of these features ARE NOT AVAILABLE from the competition

1- More usable range of Adjustment both in Neg and Pos camber.

2- A stronger Stainless Steel base Slider Plate vs Aluminum.

3- Easily replaceable Studs and hardware ( In the even you strip or brake one ).

4- Replacement parts ( If you need them ) are easily available within days NOT months.

5- Patented wedge shaped and off Centered bearing Block design to increase adjustability range.

6- Thicker/stronger bearing block.

7- Circlip locking system for the bearing, so you know it wont "pop" out if you overextend the suspension

8- Ability to run OEM or Adjustable aftermarket Shocks/Springs/Coil Overs with NO modifications.

9- "Bearing Saver" System. This will prolong the life of the main Spherical Bearing and make steering easier due to less resistance between upper spring seat and the bottom of the Camber plate.

10- MADE IN THE USA

 

YES, you can use these with OEM style springs either OEM or Lowering OEM style AND with ANY Coil Over system you may have.

 

YES, you will be able to use these with either the OEM shocks or with the upgraded and Adjustable MR2 Inserts. PLEASE Specify which ones you will be using at time of ordering.

 

YES, If you use these with OEM style springs the car WILL be raised aprox 12mm/ 1/2" from were you have it now. This is ALSO TRUE for the Cusco's, the Noltec's and the K-Mac's alike. Basically is the thicknes of the bottom of the bearing housing (1/2" or 12mm respectively)

 

YES, you can use your Strut Tower Braces with these Camber plates, ALL makes except for the Stedebanni's

 

$200 SHIPPED within the US

$230 SHIPPED International

 

 

 

TOP VIEW

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t229/Oscar-the-Grouch/FRONTCPjpg.jpg

 

 

1- Notice the LONGER adjustment window. Longer than Cusco, Noltec, K-Macs and Mookeeh. NOTE that in order to take FULL advantage of the FULL range of adjustment you will need to be using Coil Overs AND may need to trim some of the upper strut tower to allow for full motion. Its estimated that these will allow you to lower your car 2" or even 3" (If you can) and still adjust to give you a PERFECTLY 0Deg's of Camber and a perfectly aligned suspenssion. Same goes for Negative Camber. Its estimated at +4 Deg. at OEM heigth and +3 Deg at 1" lower than OEM

 

2- Notice the guide marks on the face are MUCH MORE smaller and more of them for more prescise adjustment, also see the mating mark on the bearing housing. This is ALSO more and better than all brands mentioned above.

 

3- Each plate is marked "L" or "R" for error free install. (Yes I know its not needed , a useless feature and pretty much self explanatory but believe it or not I have seen Camber plates installed upside down)

 

4- The main plate is 1/4" STAINLESS STEEL not Aluminum for better strength and worry free "RACING" Silver Cad Plated for long life and cool looks.

 

 

 

BOTTOM VIEW

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t229/Oscar-the-Grouch/2007168115_6e1a736492_z_zps131c3794.jpg

 

 

1- Notice the Circlip keeping the bearing secured inside the bearing housing, this feature is shared BY ALL other Camber Plates manufactures EXCEPT for the Mookeeh's. Without a retainer clip here its likelly for the bearing to pull through from the weight of the suspenssion when the car is jacked up. Unless the gearing is installed from the TOP, but this will have the reverse effect as when you hit a bump you may get real nice nipples on your hood from the strut rod pushing through.

 

2- Notice the added holes for adjustment on the bearing plate, this is comon on the Cusco's bu not on the Mookeeh's or the Noltec's

 

3- The bearing housing is CNC machined from a solid block of alluminum and Gold Cad Plated.

 

4- Note the Off-centered bearing within the housing and the rounded edges on the bearing housing and diagonals on the leading edge, this is done to maximize adjustability and reach in an allready cramped area.

 

 

BEARING SAVER

Proprietary bearing saver to prevent premature wear, grinding and reduce friction

between the camber plate and the upper spring perch.

Not to mention smoother turning without the grinding

 

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_images/bearing_thrust_needle_b.gif

 

 

 

 

So.... who's in?

 

 

 

DEPOSITS / PAYMENTS

 

Will be taking names down.

Deposits of $50.00 or more will be due no later than JUNE 7th

Balance due prior to order shipping of corse

Shipping expected June 14th

AFTER JUNE 14th I can get them shipped to you within two weeks or less after full payment.

$200.00 Shipped for the set as outlined above

 

 

All payments will be either Paypal or MO (Can send in at any time)

If sending Pay-Pal please do a personal payment so I dont have to pay the fees, The money for personal payments MUST come from Acc balance or bank acc and NOT FROM a CC. If you send payment from a CC please add 3% to cover my fees please.

 

Paypal to: mitsu_nut@yahoo.com <------ Also my contact email

Checks or MO: Please contact me directly for address

 

 

INTERESTED PARTIES:

1- MotoCam360

2- boostin20lbs

3- randy

4- psu_Crash

5- importwarrior

6-

7-

8-

9-

10-

Edited May 22, 2013 by Oscar_the_Grouch

[MotoCam360]

Definitely interested!

[boostin20lbs]

im in !!!! for sure

[randy]

I'm in for a set as well anything for the rear in the near future? :D

[JohnnyWadd]

I Have those gold pillow blocks from TTT they are nice and use a readily available bearing.

[MotoCam360]

These would be sweet if you make the for the rear struts...not the front. D2 already comes with a pretty nice front pillow block IMO

[Dred_85.5_TSI]

The problem with the back is there is not much room to adjust unless you cut the top of the strut tower to open it up.

[JohnnyWadd]

You could use Oscars pillow block in the rear upper mount and do something like...

http://imageshack.us/a/img66/7652/tokicoilumina002va4.th.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img66/1295/tokicoilumina003tw0.th.jpg

 

And then do this...

http://imageshack.us/a/img86/5896/rrcamberzw9.th.jpg

 

Also how hard would it be to replicate the Stedebani rears? Any machinist out there?

http://imageshack.us/a/img390/1848/fromtheoldcamera002xr6.th.jpg

 

Sorry 'bout the thread jack Oscar. I think rears might be more marketable so throwing out ideas.

Edited May 21, 2013 by JohnnyWadd

[patra_is_here]

do these let you dial in positive camber? with my car being low, I have my camber plates maxed out just to get around 1 or 2 degree.

otherwise its like /__\

[psu_Crash]

Definitely interested

[Oscar_the_Grouch]

I'm in for a set as well anything for the rear in the near future? :D

 

Name added

The rears are also already done and done again, they are simple and been replicated by others here with enough change to stay away from copywrite violations. The ones I can offer are the original first rear camber plates that "Artinist" made back in like 2004 I took over his production with his permission.

 

 

 

These would be sweet if you make the for the rear struts...not the front. D2 already comes with a pretty nice front pillow block IMO

I agree the fronts from D2 are very nice units the only difference between both is the range of adjustment. The only problem with the rears is that there's very little room to do anything without totally going at it with a grinder, blow torch and welder.

 

 

The problem with the back is there is not much room to adjust unless you cut the top of the strut tower to open it up.

Dito....

 

 

 

You could use Oscars pillow block in the rear upper mount and do something like...

http://imageshack.us/a/img66/7652/tokicoilumina002va4.th.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img66/1295/tokicoilumina003tw0.th.jpg

 

And then do this...

http://imageshack.us/a/img86/5896/rrcamberzw9.th.jpg

 

Also how hard would it be to replicate the Stedebani rears? Any machinist out there?

http://imageshack.us/a/img390/1848/fromtheoldcamera002xr6.th.jpg

 

Sorry 'bout the thread jack Oscar. I think rears might be more marketable so throwing out ideas.

No problem with the hijack... its all good feedback and info to share is not hijacking.

but like I said above not much room unless to go at it and cut all of the original top and replace it with new metal.

The Stedebani units are very nice units but the problem is that the adjustments are fixed, 3 fixed adjustments only and the worst thing is that you actually had to take the strut off the tower remove the bearing from the hole it was in and re install it in the new hole (unless you bought three bearings and installed one in each hole) to adjust the camber plate. Again nice solid product but overengeeneered and hard to adjust on the fly.

 

For that reason Im not a fan of the Stedebani units.

 

 

do these let you dial in positive camber? with my car being low, I have my camber plates maxed out just to get around 1 or 2 degree.

otherwise its like /__\

What camber plates are you using? Compare mine to the ones you have, look at the size of the opening for adjustment. Im 100% positive yours do not have this much in either direction. I estimate about 35% more adjustment in both neg and pos directions from OEM settings at oem height that any other model out there. Note the openings for adjustment are maxed out to the maximum allowed by the OEM mounting locations/Bolts.

 

These have the most range of adjustment of any others out there, that's the main patent on them. Also if you are running oem type coils you wont be able to go too far as the springs will rub on the tower walls. Coil overs on the other hand allow more movement.

Edited May 22, 2013 by Oscar_the_Grouch

[importwarrior]

im in for a set.

[JohnnyWadd]

The stedebani units allowed about 2 degrees or rear camber and what I like is they held there settings and let the upper mount pivot and where quiet. Edited May 22, 2013 by JohnnyWadd

[Oscar_the_Grouch]

The stedebani units allowed about 2 degrees or rear camber and what I like is they held there settings and let the upper mount pivot and where quiet.

 

Agreed, they keep the settings for sure. Quiet yes due to the bearing.

In the case of the rear units there's a choice to be made by the owner...

- Quiet units w/bearing with no easy means of adjustment and fixed settings.

- Standard may be noisy but offer ease of adjustment with no fixed settings

- Custom Offers both of the above features but require cutting, welding and fab work to your strut tower tops.

 

I can get these done for our cars if there's enough interest...

WELD-ON REAR Camber plates with the same bearing block as the fronts.

Guess I'll start a thread on this to see whats the interest.

 

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/oliverflower/StrutTopWeld1.jpg

Edited May 22, 2013 by Oscar_the_Grouch

[JohnnyWadd]

 

 

Agreed, they keep the settings for sure. Quiet yes due to the bearing.

In the case of the rear units there's a choice to be made by the owner...

- Quiet units w/bearing with no easy means of adjustment and fixed settings.

- Standard may be noisy but offer ease of adjustment with no fixed settings

- Custom Offers both of the above features but require cutting, welding and fab work to your strut tower tops.

 

I can get these done for our cars if there's enough interest...

WELD-ON REAR Camber plates with the same bearing block as the fronts.

Guess I'll start a thread on this to see whats the interest.

 

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/oliverflower/StrutTopWeld1.jpg

 

That pretty cool. A weld in plate to use the gold pillow block?

[Oscar_the_Grouch]

yeup....

[MotoCam360]

Yes... weld in rear plate is sweet....do it!

[mistapickles]

Agreed, they keep the settings for sure. Quiet yes due to the bearing.

In the case of the rear units there's a choice to be made by the owner...

- Quiet units w/bearing with no easy means of adjustment and fixed settings.

- Standard may be noisy but offer ease of adjustment with no fixed settings

- Custom Offers both of the above features but require cutting, welding and fab work to your strut tower tops.

 

I can get these done for our cars if there's enough interest...

WELD-ON REAR Camber plates with the same bearing block as the fronts.

Guess I'll start a thread on this to see whats the interest.

 

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/oliverflower/StrutTopWeld1.jpg

Hooooly shiyat.... That's what I need... can you make one for the front too?

[Oscar_the_Grouch]

For the front is not needed but if you really want to I can get the plates for you to weld in no problem. But you wont gain any more adjustment and you will need to make sure you place the plate in the OEM location or your caster will be REALLY OFF.

[Caliber308]

How many more degrees of positive camber can I expect from these Camber plates versus D2s at maxed out adjustment on a lowered Starquest (Fender wells appox. 24 1/4 inches from the ground and the D2 top bearing housing about 1/4 inch from the stock camber plate housing body lip)?

 

Thanks,

Bill

Edited May 28, 2013 by Caliber308

[Oscar_the_Grouch]

How many more degrees of positive camber can I expect from these Camber plates versus D2s at maxed out adjustment on a lowered Starquest (Fender wells appox. 24 1/4 inches from the ground and the D2 top bearing housing about 1/4 inch from the stock camber plate housing body lip)?

 

Thanks,

Bill

 

Hello

 

How much more as far as exact number of degrees I DO NOT KNOW sorry. But I can sure tell you that these offer the MOST adjustment of any other out there and its going to stay that way because of the patent.

 

Bellow you have the most common Camber plates on the market, look at the difference in bearing BLOCK size and the size of the adjustment opening where the bearing block moves within. Mine go from edge to edge of the OEM Strut tower opening which is the most you'll be able to move without cutting into the OEM metal.

 

The BLACK line represents and shows the side of the camber plate that faces away from the engine or the side that rides along the fender. This line in drawn to show the orientation and location of the adjustment opening of the camber plates of all manufacturers and to show how far each one allows the bearing block to move in both directions. Mine offers the most range of adjustment as shown it goes from edge to edge of OEM tower opening (Like the first Gen Mookee's that violated the patent). Also note the angle of the adjustment cutout on all of the plates shown and note that mine has a slightly more of an aggressive angle to compensate for caster. The only one that comes close are the Cuscos but still not as much as mine. This added angle helps keep neutral caster when adjusting camber. The other do not so you'll end up with real bad camber.

 

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t229/Oscar-the-Grouch/FRONTCPjpg-1_zps6aadb508.jpeg

 

First Gen Mookee's Notice the opening goes all the way to both edges of the OEM opening.

These violated the patent so they had to redesign theirs and the current model they sell is the updated version which does not offer the full range of adjustment.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t229/Oscar-the-Grouch/HPIM6053-1-1_zps2d4c826d.jpg

 

Cusco's

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t229/Oscar-the-Grouch/camberplates1a-1_zps4699994e.jpg

 

D2's These offer the least amount of adjustment or correction for those seeking to get their tire's life back

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t229/Oscar-the-Grouch/WP_000111-1_zps72aa0d7f.jpg

[RF600]

If you do a rear weld in piece will it be angled? Since the strut doesn't go out straight toward the wheel. Kind of goes toward the rear of the wheel. If that made sense.

[Oscar_the_Grouch]

If you do a rear weld in piece will it be angled? Since the strut doesn't go out straight toward the wheel. Kind of goes toward the rear of the wheel. If that made sense.

 

No it won't.

I mention, describe and refer to angle as in the orientation of rotation of the cutout not the tilt angle of the plate itself.

[randy]

I'm on board OSCAR

[Oscar_the_Grouch]

Okay folks...

Little behind but ready to start shipping...

Payments due for whomever is ready