03CL55AMG Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 I currently have 200 miles on a new motor and not boosting at all , I was planning on putting around 1000 miles till I boosted it at all maybe 10 to 12 lbs, then put about another 1000 miles on her then turn up the boost...what is safe. Forged motor, wiseco 8 to 1s, 20g and all the supporting mods...just want to make sure it is broken in right, thanks for you comments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 I currently have 200 miles on a new motor and not boosting at all , I was planning on putting around 1000 miles till I boosted it at all maybe 10 to 12 lbs, then put about another 1000 miles on her then turn up the boost...what is safe. Forged motor, wiseco 8 to 1s, 20g and all the supporting mods...just want to make sure it is broken in right, thanks for you comments. I'm sure you know by now that you can't stay out of some kind of boost. You should also be more confident that things are working properly,, if not then you better address any issues, If things are fine then I would think you can start driving normal, No wide open throttle to 7k or drag racing but normal driving should be ok. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbotsi Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 Break it in the way you plan to drive it, after the first oil change. When I rebuilt mine I left it at stock boost levels from the git go, it's a fun car to me -- not a drag/ track car. I've seen lots of guys who plan to drag/ track their car just fire it up, change the oil and then rip it to redline. Some will tell you to take it easy rev to 4-5k and let off the gas and let the motor slow you down to break in the rings, that's kinda what I did -- take it as you will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 No leaks? No tune issues? Good pressures? Retorque? Let it rip....All the way to redline. If its gonna break now, itll still break in 500mi. Work them rings! thats what they are for. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 No leaks? No tune issues? Good pressures? Retorque? Let it rip....All the way to redline. If its gonna break now, itll still break in 500mi.Work them rings! thats what they are for.No leaks? No tune issues? Good pressures? Retorque? Let it rip....All the way to redline. If its gonna break now, itll still break in 500mi.Work them rings! thats what they are for. I agree. I will go low boost for a few heat cycles just to check that things are ok and fix any leaks, then retorque the head. After that boost up, seat them rings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy larry Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 Nows Good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03CL55AMG Posted March 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 (edited) I was kinda hoping that's what most of you would say...I have heat cycled the rings several times, so when is the proper time to re torque the head. do i need to run some boost first, normal driving...like dad said don't get crazy but boost it up a bit. I did notice today that the lifters seem to be a bit noiser that when I first fired it up...I did change the oil after 140 miles...thursday, but after a few minutes the lifters seem to be OK, oil pressure seem to be about where it was before the rebuild...at idel below the halfway mark...over 2500 rpms a little above the halfway mark...sh_t maybe I am paranoid, thanks for the advice . Edited March 24, 2013 by 03CL55AMG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy larry Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 umm I would of re torqued the head before I drove it. after 1 heat cycle... I would also run 20/50 castrol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Like Crazy Larry said. If you haven't retorqued yet, DO IT NOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Rings are seated within 20 minutes/20 miles or less. They are not going to break with normal use, and high cylinder pressure helps to force them against the walls. You should rebuild the engine and then take it out immediately after timing it and do a huge burnout, then try to reach top speed in the shortest distance possible. Only slightly joking. High load breaks in motors the best. Things that actually need breaking in for hundreds of miles: Clutches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Count me in the high vacuum/high load sooner than later camp, sound like you might have already lost your window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03CL55AMG Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 Thanks everybody.. I hope I didn't miss my window....I forgot to mention that I put a new clutch in with the rebuild so now that has 200+ miles on it I feel a bit better about boosting it up. so I took you veterans advice and made 3 pulls @ 12 lbs second and third gear to 6 grand...then 3 pulls @17 lbs to 6 grand second and third gear...it felt good but I blew my gasket for the down pipe on the last run, so I will get that fixed and drive it fairly hard again I think that 17lbs is OK for now, but soon I will hook up the meth injection and turn it up to 25 to 28 lbs and let her eat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 you get great advice from a man that has built 1000's of engines and then ignore it because it wasn't what you want'd to hear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 Hey, just double check the head studs/bolts. Make sure they are torqued to spec. Then you should be good. I've built a few engines, not 1000s, but the g54b I built made 547 wheel horsepower. And it's still fine. I broke it in as hard as I possibly could. I would recommend easing into that high boost, but boost and vac (decelerating in gear at high rpm) break-in is the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
traps Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 Hydralic lifters will be noisy at start up...gotta get pumped and ready to go. Good luck sir sounds like if it was gunna s%^t on ya it woulda done it by now. Too late for shoulda coulda lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 you get great advice from a man that has built 1000's of engines and then ignore it because it wasn't what you want'd to hear NO i wasn't meaning ME i was refering to Dad's advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Certainly Not 1000's Shelby, Thank you for the compliment! Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conquest9113 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 lol i know one things for sure if i have a question. Shelby and dads the men to talk to .and the 20g is a 20g i wouldn't run it over 19 psi. u are just asking to rebuild a none cheap turbo every 10k miles give or take.if u want more then 20 psi a t3/t4 is for u .23 to 28 psi will just be killing that turbo with every boost run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Why would high boost wreck a turbo? If it's a quality unit, there shouldn't be a problem. Turbos don't care, they just do things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conquest9113 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 . that's right they don't know any better that's why they will run 30 psi if u let them.. that's why there is W/G to stop the boost .the stock 12a iam sure u have done it we all have it will run 20 psi but not for long.they all have a limit .running above the limit will kill a turbo, seals rings shaft,or even worst blow up .20g's no matter how good a brand or who built it. it's made to run 20 psi or lower.boosting over the turbos limit. each time u do it is killing the turbos insides. same as 12a,16g,17c,19c,20g all made to run no more then the wheel size for say and run safe doing so.that's why most move to the t3/t4 or larger to have that choice in the boost settings for above 20 psi. i know a few psi don't sound like much but it is and does hell to a turbos guts .Like This My new whip: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conquest9113 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 (edited) think of it this way the 12a works its tail off to run 14 psi turn up the boost on it more now its working over time to keep up and killing itself to do so .under stand or a better way to get a better understanding of it is the num like 12a is the wheel size or boosting safe limit. and the alphabet letters A TO G and a few others .that is mainly the spool time for say the lower the alph letter the faster the spool time. the higher the letter the slower boost spooling but a much higher flow at full boost. Edited March 31, 2013 by conquest9113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03CL55AMG Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 I thought that a 20G would boost to well over 20lbs...I understood that the turbo efficiency range for a 20G was from about 17 lbs to 27lbs, that is where the turbo was most efficient...is that incorrect ?, I understand that the efficiency range will change with different size turbos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conquest9113 Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 i have never ran more then 20 psi on the 20g a few times it has due to vac line coming off.now the super 20g is good for more psi.i be leave but i think it has a much larger wheels and is ball bearing not 100% on that.but hell at 17 psi u are pulled to the seat at that psi.it's just me i dont like pushing turbos be on there limit due to ther price lol.a turbo spin after all and trying to get a few more psi from the turbo just makes it have to spin or raise the rpms to do so just for more boost .with the 20g running at 17 to 20 psi the turbo is running at 90% out of 100% pulling that. so pushing it passed 100% is just plain hard on any turbo.u wouldn't try to run at 8k rpm in your car right it will tear up he bottom end well the same thing turbo has a max safe rpm limit before it starts to break it self down .so keeping the boost under or near the safe limit just keeps the stress away later.ball bearing turbos are more for giving to the abuse but still not good for them . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conquest9113 Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 over boosting a turbo justs mean less boosting life out of it.so if a 20g is running at or close to max safe limit say 90% at 17 psi thats close to 10k rpm right there safe.but take a 12a it will have to spin 3x that to build 20 psi and it will just be dieing with every boost a lil at a time .and boom.while motor may only be running at 5k that turbo is going buck wild spinning .or over boosting means stepping out side the safe rpm limit .it will for be fine for a bit. but every time u do u are just playing with a bomb. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 over boosting a turbo justs mean less boosting life out of it.so if a 20g is running at or close to max safe limit say 90% at 17 psi thats close to 10k rpm right there safe.but take a 12a it will have to spin 3x that to build 20 psi and it will just be dieing with every boost a lil at a time .and boom.while motor may only be running at 5k that turbo is going buck wild spinning .or over boosting means stepping out side the safe rpm limit .it will for be fine for a bit. but every time u do u are just playing with a bomb.20g turbo is spinning WAAAAAY more than 10k rpm at 20 psi. also i ran mine at 26psi no issues, ebay and cleared 8k miles no issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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