conquest9113

lol iam missing 3 0 i thought they where being added each time sorry but iam in the ball park see 100000k keys are sticking i was not meaning 10k

lol yes at 20 psi it is spinning alot faster .i said at 17 psi it around 10k .u will be shocked to see how much the rpms .go up in just in a few more psi. the one u are running i bet is a ball bearing type to right .and it has a larger hot side and wheels then the mitsu 20g.and are good to run around 25 psi.i have ran them all 12a to 20g even a ebay t3 the 19c is the best by far able to run 20 psi and is very very fast spooling.

JohnnyWadd Advanced Member http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/profile/photo-thumb-12403.gif?_r=1363089620 Members http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.pnghttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.pnghttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.pnghttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.png 5,882 posts Gender:Male Location:Oregon Interests:trying to find homes for all my starion parts and sell my car. recovering from shoulder surgery. Model:Conquest Posted Today, 06:41 PM Site is spooling up better. Feels like a good tune up and a ported turbine housing. Like This Thanks Everyone.LOL LOL

right nice, a set of 4 and there 8's not 7's and 8's for 300 i would jump on them if there in good shape thats a steal

over boosting a turbo justs mean less boosting life out of it.so if a 20g is running at or close to max safe limit say 90% at 17 psi thats close to 10k rpm right there safe.but take a 12a it will have to spin 3x that to build 20 psi and it will just be dieing with every boost a lil at a time .and boom.while motor may only be running at 5k that turbo is going buck wild spinning .or over boosting means stepping out side the safe rpm limit .it will for be fine for a bit. but every time u do u are just playing with a bomb.

<p> http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/profile/photo-924.jpg?_r=0 Members http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.pnghttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.pnghttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.pnghttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.png 7,068 posts Gender:Male Location:Niles,Ohio Interests:One stock and one not! 87 White Quest 87 Shetland Model:Conquest Posted Today, 03:55 PM Build it so there are no leaks !! lol @dad that works for sure lol

i have never ran more then 20 psi on the 20g a few times it has due to vac line coming off.now the super 20g is good for more psi.i be leave but i think it has a much larger wheels and is ball bearing not 100% on that.but hell at 17 psi u are pulled to the seat at that psi.it's just me i dont like pushing turbos be on there limit due to ther price lol.a turbo spin after all and trying to get a few more psi from the turbo just makes it have to spin or raise the rpms to do so just for more boost .with the 20g running at 17 to 20 psi the turbo is running at 90% out of 100% pulling that. so pushing it passed 100% is just plain hard on any turbo.u wouldn't try to run at 8k rpm in your car right it will tear up he bottom end well the same thing turbo has a max safe rpm limit before it starts to break it self down .so keeping the boost under or near the safe limit just keeps the stress away later.ball bearing turbos are more for giving to the abuse but still not good for them .

think of it this way the 12a works its tail off to run 14 psi turn up the boost on it more now its working over time to keep up and killing itself to do so .under stand or a better way to get a better understanding of it is the num like 12a is the wheel size or boosting safe limit. and the alphabet letters A TO G and a few others .that is mainly the spool time for say the lower the alph letter the faster the spool time. the higher the letter the slower boost spooling but a much higher flow at full boost.

. that's right they don't know any better that's why they will run 30 psi if u let them.. that's why there is W/G to stop the boost .the stock 12a iam sure u have done it we all have it will run 20 psi but not for long.they all have a limit .running above the limit will kill a turbo, seals rings shaft,or even worst blow up .20g's no matter how good a brand or who built it. it's made to run 20 psi or lower.boosting over the turbos limit. each time u do it is killing the turbos insides. same as 12a,16g,17c,19c,20g all made to run no more then the wheel size for say and run safe doing so.that's why most move to the t3/t4 or larger to have that choice in the boost settings for above 20 psi. i know a few psi don't sound like much but it is and does hell to a turbos guts . Like This My new whip:

hey guys iam just getting around to put this rad in after replacing my head gasket i don't really want to put the rad fans right back up on the fins like i was doing with the stock one i'am thinking about running with the clutch fan again with just the one pusher fan on the front side.so i can keep this thing in good shape.any one know where to find clutch and fan blade i have a old fan blade but it's in bad shape .or the part nums so i can track them down thank u.

why does every one like the black block look i think it's to dark for seeing leaks and what not .

o yeah so much faster when loading pages .

lol i know one things for sure if i have a question. Shelby and dads the men to talk to .and the 20g is a 20g i wouldn't run it over 19 psi. u are just asking to rebuild a none cheap turbo every 10k miles give or take.if u want more then 20 psi a t3/t4 is for u .23 to 28 psi will just be killing that turbo with every boost run.

it's east to do just remove the abs unit and reroute the line back to the proportioning valve.make sure u put a clamp on the brake booster to keep air from entering the brake lines mine still worked when i pulled mine. but like texas said they are a eye sore or dont work any more .

just use a rope and run it through the bolt holes on the trani and tie it up to some thing on the fire wall.so it's off the ground so u can move it where u want it .

o very kool thank u every one for all the info that was just what i was looking for . and cloud that video was great thank u.first time i have seen that one

iam running a mpi ,20g set up i need a good gasket i run 17 psi every chance i get. every day .spent $2300 give or take to get this motor ready for the extra boost and mpi last year.for 20 bucks i think i will wait intill next weeks pay to get the felpro .i think my motor would just blow that gasket out asap.beside iam still in trob with the old lady for the extra money saved and spent for the paint job.after this iam not aloud to spend a dime on my car .or i may not wake up lol .we need to pay hers off first.she hate my car like most of are girls do..PLUS IAM VERY GOOD AT MOTOR WORK BUT IAM STILL VERY MUCH A NOOB.THIS CAR HAS BEEN WITH ME FOR YEARS 11 YEARS TO COUNT.SINCE 17 NOW IAM 28. I HAVE SPENT MEANY MEANY HRS READING AND READING ABOUT THE ENDS AND OUT OF THIS CAR DOWN TO BOLT SIZE . PLUS TRIAL AND ERROR BEEN THROUGH EVRY PAGE OF THE CAR MANUAL MEANY TIMES SOAKING IT UP WITH EVERY PASS AND STILL LEARN SOME THING NEW EVERY TIME I PICK IT UP.

lol that's one thing u will have to go through one part at a time once i started messing with the drive train parts what a pain . trani,torqe tube,drive shaft,any of those moving parts i found that i had to end up changing them all due to the bad shape every thing was in. new parts with old dont work well .first lift the car check the hole drive train.all links,joints,bolts,nuts,that's a good start .check for loose bolts missing bolts, or damaged joints./parts.check all tran mounts even motor mounts to heck u can see them to from under the car to. aslo while car is at idle put in N and push in the clutch see if it stops. is the vibration in the motor. u say that it's not related to load or gear when is the last time or have u looked under the car or have u looked yet. check the trans fluid the trani will start acting like the motor with low fluid lev it will get trimbley / or pick up a vibration to

lol ok gotta. yes i was trying to track down a vac leak .and it is fixed due to a Lcheap B/C a bleed type witch in turned i found it to be leaking at idle and causing the motor to have a lil miss/trimble at start up.and or running

i could see that helping for boost hick up if the bov was on the cold side of the I/C pipes . wouldn't that cause the the fuel to run super rich while shifting

well when i pulled the head to have the cam put in . i had the head re surfaced and he did all the cam and valve work due to my lac of no how.the head did have a slight bend in it .but it's on spec now but the block was never done but with the ding i put in the gasket it leaked at high rpms.soo i will just get the felpro and that will solve my prob it will seal better .the block is ok to i checked today all in specs to the hole surface. a lil off but ok. fel pro is the way to go leason learned. .the ding in the gasket is pretty deep it acted just like a lil water channal once motor was warmed up it flowed like water right on out.

it was just a question.more for a troble check list .but yes it did help and answer my questions about the W/G and B/C

hey guys i'am 28 i was born in 84 so i was very young when the conquest was released in the us my question is why didnt they take off and make more sales or where more popular then there where was it the reg price tag 20k i be leave .with every thing the car came with stock u would think it would be a fav or first pick vers mustang or camaro .

well dang dont really have the money to spend on a fel pro any one ever use the victor reniz head gaskets from auto zone with any good luck with them.if not i will go with the fel pro to save my self the heart ache

the 3 in gm air mass is a air mass sensor after all. just like the mistu 1 g or the stock one there all the same just diff flow and how they hook up (wire connector) .all the translator does is change the signal back to dsm or to match the wiring connector for the starquest .but they all have to be in the same place to work so all u have to do is put the maf-T in the intake for the turbo set it right on top of the filter then hook the pipe back up and to turbo and u will be good to go and the wide band the o2 reallys needs to be down the down pipe a bit a know it sucks to have to move it but it wont work right it will give a false reading that way.. if u have ever hook up a rpm tac in the car u have to match the wires for a 4,6 or 8 cyl same thing just changes the signal to match.