Bag-O-Chips Posted October 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 What did you do for your "box of bends" ......I was thinking of playing with one for my 1jz.....I only have a mig welder though. Mig'ing a header together is certainly doable. Once all the runners are tacked together, take em off and do you finishing passes. Depending on experience and the type of welder, you can make it look pretty good or.... look like angry bird doo doo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 They are a good 1.5 hours away though so it's not exactly a quick trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted October 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 (edited) Alright guys, here are some updates! I ran out of Argon ARRGGGHHH!!!!! oh well, back to Airgas... But so far here's how she looks I really need to use a bigger filler rod....3/32 is too small. I gotta make another pass once I make things final. for the mean while mos of it has been tacked. It's amazing what you can do when you have only 300psi left in your cylinder and set to 25 CFH. - ps... I'm no professional at TIG gimme a mig and this will pass structural testing lol http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/IMG01122-20111021-2057.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/IMG01121-20111021-2055.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/IMG01120-20111021-2055.jpg Edited October 25, 2011 by Bag-O-Chips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 3/32 is about the biggest you want to go, you can do it with much smaller with ease. I use 3/32 on the butt welds, and 1/16" on the flanges for better heat control. You just need to wrok on your tempo with building the puddle with the tungsten, and filling it with the filler. Be sure you chamfer the cut edges 3O degrees on the cut pieces or your penetration will suck big time and require excessive heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted October 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the tip! I literally just started TIG about 4 months ago. I'm getting better at it though. The more tips I can learn the better off I'll be. If it wasn't for knowing how to Oxy-fuel weld... my tig welds would be worse looking. TIG is a whole 'nother animal. For the mean while, The Back purge setup I'm running just sucks the cylinder dry. Edited October 25, 2011 by Bag-O-Chips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 You are wasting the gas for that extra shielding don't bother with it. Don't complete a runner all the way to the flange either do them one or two at a time from the collector outward. They bend too much as you weld the tacks will come apart and it will be under lots of stress if you do but since your flange isn't one piece I think this you'll see very soon and should switch to a solid flange to keep the spacing. It will change shape when you run it, more so without a solid flange and could lead to warping o r pulling one away from the head. You'll definetly have to go back over it to add more filler for even beads then you can heat again and smooth them out. Look on the inside to see it fully penetrates. Shift to different places on the same diameter to minimize it bending or overheat and cause it to crack your weld joint. Don't go more than an inch at a time in one spot then let it cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 yah, I slot my flanges, lets it expand/contract, but I stop short of cotting trough so holds it's overall form. SS warps like a SOB when you weld it, way worse than other metals. Get the runners complete before you comit to the final flange welds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 (edited) yah, I slot my flanges, lets it expand/contract, but I stop short of cotting trough so holds it's overall form. SS warps like a SOB when you weld it, way worse than other metals. Get the runners complete before you comit to the final flange welds.Exactly, no reason to have it ready to crack or warp before you've done with it and that's why those quick welded crap metal ones all crack and fall apart. Edited October 26, 2011 by Indiana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fawkes Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 You might want to try a gas lens and pyrex cup. That will help you save argon (you can run about 18CFH instead of 25) and shield the puddle on cluster welds. And the clear cup will make seeing the puddle on on pipe a lot easier. Especially in vertical and overhead. Rule of thumb: Your fill wire should be half your metal thickness and you need to run as small of a tungsten (probably 1/16 to 3/32 on this project) as you can get away with while staying in your amperage range to avoid arc wonder. If you can try to "back purge" the inside of the piping to create the ideal welding environment (this will help prevent the inside of the weld on your pipe form becoming sugared and weak during the continual heating and cooling of the metal it CAN become brittle) Food for thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Tip for new TIG users, be sure to keep the tungston perfeclty clean of filler metal, and sharpen it often (since as a novice, it' will get damaged a lot). It allows you to use a lot less heat because the palsma bubble is always where you want it. As soon as you contaminate the tip, pull it out and give it a fresh grind. It shoud look similar to a sharpened pencil, where the ground down angle reveals a sharpened lengh tof 2x's width or more. Also grind it down it's axis, not arround it's circumfrence, it really does make a difference in the shape of the plasma bubble at the tip. the welds will look more neat, and you will have less heat travel (discoloration), that is when you know it's working correclty. I use 3/32 tungston on Sch 10, but have used 1/16 well. It is easier for me to keep a clean tip longer on the 3/32, probalby something to do with my technique. Find a method that works for you. Only time have to use the 1/16" is on thin wall, there it's simply a must. Are you using 2% toratated? It has a red band painted end on it. these tungstons have a color coding system, with different corlors being used for different aplications. Best not to mix and match, it will make a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Nothing worse than getting your tip dirty or dull Chad...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 indeed, and if it's does get contaminated, quick action is the best approach and extends the life of your tip. If you treat your tip correclty, you can get hours of use out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 Hahaha! this is comically enlightening lol thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted November 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 Alright... updates! It's almost complete and I'm debating on running my Synapse 50mm to a divorced single wastegate (space restictions) or to run 2 tial or Synapse 40mm's....( then again more space restrictions) I was planning on doing this.http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/single.jpg But here are the most recent shots. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/IMG01147-20111106-1428.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/IMG01146-20111106-1427.jpg Once the wastegate or wastegates have been figured out, off to the coaters. But for the mean while I double checked weld penetration with my borescope and everything is nice and fused with minimal sugaring. (thank god for the back purge.) More Pics will come, still have lots to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 nice! I expect a full report once installed and running/tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 Wow Chips that looks great!I too will be waiting on some hard boosted runs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagemo Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Great job! I am learning a lot from this thread, I am getting ready to start a set of headers for my project after reading this im not sure im ready...Looks like a lot of work. Keep up the good work and let us know how it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted November 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Most definately! I'm waiting for my wastgate flanges as we speak. I'm expecting a pretty decent spoolup fully utilizing the twinscroll turbine of the GT4088R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Those are some SERIOUS flanges bro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted November 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Is that a good thing or a bad thing? lol I like to overbuild things sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
25gconquest Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Nice job building it will you get it coated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 I'm still deciding on which coating to get, more than likely it will get coated with the hottest tolerance ceramic Jet-hot has. For the mean while here's another update Just trial fitting so I can measure out the space needed for the two wastegates. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/IMG01158-20111111-2145.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/IMG01159-20111111-2146.jpg kinda dark in the pics, my camera was dead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 that's awfully high, does your hood close? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Looks like about the same as the intake manifold. It'll clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 the hood closes It looks kinda high because the turbo is canted towards the side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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