19red88quest Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Im new to this scene and dont really know much about the 2.6.i really just want a reliable low 12, high 11 second car, hopefully i wont have to do a swap to get this..my car is a bone stock 5 speed so im starting from scratch.these are my thoughts on getting me there.stock bottom end, possibly a cam?arp head boltsported stock headported stock intakebigger turbobigger injectorscustom header with a 2.5in downpipe back exhaustdrag radialsdo you guys think this would get me there and be reliable?im open to suggestions. i want to plan out a good build before i start (hopefully this winter)thanks in advance for any advice i get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostdquest89 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Those are high expectations. I doubt those mods will get you there unless you do some dramatic weight reductions! Chad- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwolf Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Well doing so with throttle body injection would make it a little harder... Either way it would be best to go with a standalone ems and a non mitsu turbo would make things easier in my opinion. Stock bottom end would also be rather hard....but its been done so good luck! I know it can work...but you better plan on spending money if you plan on it being reliable enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotStock88 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 a header is not necesary, just weld on a t3 flange to the stock manifold and port manifold. i would suggest you spend the money from the header on a mpi intake instead.you are going to need a bigger fuel pump, intercooler, intercooler pipes and some way to control the afr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 No one ever leaves the block and head untouched, so no one really knows what the limit is (with a good tune and an MPI conversion). So the two most cost effective ways to raise power output are: 1. changing intake manifolds to something with one injector per cylinder (and all the accompanying parts). 2. changing to a larger turbo and raising the boost (and all the supporting mods). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 a engine swap would be far cheaper and far more reliable you would be looking at MPI swap, new bigger name brand turbo, custom trans or swap, drag tires, etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 383 stroker motor, TH350, full cage, 9 inch....and a AAA membership. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Engine swap is for those who don't have the skills to keep their 2.6 running well enough to not blow up. What you need for reliability is more than just correct parts but the ability and knowledge to do the required maintenance, build/install the engine and components correctly, and especially a proper tune. Quite a few members have done this very well, others were missing parts of the equation and blamed the car. -Robert 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 ^ This.Personally I know I could push my 84 trying to go fast, but, I'd rather have it reliable and slow while I continue to work on it. Then when I have the work done that it needs I can work on making it fast. I've had the car for well over a year and have yet to go WOT cause I know I don't have the fuel pump/injectors to do it safely. Take your time and don't blow it up trying to chase a number, whether its on the dyno or the drag strip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance_S Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 MONEY!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Yeah, also an auto trans with a high stall and trans brake. And slicks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpaidslave Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 No one has really taken the stock block to its limits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Any time you talk ETs you'll get a different answer from every one that responds. See if you can make it run stock first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotStock88 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 No one has really taken the stock block to its limits? I am still running stock block (rods, pistons, crank) with my mpi and looking to put down well over 300hp to the wheels on my next dyno session on Oct. 5.I am not sure what the highest HP/TQ has been put down with a stock block but i sure would like to know. I would assume i am in the 12's with my current set-up but dont drag my car so its hard to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TainterRacing Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 As for reliable.... (Replace all rubber parts).... With new all coolant lines and Fuel Lines as well as all Vac lines and new Inter-cooler pipes Non Jet valve head new HD Valve Springs And New all new sensors and Mass air to 1g. New power steering lines as well. Make sure to replace the rubber brake lines as well with SS. New drive belts Replace timing chain guides. Now I have done this for another member that uses his car as a Daily driver he has put 30K+ and never had a break down yet. Other then Clutch and Brakes. I know many will say that what I saw was way to much and not worth it. as it was in the range of 2-2.5K to do it all. But remember the car is about 25 years+ old. And likely more then a 100K on it. Like others have said would be cheaper to put a new motor swap in it I would say ya them might be right. But a reliable 2.6 can be done. more or less you need to get it back to like it was when it was new and it should run great. I have left out a few things as I am sure there is at lest 10 things I did I left out. But you get the Idea 2-2.5k in parts. Now after you do all that as you want to go 12's I would just do a MPI at the same time Put on a self tune ecu and a t3t4 NOT a cheaper e-bay turbo. and a Full 3in ex I ran a solid 12's car(12.4) personally putting well over 40k on it. Now I had a good share of problems all to do with the head gasket blowing due to to much boost. Or having an old part fail. With a good ECU you can add fail safes to the motor so that will not be problem. I would say you could do it for about 5-6.5k in all to had a soil 12's and reliable that's assuming your short blocks in good shape. This is why so many have post saying this and that broke.... You really need to spend a good 2+k in just making it reliable. and then an other 4+k in mods for power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C300 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 in the '80s I cracked jet valve heads when i ran with higher than 12lbs boost for for any extended period. I had a friend tig weld in an aluminum plug. problem fixxed. added turbos, ect. then problems moved to correct fuel/air mixture. MPI and supporting hardware is the way to go. still have the stock engine from my '87 ESI-R. still stock and runs great with 100k. has been in 3 cars. point is, stock-reliable, without a good knowledge and correct parts, bad times. been gathering the "correct parts" for a performance build for 1 1/2 years now, and listening to the guys here. good luck, C300 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopDawg_43 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 (edited) Good luck getting those numbers with stock pistons. You'll be limited on how big of a turbo you can get, with stock TBI. Edited September 29, 2011 by TopDawg_43 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Just because people don't get their cars tuned right doesn't mean it can't be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuestFan Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Im in NotStock88's boat. Stock motor. Stock head. Best thing I have bought for my motor is a MPI intake and a T3/T4 hybrid turbo. I expect to put down mid 300's hp when its all said and done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 a header is not necesary, just weld on a t3 flange to the stock manifold and port manifold. i would suggest you spend the money from the header on a mpi intake instead.you are going to need a bigger fuel pump, intercooler, intercooler pipes and some way to control the afr Agree Engine swap is for those who don't have the skills to keep their 2.6 running well enough to not blow up. What you need for reliability is more than just correct parts but the ability and knowledge to do the required maintenance, build/install the engine and components correctly, and especially a proper tune. Quite a few members have done this very well, others were missing parts of the equation and blamed the car. -Robert X2! I am still running stock block (rods, pistons, crank) with my mpi and looking to put down well over 300hp to the wheels on my next dyno session on Oct. 5.I am not sure what the highest HP/TQ has been put down with a stock block but i sure would like to know. I would assume i am in the 12's with my current set-up but dont drag my car so its hard to say. Running quick times requires much more than just HP. Im in NotStock88's boat. Stock motor. Stock head. Best thing I have bought for my motor is a MPI intake and a T3/T4 hybrid turbo. I expect to put down mid 300's hp when its all said and done. No, your block is rebuilt with who knows what pistons. Erics is completely untouched. Personally if I were to do an 11sec car on the cheap. Id go18G or 20G TD06MAFTWidebandACT 6puckDrag RadialsWet 75 shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Or just clutch, nitrous and slicks from the get go and leave everything else stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotStock88 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Im in NotStock88's boat. Stock motor. Stock head. Best thing I have bought for my motor is a MPI intake and a T3/T4 hybrid turbo. I expect to put down mid 300's hp when its all said and done.sorry, i should have clarified that my head is a njv head that is built - just my bottom end is stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Personally if I were to do an 11sec car on the cheap. Id go18G or 20G TD06MAFTWidebandACT 6puckDrag RadialsWet 75 shot Hit the nail on the head! Maybe gut the car and hardpipes. You don't need mpi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 (edited) A good transmission too lol Edited September 29, 2011 by Scotty Dont Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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