DSMvirus1 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 total build price as of TODAY :megasquirt unassembled : 1508x460cc injectors : 20$throttlebody,inj clips ect ( from earlier post ) : 30$Tools : 50$manifold : 25$aluminum : 20$fuel rail : 48$misc stuff : 20-30$ total so far is sitting at about 370-375$~! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted October 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 bad news but NOT the end of this! my fuel rail won't stop leaking...soo I'm junking this entire manifold / fuel rail attempt. because well it looks like s*** and now i'm trying something new. I'm going to build an entire new manifold, not using any of the stock manifold, proper placement of the injectors ect... will take some time to complete but I found some great material and guide on this, and will be welding it all at the shop free. The only issue I have is figuring out how to build the damn thermo housing, but I will figure it out. question though, does it matter if the thermostat is like this : I or like this : ---- ? like can it be sideways and be fine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 doesnt matter, wont change anything, just try to keep the thermostat as the highest location of the motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 chop it off a stock manifold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 can't use it, the way it is on the stocker, it get's in the way of the inlet port for cyl 1 and I dont want it to be curved i want a straight runner for all cylinders on the manifold. i will figure something out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuestFan Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 (edited) Here are some half arse pics of my T-stat housing just to maybe give you an idea: http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/7559/img1776rd.jpg http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/4858/img1777k.jpg http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/7840/img1778ml.jpg Edited October 14, 2011 by QuestFan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 i may have found another way, local machinest is going to make me an adaptor plate for our head to evo manifold, including having a niple for the heatercore hose, and thermostat housingdepending on price, i may be able to talk him into doing a GBplate will likely be around 1" thick, evo intake leans towards front of car, so should still clear brakes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 UPDATE! the new manifold is under way! and looking good so far,! using 6063 t56 aluminum 4x4 square tube and 2'' aluminum tube with a 1.67'' inner diameter 6063 t65 round tube it is looking pretty good. measurements came up good but i'm not sure if it's a tad too big though, the runners are 6'' each as for the welding part, I used aluminum to aluminum HST 2000 braze rods and it holds strong i still need to join the 4x4 tube but here is what it will look like PICS!: http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/1976/imag0325k.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/4238/imag0326v.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/8938/imag0327b.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us total cost of materials plus shipping = 48$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 ok looks like more work ahead, i dont know where i got my measurements but they are way off, 6 inch runners straight are impossible with a 4x4 plenum...so a diagnal cut must be done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopDawg_43 Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 I am going to say that it can and probably will be done for under $500. Cheap and fast is not reliable. Fast and reliable isnt cheap.step into the way back machine: http://www.starquest...=1 Could not have said it any better. I remember that build, way back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 the new product ! still need to build up the thermostat housing and fuel rail is in the mail! http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/386/imag0328h.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/6109/imag0330w.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
button Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 It will be interesting to see how the varied runners will work out.In NA or "out of boost" I think you will have weird performance. I don't think it will be predictable.I think in boost you won't see much of a difference. Just keep in mind, there are plenty of proven setups you could copy.Long runner big plenum (low end torque, hp cuts off earlier), short runner big plenum (upper end hp, bad lowend)curved runners (torque), straight runners (hp)180° runners (torque), straight shot into cylinder with a raised roof on head intake side (hp) let us know how this works out for sure, good or bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fawkes Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 I must commend him for his efforts and resolve. What is the status on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 you think the runners will make that much of a difference in performance? smallest to largest is about an inch in difference, also I ported it a little, the stock was 1.5" and mine are 1.76'' will an inch +/- .25 make that much difference to feel? i dont really think so honestly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fawkes Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 It does make a big difference. From what I can see I'd say that you are better off have EXACT equal length runners and a good sized plenum. I personally wouldn't use a BOX shaped plenum. I'd use a cylinder shaped or similar. I'm not trying to tell you what to do or you are doing it wrong. I'm just trying to give you helpful advice from an experienced fabricator. I admire your drive to create your own manifold. To be honest with you runner length and plenum design are the most important things when considering your powerband. This means that every single choice you make (good or bad) in the build of your plenum will show itself. Ever wonder why the runners on most cars are 8-10" long? Simple. Most people driving cars won't ever see the powerband above 4500RPMs (that is the average driver not you and me hot rodders) and the runners being equal and 8-10" long give the car more power down low where most people see the powerband. I would say: If you are going to build it, build it right so you are happy with your end result. I haven't heard of anyone anywhere using unequal length runners for any reason. Its just silly. I'm not trying to humiliate you and your work. Just trying to give you a more solid direction on how to build a nice manifold with good performance characteristics. - Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted October 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) only reason I decided to do it that way is so that damn thing will fit, and honestly i'm not trying to make a max perfomance super car or anything hah, i dont even plan on changing from the stock turbo for a while after, I'm just using this as my rally car for the mountain tracks ( like pikes peak ) up here where i'm at. - this isn't the thing which i'm going to be going back and forth to work with or anything like that, just my fun car that I can beat up i will definitely post my results with it and how it feels Edited October 27, 2011 by DSMvirus1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 It'll be fine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted October 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 UPDATE: fuel rail ( new ) is under way , thermostat housing built! and throttle body built! ( yes that is a little JB weld on it near the throttle only because that spot was slightly to big for get the braze to stick, ) and i'm suprised that picture shows how dirty and greasy it is haha.. http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/498/imag0331i.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/6668/imag0332m.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Pics inside the car ( clearly not done, just showing clearances and overall what it looks like! http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/3348/imag0333p.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/2940/imag0334c.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotStock88 Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 so its over $500 now Keep up the work. You will get it right eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 yeah probably is, oh well it is fun and i got 90% finished for just the cost of a magna intake so i think i'm doing ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted November 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 update! almoooost finished!! just need the megasquirt usb cable and to tuneee and finish hookking up my exhuast and need to hook up the intercooler to throttle body pipe. im happy i was able to use the stock throttle cable too! just needed to make a custom bracket thats all. thought i'd put an actual car pic too http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1418/imag0336n.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/749/imag0337r.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/5797/imag0338q.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/4726/imag0339h.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/5968/imag0335m.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted89quest Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 you get an A for effort.. I dont think the way your mounting them fuel injectors is going to work though.. what is making the fuel go evenly into each cylinder?? that is the entire reason for MPI right?? it looks like your just shooting it into the plenum and hoping for the best?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 I think you may end up with fuel puddling inside the plenum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMvirus1 Posted November 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 well yeah i guess i'm just hoping for the best hahaha, well i dont know what to call it but it isn't really mpi anymore. the good thing is these injectors dont spray fine or straight or how a normal efi injector would, there is a thing that splits the spray and makes it very very fine kinda makes it look almost like fog, so i think that is why i decided to do it this way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts