importwarrior Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 I was trying to find an alternative to the oil drain issues I see. After some google searches I found this. http://sourceautomot...leoildrain.aspx Cummins turbo flex drain pipe. They come in different lengths depending on year make model.I have seen 15, 21, 25 inch lengths. The ID of the pipe is a little larger then our stock drain.17 to 18mm.I am planing to drain to my pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 22 inch $70http://www.stainless...&product_id=154 21 inch $49.95http://puredieselpow...24v-trucks.html 12 inch $43.23(12 Inch with bend)http://puredieselpow...drain-tube.html 11 ¼ inch $54.00http://sourceautomot...booildrain.aspx length N/A$40https://www.dieselco...drain-tube.html Length N/A $45.85 SKU: 3970875http://www.enterpris...-cr-5-9l-03-up/ http://sourceautomotive.biz/images/products/detail/0428.jpg Slip hose over end and clamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 That would have been helpful when I was modifying a stock drain to work with a GT35. Time spent cutting, bending, brazing and surfacing could have been better spent with that part. But I still like draining to the stock location. Something about all that oil splashing onto the timing chain makes me think the guides may last longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 ^From what I understand, that's the really hot turbo oil being dumped right onto the timing components. That is part of the reason a lot,of cars don't even have the rubber sheet on the tensioner... The hot oil cooks it and makes it brittle, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87redcat Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 Maybe a write up with pics and part numbers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 So drain to the pan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcristquester Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 All those inside ridges might slow down the flow and give the oil a little more time to cool and change back to liquid in case it foams up. Should be fine for a return, but never use that type for a supply line imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 That would be a nice alternative to the drain to -an fittings I've used. They are a PITA! I eventaully had a hydraulic hose made up with the -an ends on it to connect to my drain adapter and the bung welded to the pan. IMO draining to the pan is the only option for an aftermarket turbo. The stock location does not give enough of a drop for a free flowing drain. Especially in hard cornering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 That tube is like 17.5 mm ID. I don't have any part numbers yet.Still looking in to it. I will be buying one for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntercooledFlatty Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 Cummins FTW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeph_tsi Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Excellent find! I'm putting together a single turbo kit right now and want no rubber at all anywhere in the drain tract and all of the aftermarket comes with an fittings. Different engine in my case, but still good for all the same reasons, I bought a flange for the turbo, and for the engine and was going to use corrugated steel egr piping between them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 ^From what I understand, that's the really hot turbo oil being dumped right onto the timing components. That is part of the reason a lot,of cars don't even have the rubber sheet on the tensioner... The hot oil cooks it and makes it brittle, I'm betting that's not much of a concern considering the rubber hose on the drain line gets exposed more and stays intact. I would bet guide failure is due to lack of maintenance, age and oil issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 There is a capped off hole in the block for the NA engines dip stick on the passenger side. One could open up that hole and ream it out so that metal line plugs directly into the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 This is where I found it.Page 16 I believe. Good read. If you have time. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/garrett-holset-turbo-users-your-oil-drain-may-be-too-small.331710/page-16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Better flow. Oil in and Oil out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 the rubber hose on the drain line gets exposed more and stays intact. Yeah it does get exposed to a lot of heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twojayzeestarion Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 I'm betting that's not much of a concern considering the rubber hose on the drain line gets exposed more and stays intact. I would bet guide failure is due to lack of maintenance, age and oil issues. every starquest i have gotten has had a very brittle and shotty oil drain hose the ends are normally also cracked. the fact is the stock drail location is terrible. a completly vertical straight shot to the oil pan is much better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Good topic with positives on both sides about the drain location. My experience in a general sense, is any time a change is made in respect to the factory oiling, you should do so with care, considering all options, and keep a close eye on it. In this case, you may want to pull the VC every so often to see if the guides are staying oiled well. Of course that is up for interpretation too. How well is well enough? The chain does not get much direct oil on it otherwise. Maybe some from the overflow hole in the pump, and the little block oil squirter up front there (if I remember right). If we are concerned about the oil being too hot, then I think that is a secondary issue from another and greater problem elsewhere, like the boost is turned up too high for the efficiency range of the turbo, the timing is too retarded, clogged oil cooler, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 If we are concerned about the oil being too hot, then I think that is a secondary issue from another and greater problem elsewhere, like the boost is turned up too high for the efficiency range of the turbo, the timing is too retarded, clogged oil cooler, etc... Agreed. The water lines can be upgraded to maximize cooling and drop a lot of heat soak in that area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 Should I move the initial post to the FAQ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjohnson Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 Should I move the initial post to the FAQ?Well im thinking that right now its still an un answered question. When we know for sure that the oil drain doesn't need to be in the stock location then its still good here. Id like to know if this is shortening the life of the chain guides too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 the drain pipe is flexible. bend it so it can go to the stock location.Or buy the longer one and make it a pan drain. It is a personal preference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted September 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 small update...The three different drains all fit our stock turbo bolt patterns.The T6 has the largest opening but the hose barb i am using down sized to 3/4 inch hose.the Cummins is by far bigger then the T3 but the flex part concerns me about draining smoothly.i really like the Cummins drain but it seems to be very thin metal. i feel it is going to work great.even if you get the shorter one it will be a great mod for sure. i got the Cummins Turbo drain 21 inches long. i will be draining to the pan. http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Turbo/Turbo%20Drain/3010F6DE-05D7-4258-BB8A-38FF7345E3CB_zpsmbgv1tmy.jpg the flex part is about 7/8 inch necked down part is like 3/4 inch. Left to rightT3 -Cummins - T6 http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Turbo/Turbo%20Drain/417ACB42-CA12-4565-8C0B-E3C423805C05_zpswvnbyncn.jpg Close up of T3 to the cummins http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Turbo/Turbo%20Drain/B8384E8F-B2AF-4C9B-8186-71C86E156A37_zpsbigg2xac.jpg Cummins compared to the T6 http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Turbo/Turbo%20Drain/BB590B56-7710-47F0-8F58-3D135C3E9771_zpstttmtfkp.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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