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BKB94

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Everything posted by BKB94

  1. Would also get rid of the MSD unit, or at least remove it for testing.
  2. What year? Any pictures of these sensors and wiring? It’s common for igniters and even coils to have electrical issues when the heat up. You could test it with a heat gun and see if you get now spark on a cold engine.
  3. Most of the SEM bumper and trim paints want many very light coats with generous flash times. What you posted looks like what I have seen from wet coats. I do 3 dust coats maybe 12-24hrs between coats, it’s a chemical process that bonds.
  4. List what SEM product you are using and temps you are spraying at.
  5. Why not just buy universal and replace everything. I have less then 1k buying a new compressor, all hoses, fittings and dryer plus crimping tool. No more dealing with old junk.
  6. I bought 2 kits off Amazon. Just look at the sizes and it seems there are 2 common metric sizes from the kits I looked at. Think it was under $30 for both kits. Weird part is the larger the o-ring even if it fits the worse my micron rating while pulling a vacuum. It seemed if the tubes slipped together with slight drag from the o-ring it sealed better.
  7. You would need to have custom 1/2 shafts made. A few ways to make that happen. The ford shafts could be shortened and re-splined to fit your stock outers. Cut both shafts sleeve and weld, getto but I have done it a few times with zero failures. Have a complete driveshaft shop custom shafts made.
  8. Mounting the pumpkin is the easy part. Really wonder if that place ever completed anything and had working proof of concepts front or rear. I guess we may never know.
  9. If you’re going to modify it and require a new driveshaft then you go with one of the many versions of the Ford 8.8. They are cheap available in all aluminum or cast, cheap unlimited gear ratios, clutch style, spools, torsion diffs. Lots of room underneath to mount it and have custom driveshaft and half shafts made.
  10. SEM bumper black. It has the adhesion promoters in it that are needed for plastic parts.
  11. I ended up ordering a small truck load of stereo equipment. Updating the mustang and truck systems and the quest needed something. The 5.0 is the true music so this is all that's going in the Quest. I wanted keyless entry with a nice remote, apple car play, backup camera. Must say this is so far the sadist sounding system I have heard in a while. Hope sealing them off and adding door panels helps, I never add rear staging but this thing might need it. I'm prepping for paint but took it for one more drive, a bit cold and the heat wasn't helping. This might be the last update for a while. I think the next time you see this turd it will be done. Still need to clean out my dads barn and build a paint booth. These cars have way to many parts to paint. Unfortunately my truck died and its pretty major, might be pulling the engine. This puts me in a jam since I need the truck to clean out the barn and take all my stuff over.
  12. Stock is 21mm this is 26mm ( .197 inch larger ) but I would say the heat treatment must also be massively different since the ST bar is significantly stronger.
  13. Both my windows when down a bit can be rocked back and forth a lot. Is this another unique feature of the starquest? I'm thinking yes since there is no track for the window below the belt line just this weird main shaft with two oval bushings, are these bushings worn?
  14. The front tokico's are now $50. During banding I forgot there was tape on the shaft to hold the gland nut on, It got sucked into the shaft seal and purged some nitrogen before I could remove the tape. Freak accident but I had to refund the buyers money and now offering them cheap.
  15. Congratulations on your 1 year, sorry it seems you're not getting along. Also, sorry I didn't get you anything.
  16. I started buying parts for this project in 1996 and it’s all documented. Back then these cars were common in the junk yards and nobody touched them. Back then you would go in line like a pack mule and they would charge $20 for as much as you could carry. I would walk out with 2 fenders, carpet around my head, back pack full of HVAC units and relays. Wheels were always gone. But I’m slowly selling off my stash, have people coming almost every weekend and that money is why I’m not expecting this 10k or so to increase.
  17. Will trade for passenger side sill plate un-broken. steering controls, 3rd tail light small crack, mirror control for a believe non auto seat belts. exhaust-cat hangers AC switches
  18. Well did something you should never do with a project like this, added it all up. So this is my all in # and I do mean all in, every roll of tape, wire loom, light bulbs, the car, paint, tires. Good news is I should be done spending money since I have a running - driving car and have all parts and paint supplies to finish it. $9981.50 I gave myself a $6500 budget, aluminum heads and the D2s being the 2 big unexpected purchases of $2300.00 + $6500.00 budget = $8900.00 I did come into this project kind of blind in that the drivetrain was chosen but little else was planned. The fact that it's probably a little more on the car show side then just a engine swap helps justify the added expense. I'm not upset but going to be a bit more cautious with spending.
  19. Its junk, comparable to a Challenger 8k base plate. Went to my local garage to ask what they have used and liked. They had this one outside and said $600 and I said sure, went to pick it up and the other owner said $800. When you have 16' ceiling height it's not what you want since it's a base plate model, cables go down and across. So evetime to put a car on it you need to go over that hump, also every time you use you're transmission jack or change trans oil. I also have a ride on floor cleaner and I wish I could ride straight Thue to clean the floor but can't. This lift would work great in my attached 3 car garage with 10' ceilings. But its a life saver and the next purchase will be a 4 post lift to store the quest on when its complete. Still waiting for this huge financial crash and everyone starts selling their toys for pennies on the dollar, pick up a nice 10k 2 post, a 4 post, maybe a newer alignment machine, tire mounting and balancing equipment.
  20. Must be prepared for everything. Thats why I built a waste oil boiler and furnace. Have radiators in the bath room, craft room, and man cave area. Just the heat coming off the boiler keeps it around 56 degrees and that's pretty comfortable if you are working hard, WIFI thermostat so I bump it up before I'm heading out and let the furnace heat it up. I noticed after surgery I'm a bit more cold blooded and its been set to 65. Its been about 16'F lately and I'm nice and cozy in a T-shirt. When things get hot I have a 5 ton AC unit that pulls the whole place down in minutes. You people need to take your hobby a bit more seriously.
  21. I never found spring rates for ST or Eibach springs. Think they are about a 1.5” drop.
  22. 10k for paint, body work and a 2jz ant going to happen. Beagle are you able to do the work yourself or are you farming everything out. I ask because when I was shopping for paint I was at 3k for just material and I have all the guns and consumables. Same with engine work could you wire and tune a stand alone. Can you mig, tig, fabricate, do you have a space to work on the car? We need to know a hell of a lot more about you.
  23. My D2 install. everything was labeled wrong, put all your right side parts on the left and all will work out. They recommend cutting the strut at 1 1/4" tube length but I went 3". I felt a lot better with that much engagement and it gave me a lot more room for plug welds. After blasting the fresh paint off the struts I heated the sleaves up and dropped them on, nice shrink fit. I did 5mm of spring preload, will adjust after the first 1k miles. Did a quick weight scale and only my rear right needed raised to get equal weight. I'm using MKS rear camber plates, there was a question if they work and yes they do. Your alignment guy is going to hate you because you need to drop the strut to guess and adjust then measure again and over and over till it's correct, expect an upcharge on your bill for an extra hour. The front camber plates remove a full degree of caster, not a big deal but again more time on the rack to get back your degree of lost caster. I unbolted my rear cross member and even with a porta power I can't get any movement, its twisted in the car but I can't fix it. I'm going to assume since these cars spend so much time broken down on the side of the road some idiot hooked a rear control arm and hoisted it on a flat bed. All tow hooks have been mangled on every quest I had and same with that nice hole they put in that lower control arm. I was lazy and didn't touch the front tension rods to correct caster. The rear right camber plate is maxed out but because of the crossmember that's as good as its going to get. new weights are 2992 full tank of gas and heavier wheels and tires. FL 736 FR 742 RL 740 RR 734 For all the haters that claimed a V8 would kill the handling I see no proof of that so far. Remember this car still has all options like A/C, PS, and full interior. No intentional weight reduction, in fact more sound insulation is going in soon.
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