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Everything posted by BKB94

  1. I have brushed the frame, under cab, bed of my F350. After 4 coats of rust bullet I said I will never brush again. Now looking at these pictures im thinking I might have a problem with tearing things apart and painting things people don't see, My mustang is already in que to be torn apart and have the underside painted. You would think Im a body man but im an electronics engineer.
  2. Im happy its done but not happy with the results. Lots of things went wrong and I miss calculated how much more material would get wasted painting outside. Not that anyone will know once everything is back together.
  3. 1987 If we could swap that works for me. I just want to have a spare hatch just in case.
  4. I think I have a turbo hatch in my basement, maybe we can work something out.
  5. Frame repair from improper jack location. Cleaning this stuff off has taken way too long and is pushing things back. By now the bottom of the car was to be painted and this week I should be painting suspension parts. Any brown or black areas are the anti-rust coating so I still have most of the floorboards to clean. Went threw 2.5 gallons of 93. Pushed the wrong button on the pump, I keep telling myself it cleans better then 87. Going to roll it out again and pressure wash it good one more time. After that I will start wiping with final prep and then start scuffing everything up. I have a mustang hydroboost and master that will be going on, no more paint peeling. For anyone that wants to do something similar I suggest you confirm you have insurance, tow drag or drive said car to a remote location, use said gas to burn the car to the ground, have a good alibi, report car stollen in the morning. Take the money and buy a Honda. It's been a rough few weeks and I am bitter. For real if this is something you need to tackle a pressure washer is really the key, renting a Hotsy would be even better if you could get the car high enough. Gas was the secret sauce for me along with terry cloths. For some of the dried on stuff around the exhaust I had some bug N tar remover in a can that I would spray on let it sit 15 min and pressure wash off. Brake clean was useless, It worked on the oily mess in seams but did nothing to this coating. I tried wire brushes and gas with little sucess, pneumatic wire wheels splattered the stuff everywhere and for me made way to big of a mess.
  6. This car had a coating like rusty jones or something and its on everything. The sections that were dry like the wheel wells you could scape it off pretty easy and then MEK, WD-40, GAS, Diesel would wipe it off. But the tunnel where oil was flung everywhere it was a very nasty tar like substance that just smeared everywhere. So I threw it on the trailer and pressure washed everything. The dry sections came out nice and the gooey sections are better. I will roll it out again and wipe it all down with rags soaked in Gas while smoking. Then use final prep to get it really clean. Update - Days of wiping this crap off with gas and its just a mess. I will be buying a case of brakeclean to try and blast this stuff out of the seams and behind brackets. I expected to have the bottom painted by now but its not going to happen by this weekend.
  7. So the plan is to get as much body work done as possible and get the shell in color. I will be converting the shed and house 3 car garage into paint booths. The shed will handle all black chassis parts and the garage all body color parts. Anyone in the PA area can help with paint supplies let me know, looking for a new paint system and striking out so far. I did stop buy Colours to see what PPG would run and im at $2200 using the lowest quality of everything possible. Im looking into different colors and that could drop it a few hundred. I'm cleaning out the engine compartment and eliminating wiring / brackets that won't be used. The whole conquest passenger side harness will not be used and was pulled. On the inside kick panel, the EEC relay is also your fuel pump feed and the other connector feeds fused power and ignition switch power to the EEC that will come in handy for the Ford EEC. The Ford engine harness will occupie this space and will probably require a lot of modifications to look OEM. The harness on the drivers side I was very disappointed it continues behind the dash and is not easily pulled. I decided to just slice open sections to remove all the unused connectors and wires. Not planning on a wire tuck at this time just clean up what's there and do something about the bundle of fusible links. B-30 is the connector going to the large gold relay you can see in the above wiring harness. Coming out of that relay is the power feed going to the fuel pump on the single wire spade connector. B-38 is the white connector that has lots of fused and ignition power that I will use for the Ford EEC. The yellow and blue connectors go the Conquest ECI that was removed a long time ago.
  8. Ok, anyone have an opinion between these and Eibach's. Also did these cars very use a lower spring isolator?
  9. Stupid me thought this would be a fun project that I could take my time. I quickly realized I don't work well without some kind of due date or urgency. So put the car on the lift and tore it apart, I now must complete the underpinnings If I want my lift back. I'm not going to turn this into a restoration section ( I have decided this site is so dead I will clutter this up with more pictures of the restoration ) but will update when major milestones are completed. So the plan is 1. Paint complete undercarriage, No rust repair needed. 2. Install most of my full poly bushing kit. 3. Fuel tank rehab ( Its rusted bad inside ) clean inside and out paint / seal, internal pump. Update tank was so bad I purchased a used one. 4. Suspension / axle full disassembly of everything, paint and powder coat, bearings and seals replaced. 5. paint engine compartment, I have a color but need to pick a system. PPG will not be getting my money. Update actually they might be.
  10. Worked when removed in the 90's and had been in storage ever since. Sold as is make offer. Sold
  11. The cooler and lines are in real nice condition (gone) Heat shields are also really nice. This steering box is tight and possibly has been replaced or rebuilt at some time. make an offer
  12. They are not Eibach only thing on them is a sticker saying front, any idea brand or spring rate. Rears are way too low but I remember people saying the Eibach's were also lower in the back.
  13. I was all gun ho and was going to do a 255lph in tank but with the work load increasing I'm thinking why do more. Reasons I wanted to do in tank are 1. Thats where fuel pumps belong, in the tank to run cooler and be quieter 2. Eliminate some of the funky filters and things in the fuel system, use newer ford mustang parts. 3. Ethanol friendly everything Fabrication is no issue and I'm not planning high HP so stock lines and a walbro pump would do fine. I'm trying to simplify some of what the engineers over engineered and update as I go with more assessable parts.
  14. So any big changes in ride or noise after all the poly bushings?
  15. Poly bushings are not new to me but In every car I have owned Im mindful of where I install them. I purchased a kit a decade ago and ready to install but with the fantastic condition the factory bushings were in I wanted to see what everyone thinks. So the list of OEM isolators / bushings staying are the torque tub isolators, rear pumpkin mounts, motor and trans mounts are also rubber. The mounts I'm on the fence about are the large rear crossmember to body mounts, I don't want to hear / feel the ring and pinion. I will say this that I seem to be more in tune with noise and vibration then most that ride in my cars, why I have RV mufflers on my mustang. I used to pore my own poly mounts so I could add some compliance in an axis to reduce suspension noise/shock. I searched and could not find a single complaint about ride quality after doing all bushings.
  16. Yep, I have been saving that clip for a while. I'm going to try and pull the fuel out and into a 55 gallon drum. Going to pressure wash everything before I disassemble.
  17. well you inspired me. My car is on the lift and I'm dropping everything to be cleaned, painted, rebuilt, poly bushings installed. Im so glad that the last time I drove it I filled the tank all the way.
  18. It’s the Saturn rack. I’m pretty sure the person that did the Saturn rack is using it as a manual and capped the lines. Shadow rack was my 3rd choice but many of these racks are getting very hard to find or pushing $400. Also other then you I don’t believe I have seen anyone else even look at bumpsteer. I was just shocked that a 1/4 inch in height would put me from massive bump out to equally massive bump in. I am leaning the rack back 15’ so it makes the mounts a bit interesting.
  19. I have been working on other things and just looked at the rack tonight. I'm still shocked how such small adjustments in height of the rack can change it from bump out to bump in. If I was smart I would just drill out the knuckles and do Heims so I can adjust bump on that end but I want to try and stick to OEM style tie rods for now. My biggest problem is the steel lines on top of this rack and the fact that I will need to modify the oil pan to make it work. I need to fix my lathe to make some mounts get the rack in position and see If I have the height in the pan / engine to use this rack.
  20. only wear item on the caster plate would be the mono ball. If it has C-clips its rebuildable If not it would probably need to be cut off and a replacement welded on the plate. If its a quality piece it should last a long time. It will raddle when its shot.
  21. BKB94

    A/C line

    And you are located where?
  22. The 5.0 So I was told this engine had 88k miles and at $500 for a complete engine with BBK shorty headers and full wiring harness I can't complain. The plan was to spend as little money as possible on the junk yard engine, like 300 for tune up and seals / gaskets. I was going to pull the last rod cap and inspect, if all was good install the front sump pan with pickup clean and paint/powder coat. Well the bearings did not look good at all and I ordered main and rods in STD. Went cheap rebuilder grade ($45.00 shipped) not my typical Clevite 77 babbitt bearings so just kept it clean. Noticed a double roller T-chain so I'm not the first inside this engine, gives me home that possibly someone installed a mild cam. I will have to measure lift and see what I get, I did pull a valve cover and stamped rockers so no goodies there. Because of the condition of everything I'm guessing this engine has 130-160K miles on it. I'm not worried but do to these findings I will do a leak down test to make sure rings, valves are good. Update - Leak down was horrible as in I don't think this engine would run. Best cylinder was 15% average was probably 35% I'm used to 1-3% on the engines I built. I think the double roller T-chain is the link to this story. All exhaust valves are bent so either the stock chain slipped or broke or someone was playing and screwed up the install of this chain. Now I'm really pissed I didn't buy those new aluminum heads for $550 shipped black Friday special. I have been spending money like crazy on other projects so the engine will probably be done after the shell is painted.
  23. And that is the reason Im going with my 5.0, simple easy and dead nuts reliable. The 2.6 was a fresh rebuild in this car and ran decent most of the time. Wiring harness was butchered and all sensors were in different stages of failing. Hit a bump it died, raining out it wouldn't start. I beeped every wire to the ECU correcting all the damage from the last owner but when the MAF started failing I sold the complete driveline to a good home. I thought about re-wiring the car with a Honda or Ford ECU since i can tune those and go MPFI, a huge plus getting rid of all the outdated no longer available sensors and adding true weather proof connectors. But this car needs a V8 rumble in my opinion. I dont have much for updates. The engine seems to be in a good spot, plenty of clearance around the sway bar and crossmember. Behind the engine i can see the bolts in the bellhousing like i can on a Mustang. Trans tunnel is tight but I only had to hammer one little spot on the drivers side where the internal support has the 3 humps. Looks like it belongs in the engine bay until you try to put headers on. Im focusing on the R&P right now to see if this saturn rack is usable, at first look its not good but I will pull the motor and see if i can get bump steer under control.
  24. Well maybe if you ever came over in your car it would have motivated me. Im super glad I waited till everything quadrupled in price to start a project. Paint has gotten stupid.
  25. Rims can have damage since I’m sending a bunch to wheel collision center. Let me know what you have. 6 bolt rear In nice shape. Not supper sure I want or need this but if the price is right I’ll do it. I would expect to replace boots but don’t want heavy rust. I’m Allentown PA area and it cost $250 to fill my truck tank so closer is better.
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