BKB94

Been busy but not on the quest. My uncle passed and his house is 3hrs away so every weekend has been cleaning out the house. The truck hates me and cracked a head and lost a caliper. Barn AC had a leak and I can't work in this heat, so brazed in some patches on the condenser and its back in action. Started getting my dads barn cleaned up and the wiring failed in the ceiling and no light and most receptacle's dead. Waiting for the heat to calm down to clean, add more lighting, and build the paint booth. Back to the build. A/C So I have been wanting to get the A/C charged and check one thing off my list. Pulled a vacuum and weighed in a charge, was using a Fox mustang as an idea how much it would take 28-32 OZ. I knew the AC worked before because I heard the clutch pulled in months ago when I had a nitrogen charge in it to leak check. But no matter what I couldn't get 12V from the HVAC control. Then you start doubting all your work so I had to beep everything out to confirm its correct. Once all was confirmed I replaced the HVAC box and again I heard the clutch kick in then release soon later. Check the voltage and I would get 3.5 VDC off wire 36 so I'm damaging the output of the HVAC control. My mistake was that when you here AC clutch relay you would assume the relay is putting the load across the contacts with a 15amp fused supply. But I come to find that ford inside the CCRM is using a NC relay for WOT cut out. So I need to add a 15 amp fused power to a A/C relay probably behind the dash, many fused circuits are not being used do to the CCRM. Pin 21 is 12V from HVAC through my aftermarket trinary switch and then into the CCRM. Here is the Trinary switch, drier, CCRM. Still extremely happy with the clean set up, not that it was hard to make it nicer then the rats next that Mitsubishi made. But the best part is it works awesome, 92'F and humid with no doors or hatch and 36'F out the vents. Ended up dumping 2 pounds in it and my pressures are still low by 15psi but good enough for now. This junkyard 5.0 So after re-torquing the lower intake I had lots of weird issues and its getting worse. Its in a high idle and burns oil, worse the warmer it gets. So I'm pretty sure the lower intake needs thicker gaskets and the ports are open at the bottom of the ports sucking in oily vapor. Will probably address this before paint.

Driveshaft gone still have crossmembers

I love hyper pistons with a competent machine shop that hones it properly with a deck plate. You can have any piston made any way you want it, cost used to be negligible over off the shelf pistons. As always forged pistons give you head room for poor tuning, high EGTs, detonation. But honestly with all the OEMs using hyper pistons with direct injected turbo engines I have never seen an engine failure do to the piston failing, even with massive HP tunes. I would pick a light hyper piston that uses a modern ring package but not low tension. You could go gapless rings but I still have oil consumption issues with the gapless second ring. My leak down is almost un measurable but I have yet to get the PVC dialed in to where under deceleration I’m not pulling oil into the manifold. Might be a roots blower specific issue.

My experience with the ready to spray cans is its very thin and does not cover well. I did a dark green fender and it took 3 cans, your result may very.

Redhead unfortunately is not what it was 10 years ago. Lots of poor customer service reports for bad steering boxes. Might be your only option though. Check with blue top and see if they will touch it. Although blue top is having staffing issues themselves since no one seems to want to work anymore.

Think spec is .040 thread exposed on gland nut when tight. Best method is to find pipe that fits the nub on the bottom of the strut and make a spacer like they were when new. Maybe post pictures, don’t understand why no one ever post pictures. the struts on the left are missing the spacers that came with the Bilstein strut inserts, ones on the right have them on. Do you have those on? Either way that's what you need and how you would want to fix this issue. Machine shop might do this for you but not worth their time. Unless KYB are totally different, every cut a strut I have done has a nub on the bottom for spacers.

Would also get rid of the MSD unit, or at least remove it for testing.

What year? Any pictures of these sensors and wiring? It’s common for igniters and even coils to have electrical issues when the heat up. You could test it with a heat gun and see if you get now spark on a cold engine.

Most of the SEM bumper and trim paints want many very light coats with generous flash times. What you posted looks like what I have seen from wet coats. I do 3 dust coats maybe 12-24hrs between coats, it’s a chemical process that bonds.

List what SEM product you are using and temps you are spraying at.

Why not just buy universal and replace everything. I have less then 1k buying a new compressor, all hoses, fittings and dryer plus crimping tool. No more dealing with old junk.

I bought 2 kits off Amazon. Just look at the sizes and it seems there are 2 common metric sizes from the kits I looked at. Think it was under $30 for both kits. Weird part is the larger the o-ring even if it fits the worse my micron rating while pulling a vacuum. It seemed if the tubes slipped together with slight drag from the o-ring it sealed better.

You would need to have custom 1/2 shafts made. A few ways to make that happen. The ford shafts could be shortened and re-splined to fit your stock outers. Cut both shafts sleeve and weld, getto but I have done it a few times with zero failures. Have a complete driveshaft shop custom shafts made.

Mounting the pumpkin is the easy part. Really wonder if that place ever completed anything and had working proof of concepts front or rear. I guess we may never know.

If you’re going to modify it and require a new driveshaft then you go with one of the many versions of the Ford 8.8. They are cheap available in all aluminum or cast, cheap unlimited gear ratios, clutch style, spools, torsion diffs. Lots of room underneath to mount it and have custom driveshaft and half shafts made.

SEM bumper black. It has the adhesion promoters in it that are needed for plastic parts.

I ended up ordering a small truck load of stereo equipment. Updating the mustang and truck systems and the quest needed something. The 5.0 is the true music so this is all that's going in the Quest. I wanted keyless entry with a nice remote, apple car play, backup camera. Must say this is so far the sadist sounding system I have heard in a while. Hope sealing them off and adding door panels helps, I never add rear staging but this thing might need it. I'm prepping for paint but took it for one more drive, a bit cold and the heat wasn't helping. This might be the last update for a while. I think the next time you see this turd it will be done. Still need to clean out my dads barn and build a paint booth. These cars have way to many parts to paint. Unfortunately my truck died and its pretty major, might be pulling the engine. This puts me in a jam since I need the truck to clean out the barn and take all my stuff over.

Stock is 21mm this is 26mm ( .197 inch larger ) but I would say the heat treatment must also be massively different since the ST bar is significantly stronger.

To the best of my knowledge, it is

Both my windows when down a bit can be rocked back and forth a lot. Is this another unique feature of the starquest? I'm thinking yes since there is no track for the window below the belt line just this weird main shaft with two oval bushings, are these bushings worn?

The front tokico's are now $50. During banding I forgot there was tape on the shaft to hold the gland nut on, It got sucked into the shaft seal and purged some nitrogen before I could remove the tape. Freak accident but I had to refund the buyers money and now offering them cheap.

update of what's left

Congratulations on your 1 year, sorry it seems you're not getting along. Also, sorry I didn't get you anything.

I started buying parts for this project in 1996 and it’s all documented. Back then these cars were common in the junk yards and nobody touched them. Back then you would go in line like a pack mule and they would charge $20 for as much as you could carry. I would walk out with 2 fenders, carpet around my head, back pack full of HVAC units and relays. Wheels were always gone. But I’m slowly selling off my stash, have people coming almost every weekend and that money is why I’m not expecting this 10k or so to increase.

Will trade for passenger side sill plate un-broken. steering controls, 3rd tail light small crack, mirror control for a believe non auto seat belts. exhaust-cat hangers AC switches