GoldStar

First thing to try is a TPS/ISC reset outlined here, you actually set the idle RPM per the procedure: https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?/forums/forum/65-fuelecu-system/ If you do everything right, get your voltage readings in order, and it's still acting up, I would look for more vacuum leaks. I had a very similar issue on mine that ended up being a "bad" blow-off valve that would leak vacuum at idle, swapping it out with a good one fixed the problem.

Another thing with these cars is the stock boost gauge is notoriously inaccurate. From what I understand, that gauge isn't directly reading intake pressure; rather, it's displaying what the ECU thinks the boost is, because the ECU doesn't have a way to directly read intake pressure either. Yet another common mod is to install a mechanical boost gauge, either replacing the one in the cluster or adding one somewhere in the interior. 10 lbs is stock for 88-89 cars (which have 3-port wastegates), and 7 lbs is stock for 87 and older (single port wastegates).

No, but there are a couple of threaded holes below that you can use to mount it. For the ground strap, I just screwed it back where it was before I installed the 88 box.

While I can't confirm, I hear that even the narrowband output from modern widebands will cause running issues because our ECUs can't keep up with them.

Unless you're looking for OEM, Mookeeh has a set of rear strut housings on Ebay which allow you to use MR2 front shock inserts, assuming your's is a widebody.

Spa Turbo USA makes one too, I run one and it works great for me: |https://spaturbousa.com/products/dodge-conquest-mitsubishi-starion-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator-vlrpf512

In addition, and should be installed further downstream from the O2 sensor (I think I read somewhere >18 inches away the turbo hotside?). The O2 sensor is still needed for the ECU.

Wideband air/fuel ratio sensor. Reads the same thing an O2 sensor does (how rich or lean the exhaust gas is pre-catalytic converter), but is much more accurate, and is connected to a separate gauge readout. Pretty much a requirement on these cars when doing any tuning or diagnosing issues such as this.

It's been a minute, but I thought I'd revisit this. Hadn't gotten around to rebuilding the solenoids, but I did flush the hell out of the fluid when I swapped in Mikie's brake fluid reservoirs which unfortunately made no difference. However, I did 100% confirm this issue is caused by the LED brake lights by performing the following: Replaced the 6 LEDs in the taillight housings with the standard bulbs Foot on brake, turned key to ON and listened/heard the power-on self test of the ABS solenoids Started engine, then foot off brake No ABS light Swapped the bulbs with LEDs Performed steps #2 & #3 Got ABS light after roughly 10 seconds of run time Did the above a second time to triple-confirm it was the LEDs, so I'd like to try getting at that B-12 resistor. Has anyone tried replacing this resistor before? Can it be reached with the gauge pod off, or do I have to go through the bottom of the dash? This line art I found isn't great (page 8-36).

It's the connector for the ISC motor, but the wire you're looking to jump is on the male connector to the harness side, not the female connector going to the motor. The wire colors change over this connector. Keep in mind, that step is meant to trick the ECU to think the tip switch is closed.

Definitely do this. I'm running into the same issue (won't hold idle coming off throttle, super rich AFR when it does idle), and I recently figured out that my 1g DSM blow off valve is causing a vacuum leak. As soon as I plug the "horn" opening with my hand, it holds idle great and AFRs go right back to stoich.

What else have you tried?

This definitely sounds multi-layered. Problems #2, #3, & #4 sound to me like one of your problems is a loose connection somewhere (slowing down the whole car forces the connection to contact/break). Considering this affects so many things in the interior, my guess is it's highly related to the fusible links/multi-purpose fuses. Regarding the turn signals, try putting on one turn signal, then wiggle the stalk to see if anything changes. Do your hazards work at all?

He does not have one, so still searching for one in the DFW area.

Alright, I'll see if I can hit him up, thanks

I have not, didn't know of anyone around here who had parts cars/stockpiles. What does he go by here?

Looking to see if anyone in the DFW/northern Texas area has an older-style black leather driver's seat they're willing to part with. My seat back got pretty twisted after a recent accident. The leather doesn't have to be perfect, just relatively intact.

In case you aren't aware, these cars do not have rack and pinion steering (one of the weakest points about these cars IMO). They have worm gear steering, which consists of a steering box and a center link, AKA drag link. Think old-school truck steering. It's quick-ratio, but not very direct-feeling due to all the separate components involved in the steering system. Mikie at MKSMotorsport can send you a fresh center link if you send him your old one. For the steering box, Red Head Steering Gears up in Washington do a great job rebuilding our boxes.

Welcome. Obviously, check all the basic stuff as outlined in the newbie checklist to get all of the maintenance up-to-date. Once you do that, then you can move on to more power. Since yours is an 87, the newbie checklist also mentions some easy power modifications to look into, such as the 88-89 ECU, igniter, 3-port wastegate actuator, and distributor upgrades. Steve at starquestparts.net should have most of these, plus any other (used) parts you may need. For your photos, you can host them on Imgur, link to them here, and the forum software will pick up on them. Here's a write up I made on how to do it: Regarding the turbo, a popular modification was to have a shop bore out the compressor side and install a larger compressor wheel. From what I understand, this increases spool up time, but more boost is generated when the turbo does spool.

Fewer Starquests, Starquest owners, and the Facebook groups are the main culprits, I'd wager. That, and the the pinned topics here do a good job taking care of most stuff. I'm thinking an effort should be made to remind those in the Facebook groups that the site exists (and signups are free!). I'm in a couple of them, and I know a multitude of the questions that are asked on a weekly basis could be answered by searching here. Hell, I saw a guy who did a pretty good write-up on how to rebuild the whole ABS modulator, but Facebook's format made reading it a slog. Tried to get him to sign up and make a post here, but he seemed put off about it like it was too much work.

Posting this as an FYI. I recently tried to order a full set of replacement fusible links from one of my local Mitsu dealers. I was able to order replacements for all of them except for the 18 gauge red link (part # MB037669). In my conversation with the parts counter, it sounds like all the other links may be destined for the same fate, albeit they can be acquired for now. My red links are fine for the moment, but I guess I'll have to make my own when it's time.

Mikie does sell a Conquest decal set, but not the steering wheel control/HVAC overlays (yet, at least)

Some time back, I replaced my head as the cam caps had developed stress fractures. I now have a jet-valve head taking up precious space in my garage, as well as another set of cam caps/rocker arms/rockers that I naively thought I could just swap with the cracked ones. Was thinking about just scrapping it all since it looks like G54B heads are still being produced, but I wanted to get a second opinion before I did. What should I do with it? It does have the jet-valve delete kit, but it definitely would need to be resurfaced at this point, and if someone would want to make the replacement caps work, they would need to be line-bored with the head to fit cam bearings.

As a heads-up, Natallica's still going. Got a set of 87 steering wheel controls from him about a month ago. Noticed the links referenced here don't work, so here's the updated one: https://nbingaman.wixsite.com/natallicasproducts

Under the passenger side of the dashboard, bolted to (what I believe is) the blower motor, is your light controller. It's probably going bad. Try tapping it to see if your HVAC lights come on again. Mine's doing the same thing, albeit intermittently. If I smack the underside of the glove box hard enough, it'll start working again. Here are a couple of pics: https://i.imgur.com/BqE4bUL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/qh7GxWU.jpg