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Everything posted by GoldStar

  1. Kinda like a growl? If so, that sounds to me like a bad bearing somewhere in the diff or the torque tube. Could also be either of the rear wheel bearings. Not sure how one could test the former, so someone can chime in there, but for the latter, one of the things you can do is find an empty stretch of road, get it up to speed where you can clearly hear the noise, then start swerving side-to-side to see if the noise changes. If it gets louder in one direction vs the other, then the side with the most load at that time has the bad wheel bearing. If no difference, it's most likely something at the diff/torque tube.
  2. Been thinking about hitting him up for mine. How long did it take you to get your struts back from him, roughly?
  3. Almost, I want the inner bulbs to be the only two used for the brake function, and the outer bulbs to only be used for the turn signal/hazard function; no brake light function for the outers. For the outer bulbs, I literally added a new wire to the socket, then moved the WL/WR wires you see in the diagram to the new wire I had added to the outer bulb sockets. Then, since the inner two bulbs no longer had any function (outside of the taillights), I tapped wires from the 3rd brake light power and ran them to where the WL/WR wires used to be to each of the taillight assemblies.
  4. Not quite. The only circuit all 3 of the bulbs share is the taillight circuit like they did from the factory. The inner two bulbs are getting their brake light function basically from the 3rd brake light circuit, and the outer bulbs are getting the brake/turn/hazard function from the circuit the inner two used to be connected to. Probably should have posted this earlier, but attached is how it's wired up logically. Disconnecting the B-27 connector (or cutting the GW wire just prior to it) should disconnect the outer bulbs from the brake light circuit, but on my 87 it does not, and I can't think of a reason why a PO would bypass any part of this circuit.
  5. So my original plan when doing this was to leave the brake light duty for the inner two bulbs only and have the hazard/turn signal function to the outer bulb only. Going off of this diagram here from starquestgarage, I thought all I'd need to do to achieve this (after doing the above) would be to cut the GW wire going into the hazard switch (since the hazard and turn signal circuits have their own source of battery power): But, even after I completely disconnected the B-27 connector, the outer bulbs are still coming on with the brake lights. Is there something different with the 87 wiring?
  6. Inspired by this ye olde thread: https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/37443-rewire-your-taillights-aussie-style-pics-video/ I don't know about you, but it's always annoyed me that the outer taillight bulbs in the USDM Starquests are just that; taillight bulbs. They take the same type of bulbs as the inner two, and the sockets are even keyed for one-way installation, so why the hell don't they function as the turn signal/hazard lights? Was it a market-specific styling decision? A regulation-compliance thing? Regardless, to me it was stupid and I decided to do something about it. Basically, what we're going to be doing is moving the turn signal/hazard function of the inner two brake light bulbs to the outer bulb on each corner while retaining the brake light function for the inners. The AUS/JP harnesses may already have this wiring set up, but I'm going to guess most of us don't have those lying around. You're going to need: Standard pliers AND channel locks A soldering iron and solder Solder sucker/remover Wire cutters and wire strippers A good roll of wire Heat-sink butt connectors A set of "helping hand" soldering wire clips A small file A small flat-head screw driver Straight pick or terminal extractor/depinning tool (if your flathead screwdriver isn't small enough) 2x 1/4 inch female quick-disconnects, 18-22 gauge 2x 1/4 inch male blade connectors with locking tabs (I got mine using an extra taillight harness I had lying around) and some patience. For the record, I'm working with an 87 Conquest. The below steps mostly go over setting up the passenger stop lamp harness, but the same apply to the driver side. First, disconnect and remove your stop lamp harness from your taillights. You'll most likely have to remove the whole taillight assembly to do this (2 nuts/studs near each taillight bulb) but once you get the harness out, you can reinstall the assembly; the harness for the outer bulbs should be long enough to reach around the bodywork. Once you got the harness out, the only socket we're working with is the outer bulb socket (not to be confused with the reverse light socket, which has much shorter wiring). Looking at it through the bottom, you can see an empty contact pad. This is how we'll be providing power to the other filament for the turn signals/hazards. https://i.imgur.com/VJbb7zC.png We need to remove the metal socket from the plastic housing. Put one of your bulbs in the socket to prevent deformation. Then, use your channel locks to hold the plastic housing while you use your pliers to twist and pull the metal socket as pictured below. Don't squeeze to hard with either, and don't twist the metal socket too much; you could damage the ground strap which has a relief in the plastic housing. Just twist the socket back-and-forth carefully while pulling outwards, and it should come out. https://i.imgur.com/k8Bg3KC.png https://i.imgur.com/W9qYj0m.png Now that we got the socket out, we can start modifying it for our new circuit. At the bottom of the socket is the contact pad, which is held up with a spring and stopped using tabs/reliefs in the socket housing. Take your small screwdriver and push down on one of the tabs from the inside to to tilt the pad, so the OPPOSITE tab jumps out of it's relief hole in the socket https://i.imgur.com/9QcJSnf.png Once one of the tabs is free, use your small screwdriver to push out the pad: https://i.imgur.com/uAwnqIG.png The taillight (GW) wire should give you enough slack to work. Next, get your "helping hands" to hold the contact pad. Use your soldering iron and solder sucker to remove the solder from the (currently) unused pad connection until the hole in the pad is present, then feed your new wire through the hole and add new solder like so: https://i.imgur.com/Z17x3GB.png Take your wire cutters and clip as much wire/excess solder off as you can, then finish the job with your file using the other untouched pad for reference. It doesn't need to be perfect, just close enough; the spring in the socket should take care of any small differences in height: https://i.imgur.com/Ix5Znh2.png If you haven't already, feed the new wire you just added through the center of the socket like the existing taillight wire is. If you want to be really neat, you can run the wire through the existing harness sheathing, but I'm lazy and my wires were too big, so I opted not to. Now, reinstall the contact pad to the socket. It's crucial you keep in mind the orientation of the pad when you install it as the contacts on the pad correspond to the different-brightness filaments in the bulb. Luckily the contact pad itself has different sized tabs which have their correspondingly-sized relief holes in the socket: https://i.imgur.com/wLMpKzK.png Once it's installed, you're good to re-install the plastic housing by forcing the socket back in, just keep in mind the relief for the ground strap. https://i.imgur.com/4qX7Ay2.png Now, so we retain the ability to remove this harness from the car without cutting wires, we're going to be adding this wire into the harness connector, which luckily has 2 free ports. Take one of your blade connectors and crimp it on to the new wire you just soldered in. If you have an extra taillight harness like I did, you can get your blade connectors from there by depinning it like this, then wire it in to your new wire: https://i.imgur.com/p4g4ana.png Once you get the blade connector on your new wire, let's get it into the connector. First, though, we want to reset the catch on the blade connector so it doesn't back out: https://i.imgur.com/UvD3Eym.png Remove the connector like so, then you should be able to feed the pin through one of the open slots in the connector: https://i.imgur.com/kHn6iCD.png https://i.imgur.com/9kUBxd1.png We're finished with this harness. Go back and do the other side. Both should look something like this. If you didn't run your new wire through the sheathing, make sure it runs through the gap in the housing so it fits properly on the taillight housing: https://i.imgur.com/0tPoLzq.png Now we move to the back of the car with the harnesses. In order for the outer bulbs to act as the hazards/turn signals, we need to move a couple of terminals in the connectors on the car's end. At the taillight harness connectors, de-pin and move the white wire with the red stripe (or blue stripe, for the driver side) to the slot corresponding to the new pin you added at the tailights: https://i.imgur.com/jZojQvT.jpg So, as it stands now, the outer bulb will be the only one acting as the brake/hazard/turn signal, so we need a new brake light power source for the inner bulbs. We can get this at the 3rd brake light, connector E-02 specifically. This connector is just prior to the driver-side hatch strut: https://i.imgur.com/uuaup8P.png The wire we're looking for is green with white stripe. Tap 2 wires from this, one long enough to get to the passenger taillight and one long enough to get to the driver taillight. This is how I did mine, I challenge (i.e. highly suggest) you to do better, these wires are basically getting battery voltage when the brake switch is closed: https://i.imgur.com/yW0D6mG.png For those of you who know better, I did at least get some electrical tape on the exposed portions of wire. With the wires hooked up, get your female quick disconnects crimped to the other ends. You can test fit them like so, they should be snug: https://i.imgur.com/V2r6HVs.png Now, in your taillight connector, fit your new wire in the same spot where the white+blue/red striped wire USED to be (top-center). Make sure it sits as far forward as the rest of the female connectors, and doesn't come out too easily: https://i.imgur.com/VNRUfHk.png Now you can get everything hooked up to the taillights. All 3 bulbs should be the brake lights, but only the outers will be the turn signals/hazards. This is the finished product: https://i.imgur.com/1fs2aNr.mp4 If anybody's got suggestions for improvements to this, let me know.
  7. Unless you have some insider info about an upcoming listing (he has been going nuts lately with the parts offerings), he only has the fuel filter for the engine bay on his site right now. He does have a conversion kit for an in-tank fuel pump, though. Unless they're different for 83, the in-tank screen filter I can confirm Dad/Randy is still selling; I bought a couple off of him about a month ago. In case he ran out, the part number should be MB129890.
  8. Yeah I was kinda afraid it might have been convenient timing. The brake fluid does look old, I'll try flushing it to see if that helps. If it comes down to it, how difficult is it to regrease those solenoids? Didn't immediately see a write up on it.
  9. Putting this in AVM since this is modification-related, let me know if I got the wrong forum. So, some time back, I went the way of the LED with my taillights and my front turn signals. Also swapped out my hazard and turn signal flashers with no-load flashers so they would actually work. Not long after I did this, my ABS light came on and has been on ever since. I remember reading in a thread (that I can't find anymore) that the ABS computer will throw a fault if something is really off about the brake light circuit. I reviewed the wiring diagram, and I see this B-12 resistor inline just after the brake switch. Has anyone here who's swapped out the brake/taillight bulbs out with LEDs kept their ABS? What needs to be done to the brake lock-up circuit? Is it as simple as replacing this with a higher-ohm resistor?: I know I could just delete the ABS, but I'm kinda trying to keep things original for the moment, and I'd hate to toss out an otherwise functional ABS system. Any help is appreciated.
  10. Good idea, will do. I actually have a bunch of Toyota FIPG stashed away from my previous occupation.
  11. Yeah I was thinking about Amayama, but I was expecting to get my tank back long before the seals wold get here. Kinda wished I ordered it off the bat though, the tank repair took alot longer than I thought. I suppose we'll see how much life these gaskets form 1987 really have left.
  12. Regarding the stumble, I hear a bad vacuum advance on the distributor can do something similar, albeit I can't confirm. Regardless, if you're seeing soot on the firewall from the exhaust, you should probably replace the manifold gasket anyway. Exhaust studs on these are known for snapping/stripping out, so look into getting a Timesert kit. Before you pull the manifold off, try tightening all of the studs to see which ones are stripped out, if any. Regarding your rear wiper/defrost, that's most likely the switches in the hatch struts not closing due to hatch misalignment. If they're close enough, you can test this by switching the rear wiper on, then walking around back and bumping the hatch itself inward while it's closed to see if the wiper starts moving. 3rd brake light operation is also affected by this. Regarding the seatbelts, check your stop switches at the front and back of the track with a multimeter. I had half my interior torn apart trying to fix the exact same issue until I took my rear stop switch out and saw that one of the connector pins had backed out slightly. Snapped it back in and it's worked ever since.
  13. The data center apparently shut down, so I presume the hardware that hosted the site is gone/wiped
  14. Just tried ordering the pickup tube gasket, unsurprisingly it's NLA. Looks like I'm either reusing my current ones or begging Mikie to get some reproductions going. Thanks for the confirmation.
  15. Hey guys, I'm having a hard time trying to find the part numbers for the gas tank gaskets, the ones for the fuel sending unit and pickup tube plate. Going off of the parts locator, I think the one for the pickup tubes is MB129548, but the line art isn't great, and it doesn't seem to acknowledge the gasket for the level sensing unit. Anyone have them?
  16. That's like asking a bunch of drug addicts and dealers if you should continue to use meth If you got the space, money, and energy to make sure it doesn't sit around and rot away, go for it bro. 4k for a running driving flatty seems reasonable to me, but I'm pretty new to the SQ game. At the very least, try to be someone else's enabler and convince them to buy it.
  17. I ran into the same thing with Imgur links. Just paste the direct link to the image in your post, the new forum software should pick up on it. Don't need BBCode format or anything like that.
  18. Yeah, when you search for a specific page, it tries to find the copy closest to the timeframe you select. I'm not familiar with the process of actually backing up pages, but from what I can tell it's all manually done and might be limited in how much it can actually back up in any given run.
  19. I hear the powers that be are working on migrating some data from a newer backup of the site, but in the meantime, can we have this pinned somewhere for reference?: https://web.archive.org/web/20210411080304/http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?act=idx It's not perfect, but it's usable. It does have a quirk in that it sometimes likes to throw garbage in some of the URLs like this, leading to a "not found" error: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?s=9c66831185d10c0f69a50bcf8a12b725&showforum=54 If you delete everything between "index.php?" and "showforum=" or "showtopic=" and search agin, it works (if the thread/forum was actually crawled through at one point). I believe the persistence of the average StarQuest owner is willing to put up with a little URL manipulation for a bit . I apologize if this has already been suggested, but I haven't seen any posts about it so I'd thought I'd mention it.
  20. I think the most likely reason is due to exhaust heat compromising the seal between the taillight lens and the housing over time, causing condensation and leading to water buildup on the inside. It's the only explanation I can think of that would be consistent across all the environments this happens in. AFAIK the only way to permanently fix that is to re-seal the lens to the housing and possibly modify/relocate the tailpipe.
  21. I'm in the same boat. I think I had about 30 posts before the site went down.
  22. Hey, mine's reportedly from Snohomish. Long way from home. If you do end up replacing the fuel pump, it probably wouldn't hurt to take care of the screen filter that's on the end of the fuel pickup tube in the tank. Not sure where else to get it, but I just got a couple from Randy (goes by Dad here), he may have some more.
  23. Yeah I haven't got to that phase yet, I very much have my hands full with just this one since it's my first project and manual. Luckily I have (almost) all the tools for the job; used to be a Toyota technician for a little bit.
  24. I have been born again. Shame too, didn't even have have enough time to make a proper fool of myself. I've already received a bunch of help from some of you in a past life, but I thought I'd re-introduce. Picked up this 87 Conquest back in February this year off of a kid who only had it for 2 weeks. Has ~160k miles, GM MAF+MAF Translator, Delphi/Trilogy injectors, and a 12a with a 18g? upgraded compressor wheel. It appears to be an original Valencia Gold car, but it's been Maaco'd at one point, so all the gold you see is actually the 2nd coat on top of the original. No evidence of body damage though, and thankfully no rust. The car spent most of it's life in Washington until it made it's way down here in 2007. It actually still has stickers for NWStarquest.com on the windows, albeit appropriately faded by sun exposure. After doing some Wayback Machine stalking of those forums, I found it was owned by someone going by b_mart24, so if any of you run into him, let him know I got some questions. I've already done a bunch of stuff to it, even called the tow truck twice so far. Replaced the head with a NJV, had the steering box rebuilt by Redhead, rebuilt the turbo, and a bunch more with no sign of stopping now. Right now it's off the road as I'm getting the fuel tank cleaned out and relined. Once I get it back on the road I'm hoping to tackle the some running quirks it's got, maybe get some coilovers from MKS. Here are a couple of pics:
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