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Everything posted by GoldStar

  1. Welcome back. Enjoy your second chance, lol
  2. So it appears the PO of my quest actually did install the wrong actuator. I got another single-port actuator from Starquestparts, and it reaches both bolt holes fine. Here's a picture, the one on the right was the one that came with the car. I wonder if it's off of an Evo or a DSM
  3. I presume you mean http://www.mookeeh.com/index.html Mookeeh recently had a bushing for his short throw shifter on Ebay, but I'm not seeing it now. While MKS Motorsport doesn't have a separate listing for a shifter bushing, I bet if you hit up Mikie he'll hook you up with the one he uses for his STS kit. Not sure if it'll fit what you got, but it's worth a shot.
  4. One bolt has been holding it fine since I got the car. I was just curious if Mitsubishi really bothered to change the compressor housings between the years, or if I've just legitimately had the wrong actuator this whole time
  5. Got a quick question. I know the 88-89 wastegates have 3 port vs the 87 and earlier single port wastegates. My question is in regards to their bolt holes. Are they interchangable, or did the compressor housing change between 87 and 88-89? I have a single port wastegate on mine, but I can only attach it with one bolt hole on the compressor housing; it's too short to reach both.
  6. The Wayback Machine/Internet Archive has a bunch of those S.O.S manuals, here's the link to the one in the picture: https://web.archive.org/web/20160401031840/http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=902&sid=48f0787d061e7ca378e9ef28fc27748d Here's a link to the last capture they have of all the manuals: https://web.archive.org/web/20160819145300/http://starquest.i-x.net/viewforum.php?f=12&sid=087222b851334bf9ab9c27e27125aaa7
  7. Including my experience for reference. For those of you closer to the west coast, I went with RC Engineering: https://www.rcfuelinjection.com/. They did a fantastic job with my Delphi/Trilogy injectors.
  8. Thought I'd update this with the steps for us normal computer users, too: Log into/create an account here: https://imgur.com/ From your profile icon at the top, go to Images Drag and drop your images, or copy/paste them Finally, click the image(s) you just uploaded, then copy the Direct Link (the one containing the file extension) to paste here For videos, the steps as of writing are a bit different: From your profile icon/section at the top, go to your Posts Just like with images, click+drag your video onto the page, but you will get prompted to either keep or strip the audio. Click to keep the audio (if desired) to continue If you try to do this from the Images page, it will automatically remove the audio without giving you a prompt In my experience using Firefox on Windows, Imgur sometimes won't tell you when the video has finished uploading. The upload time varies based on the file size and your internet, obviously. If you aren't sure it has completed, give it a couple of minutes, then refresh the page to see if your video is there. Once it's done, open the video if it isn't already. If you kept the audio, there should be a speaker icon somewhere. Click that to unmute the video and verify it has audio Next, right-click the video, then click Copy Video Link to get the direct link Alternatively, you can go to you Images as outlined above to copy the Direct Link You should be able to paste the link into your post now like so, but as of writing, it will not be embedded: https://i.imgur.com/viR5zjF.mp4
  9. Are the URLs from your desktop ending with the file extension (.img, .png, .jpg, etcetera)? If not, it won't embed.
  10. You mean for embeds? I see those links form his post are hyperlinked now; did you manually hyperlink those, or just re-paste them?
  11. In case you hadn't already, Steve at https://starquestparts.net/ or Keith Cabral (Conquest Keith's Part Sales) on Facebook may be able to get these for you. If you really want, I do still have my old 87 knock box. I upgraded to an 88 box chasing a misfire issue and noticed no discernible difference after the install, so I assume it's good.
  12. First thing to try is a TPS/ISC reset outlined here, you actually set the idle RPM per the procedure: https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?/forums/forum/65-fuelecu-system/ If you do everything right, get your voltage readings in order, and it's still acting up, I would look for more vacuum leaks. I had a very similar issue on mine that ended up being a "bad" blow-off valve that would leak vacuum at idle, swapping it out with a good one fixed the problem.
  13. Another thing with these cars is the stock boost gauge is notoriously inaccurate. From what I understand, that gauge isn't directly reading intake pressure; rather, it's displaying what the ECU thinks the boost is, because the ECU doesn't have a way to directly read intake pressure either. Yet another common mod is to install a mechanical boost gauge, either replacing the one in the cluster or adding one somewhere in the interior. 10 lbs is stock for 88-89 cars (which have 3-port wastegates), and 7 lbs is stock for 87 and older (single port wastegates).
  14. No, but there are a couple of threaded holes below that you can use to mount it. For the ground strap, I just screwed it back where it was before I installed the 88 box.
  15. While I can't confirm, I hear that even the narrowband output from modern widebands will cause running issues because our ECUs can't keep up with them.
  16. Unless you're looking for OEM, Mookeeh has a set of rear strut housings on Ebay which allow you to use MR2 front shock inserts, assuming your's is a widebody.
  17. Spa Turbo USA makes one too, I run one and it works great for me: |https://spaturbousa.com/products/dodge-conquest-mitsubishi-starion-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator-vlrpf512
  18. In addition, and should be installed further downstream from the O2 sensor (I think I read somewhere >18 inches away the turbo hotside?). The O2 sensor is still needed for the ECU.
  19. Wideband air/fuel ratio sensor. Reads the same thing an O2 sensor does (how rich or lean the exhaust gas is pre-catalytic converter), but is much more accurate, and is connected to a separate gauge readout. Pretty much a requirement on these cars when doing any tuning or diagnosing issues such as this.
  20. It's been a minute, but I thought I'd revisit this. Hadn't gotten around to rebuilding the solenoids, but I did flush the hell out of the fluid when I swapped in Mikie's brake fluid reservoirs which unfortunately made no difference. However, I did 100% confirm this issue is caused by the LED brake lights by performing the following: Replaced the 6 LEDs in the taillight housings with the standard bulbs Foot on brake, turned key to ON and listened/heard the power-on self test of the ABS solenoids Started engine, then foot off brake No ABS light Swapped the bulbs with LEDs Performed steps #2 & #3 Got ABS light after roughly 10 seconds of run time Did the above a second time to triple-confirm it was the LEDs, so I'd like to try getting at that B-12 resistor. Has anyone tried replacing this resistor before? Can it be reached with the gauge pod off, or do I have to go through the bottom of the dash? This line art I found isn't great (page 8-36).
  21. It's the connector for the ISC motor, but the wire you're looking to jump is on the male connector to the harness side, not the female connector going to the motor. The wire colors change over this connector. Keep in mind, that step is meant to trick the ECU to think the tip switch is closed.
  22. Definitely do this. I'm running into the same issue (won't hold idle coming off throttle, super rich AFR when it does idle), and I recently figured out that my 1g DSM blow off valve is causing a vacuum leak. As soon as I plug the "horn" opening with my hand, it holds idle great and AFRs go right back to stoich.
  23. This definitely sounds multi-layered. Problems #2, #3, & #4 sound to me like one of your problems is a loose connection somewhere (slowing down the whole car forces the connection to contact/break). Considering this affects so many things in the interior, my guess is it's highly related to the fusible links/multi-purpose fuses. Regarding the turn signals, try putting on one turn signal, then wiggle the stalk to see if anything changes. Do your hazards work at all?
  24. He does not have one, so still searching for one in the DFW area.
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