GoldStar

I recall it's 8 total fasteners and a few connectors. Check out the full 88 service manual here: http://www.starquestgarage.com/

Following because I hadn't yet got around it. I tried swapping out the bulb with known-good LEDs, swapping polarity as needed, but I never got it to work.

Following; when I was swapping out all my bulbs to LEDs, I ran into the same thing on my 87

For me, I ended up personally reaching out to them a few times, but I eventually got the bushings (and some extras) I needed from them to finish the control arms: Here's a closer pic I took of the spares for reference; they're the larger of the two sizes I got: Unfortunately for me, I won't be able to test out these control arms for a long while. After pulling the pan to investigate an intermittent oil pressure issue, I found out why the previous owner used so much RTV on the pan gasket; my crankcase pressure was too high and blew out the seal the next time I got into boost. I decided at that point it's officially time to really start digging into my quest. Currently getting the pieces together to pull the engine & trans to rebuild them while I look for a shop that is willing to do a ground-up repaint on something of this vintage.

Yeah old fuel isn't going to affect fuel pressure. It's either that fuel pump dying or the fuel pressure regulator going out. I believe those Trilogy FPRs are adjustable. See if the adjusting nut at the bottom is loose; it could be "adjusting" itself when the engine is running.

Yes; provided you're not shorting the positive/negative cables to each other, the engine should stay running with the battery removed. A battery with no load should be reading ~12.6 volts. While running, a functional alternator should bring that to 13-14 volts. Not to make you feel old, but 2008 was 15 years ago; that's enough time for even a new alternator to fail, much less a remanufactured unit. You can still get new and reman units for the stock 75 amp capacity, but if you're one of those guys running aftermarket cooling fans (like me), this would probably be a good time to look into a higher-amp unit provided your wiring isn't too hacked up. I recently upgraded to a 90 amp alternator from a 1995 Hyundai Accent with the 1.5l (Denso 2116012) and it works great. Had to reuse and drill out my old alternator pulley to 17mm, but otherwise it was a bolt-on upgrade.

Close, my bet's on the torque tube splines themselves. Pull the torque tube and re-grease the splines. This is how I did mine. Didn't eliminate the clunk completely, but made a huge difference. Probably wouldn't hurt to do the torque tube bearing while you have it out, it's real easy:

Depends on where they are leaking. If the plastic is cracked, they're toast. Otherwise you should be able to have them cleaned. I've had a good experience with RC Fuel Injection/RC Engineering. I do have aftermarket Delphi injectors, but they got them all cleaned up just the same. If they end up being too far gone to be saved, madman Mikie is now offering replacement fuel injectors: https://mksmotorsport.com/product/g54b-replacement-fuel-injectors/

Welcome back. From what I gather, our turbos are still pretty standard, so any turbo shop should be able to handle them. I had a good experience with Forced Performance, but they are local to me. I'm sure there's a good shop closer to you. Also the pictures aren't working for me either. The forum re-launch greatly reduced the max file upload size. Check this out to use Imgur for image hosting:

If you took it to a shop to have that recharge done, they most likely used a luminescent compressor oil that should show up under a blacklight. Might be pretty difficult to see now, though.

Welcome back. Most have moved on to the Facebook groups, but I still prefer the forums as you can actually form a proper write-up here. Much more structure.

yeah I kinda wanted to try pulling the MKS bushings out of my current control arms, but I didn't want to immobilize my car on a hunch

Since I'm still waiting on the bushings, here's a couple of pics of the rear control arms out of the car: And here's what's preventing me from installing them:

Check out:

I bought a set of rear control arms from them through MKS as he started to support them around the time of his site re-design. I put in the order on 2/27, didn't receive the control arms themselves until 4/28. However, when I got them, one of the bushings (NDD makes their own) was missing the inner metal sleeve, and another mount on the control arm was completely missing it's bushing. I notified Mikie of this when I got them in, and he's followed up with them multiple times since, but I'm still waiting for NDD to send me the missing bushing/sleeves. The control arms themselves look high-quality to me (I'll see if I can get some pictures when I get time) but this exchange with them so far sucks. I'm really hoping it's just growing pains/unexpected demand.

If you just want a Mitsubishi-branded one, I feel like you should be able to get any mid-2000s blank key from a Mitsu dealer and have them cut it to match, unless even those don't have the diamonds on them anymore. Worst case scenario it'll have a little transponder inside, which won't affect anything.

Right, do you also have a separate O2 sensor on the downpipe?

To be clear, are you using your wideband's narrowband output as your ECU's O2 sensor input? I've heard people having problems doing this. Otherwise, it sounds to me like it's a vacuum leak somewhere. Kinda lines up with the A/C being on; more load on the engine=less vacuum to leak. I'd set the MAF-T to base and start spraying brake cleaner around the intake piping/vacuum lines while watching the wideband output to see if it spikes rich at any point. I had a similar issue that ended up being a 1G DSM recirc valve being set up like a blow-off valve; leaked vacuum when it got warm.

I did the same with my 19c, but because they are kinda local to me. I've heard good things about Kinugawa in the Facebook groups.

Can't speak for the manual belts, but MKS Motorsport has got a bunch of reproduction interior clips available: https://mksmotorsport.com/product-category/body/ Following for this, although once in a blue moon my lever actually works. Have you tried using the key?

I did the same, but I didn't run a jumper wire. I can't speak for the stock fans, but my two aftermarket fans coming on at the same time maxed out the capacity of the stock alternator. I've upgraded to a 90 amp alternator to compensate. Cools quickly, though, they aren't on for long.

Found it, page 7-17 where it shows how to check the thermosensors. In case you didn't know, the thermosensors are what actually provide the grounds for the fan motors. Looks like thermosensor 1 grounds at 185 degrees, and thermosensor 2 grounds at 212 degrees.

MPI is Multi-port Fuel Injection. All of these cars shipped with throttle-body injection (TBI). It's the style of air intake, and considering your wording on your OP, you have a "Magna" MPI intake that still needs to be modified for starquest heads. Do you have any pictures of it? It's the thing that has "ECI MULTI" on it. MPI is one of the best modifications you can do for longevity, and is a requirement when running higher (I believe 20+ lbs) of boost, as cylinders 2&3 will lean out at that point on TBI. There is quite a bit involved, but it's not as involved/expensive as a swap. Since it's already apart, now's the best time to do it. The banjo bolts are what's used to connect the oil lines to the cooler; they are special bolts that allow fluids to pass through. The original turbos have them as well for the coolant pipes. I believe Dad has the AC delete bracket on his site: http://www.enginemachineservice.com/ems/index.php

Welcome to the club. And echoing what Kev said; you're going to have a difficult time finding a good set of struts, whether SHP or non-SHP. Mitsubishi didn't put them in anything else IIRC. If they are really expensive ones like you stated in your other posts, they should be fully adjustable. I have a set of KSport coilovers which are, and I'm confident I could duplicate stock ride quality if I didn't lower mine so much. Since you already have the set, I highly recommend just adjusting them.

Can confirm they are cheap and easy to replace the seals on. However, if you use the kit that Kev linked above, in my experience this plate will not work; you'll need to re-use the one you currently have: