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Everything posted by GoldStar

  1. If you just want a Mitsubishi-branded one, I feel like you should be able to get any mid-2000s blank key from a Mitsu dealer and have them cut it to match, unless even those don't have the diamonds on them anymore. Worst case scenario it'll have a little transponder inside, which won't affect anything.
  2. Right, do you also have a separate O2 sensor on the downpipe?
  3. To be clear, are you using your wideband's narrowband output as your ECU's O2 sensor input? I've heard people having problems doing this. Otherwise, it sounds to me like it's a vacuum leak somewhere. Kinda lines up with the A/C being on; more load on the engine=less vacuum to leak. I'd set the MAF-T to base and start spraying brake cleaner around the intake piping/vacuum lines while watching the wideband output to see if it spikes rich at any point. I had a similar issue that ended up being a 1G DSM recirc valve being set up like a blow-off valve; leaked vacuum when it got warm.
  4. I did the same with my 19c, but because they are kinda local to me. I've heard good things about Kinugawa in the Facebook groups.
  5. Can't speak for the manual belts, but MKS Motorsport has got a bunch of reproduction interior clips available: https://mksmotorsport.com/product-category/body/ Following for this, although once in a blue moon my lever actually works. Have you tried using the key?
  6. I did the same, but I didn't run a jumper wire. I can't speak for the stock fans, but my two aftermarket fans coming on at the same time maxed out the capacity of the stock alternator. I've upgraded to a 90 amp alternator to compensate. Cools quickly, though, they aren't on for long.
  7. Found it, page 7-17 where it shows how to check the thermosensors. In case you didn't know, the thermosensors are what actually provide the grounds for the fan motors. Looks like thermosensor 1 grounds at 185 degrees, and thermosensor 2 grounds at 212 degrees.
  8. MPI is Multi-port Fuel Injection. All of these cars shipped with throttle-body injection (TBI). It's the style of air intake, and considering your wording on your OP, you have a "Magna" MPI intake that still needs to be modified for starquest heads. Do you have any pictures of it? It's the thing that has "ECI MULTI" on it. MPI is one of the best modifications you can do for longevity, and is a requirement when running higher (I believe 20+ lbs) of boost, as cylinders 2&3 will lean out at that point on TBI. There is quite a bit involved, but it's not as involved/expensive as a swap. Since it's already apart, now's the best time to do it. The banjo bolts are what's used to connect the oil lines to the cooler; they are special bolts that allow fluids to pass through. The original turbos have them as well for the coolant pipes. I believe Dad has the AC delete bracket on his site: http://www.enginemachineservice.com/ems/index.php
  9. Welcome to the club. And echoing what Kev said; you're going to have a difficult time finding a good set of struts, whether SHP or non-SHP. Mitsubishi didn't put them in anything else IIRC. If they are really expensive ones like you stated in your other posts, they should be fully adjustable. I have a set of KSport coilovers which are, and I'm confident I could duplicate stock ride quality if I didn't lower mine so much. Since you already have the set, I highly recommend just adjusting them.
  10. Can confirm they are cheap and easy to replace the seals on. However, if you use the kit that Kev linked above, in my experience this plate will not work; you'll need to re-use the one you currently have:
  11. Looking at the 88 repair manual, and Holley's install instructions, it looks like it should work with our gauge fine; our stock sender ranges from 1-117 ohms, which is well within the limits of Holley's sender.
  12. Just ran into an ad for one of these, wonder if they fit our tanks without modification https://www.holley.com/products/gauges_and_gauge_accessories/gauge_accessories_and_harnesses/parts/19-250
  13. I believe I had the same trouble finding the "Standard VC269", so I ended up getting the following part from O'Reilly's: "Import Direct Ignition Distributor Vacuum Advance Control - 33-0156" I haven't dyno-tested my car so I'm not sure if I'm losing power over the VC269, but it sure beats the non-functional vacuum advance I had previously.
  14. Yeah it seems about 85-90% of these are on the east coast now
  15. It seems to fit fine from what little I played with it. I haven't done another alignment yet, so we'll truly see then.
  16. Thought I'd post about this. Recently I had a shop try to do an alignment on my quest. Unfortunately, in an effort to fix the toe in the back, the monkeys ended up forcing the bolt over the edges of the rear subframe, bending the hell out of the cam bolt. They bent/ground it so bad I couldn't save it with a hammer. To replace it, I tried calling Mitsu dealers and even hitting up Amayama; no dice. At this point, I decided to get creative to see if I could find something off of another car that could fit. Lo and behold, I did find something. Another vintage Mitsubishi, you may ask? Perhaps some obscure 90's Hyundai whose parts availability is also on borrowed time? Nope, a current generation (specifically 2020) Toyota Rav4 AWD. "Toe adjustment cam sub-assembly" part number 48409-06010: "Camber adjustment cam" part number 48198-07010: Now obviously the little line marks on the cams don't match up to the originals, but anyone performing an alignment in the new millennia is using an alignment rack that spits out fancy numbers in real time, so they aren't needed anyway. For the record, the reason I chose the Rav4 AWD is because one of my coworkers had one I could match up the bolt to. If the bolt is actually different on the non-AWD models, I'm sure it'll fit fine as well.
  17. I'm pretty sure I used either wheel bearing grease or Lucas red'n'tacky. Either should work just fine
  18. Yeah I think when I did mine, the part that really made a huge difference I think was lubing the wiper pivots. Ever since, my wipers have been flawless. Even made a noticeable difference in the volt meter.
  19. I ended up going with KSports because I couldn't find much of anything for the rears struts. I'm sure if I waited long enough I would have found what I needed by scouring Ebay, but since my fronts were on borrowed time as well, I elected to go the aftermarket route to have a completely fresh setup that wouldn't be piecemeal. If I didn't lower mine, I'm confident I could set it up to ride like stock, or at least really close. I'm not sure OEM-grade replacements are feasible anymore; the suspension setup for our cars is pretty bespoke, and Mitsubishi seems to have long forgot it's history. If it helps, it looks like Steve at https://starquestparts.net/ has a set of welded D2 coilovers ready to go in the Undercarriage section of his site right now.
  20. GoldStar


    CX Racing still offers downpipes for our cars. Otherwise, Steve at https://starquestparts.net/ might have a hollowed out stock downpipe.
  21. I lost the pictures I took when I did mine, and it's been a minute since, so I forgot specifically which part it is, but there's a pivot at each of the wiper arms that also should be lubed (I believe I used wheel bearing grease). It's not the linkage joints, but the base of the stud that the wiper arm bolts to:
  22. I've been told the Melling NA oil pumps work good, planning to run one when I can finally get around to my rebuild. Still available on Rock Auto, just have to check under the Ram 50/Mighty Max
  23. As a heads up, I didn't see them doing anything regarding a steering coupler, but it's possible I missed it
  24. I haven't seen anything specific about it in the FB groups I'm in, so I'm thinking the "group buy" is just those who purchase it from the site now. Unrelated to reply, here are some new pics they have of the modular steering rack bracket setup they are apparently offering now for the front subframe. They say it's to allow for swapping between racks without buying the whole subframe again. https://scontent-dfw5-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/326691813_1618550551951633_8373206597778901786_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=PY6eSZLdYZoAX8Gxtsy&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-2.xx&oh=00_AfDvsU_zU0IEWBTJFnbLa2EvtGuv09jqeynkaQRGd4rPZQ&oe=63D01100 https://scontent-dfw5-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/326455839_665930638603972_1724720354428363108_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=jnZJiGS86vkAX9F7-1U&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-2.xx&oh=00_AfAHzSo42yHc4eXQJYNTXE-qQPtXTJPq2EI_66vlg7upag&oe=63D033A0 For those who may be concerned, reportedly there are gussets for reinforcement where the rack brackets meet the subframe, these pics are for the mock up that was being worked on.
  25. Just wanted to update this what I found. I picked up a set of front caliper slide pin boots at O'Reilly's, and they seem to do the job fine for the rears. I did this a few hundred miles ago, even went through an autocross event, and I've seen no issues with them. The little rubber plugs aren't used here:
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