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GoldStar

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Everything posted by GoldStar

  1. Wow, he got that one in by the skin of his teeth. I wonder if he finally got replacements for those welders he says he lost during the move.
  2. Shame, was really hoping this guy would turn it around. Guess I'll have to go local for my rack swap.
  3. There's so many people in the Facebook groups, but this place is a wealth of information with write-ups that can actually be found here with relative ease. I've seen a couple guys try to do write-ups in the Facebook groups, but they immediately get lost in all the chatter, so people don't know they exist unless they know exactly what to search for. Want to do my part to keep this place alive, so once I gather the funds, I'm planning to document my restore here. The upshot to the 2015 crash is that these cars stopped being produced in the 80s lol.
  4. I'd kill to rebuild mine to that level for that much. Right now, with the paint/engine/trans work I'm planning on, I'm estimating around $15k, not including the cost of the car.
  5. For the front caster, the torque arm doesn't have enough threads to even it out?
  6. Yes the file size limit here is very small, probably to save on server costs. Imgur AFAIK doesn't have a file size limit, so you can upload there and simply put the link here.
  7. Welcome. Yeah see that thread regarding NDD; I was able to (eventually) get a complete set of control arms out of them, but the process was borderline teeth-pulling. I really hope they get their stuff together, because I really want that front subframe for a rack conversion. For posting pics, check out this thread:
  8. I second the BOV; I had a very similar issue with a non-crushed DSM BOV, it wasn't holding vacuum at idle. I confirmed it by blocking the opening "horn" with my hand and watching the engine idle noticeably smoother. My AFR gauge also jumped from 10:1 to around 12-13:1. Also FWIW I run my BOV off of a port coming off of the intake crossover pipe, it's never been the source of problems for me.
  9. I think the 500 KB limit is to save on server costs. Also, I guess the forum software only supports embedding links from certain image hosts. If you're willing, I do have this write up for using Imgur:
  10. The patron saint of Starquests, Mikie, has both front and rear polyurethane replacements on his site: https://mksmotorsport.com/ Dad also appears to have standard set on his site as well: https://www.enginemachineservice.com/ems/parts/conquest/steeringsuspension.php
  11. For me, I ended up personally reaching out to them a few times, but I eventually got the bushings (and some extras) I needed from them to finish the control arms: Here's a closer pic I took of the spares for reference; they're the larger of the two sizes I got: Unfortunately for me, I won't be able to test out these control arms for a long while. After pulling the pan to investigate an intermittent oil pressure issue, I found out why the previous owner used so much RTV on the pan gasket; my crankcase pressure was too high and blew out the seal the next time I got into boost. I decided at that point it's officially time to really start digging into my quest. Currently getting the pieces together to pull the engine & trans to rebuild them while I look for a shop that is willing to do a ground-up repaint on something of this vintage.
  12. Yeah old fuel isn't going to affect fuel pressure. It's either that fuel pump dying or the fuel pressure regulator going out. I believe those Trilogy FPRs are adjustable. See if the adjusting nut at the bottom is loose; it could be "adjusting" itself when the engine is running.
  13. Yes; provided you're not shorting the positive/negative cables to each other, the engine should stay running with the battery removed. A battery with no load should be reading ~12.6 volts. While running, a functional alternator should bring that to 13-14 volts. Not to make you feel old, but 2008 was 15 years ago; that's enough time for even a new alternator to fail, much less a remanufactured unit. You can still get new and reman units for the stock 75 amp capacity, but if you're one of those guys running aftermarket cooling fans (like me), this would probably be a good time to look into a higher-amp unit provided your wiring isn't too hacked up. I recently upgraded to a 90 amp alternator from a 1995 Hyundai Accent with the 1.5l (Denso 2116012) and it works great. Had to reuse and drill out my old alternator pulley to 17mm, but otherwise it was a bolt-on upgrade.
  14. Close, my bet's on the torque tube splines themselves. Pull the torque tube and re-grease the splines. This is how I did mine. Didn't eliminate the clunk completely, but made a huge difference. Probably wouldn't hurt to do the torque tube bearing while you have it out, it's real easy:
  15. Depends on where they are leaking. If the plastic is cracked, they're toast. Otherwise you should be able to have them cleaned. I've had a good experience with RC Fuel Injection/RC Engineering. I do have aftermarket Delphi injectors, but they got them all cleaned up just the same. If they end up being too far gone to be saved, madman Mikie is now offering replacement fuel injectors: https://mksmotorsport.com/product/g54b-replacement-fuel-injectors/
  16. Welcome back. From what I gather, our turbos are still pretty standard, so any turbo shop should be able to handle them. I had a good experience with Forced Performance, but they are local to me. I'm sure there's a good shop closer to you. Also the pictures aren't working for me either. The forum re-launch greatly reduced the max file upload size. Check this out to use Imgur for image hosting:
  17. If you took it to a shop to have that recharge done, they most likely used a luminescent compressor oil that should show up under a blacklight. Might be pretty difficult to see now, though.
  18. Welcome back. Most have moved on to the Facebook groups, but I still prefer the forums as you can actually form a proper write-up here. Much more structure.
  19. yeah I kinda wanted to try pulling the MKS bushings out of my current control arms, but I didn't want to immobilize my car on a hunch
  20. Since I'm still waiting on the bushings, here's a couple of pics of the rear control arms out of the car: And here's what's preventing me from installing them:
  21. I bought a set of rear control arms from them through MKS as he started to support them around the time of his site re-design. I put in the order on 2/27, didn't receive the control arms themselves until 4/28. However, when I got them, one of the bushings (NDD makes their own) was missing the inner metal sleeve, and another mount on the control arm was completely missing it's bushing. I notified Mikie of this when I got them in, and he's followed up with them multiple times since, but I'm still waiting for NDD to send me the missing bushing/sleeves. The control arms themselves look high-quality to me (I'll see if I can get some pictures when I get time) but this exchange with them so far sucks. I'm really hoping it's just growing pains/unexpected demand.
  22. If you just want a Mitsubishi-branded one, I feel like you should be able to get any mid-2000s blank key from a Mitsu dealer and have them cut it to match, unless even those don't have the diamonds on them anymore. Worst case scenario it'll have a little transponder inside, which won't affect anything.
  23. Right, do you also have a separate O2 sensor on the downpipe?
  24. To be clear, are you using your wideband's narrowband output as your ECU's O2 sensor input? I've heard people having problems doing this. Otherwise, it sounds to me like it's a vacuum leak somewhere. Kinda lines up with the A/C being on; more load on the engine=less vacuum to leak. I'd set the MAF-T to base and start spraying brake cleaner around the intake piping/vacuum lines while watching the wideband output to see if it spikes rich at any point. I had a similar issue that ended up being a 1G DSM recirc valve being set up like a blow-off valve; leaked vacuum when it got warm.
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