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  1. There is a device called an ECI Checker that plugs into multiple parts of the ECU/Harness, hard to find now. Personally, I don't see it being too useful here. The car has a primitive code reader in the glove box, attach a current tester to some prongs in the top of it, and it'll output dashes that correspond to error codes. If you think it's leaning out, hook an AFR gauge to it. Vacuum advance is a diaphragm and when a hole is made in it, it's gone. Fuel pumps also like to go bad. I currently am fighting something in the same vein, but its likely to be a fuel injector. Lot of that stuff is still available thankfully.
  2. I bought it on rockauto. They were a PAIN to install. but they went on eventually.
  3. Final update for the thread, pitman seal was a week late, plus I got sick, but the steering is so much better now. TLDR: The old coupler looked ok when we took it off but I think it made a ton of difference. The idler arm was also loose, put on new bushings and a grease fitting. Pitman arm seal developed a leak and that was fixed as well. Now it just needs an alignment.
  4. We were finally able to get it together. Got the wrong seal, needed the pitman seal. Waiting another week for rockauto now.
  5. Ok, so what seems to have happened is the worm gear seal opened up so it was about empty 😂 that'll do it! Going to add a new seal to that, and need to replace the idler arm, there's a good amount of play in that too. The "bushing replacement kit" from rockauto isn't cooperating so I might just get a complete one from mitsu direct parts?
  6. Next time I can work on it is this Friday, so I will do this and update the result then. Probably needs a flush anyways. This could also be it. I only bought the car last August, and this was the first time I ran it since storing it in November. Haven't had this issue before, however.
  7. So I bought my car with what I thought was only some somewhat sloppy steering and what I thought was a small oil leak. Long story short, today we determined the coupler wasn't the issue, but installed the MKS one anyways, but we think the Steering box is also leaking. Regardless of that though, when we took it out for a test drive, it was very hard to move the wheel more than about 15 degrees. It almost felt locked up. Nothing has changed except for the installation of the coupler. Any ideas what that could be? Or is this normal?
  8. I haven't driven anything older than a Y2K 3.5 Chrysler block, but I think it's running very well, all things considered. One other thing is that I can smell exhaust fumes only when the boost kicks in, but one of the receipts I got with the car was that the exhaust manifold studs were already done with ARPs around 2005. That is also something I need to figure out. My main issue like I said is the steering, it's unnerving when I'm turning onto a highway exit ramp and for a 1/4 second the wheel doesn't move. I fixed most of the issue with non-dryrotted sticky tires but that steering rack still needs to come out.
  9. Yeah it would make the most fiscal sense to keep it stock, but I just want do drive it! To be honest though those goals are way too lofty, but I definitely want it to have a little more heft than it has. I've done the valve cover as soon as I parked it for the winter. I haven't started it yet but I'm pretty sure it wasn't that, but the engine was pretty dirty everywhere. Thanks for that tip on the steering column!
  10. Hello all, I've made a few question and request posts here and on the FB groups for a few months now, but here's my introduction! I'm Jake, and I bought a black 1987 Conquest in August from a guy local to me. Upstate NY. About 83000 miles, absolute survivor quality: garaged, no rust, never used in snow, only slight sun bake. Only issues right now are the Driver's auto-belt, the radio cassette, rear wiper, some fog light issues, AC, I need to replace the steering coupler (have the part already, just need to do it), and a small oil leak that I can't quite pinpoint (I assume it's the backside of the head gasket around the semicircle). This is my first "classic car" and I've always loved how this car looks. My dad has a few classic cars so I know the to-do's. My initial goal for the car is to get everything working as it should again, auto-seatbelts included. My eventual goal for the car might not be feasible, but what I want to do is add as much power while looking stock. If you've ever heard of the F.A.S.T. Drag Racing series, they're basically Factory-Appearing-Stock muscle cars, but will pull crazy times on skinny bias-plys. I don't know how possible that is with this car. Internals are one thing and will go as far as my pockets can be emptied, but, for example, I'm not sure if I can upgrade my stock turbo to be more powerful without physically installing a bigger one, or if I put some sort of hardline pipe inside my intake hose, would that induse less turbulence? I don't know a ton about turbo setups, especially CARB compliant systems from the 80s. Really I just want as close to 300hp out of it while making it look stock. I'm also very inexperienced when it comes to mechanic skills, so I've definitely bitten off more than I can chew, but I don't need this quest checked off for awhile haha. I will add pictures later because all of them are bigger than what the site will allow me to post, but I would love any and all suggestions on anything that could be useful! Thank you!
  11. All good, no rush as it's in storage all winter. Feel free to message me whenever it's good to go!
  12. Broke my tilt steering button tab thing for an '87, looking for a replacement
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