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BOHO and a Magna


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It still smokes badly and breaks up....I think i messed the head gasket or something up....I'm going to work on pulling it anyways just to be sure. It does idle much better now that its not 25 degrees advanced....Its mainly white smoke with some black....the white smoke at idle is what bothers me...Somthing is wrong...Turbo has almost Zero shaft play so i don't think its that...its not blue smoke by any means....Doesn't smell like coolant but who knows...The car never overheated or anything so a Crack anywhere would def. be a surprise but I'm sure its something catastrophic..just because it's me.....I'll let yall know and post pics as soon as I find something out. I think old mister Ainsworth is going to come by tomorrow and give me some moral support.
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Well...I got the head off....It is a Ajusa steel shim so I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Lots of oil everywhere...hard to tell if anything is wrong or not...I know one thing...the valves look horrible....The motor wasn't quite on tdc because I had some trouble getting the cam bolt out......Just looking at the pics..don't want anyone to freak out. I don't see any cracks anywhere..head or block. Just fluids everywhere.

 

http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/6263/41544910.jpg

 

http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/9497/91477006.jpg

 

http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/9973/68753922.jpg

 

http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/3581/88263772.jpg

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The first pics are on top on the gasket...These is underneath....definatly oil leaking into the cylinder if you ask me...

 

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/8995/83250904.jpg

 

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/6131/10088266.jpg

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braden, im not sure if you had a oil leak going on in there or not but just to rule it out, i recomend some new valve stem seals. they are pretty cheap and not all that bad to put in. might be a cheap insurance. one of the occasions of blown head gaskets i had a while back, i found i had a random vlave seal failure. it was kinda shreadded and just hanging on the valve stem itself and wasnt doing crap. i had oil on that valve but it wasnt that bad and i thought the smoke was from the blown head gasket.
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Well...Smoke is almost entirly gone now...but....Still have same running issues. Its clearly leaning out under accel on the Wideband. I'm trying to figure it out but still kinda lost. I wish someone in this town actually knew how to tune stuff.....I'm not sure If i need to add accel enrichments or add VE?? Anyone know where I should start...?
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Braden,im in no way a ''tuner'' but do you think you might need to recal.your wideband sensor after all that oil.it might be giving an inaccurate reading.i realize its the same as before but its possible.just throwing it out there.
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I would start out with the base maps people have posted here. that by itself should be good enough for it to run half decent then go from there...sounds like the accel enrichment bins if it messes up as soon as it see's boost... i would start at like 1.0 on the first box, that 15.0 rate v/s value to like 6.0 and fill it in gradualy inbeween "that is on the enrichment page" get it idleing smooth with the ve before you do anything else then go after the enrichment's...tune your light throttle response with the rate 2 v/s (those setting are like the powervalve of a carburator) and they are quite tricky to get all of them set and synconized to be perfect. If the numbers are too great it will break up terrible and never gain rmps the whole time studdering as soon as boost comes in...~Just a thought :wacko:
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Well, It seems to be accurate at this point. I'm not even sure how to "recalibrate" one. My megatune and the gauge both read the same. The running conditions make sense with the readings...the stumbling feels like a lean condition. I'm just not sure where to go with it.
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Maxboost,

 

I'm using almost the exact same tune as psu_crash has listed under the settings thread. Same required fuel, ve table, and accel enrichments. I know 2 motors are never going to be exactly the same but we have damn near the same equip. Timing is correct now, New Ajusa HG...I think I'm going to try to get one of my buddies to ride with me and try to add fuel in accel areas while I'm driving. Thanks for the replys guys...

 

Braden

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braden, i dont have my laptop or the car with me, but my ve table might work pretty well for you. i used the ve table from a map i got from jonboy quite some time ago. i did have to richen it up quite a bit as he had larger injectors than i do but it turned out all right and is decently close. i can get it to you tommorow.

untill then open up the ve table and i think you use tools in the ve table window and then it will allow you to shift or ....... something else by 1 or 2 or whatever number you put in. i kept shifting the entire table by 1 till i got to a point where i was driving around in the ballpark under light loads at about 13.5 to 14ish then i came back and manually upped and downed the higher up points, above 0 psi to close in on the ballpark. its a complain but its the only way i knew to do it.

did you have trouble getting your wideband to read accurately in megatune? and which wideband do you have. my aem uego shows to be accurate but i cant get it to show up accurately in megatune. it swings wildly from about 10afr to whatever the afr really is and does it very rapidly. doesnt seem to be screwing up ms but i wish it was a little more accurate.

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Well...I don't know. I made some changes and went for a drive about 3 minutes after I started the car. It ran great..no sputters a little overly rich but boosted to about 5 psi with no problems. the Warmer the car got the worse it got. I thought this could be ASE still kicking in and not running off the true tune but I don't think its the case. I also checked the oil again since its first drive after HG day. Little milk on the dipstick and under the cap was coated. I can clean off didpstick re stab and it will be clean...It doesn't seem to be "all of the oil. If I clean the cap and the motor is hot. Steam will build up under cap after a short while...like condensation...I know my surfaces were clean and I torqued the head to specs and JAinsworth was there to supervise. It might just be the running the car hot/rain/somtimes 30 degrees sometimes 60..all over the place weahter. I'm not sure yet.

 

Back to the "tune"...I only drove (stop and go in my neighborhood...30mph max)for about 7-8 minutes. After a small accel and back to my sputtering/ leaning out on the wideband I fouled #1 plug. Limped it back home and pulled all Plugs.#1 soaked with gas but 2-4 all looked the same. typical lean plugs that were mostly cream/black colored...Not white build up or anything but needs more fuel..I don't understand how I could lose one with too much gas and be lean on the others. I was thinking about getting new cap and rotor..Wires are new...But I'm AGAIN....not sure if this is possibly an intermittent spark issue along with poor tuning or just in my tune.

 

Anyone have any more words of wisdom about anything?

 

Kyle, When the car was cold it acceled fine both quickly and easing on throttle. It's actually about the same no matter what I do so Think I just need some more fuel in the VE map. I already upped my req. fuel to 6.9 from 5.8 I had to lower the idle VE #'s but the top end still was reading lean.

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braden, im thinking make your idle afrs about 13-13.5 and then let it be a touch rich on the next bin of the ve table. then fairly rich after that, especially in the areas where load is achieved and the car will want the most gas due to working to get the car moving. your req fuel sounds a hair low to me. i was supposed to be at like 7.8 or so with the 550cc inj. but i found things work better at like 8.1 or 8.2. i will be at my shop tommorow afternoon, how about call me and remind me to get the msq out of my ecu.
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kind of out of left field but since they jump around, try unhooking the wideband from megasquirt. not just turning it off but rather cut the wire. mine did some stupid crap while connected to ms. took it away and it got much better. may not be worth anything but cant hurt to try.
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Thats what I'm shooting for but they jump around...anything in the 13's I would be happy with. I have 750cc in my car. I'm pretty sure its supposed to be like 6.5...I'll try to look it up.

I'm also running 75lb injectors. your req fuel should be 5.4

 

req fuel should be something you set once then never touch again.

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I've got EGO turned off at this point so It can't make any corrections anyways.

 

 

nope, even with all of the corrections off, mine would still make the car act stupid as long as it was physically wired to ms. disconnect the wire and it was night and day. seems to be still a little something going on.

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First off, you're shooting in the dark if you aren't logging and reviewing, then posting up the logs here for all to see.

 

Sounds to me like your map sensor is either faulty or not wired/soldered in correctly, or a connection is bad. My map sensor signal wire came loose where I had soldered it to the harness, and it would randomly hit some kind of fuel cut. I had no idea where to go, until I logged boost, and it was going to like 30-35psi, and I had a redundant boost cut setup with the AEM cutting boost at 19psi, and the boost controller cutting it at 22 or something, so there was no way it was getting to 30. But there were strange spikes in the graph, which told me something was wrong with the map sensor. I tugged on the wires, found the loose one, repaired it and the car was back to it's normal self.

 

Datalog. Do it. You can get into boost with way too much fuel, not enough, and the same goes for timing. You have a wide range to work with, but if it's cutting out or stumbling, it's probably an electrical issue, not mechanical, that is unless you have a bad jet valve, or you screwed up the water passages on the magna and it's leaking into the intake, but I doubt that, and you don't have jet valves.

 

I also had an injector clip fall off. The first time, it blew my engine - cracked the block, broke ring lands and cost me thousands. The second time, on the dyno with the new forged motor. Both times it wouldn't get into boost and sounded like a WRX, seriously.

 

Datalog.

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I'm just now reading through your build-up. In the pics you posted of the head and pistons, to me it looked like #4 combustion chamber is a little cleaner than the rest and #4 piston looks cleaner too. This can be a sign of coolant getting into the cylinder. It may just be the way the pics look.

 

Have you done a coolant system pressure test?

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Law,

 

I have not but I didn't have a leak on #4 My magna did not have a modded coolant port to match the head. I couldn't get it to seal and I did have a small leak. But I have had that fixed. I probably still need to do it I obviously could still have a problem though. I think I got a hold of a laptop that will datalog today. :) I'm pretty excited...Don't know what I'm doing but It seems simple enough. I will post up as soon as I know something. Or don't know something for that matter.

 

Braden

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