maxboost87

Sounds to me like it's the voltage correction table in the haltech tune, along with an inconsisent alt. output. Injectors do different things with different voltages feeding them. Haltech varies the pulswidth accordingly as other power draws happen. I would definitly do the alternator and then see how it behaves. If problems persist we will modify your tune. Get a datalog of when the problem occurs and i should be able to figure it out. ~Lee

Joe, explain the issues with hesitation and stalling. Is there any way you can e-mail me the tune thats in the car now? I will look it over and maybe we will try a few things. How come they stopped tuning at 18psi? I know theres more power hiding in there;) What did torque numbers look like?

Congratulations to us both! I too just started work a few weeks ago at a performance shop called Modern Muscle Performance in Martinsville, VA. We deal with all the new Mopars with Hemi's. My dream job finally came 2 hours away from my home, which i am in the process of moving my stuff and relocating. I am soo excited about this, still can't beleive it. We have a 5-axis cnc for porting heads ect, CNC lathe, mill, a dyno... you name it! The owner has been doing this on his own for almost a year getting backed up because he lost his help and been waiting for the right guy to help him run it while he does the full time job of taking phone calls. Got a 70 challenger mod/resto/build with a new 6.4L Hemi comming up soon and also a 2011 Challenger for Mopar Muscle Magazine getting engine work done in about a month. Can't wait! I hope it works out for us and I imagine you love doing this stuff as much as i do! Good Luck,

www.boostedautodesign.com we have a few different styles. All you need is a ecu. They are as easy to install as it gets. Use e-mail link there to contact. ~Lee

No other cars compare to the aggressive look of the conquest. They got the meanest look from no matter what angle. My favorite is through a rear view mirror. So intimidating... maybe that's why it seems EVERYBODY i get behind wants to slow down below the speed limit. am i the only one who has this problem? Truth is, i owe this car alot for teaching me so much about mechanics/ and all the stuff i do. If my dad hadn't of giving it to me when i was 13 i wouldn't be the same person today. Over 10 years later i still have the same car, we been through alot........ it must be love

Don't forget the steel brackets under the exhaust manifold to remove the head,and have fun with unbolting the turbo Went through this a while back. Guy i bought it from said it was the head gasket"bone stock engine with a crappy homemade boost controller", turned out being 3 broken ringlands AND, BHG. Was going to be a simple head gasket fix and turned out to be a full out engine build with megasquirt and custom intake. My MKIII still under construction http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/193/1001841v.jpg http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7581/1001840d.jpg http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/3664/1002102i.jpg Now finished with bigger turbo and ex. WG Yes i have lots of fun with the 7m, there very powerful platforms with little modification I have a spare that is going into a 280z this winter...

The bottom ends are very stout in those cars. 300-350 would be a safe assumption. I think you really have to struggle to make more power than that with the L28. If you are trying to make more power than stock, megasquirt or some sort of tunable ecu is a must

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3984Q2em1555Q2el2649QQitemZ170686024328QQsspagenameZSTRKQ3aMESELXQ3aIT

Its well below the add mark when cold. I checked this once, It may return to the pan a little faster once the oil gets hot, but i still want to think there is at least as quart somewhere else other than the pan at all times.

Progress so far. Custom intake will keep throttle body in stock location so no need to relocate battery or hack into radiator support for piping. Fabricated oil pan from .090" 6061 aluminum will keep oil in the sump. Fidanza flywheel, centerforce 6-puck clutch for grip. Once intake is finished, plumbing fuel/oil system and wiring of Haltech ecu begins. More updates coming soon.

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/8669/0000572.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/2938/0000571.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/3231/0000568.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/614/0000567.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/9995/0000560.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/6501/0000565.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/4063/0000563.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/4236/0000562.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/7913/0000564j.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Here some pictures, as requested. No considerable warping of the pan, may be off - .065" over entire length. Nothing mounting can't take care of. It is a trick, and sequence to welding things like this to reduce warping. If your not careful it will trn into a see-saw real quick so it take alot of experience to counter-act. And yes, a AN fitting can be welded for turbo drain for an extra $20 http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9029/panbottom.jpg http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/8687/panfront.jpg http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/5724/panside.jpg

Built from 6061 Aluminum, TIG welded. Holds 1 qt over stock. Re-designed sump area to keep oil where its supposed to be. Should be able to install with-out removing the engine. Retains stock ground clearance, and dipsitck. About time one of these is available for our cars! $300 + shipping. I will be building more of these for those who are interested. http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/3473/0000559d.jpg

The media is stainless steel, the same as the high dollar name brand units cost. No baffle needed, the inlet end "valve cover" extrudes to the center giving the whole length of cartridge to get filtered. I build different variations of this all the time for different cars and they works great.

This is a custom aluminum air/oil separator that will bolt on directly to replace the old gunked up one. Has slightly larger hose connections that match the valve cover port and larger suction side to pull more volume out of the engine. Packed with the best separating media to keep oil out of your intake. We have a few of these available. $50 + shipping http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/3186/catchcan.jpg

Need more info on your spark set-up. You running a edis? Are all your gauges reading correct on the megatune? Sounds like the plug wires are possibly mixed up if its loading up and then a backfire...

Did you determine what caused this? Might wanna check the throttle shaft screws. I have seen the shafts snap in half letting a screw fall out.

Take everything out and start by putting back one thing at a time, that the engine needs to run. You won't have much left by that time other than abs, power steering... ect. You need to have a wiring diagram for the car, that will tell you what things under the hood are for so you can figure out if you are going to need them or not. Why did you paint it? That thing was purrrdy Do you have any pictures of it before?

Sounds like the spark plug could be introducing noise into the system. Are you using a resistor type plug? Is there a resistor inside the spark plug boot? That would soak up a lot of noise coming from that yzf coil"if that is the one you are using"

Doesn't fit too well. i am going rack and pinion. Also making a new cross member because the oil pan belly sits on top of ours. your going to spend alot on a tranny if you want to go 5-speed. Mines getting mated to a r154 with a custom bell housing soon as i get the time. very good engine, i chose it because of the 6-bolt main design. I plan on putting twin turbo on this so it needs to be strong. http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/74/mpi026.jpg

When i got my quest to do mpi on it had been sitting for 13 years with a 1/4 tank of gas. I drained it out, smelled horrible. took the 2 caps off the top and did what i could with the pressure washer and watched chunks come out. Thought i had done a good job cleaning it and it ran great for a few weeks then pump started winiing and losing fuel pressure"i have guage in the car" pulled the sock filter out...stopped up. The new gas had loosened up the rust and the car would only run a few seconds before it got clogged again. i ended up draining the tank and washing then cutting it open to clean by hand. That is the only way you will be able to get it all out because there are so many baffles inside. Another thing you can tryis getting rid of the sock filter and using an inline metal can style filter from napa before the pump "easier to clean". As far as the starting and dying watch the fuel pressure on the guage and see if it started fluttering while it is running to see if that is the problem. Also read the megasquirt manual and learn about the ecu and how to set it up for your engine. If things are not set right on there it may start but will not stay running. Check out the base maps under this forum and compare the contants page and the enrichments page. Since it has not run long enough to warm up, the ecu is still in the warmup enrichment. Read through this Megamanual That will help you get it running once you get the fuel problem figured out.

What i meant was 2 "sets" of cylinders "8"...i didn't catch that. 2 cylinders of volume is about the size of 1-1/2 cans of soda, close to the size of the magna plenum..not much. I want to get as close to twice the engine displacement without running into space constraints or looking goofy. If you think about it that takes alot of space, imagine 2-1/2 two liter bottles all put together. We need to decide which cam we are going to use. I am afraid you won't be happy with that 292. it is going to be a slug up till -4500+rpm. Turbo engines like smaller cams unless it is a drag car never dropping below a given rpm. To do it right i need to know the cam before i can work on a true runner design that will compliment the engine. (Its possible to add up to 10psi of boost pressure to an opening intake valve from the closing of another, at the rpm sweet spot, this is known as 110% volumetric efficiency) Not saying we are going to achieve that much VE but that is a good goal to work towards. ~Lee

Update: Tank is dropped, getting ready to install SS -6 fuel line from pump to engine bay as soon as it comes in the mail. Intake flange is being cut, and waiting on materials for the runners. Pics will come with the install of fuel system within a few days. I will keep you posted on here. Also need to troubleshoot the sending unit, to figure the deal with that while the tank is down. ~Lee

It's real good piping for the price. I got some of the same stuff from cx "2 1/4 ID", measures 3mm thick "close to a 1/16", polishes up awesome, no sign of dies, and welds like quality grade stuff so you can modify it any way possible. No different than IC bends that you pay twice as much for...

The #1&4 runners will have a slight taper towards the center of the plenum so it will fit, plus it will be built while engine is still in the car. The 2 center runners will also have a slight bend to create even lengths between all 4. The plenum and runners will also be polished on the inside to help air flow. Plenum will be hammer formed in a 2 piece design out of annealed .125" 6061 and as much volume as i can make it. "would like to get it close to 2 sets of cylinders worth of volume" Velocity stacks are also going be incorporated. To me this design seems Superior to the conventional mpi manifolds that are used on all types of 4cyl mpi engines, especially when it comes to even distribution of air to cylinders.