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PICS: Chads T4 header


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Man it is sweet!  8)

 

I can't wait to get the T4 on now!  ;D

 

Here's some pics before I send it out for my head port to flange matching  and cermaic coating.

 

Me likes!  ;D

 

http://a3.cpimg.com/image/5D/66/19549533-a60d-02000180-.jpg

 

http://a4.cpimg.com/image/5E/66/19549534-03c6-02000180-.jpg

 

 

The collector is real smooth. You can run your finger around in it and it is completely smooth and radiused.

 

The external WG flange is in a nice spot to run the dump tube also IMHO.

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That thing is total sweetness!

So the WG goes to the flange, and the dump tube meets up with the exhaust further down the pipe?

I'd like to see pics of it when you get it all together too. With your WG & dump tube set-up.

Hey, that big bar goes down to the motor mount for more support? That is how I have mine done.

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That thing is total sweetness!

So the WG goes to the flange, and the dump tube meets up with the exhaust further down the pipe?

I'd like to see pics of it when you get it all together too. With your WG & dump tube set-up.

Hey, that big bar goes down to the motor mount for more support? That is how I have mine done.

 

 

That big brace goes somewhere, I just haven't figured that out yet.. LOL!

 

THe WG dump tube is going run down under the car. It won't be hooked into the downpipe or exhaust. This will decrease lag a little too.

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I gotcha'. The dump tube is in & of itself to the end of it. That is the race style. Are you taking it all the way to right behind the front tire? That would be sweet. Only people in the know will know what it is!

That bracket looks to me to be just like mine that I made to support the heavy stock assembly. It goes down to the stuc where the little stock heatshield used to bolt up to. The stud that sticks out at an angle, that comes from the heavy metal bracket that shrouds the motor mount. That is the perfect place to support the weight of everything.

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Mike, the bracket attaches to the motor on the upper block-to-motor mount bolt.  The part with the 30* bend goes on the block side.  With the 2 brackets working together you should be able to support a 1000 pound turbo  ;)  The idea was to minimize vibrations on the headder, vibration is the main cause of cracks.
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I just dropped the header off by my machinist.

 

Both guys said multiple times "This guy did a really good job!"

 

He looked over the header and said "this is one nice header". Made comment to the quality welds and the braces used and how that was a really good idea.

 

So now it's getting ported to match my head ports as my head ports are quite larger than stock now. Then off to get ceramic coated.

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I paid $600 and that included shipping and a used HKS 35mm WG.

 

I think the header is $400 but I don't remember.

 

I've been paying Chad off over the last 4 months or so. It never dented my pocketbook that way :)

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Look out Chip...

 

look out chip hell, look out neil.  I've already be surpassed, and I don't have any plans beyond tweaking for a while yet so I'll have to be happy where I am.  What a day in starquest world where a guy with near 300whp has to settle in to some mediocre position in the ranks.  I love it.  That thing will surely be a manned rocket.  Not so patiently waiting Mike.  Can't wait to see some big big numbers man.

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Vibration should have no effect on that bracket. It goes to the top side of the mount. the only way cracking would happen, is if it went to the bottom side of the rubber.

 

The poly mounts will vibrate much worse than stock, so I'm not sure what you meant Mike? There will be less overall engine movement  in the bay, so maybe that is what you mean? That will help things to not crack as bad, but bolts tend to come loose easier too.

 

Yeah, that is one mean header. Is your DP stainless? A stainless DP would work very well with that header. I guess you haven't made the custom DP yet though. I'd go stainless, 3" mandrel.

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Vibration should have no effect on that bracket. It goes to the top side of the mount. the only way cracking would happen, is if it went to the bottom side of the rubber.

;)

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Vibration should have no effect on that bracket. It goes to the top side of the mount. the only way cracking would happen, is if it went to the bottom side of the rubber.

 

The poly mounts will vibrate much worse than stock, so I'm not sure what you meant Mike? There will be less overall engine movement  in the bay, so maybe that is what you mean? That will help things to not crack as bad, but bolts tend to come loose easier too.

 

Yeah, that is one mean header. Is your DP stainless? A stainless DP would work very well with that header. I guess you haven't made the custom DP yet though. I'd go stainless, 3" mandrel.

 

My poly mounts are a lot more stable on the motor. Much less side to side movement. That's what I was getting at.

 

I will be going with a SS downpipe. Haven't made it yet, gotta go down the road and get my welder buddy to help me out with that end. It'll be stainless. JC Whitney has some nice SS manderal bends.

 

My motor remains to be proven still. Had I not shattered that piston I would still have what I had last year. But I got "bent" and got rid of what I thought are problem areas. Time will tell.

 

I want to run lower boost and get some decent power. No more pipedreams of 28 psi.  :o

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Hmmmmmmm..................good luck with that bracket......I had the same bracket and it cracked twice.........lotta vibration........header looks good tho......

 

Well if you have the bracket mounted where Tim says and it is still fatigue cracking, then yes those headers sure do vibrate a lot!!   Only solution is to go with a different material and heavier bracket of course.    But I'd rather the bracket be fatiguing over the header.  

 

 

kev

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Vibration on the runner welds should be ZERO.  there are 2 support brackets, one between the turbo flange and head flange, the other between the turbo flange and the block.  there is no weight on the runners, it is all supported by the brackets.  Also I used stainless bracketry, stronger than steel and thus less prone to fatique.  Wven if the motor moves due to warn out mounts, the bracketry is all attached to the motor itself.

 

Mike, that HKS WG is 40 MM, it should be able to support the biggest of T-4's.  I ran my T-4 to 20 PSI, rock solid stable boost.

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