Indiana Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Helicoil-sp...1QQcmdZViewItem Tell them to go fruck their self that's what I'd do. You can get a pick and pull that old helicoil out its like a spring then put in a new one it can't be that bad. Sounds like it was poorly done the first time and the plug came out and took part of the helicoil with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenquestTSI Posted July 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 (edited) na substock did a good job but the bottom of the insert was cracked and they had to take it out. they told me it came out in peices. then they told me they have a better insert than the one substock sent with the head. i said whatever and they said theyd do it and call me. all im sayin is that they better not mess my head up or charge me anything outragious. Edited July 4, 2008 by BrokenquestTSI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 you best be asking questions BEFORE the work is done exact price may not be available but you and the shop need to have an understanding about what your willing to spend up front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenquestTSI Posted July 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 well, theres not really a chance of them charging me more than........say 150 at the most. why would they? do you think DAD could do that job in about an hour? couldnt take longer than two at the most either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenquestTSI Posted July 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 (edited) ok got my marnel back. looks good actually. heres a few pics.... http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/brokenquesttsi/100_1139.jpg http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/brokenquesttsi/100_1141.jpg it was only 105 and i guess that guy was just a d^%%k. Edited July 8, 2008 by BrokenquestTSI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSportTSi Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 (edited) Hey bro, I didn't know you had them put the cam in for you. 105 is a great deal, if that's the case. Besides... like I said.. there is no reason why R&Ring a helicoil would cost more than 60-120 bucks. Hell, the shop that installed a nutsert in my supercharger case only charged me like 40 bucks. If they would have welded and re-tapped, I would have been pissed. I would bet you dollars to donuts that your average machine shop would not be able to do that correctly for it to last. Regardless of how much it cost.... it would have been a bad idea. Anyhow.... congrats! Edited July 8, 2008 by TurboSportTSi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenquestTSI Posted July 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 hey thanks. now im gonna try to get the engine back together and wait for that turbo situation to have a solution. (and money of course) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
substock Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 hey thanks. now im gonna try to get the engine back together and wait for that turbo situation to have a solution. (and money of course) glad you finally got that back. what type of insert did they put in there for you? the KD Tools one is what DAD told me to pick up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 My shop rate is 68.00 per hr, doesn't take long to eat up an hour Dad And from what ive seen with my stuff it was worth every penny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSportTSi Posted July 9, 2008 Report Share Posted July 9, 2008 glad you finally got that back. what type of insert did they put in there for you? the KD Tools one is what DAD told me to pick up Hey man, I just wanted to thank you again for a smooth transaction and a great price. Hopefully my brother's quest is up and running soon because of it. +rep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoosierquest Posted July 9, 2008 Report Share Posted July 9, 2008 Hey broken. Dont forget to take out the Jet valve adjusters. You dont need those anymore. I guess you could lockem down but I would feel better with them gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenquestTSI Posted July 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2008 Dont forget to take out the Jet valve adjusters. it isnt right the way it is? i dont know how its supposed to look. i thought the way they have it in the pics was fine? what type of insert did they put in there for you? I beleive thats the one they used that DAD told you to get. im not sure. and yeah thanks alot for your help man. im happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDX87Starion Posted July 9, 2008 Report Share Posted July 9, 2008 it isnt right the way it is? i dont know how its supposed to look. i thought the way they have it in the pics was fine? No. Its the adjusters that are screwed into the rocker arms for the jet valves which you dont have anymore. Just screw them out, they have no use and you dont want one to come loose in your engine, and since there is nothing to adjust them to, and the shop left them in, I would go on the assumption that they didnt even touch them and they might be loose anyway, and since you have to check to make sure they are not loose, just take them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenquestTSI Posted July 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2008 done. ok, now you have to get all new exhaust and intake mani stud/bolts/washers right? you cant reuse the old ones? or shouldnt. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlattopMike Posted July 9, 2008 Report Share Posted July 9, 2008 I believe the only ones your really need to replace each time are the exhaust nuts. I got mine from the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenquestTSI Posted July 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 ok. now im cleanin offm the block. i bought a head gasket scraper and a bunch of rags. Do i need to use carb cleaner or somethin to get it all off? idk ive never even done this before. thanks for the help. -Broken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted July 14, 2008 Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 (edited) There can't be any, ANY, left over material on the head or the block NONE, only bare metal, how about some gloves? Now, if you have head bolts or ARPs you only very lightly rub some oil on the threads then hold them in a rag and twist most of it all back off. You do not want to stick bolts down in the head dripping with oil or all gooey some some lubricant cause all it will do it ooze into the cracks under the gasket and ruin your seal as the bolt is turned. The head bolt holes in the block must be clean, and NO rust at all and before you put the head on using only your FINGERS you must MUST be able to totally screw the bolt/stud in COMPLETELY until it bottoms out in the block do this for every hole, if you can't you must clean those threads (old used tap / thread chaser ) if you do not your torque readings will be WAY off. If there is any liquid in the holes it must be removed, as you tighten the bolts down that liquid will either seal in and prevent you from turning the bolt and give a false torque reading or it will all come up around the threads again RUINING your head gasket seal as it oozes into the crack above and below the head gasket. If you use the felpro 8770pt, just oil the threads and both sides of the washers then torque it down to 100-110ftlbs in 3 or 4 stages and DO NOT re-torque it. Edited July 14, 2008 by Indiana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenquestTSI Posted July 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 so should i use the carb cleaner to get all the gasket off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenquestTSI Posted July 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 Like this? http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/brokenquesttsi/000_0083.jpg And this is what my block looks like as of now. The scraper wont take all of it off. what should i use? idk. http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/brokenquesttsi/000_0085.jpg http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/brokenquesttsi/000_0084.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 14, 2008 Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 if you have use'd a scraper on the block in that last pic,,i'd sugest you get a diff gasket scraper ,,a single edge'd razor blade scraper will work very well , the trick with any gasket scraper is it has to be VERY sharp and straight edge'd , and a dry wall puty knife is not a gsket scraper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoosierquest Posted July 14, 2008 Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 After you get all you can with the scraper you can use some scotch brite and Brake kleen if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenquestTSI Posted July 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 (edited) yeah i used a straight blade gasket scraper. i was just afraid to scrap too hard cuz i dodnt want to scratch the block. how much is brake kleen? Also, the scraper sometimes scrapes old gasket into the head olt holes....should i just use a q-tip or somethin? Edited July 14, 2008 by BrokenquestTSI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 scrape away from the water holes, the bolt holes you can blow into with a straw and get that back out, use that scrub pad on a piece of wood to get a flat surface instead of finger tips dull razor blades scratch, keep them sharp and cleaned off, they sell gasket remover you spray on and let soak, its about like carb cleaner though just doesn't evaporate as quick a little wire brush on a dremel will clean up the bolt threads in the block, rinse them then twist a heavy paper towel down in them to absorb that cleaner it will shine when all that gasket is gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 scrape away from the water holes, the bolt holes you can blow into with a straw and get that back out, use that scrub pad on a piece of wood to get a flat surface instead of finger tips dull razor blades scratch, keep them sharp and cleaned off, they sell gasket remover you spray on and let soak, its about like carb cleaner though just doesn't evaporate as quick a little wire brush on a dremel will clean up the bolt threads in the block, rinse them then twist a heavy paper towel down in them to absorb that cleaner it will shine when all that gasket is gone You Go indiana !!! Right on - perfect advice! Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 point being make sure you get the oil,, water dirt out of the head bolt holes , air pressure is best but improvise if you have to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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