TurboSportTSi

The clips are newer, but they were just twisted together and covered with electrical tape. I will solder them and make sure the injector contacts are clean. Thanks for the tip on swapping the injectors.

We checked the fuel pressure regulator today, as well as the vac advance for good measure. Both checked out okay. Cleaned the MAF. The only code was for the O2 sensor, which is pretty new... Not sure if we got the O2 sensor warmed up enough sitting in the driveway to make sure it was nice and hot and therefore not throwing a code. Coolant temp sensor changes resistance smoothly while the engine warms up, but I had to unplug the connector to get a reading. Whenever I would touch the probes to the back of the wiring connector, the motor would stumble. I assume because the resistance of the circuit was changed due to the DMM. Sound normal? Also, the car runs better with the coolant temp sensor unplugged... at least during warm-up. 2 spark plugs looked like the electrode insulators were not in great shape and one was pretty bad... flaking off and such. Going to replace it and see what happens. Compression test resulted in: Cyl 1 - 130 Cyl 2 - 119 Cyl 3 - 119 Cyl 4 - 120 Next step may be fuel filter. The gas tank has been cleaned previously (last year?) and the pre-pump filters looked ok. Not sure how to check for a clogged cat (without removing the downpipe and blasting down the road ), but the car's exhaust does not smell like sulfur (though it does smoke a bit every now and then... may contribute to the cat dying). EDIT: before all of the component ages come into question...pretty much everything is OE but the dist cap/rotor, spark plugs, and wires. The TB housing has been rebuilt, but the injectors, FPR, fuel filter, Vac Adv, ign coil, cat, all sensors, etc are OE.

Late 90s M3 sedan or early-mid 2000s 3 series. Both are great options, handle very well, look great, have room, and have ~240 hp. You can find them for 10-20k. And don't be afraid of mileage on bimmers... however, fear rubber bushings and plastic coolant system parts. Cheap enough to replace, but you need to know about them/inspect them.

Hey man, I just wanted to thank you again for a smooth transaction and a great price. Hopefully my brother's quest is up and running soon because of it. +rep

also, since I am not there to see it in person, you might be able to try installing the 12a turbine housing on the 14g. Nothing else should be necessary unless that turbine wheel is worse than it looks in the pictures. Put the other housing on, spin the shaft by hand, and see if there is contact. If not, you should be good to go for a temporary fix.... the turbine will just be less efficient..... think of it as clipping the wheel. haha.

Man, it has been so long.... I have forgotten just how itty bitty the 12a is. That turbine wheel does not look very bad at all. Just some small FOD went in there, it seems. And yes, you got nothing to lose, but I would have a spare turbo handy for when you get her up and running. If the turbo screeches at all, replace it immediately.

Hey bro, I didn't know you had them put the cam in for you. 105 is a great deal, if that's the case. Besides... like I said.. there is no reason why R&Ring a helicoil would cost more than 60-120 bucks. Hell, the shop that installed a nutsert in my supercharger case only charged me like 40 bucks. If they would have welded and re-tapped, I would have been pissed. I would bet you dollars to donuts that your average machine shop would not be able to do that correctly for it to last. Regardless of how much it cost.... it would have been a bad idea. Anyhow.... congrats!

Well, you would have to ask yourself if getting the car done now instead of waiting for a good turbo is worth blowing up your engine or not. Do it once, do it right, and save yourself the headache.

Ding, ding, ding, ding!!!! That is the correct answer. Would work... if you can get the nuts off of the shaft. 12a shaft, 12a turbine wheel, 12a turbine housing + 14g impeller, 14g compressor housing, and 14g center cartridge. Just hope that the 14g center cartridge has good bearings still... after it has been ran with a messed up turbine wheel. The shaft could have been spinning at strange angles and could have messed the bearings up some.

e46 3 series BMW, hands down. Early 2000s should be well under 20k.

Substock- Check your PMs.

Dude, that looks amazing for a 93! Especially with that mileage. A nice early e36 is so hard to find. Nice DSIIs by the way. Are you ever on bf.c?

The wheels on the white car are from the e46 body style. 99-05. What Truth said about the motors is correct. The 2.5L is OBD I and the 2.8L is OBD II. Here is a FAQ thread for you... it's pretty good. http://www.unitedbimmer.com/kb-e36-common-faults-faq.php This particular one is very very comprehensive. In reality, most of these are not rampant. I will tell you this however; if you get an e36 BMW, unless it has been replaced, your 2 biggest headaches will be the cooling system and everything rubber in the drivetrain/suspension. Fortunately, the rubber mounts and bushings are not expensive, but there are quite a few. The cooling system is one of those things that you can replace the problem parts and be good for another 100K. Until they are replaced though... keep an eye on them. I love my e36, and would definitely recommend them. Best of luck with whichever you decide.

Free bump for j00.

Can't believe that no one has mentioned the tail lights yet... the Conquest has more and thinner "lines" in the lights, while the Starion has thicker, fewer "lines".

Jordan, if I were you, I would print out the process that notfried outlined for you. He knows what he is talking about. That should be all you need. If you get stuck, just shoot me an email. This is not a difficult process... just time consuming. You must be organized. And I still do not get why you bought everything except the one thing you need (potentially).

Sorry, man. I got too much going on at the moment. I'm not gonna be able to swing it. I just can't. SOMEONE PICK THIS UP!!!

More pictures of the car, especially the body/paint, would facilitate a quicker sale. If you are only going to crush it, and the other potential buyers fall through, I could pick it up if you came down a few hundred bucks, seeing as how you are keeping the cat-back. It would make it a hell of a lot easier for me to buy it if it were driveable. I take it that it has no tags and has to be towed.... that complicates things for me.

PM'ing you. Interested and local.

Ummm you need a 3" cat, bro. Unless you are a fan of bottle necks....

Umm, did you mean ceramic? You do not need to reuse the old shims, bro. They are probably rusty and will squeal more than likely. If you want to keep them, apply some anti-squeal liberally on the front and back at the contact points. They are not needed though. I would get rid of them. About the stuff you sprayed on the pads.... was it brake parts cleaner? Or anti-squeal? Anti-squeal usually does not come in spray form. Please tell me that you didn't spray it on the braking surface......

I may be interested, but probably not without seeing a finished product. I have just one question, and it is not meant to rain on your parade... What makes this manifold, in bare form, worth more than double the price of a modded Magna? (700 + 200 for a t-stat housing) I would like an option other than the Magna and FIP's Hurricane 4. (Now that EIP doesn't sell the Cannon) I do appreciate you stepping up to do this though, as it is a big commitment, and will be appreciated by many. Very interested to see results.

Jordan, why don't you PM Scotty, since it was his car to begin with. I know he takes very good care of his cars.... I am sure this one is a good deal.

for the record, i am definitely interested. looking to buy any time within the next couple months or so. if this one does not happen i will most likely go with chad's intake. but like he said, competition is a good thing for all of us. these MPI products just keep improving and i want to commend all of you who dedicate your work to make this happen. to the OP- will your intake have velocity stacks? i would assume so but want to make sure. also, which fuel rail are you looking at using? i would also like to know how the flow results turn out, as i plan to use a ported magna gen 2 head w/ 1mm oversized valves and want to make sure the manifold provides enough flow to match or better the head.

i didnt mean plug and play literally.... i meant not having to build a circuit board and design and assemble the ems.