GCNTSi Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 (edited) So I'm installing some new rotors and pads along with Eibachs, but today I ran into a problem. With the new brake hardware on, the caliper wouldn't fit around the pads, they are too wide, or too thick. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem or if my caliper may have gotten warped.? The rotors are some cross drilled and slotted from some company in Cali, I forgot who but I think they are all the same manufacturer for our cars (look pretty cheap), and the pads are some metallic ones I got from *DM. I thought maybe the caliper was warped from heat but the piston collapsed smooth no problem so I don't think it was sticking, plus it didn't feel like it was sticking. But I'm wondering what I can do to fix this, without buying a new caliper. I did put the caliper in a vice and filed on the "claws" of the caliper without much luck, so I heated up the claws and pryed out on them, then dipped it in water, that seemed to help alot, but still not enough. I just needed like 1/16th", So then I put the pads themselves in the vice and used the file on them, I know now that was a BAD IDEA, even with a face respirator mask and goggles on, good in theory, but really bad idea. I got brake dust everywhere and still burned the eyes and nose, and hardly removed any material. I thought asbetos was no longer used in brake pads.? Anyway, So I heated the caliper again and bent it to the point that I was able to put the caliper on over the pads only just barley, but the rotor wouldn't turn as it should, as if the brake was being applied just barely, and the car doesn't want to roll on it's own like it should, only downhill. I know I won't drive it like this, just maybe back and forth in the driveway until enough pad material is worn away without too much heating of the assembly. But I think that will take forever. Any suggestions, anyone else had this problem? Thanks, GCNTSi. Edited May 2, 2008 by GCNTSi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TainterRacing Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 (edited) Did you compress the calibers? Pushing in the cylinder on the caliper. Brake Dust is ALL bad don’t be sanding or trying to cut them. The cylinder or the sleeve that pushes on the pads should be Even with the housing. If you have that and still can’t get it on there I would make sure you have the right parts. Hope this helps. Front or rear? The rears you have to I believe spin them in they don’t just push straight in. Edited May 2, 2008 by TainterRacing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 ^^Yep. You will have to push the pistons back in... as faaaaaaar as they'll go. On the front's they make a special tool "disc brake caliper spreader", or you can be gangster and use a large screwdriver while prying something to push the piston back in. On the rears, you'll need to use a "disc brake piston tool"... looks like this: http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/3163.gif Used to turn the rear caliper piston. Autozone might let you rent these tools for free... or you can shell out the big bux ($6-$8 each). -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 I think you ruined your caliper, I cannot think of a reason you'd ever file, heat or bend one. Use the FSM to double check the thickness of the rotor to make sure that is correct. Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 poor caliper and pads....sounds like you ruined them the pad won't ever be flat again they will wear uneven and eventually settle in but in the mean time put that same unweven wear on the rotor if you pushed the piston in on a rear caliper you just destroyed the piston and the pin inside and your parking brake will never work and the piston will likely be siezed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GCNTSi Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 (edited) This is the front, and yes I compressed the piston all the way, it is completely flush with the body of the caliper. The reason for heating the caliper and bending it out is that my idea is that it previously got overheated and warped, when cooling it contracted around the pads that were on there. So I was simply trying to shape it back to factory form. At least that's my idea. But I'll measure the new rotors and if they're OK, probably just try some new (reman) calipers since they are pretty cheap. Thanks, -GCNTSi. Oh and the pads I filed with them level in a vice level, with a long flat file so they are still even, at least with naked eye. Edited May 2, 2008 by GCNTSi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t hall Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 Depending on the amount of heat you used on the caliper, the piston seals are also probably toast... not to mention the heat treatment of the caliper.... Also... I have not seen a caliper warp... only a rotor.... good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 (edited) Once you heat the calipers their JUNK!!!! Buy or download the FSM. And read it !!!!!!!! If you have the correct pads and rotors, And compress the piston properly, everything should fit. If not, You take the whole set up to a Brake expert to turn the rotors down to match the pads and calipers. Sounds to me like the new rotors are too wide. CALIBER 308 Edited May 3, 2008 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GCNTSi Posted May 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 I don't see why the calipers would be junk by heating them, they are exposed to lots of heat while in use. I'd bet lots more than what a little handheld Mapp gas torch will do. And the heat I applied was only to the very outer ears, or claws of the caliper, that touch the outside pad. I stayed well away from the piston boot, aiming in the direction away from the rubber boot. But after measuring the rotors and pads it's the pads that are too thick, I got some Autozone pads (since that was all I could find in town) and they fit just fine. I really wanted to use some good metallic pads but I'll have to try to exchange the oversized ones I got. The FSM doesn't list the max size of the rotors (that I could find), but the minimum thickness is 22.4mm or .88", and the new rotors I have measured to 24.6mm or .96". The manual shows the brake pads thickness to be 10mm or 0.39". The pads I was trying to put on were 11.1mm, or .4375" so they were the problem. Thanks for the input, -GCNTSi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 If you heat something like a caliper it loses a bit of it's tempre/integrity/strength. It's now no longer true in keeping the pads lined to wear evenly. I'd probably find another set of calipers, and some different pads. Or maybe even have the rotors turned down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiplash Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 (edited) Myself, and friends, have heated calipers to 400+ F when powder coating with no issues. But the seals are most likely toast as stated above. Edited May 3, 2008 by Whiplash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t hall Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 yes, i can understand and agree on powdercoating heat ranges... getting material hot enough to facilitate bending can require higher temperatures, which can change the microstructure of the material... possibly to the point of crystalization...enducing brittleness.... the heating and cooling cycle can also affect this... I 'still' cannot figure out why one would think the caliper was bent... i can understand the rotor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 (edited) I don't see why the calipers would be junk by heating them, they are exposed to lots of heat while in use. I'd bet lots more than what a little handheld Mapp gas torch will do. And the heat I applied was only to the very outer ears, or claws of the caliper, You weakened the structure and most likely cooked the piston seal and or bushings. All that the members are telling you is that they wouldn't trust the calipers after what you did. It was the incorrect way of going about things. CALIBER 308 Edited May 4, 2008 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 (edited) Myself, and friends, have heated calipers to 400+ F when powder coating with no issues. But the seals are most likely toast as stated above. But you do remove the Pads,Seals,Dust covers, Pistons, Brake fluid and Bushings. Don't you ??? Heres the million dollar question..... Did GCNTSi ??? CALIBER 308 Edited May 4, 2008 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiplash Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 But you do remove the Pads,Seals,Dust covers, Pistons, Brake fluid and Bushings. Don't you ??? Heres the million dollar question..... Did GCNTSi ??? CALIBER 308 Yep! Just the chemical process of cleaning them would eat the seals, pads, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GCNTSi Posted May 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 ....the heat I applied was only to the very outer ears, or claws of the caliper, that touch the outside pad. I stayed well away from the piston boot, aiming in the direction away from the rubber boot... -GCNTSi. I only applied heat to the claws of the caliper with it in a vice on the workbench. No fluid in it, and I had aluminum foil around the boot/piston. I know it probably was not the best idea now, sometimes I just get set in making something work and I wanted to use the $50 pads I bought that everyone had said they were the best for our cars when I bought them last fall. -GCNTSi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t hall Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 Have you figured out WHY the assembly did not fit? rotor thickness or what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiplash Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 The manual shows the brake pads thickness to be 10mm or 0.39". The pads I was trying to put on were 11.1mm, or .4375" so they were the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kellydahman Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 Clear out your inbox messages . Email sent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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