GCNTSi

ok. I guess not. Thanks anyhow.

Can somebody check this on carafax for me? 3GNEK12T54G248718 Thanks, GCNTSi.

I was wanting to put a turbo motor in this but just don't have the time for the project and need to get rid of some vehicles. http://tallahassee.craigslist.org/cto/3869229056.html -GCNTSi.

I'm looking into buying a SRT Neon, can somebody here run the vin for me on carfax? The car seems a little cheap for not having anything wrong with it. I wanna be sure it hasn't been wrecked or anything. 1b3es668x5d105612 Thx, -G. Oh, I'm still planning on getting the Quest back on the road sometime soon, eventually. Got a rod knock, again. I was jumping it and running it a little here and there every few weeks, but now can't seem to get it to start.

I've got one that is cracked. I believe I sold the cam, but I'll have to dig it out and see, it's been sitting in my garage for years now.

I'd ship it ground, I cant stand how the airline guys always throw the luggage around like it's trash, I always watch them toss the luggage on the plane and it's annoying, even just being mostly clothes it bugs me, but a guitar could be damaged easily by them. And the airline would only pay you for it if it is lost. I had a stereo that was broken by the airline, Delta I think, and I tried to get them to pay for it but that didn't happen. -GCNTSi.

I will say that when I fuel pump filter was clogged the Autometer narrow band was not all the way in the green while I was at WOT, so it made me realize that something was wrong. It's a little light show most of the time but when at WOT it should be at full rich bar, or something is wrong. You can't do any real tuning with it but it does have some purpose, I think. -GCNTSi.

Damn it even looked like it was a five lug flatty/ 86.5, it's hard to see for sure but it looks like the rear steelie wheel has five lug nuts. -GCNTSi.

I would bet that the IGN (for ignition) fusible link wire is near failing, it's located on the small box next to the battery that has four different fusible links. You may encounter the problem again, of the car not wanting to start, if so try wiggling that wire and checking the connections of it. -GCNTSi.

Did anybody else notice the pic of the instrument cluster, it appears that the car is running and the temperature looks like the motor is about to meltdown. Unless the gauge is wrong or shorted out. -GCNTSi.

I built this motor just a year and a half ago, I don't think I even got 5k miles on it, changed the oil probably 5 times. I dunno whats up with this thing, this is the second time I rebuilt this motor, the first time I didn't even get 1500 miles on it before a rod knock. The second build I went all out on the 2.6 I spent over $3k in this thing, and I don't know what to do with it. And I can't afford to do that again right now. I guess the machinists' don't know how to use their own equipment, this time they polished my crank and said it was good, which was already turned 10/10. I had even plasti-gauged it and it looked within spec. I think my Quest is cursed, I have owned my white one now for 10 years now, and only able to put about 10k miles on it, now it's claimed it's 4th motor, and yes I have cleaned everything out, oil cooler, lines, intercooler and lines, absolutely everything, first took it to the machine shop for cleaning and then I cleaned it myself before installing anything, rebuilt the turbo, I just don't get it. I'm thinking of throwing my head onto the old factory short block that I have had sitting in the garage, maybe put that into my 2 door Montero, and going 4G63T, or V8 the Quest, just tired of the problems I've had with this 2.6. Any ideas?- -GCNTSi.

I'd bet he is referring to this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks...%3A1|240%3A1318 Maybe this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks...%3A1|240%3A1318 -GCNTSi.

Just make sure you can keep it and still legally drive it. Here in Florida they will give you a Certificate of Destruction, or a CD, and once that is assigned to your VIN it is very very difficult to reverse it back to be able to register/insure the car again. -GCNTSi.

What year/model/engine is it? I would suggest a compression test, and of course if it's been sitting a while (like a year and a half or more) you should go ahead and clean the entire fuel system. Other than that I would look for some good Porsche forums. -GCNTSi.

Looks like a good find, unhacked and unmodded, somewhat low miles, probably rust free, I really wonder what the reserve is set at. But probably about the worst description I've ever seen on ebay. And you always have to be careful of someone with 0 feedback. -GCNTSi.

The proper psi at idle is 36psi, some have said it should be 38 psi. My factory regulator is 40/41psi. 20 psi is LOW! I would bet you are running very lean at that psi, you should change that quick, and I would recommend NGK wires and plugs. Do you have a wideband Air Fuel gauge? Usually when the igniter box goes bad the engine will die completely, no spark at all, and it won't start back up. I would adjust the fuel pressure and check the TPS, just a sweep test with a multimeter to see if it has any dead spot(s). -GCNTSi.

You may be OK to drive the car with a bad booster, but I bet that if the engine dies while at high speed it will be very hard to stop! -GCNTSi.

You shouldn't force it into gear, you can cause damage to the internals of the trans if you keep forcing it in gear. You may have a bad lower slave cylinder, or more likely the linkage is worn out where it attaches to the clutch master cylinder inside the car near the firewall. Does your pedal return on it's own to the fully out postition? One temporary fix you can do is put a spacer in between the pushrod of the slave cylinder and the clutch fork. I've used a washer from a valve cover bolt. -GCNTSi.

Well maybe we were to quick to cut in the pumps, I hope I can be so lucky with the Walboro still being good, mine was making noise off and on so maybe it's just the filter is clogged. But what did you do to clean up the tank so it doesn't clog up another filter, or kill the pump? And did you coat the inside of the tank? I dropped my tank and there is a lot of rust particles in there. I'm trying to figure out how to clean the tank up good, I was thinking muratic acid, or the electrolysis method. Or take it to the radiator shop, but I don't think they can coat the inside so I'd be afraid the rust would come right back.? Any ideas? -GCNTSi.

Looks good! Got anymore pics? You should do a well padded roll bar and a detachable soft top on there. So how does it handle? Does the front end shake bad when you hit bumps? I remember my buddy's Targa Supra and driving it with the top off was no where near as structurally sound as with the top on, and it's was made from the factory as a Targa top car. I can imagine it must not feel too strong hitting bumps while turning at higher speeds.? -GCNTSi.

I heard years ago that BMW first came up with the idea for the variable timing, and Honda redesigned and improved it. -GCNTSi.

Well I've have now gone through 2 "Walbros" in one year. I think I may have gotten some Chinese imitation knock offs. And I'm sick of changing these things, especially when I have a half tank of gas. Let me know if you have anything sitting on the shelf for sale, or trade, I have lots of factory StarQuest parts, 1st Gen Eclipse parts, and Montero parts. I thought I'd post here first to try to find something. Thanks, -GCNTSi.

Well our 2.6 liters don't have push rods, they have mechanical or hydraulic lifters. Did it just start ticking/tapping out of the blue, or was it sitting for a while? Sometimes you could just be low on oil, or air got into the hydraulic lifters, or if you have mechanical lifters they may need to be adjusted. Did it sit for a while or just start ticking? Have you checked the oil level? And are you sure that it is coming from the top end? -GCNTSi.

I can't say for these trannies, since I haven't pulled one apart, but I've seen RWD trannies compared to FWD, the RWD's are usually much easier, basically the same thing but in a much larger space, and without the spider gears, just one output. But as stated before you should post in the 'Items Wanted' section for a good trans and you should be able to find one near you for at least half of 350! Again where are you, at least what state? There's probably somebody on here that can hook you up with a decent used trans for a good price. -GCNTSi.

When you take a road trip you make sure to bring an extra knock box, fusible links, multimeter, flashlight, and enough hand tools to preform an engine swap. When you are afraid that when you fix one thing, you'll have two more things die on you. -GCNTSi.