heefner Posted May 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 You should have plenty of room for the compressor. Is this home made or did you have some one build it for you? Either way I like the longer tube desing. Looks like stainless. 304, 316 or 321? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mingo1 Posted May 3, 2006 Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 It is schedule 40 stainless and full tig welded. It is made a local shop called SCI Performance that is where I had my car dyno'd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopDawg_43 Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 Here is a pic of my custom header Either I'm drunk or I don't see a pic. Or maybe I need to drink to see the pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted May 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 I think he took them down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontyTSI Posted May 7, 2006 Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 it would be cool if he told us who he suspected... i have my ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted May 8, 2006 Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 it a nice header and all but its not a new design. i don't know what is there to copy. maybe i am missing somthing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mingo1 Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 who said it was a new design. At least I didn't so don't put words in my mouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 i am not trying to be rude. its a very nice header and quality of work looked just as good. I am just saying, there is nothing to hide. it was others who said copying was the reason to remove pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jozel Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 Nice pics Heef!! it just gave me an idea how it would look like on mine the only biggest challenge for me now is the downpipe and how did you had it fabricated ? do you have it done in a shop?Going to a muffler shop would be quite impossible for me I'm mostly gonna be doing mine at the garage and driving w/o the downpipe to the shop and the midsection hangin?... nice I also noticed you don't have the o2 sensor bung welded .... you had it placed all way down as per AEM? in fact i also got them. PS: The location of the nipple on your compressor is interesting would it matter if it's installed at the end of the housing? :? where you have it though looks more stable :wink: Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted August 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 I bought a modular section of 3" stainless pipe with a v-band on each end from www.atpturbo.com Then I cut and welded my old down pipe to match up. I have a welder at home. I don't think the boost port on the turbo makes any difference where its located. That's how my compressor came from Precision. I welded in a bung down low on the flat part (after the down section of the downpipe) to keep it as far from the turbo as possible. The less heat the better. You can mount the 02 sensor in the muffler if you want as long as you aren't running cats it will make zero difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jozel Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 Great info!! Thanks !! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontyTSI Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 id like to take a minute and thank you heefner youve been telling and showing the results of your work and "trial and error" for a long time now.. It is very appreciated man oh and mingo... do your thing man!!! Monty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted August 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 id like to take a minute and thank you heefner youve been telling and showing the results of your work and "trial and error" for a long time now.. It is very appreciated man oh and mingo... do your thing man!!! Monty Think nothing of it. If I can save somebody the headache and a few bucks by learning from my mistake its the least I can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jozel Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 Heef's always an asset to the community and not to mention his well built engine it's like man how many times he's been in the track and probably countless dyno runs :shock: .... i would'nt even dare goto a dyno right now i might $h1t bricks... something might blowup in fact i ordered the modular pipes from atp last night i would not have known they make this stuff on v-clamp makes it more easier to fab. didn't mean to be a copycat bro you're sort of a guide to us hehe. ps i ordered the long neck 90 deg this should be it right?....all i need now is a welder ....hmmm now i need a different community for that.. say my niegborhood :wink: Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jozel Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 by the way i got chad's manifold what size stud should i get for the t3 flange? is it a 5/16? and where can i get the nut for the egt bung? thanks,joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 It's a 3/8-16 thread, you can use grade 8 bolts from any hardware store. On the bung, use a steel pipe plug, 1/8" NPT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jozel Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 It's a 3/8-16 thread, you can use grade 8 bolts from any hardware store. On the bung, use a steel pipe plug, 1/8" NPT. Thanks Chad I'm actually gonna use the egt bung and i'm still looking for an ss 1/4-1/8npt compression fitting for it any place or site that sells it...been looking everywhere ...ips:im also gonna use 3/8 studs instead ..and still looking too.... anyway the bolts should be the last resort. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 are you talking about the adapter that comes on a autometer (or other brands ?) EGT probe? Is it 1/8" NPT male on one end, and 1/8" compression on the other? the type that clamps onto the stem of the probe itself when you tighten it down? If you are just looking to cap it, those steel (galvanised) plugs are pretty eacy to find and any place that sells plumbing parts, maybe 60 cents or so, just don't use brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jozel Posted August 16, 2006 Report Share Posted August 16, 2006 yeah that's the one but the probe comes in 3 sizes 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4the latter w/c i need w/ 1/8 npt I have the autometer there's a few sites that has it but the ss so far was for a 3/16 only Anyway i'lljust get the non-ss one if need be. ...sorry didn't mean to hijack your thread heef . PS your manifold is excellent pics soon JOe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screemin eagle Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 hey joe if you need stainless welded let me know i got the weld loaded with stainless wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jozel Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 hey joe if you need stainless welded let me know i got the weld loaded with stainless wire thanks dave i already have a welder by westbury called accurate welding excellent place long time no talk how's your's doin'? me and jayton might meet up soon i'll let you know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestarion Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 I'VE GOT 1 QUESTION? WHERE ANY OF CHADS OR ANYBODY ELSES HEADERS HEAT TREATED? MORE THAN LIKELY NONE OF THEM WHERE.thats why they crack. i have worked in machine shops, fab shops, and even with boeing aircraft. stainless that will be exposed to heat was always heat treated, even titanium.no heat treat will 99% of the time produce a crack somewhere on the product, no matter how much you stress relive the product. heat treating is simple and doesnt cost very much to do if you have a bulk order to treat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 the primary reason they crack is because they are subjected to extreme temperature varriants and fast heat/cool cycles. Even if you relived built up stresses from the manufacture process, these stresses will just re-occur from the cyclical temperature abuse the headder goes though in normal opperation. This thing is constantly heat treated. The more you use it, the harder it gets, but eventualy it will become brittle and that will cause it to fail. The only way to truely prevent cracking is to use a material that has a solution temp that is higher than the max opperating temp, like Inconel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted October 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 What temp would they use to heat treat ? My header see's 1400-1600 just about every time I drive it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 depending on the material 1400-1800, so yah, about that high Heefner. it varrys from alloy to alloy, but in that range. I thought aobut it, even got a kiln that will do it, but it's just going to loose whatever I do to the first time you get it hot. same for cryo treating, if we kept them under the solutin tepms, it would work, but we don't :twisted: . Inconel would work, that will stay treated to something like 1950. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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