HKS Starquest G54B T Performance Cam Specs?

[Starfighterpilot]

Our Starquest Ladies are getting OLD, like me, and there are not too many high quality OEM or Performance parts for maintaining or increasing their performance available as compared to the '80's & '90's.

 

Now consider that the latest engine oils don't have the required amount of additives in them anymore to mitigate our cam shaft lobes from wearing out - especially the off the shelf API SM grades of engine oil. So what is happening? Youre wearing out the cam shaft lobes - UNLESS you use the ZDDP additive every time you change engine oiI.

 

I use the ZDDP additive.

 

So I'm relatively sure that most of our Starquest Lady's cam shafts are gonna, if not already, NOT be everything that they were brandy new cuz you're getting very gradual decreased performance because of the gradual cam lobe wear.

 

See this SQC link for more info. http://zddplus.com/ And do a ZDDP BS Forum Search about discussions concerning this problem.

 

Skulking around my old computer's OLD SQC internet book marks I found that I had saved a link to Komeuppance's post about the specs for HKS' performance camshaft for our Starquests '83 to '88/89.

 

http://home.comcast....ance/HKScam.pdf

 

Take a look at it, and if there is a Starquester out there that knows a hell of alot more about cams, than I do, please chime in as to wether or not this cam is better than our factory OEM cams configurations. And if we did a group purchase, could these cams be "semi" - economically fabricated for our Starquest community?

 

I know that the Old Broad, with about 485K miles on her original factory cam, is gonna need a cam in her future and I've seen some posts on SQC about Starquesters wanting a replacement cam in the Parts Wanted Forum.

 

So Wha Cha Think?

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

[kev]

If be all in for it

[JohnnyWadd]

I had hks cam , sold it to Runnel.

 

Lobe wear can be fixed by running a mechanical cam.

Edited September 26, 2015 by JohnnyWadd

[Starfighterpilot]

I had hks cam , sold it to Runnel.

 

How was it's performance? Better than the OEM factory cam?

 

Lobe wear can be fixed by running a mechanical cam.

 

Sorry to disagree with you. But it's the Starquest's rocker arm slippers on the rotating cam lobes which are causing the lobe wear problem. And both the mechanical and hydraulic cams have the rotating cam lobes rubbing on rocker arm slippers.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

[scott87star]

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=147194

 

And

 

http://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/classic-and-vintage/articles/reduced-zddp-and-wear-protection/

[mr-starion]

Looked into getting some blank shafts made. Havent been able to find a company that will do less than 10. Even At 10 its 800-1000$ each. Kinda wish i worked in castings. Had a freind that did but the company went bankrupt before i got to ask for anything.

[JohnnyWadd]

 

 

How was it's performance? Better than the OEM factory cam?

 

 

 

Sorry to disagree with you. But it's the Starquest's rocker arm slippers on the rotating cam lobes which are causing the lobe wear problem. And both the mechanical and hydraulic cams have the rotating cam lobes rubbing on rocker arm slippers.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

Ask Runnel he ran it for a while. I will link him this thread.

 

You realize the mechanical cam has a slightly larger profile right? So running a mechanical cam and lifters is a slight upgrade.(especially if your whole motivation is the wear on your hydraulic cam , which is the most used cam in our cars)

 

Every time I mention it all the naysayers chime in with how little the difference is etc etc. But the fact is it has more lift and duration.

[JohnnyWadd]

 

And both the mechanical and hydraulic cams have the rotating cam lobes rubbing on rocker arm slippers.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

 

The HKS cam is not any different...all cams rub on the slippers so not even sure what you mean. All cams will wear in the way you describe. The hks cam has even bigger lobes so wear is likely to happen faster.

 

What I mean about the mech cam is that versus a worn hyd part with similar miles, it will likely still have less wear and measure out with a micrometer better.

Edited September 26, 2015 by JohnnyWadd

[Skullzaflare]

 

 

 

The HKS cam is not any different...all cams rub on the slippers so not even sure what you mean. All cams will wear in the way you describe. The hks cam has even bigger lobes so wear is likely to happen faster.

 

What I mean about the mech cam is that versus a worn hyd part with similar miles, it will likely still have less wear and measure out with a micrometer better.

I disagree, both will have the same wear, slipper rockers only wear the lift and peak part of the lobe, closed won't wear from lack of pressure, closing will wear but far slower than opening.

Mechanical vs hydraulic, hydraulic is easier on the lobes since it has a cushion. Roller rockers would be the best way to go if you are trying to make a cam last longer

[JohnnyWadd]

I disagree, both will have the same wear, slipper rockers only wear the lift and peak part of the lobe, closed won't wear from lack of pressure, closing will wear but far slower than opening.

Mechanical vs hydraulic, hydraulic is easier on the lobes since it has a cushion. Roller rockers would be the best way to go if you are trying to make a cam last longer

 

A bigger lobe is more surface area of contact. Lengthwise the contact on the slipper is in increased. The degree to which the spring is compressed is now greater so pressure is increased. I did not make this stuff.

 

Just like this "cushion" you mention on the hydraulics. What is the cushion doing? It's lower the pressure of the contact.

 

Am I saying that in a few thousand miles you can put a micrometer on it and be able to measure one then thousands? Probably not. But it's simple engine stuff here. Using a cam with more lift and more duration has the potential for more wear.

 

slipper rockers only wear the lift and peak part of the lobe,

 

Hmmm ...not to be a smart aleck her but wear occurs anywhere there is metal to metal contact. And yes wear is going to be greater on the lift and peak part as you say , but why is that true? Because the contact pressure is higher there. Just like the HKS cam is going to have higher on those areas. That what I was saying. The increased pressure = increased wear (potential wear)

 

High point on the lobe wears faster we agree on that right? So you make that point on the lobe even higher and wider = increased pressure and increased metal to metal contact = more wear.

Edited September 30, 2015 by JohnnyWadd

[Skullzaflare]

 

 

A bigger lobe is more surface area of contact. Lengthwise the contact on the slipper is in increased. The degree to which the spring is compressed is now greater so pressure is increased. I did not make this stuff.

 

Just like this "cushion" you mention on the hydraulics. What is the cushion doing? It's lower the pressure of the contact.

 

Am I saying that in a few thousand miles you can put a micrometer on it and be able to measure one then thousands? Probably not. But it's simple engine stuff here. Using a cam with more lift and more duration has the potential for more wear.

 

 

 

Hmmm ...not to be a smart aleck her but wear occurs anywhere there is metal to metal contact. And yes wear is going to be greater on the lift and peak part as you say , but why is that true? Because the contact pressure is higher there. Just like the HKS cam is going to have higher on those areas. That what I was saying. The increased pressure = increased wear (potential wear)

 

High point on the lobe wears faster we agree on that right? So you make that point on the lobe even higher and wider = increased pressure and increased metal to metal contact = more wear.

That's what I ment on cushion, soften the impact.

I have not seen any cams with lobes narrower than the sliper.

Agreed right before and at the peak will have the greatest stress. Heavy duty springs add to this, along with more lift. Duration not as much but will have stress at the end of the duration.

The lobes on my diesel swap are the same width as the g54. But I have roller mechanical rockers. The rollers are discolored from heat and stress

[JohnnyWadd]

Go diesel!

 

Is yours the one with timing belt issues?

[importwarrior]

APPLICATIONS

AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for older or modified engines requiring either 10W-30 or 20W-50 motor oil. Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil meets API SL and earlier specifications, allowing for increased levels of anti-wear additives. ZDDP levels in Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil exceed the limits of API SM and newer specifications.

 

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/

 

 

http://www.amsoil.com/shopres/products/900px/ZRT.jpg

[Skullzaflare]

Go diesel!

 

Is yours the one with timing belt issues?

No that is the flat body d56, he's on the forums. He installed the same timing kit I did, but looks like balance shafts belt walked and pushed the timing belt off.

Before he changed it, he found the old shaft belt was shredded and crammed in there. I'm thinking what ever shredded the old belt may have been related to the belt pushing off.

 

 

Also, importwarrior, quaker state defy, currently has the best protection and zinc content available off the shelf that's not racing oil

[Shelby]

slipper cams are becoming very rare these days almost all engines are ruunning roller or folower over cam set ups ,, now these set ups are not easier on cam shafts all the pressure points are narrowed to a very small pressue point , this point can take up to 100 times the amount placed on the metal at this point

 

it's also important to say there is no oem turbo cams from the factory ,, there is a diff in hyd and

mechanical cams , the lift is.001" lift , not enough to make a performance diff ,

 

installing a hyd cam with mech rockers can cause noise because the hyd lift profile has for lack of a better word has slight dips in the ramp this is to help the lifter get a fresh charge or oil just befor it

starts the lift ramp , this dip makes noise as the rocker bounce and add unwanted

noise in the valve train lash set up

 

the only other cams oem I have found for our engines is the aussie roller it is almost the same profile as our slipper cam set up, w2ith the 3.0 rockers it gives a slight improvement over oem , close to a 270 or oem slipper is a 264

 

early HKs CAMS WERE MADE WITH NEEW BLANKS , lately the are using regrinds

Edited October 4, 2015 by Shelby

[JohnnyWadd]

there is a diff in hyd and

mechanical cams , the lift is.001" lift , enough to make a slight performance diff ,

 

 

 

Fixed

[Shelby]

 

 

Fixed

 

fixed huh, what about valve lash , .001" looser or tigher lash changes over ride any loob diff

l

want to make a diff install roller rockers and free up 40-50% engine turn over resistance or in another

term 15% free hp , ask any one using roller rockers and see if they want to go back

[mstieg]

Let's go roller. Solves friction problem and other clear advantages. Issue seems now is which roller is best, if there is one at all. I'll be following up sooner than later on how my OEM Magna turns out. Tim C has a Magna grind available to him through one of his guys, but some adjustments may be needed on that. A Magna type grind would be great as the smaller profile would allow for common 1.6 ratio roller rockers to seal whereas they won't on the OEM Magna - which are too rare anyways.

 

Reading cams on here seems to indicate most of the grinds HKS, TEP (poor casting), and Schneider are designed a bit to simple, with intake & exhaust done with same profiles to save design and setup cost. Well that seems crappy. While expensive to get a custom cam figured out, once right, a known good setup should sell pretty well for the reason OP stated.

 

Kev's looking into the cam issue and with Tim's input, I think we'll have something good cooking up here.

[lionbull]

No that is the flat body d56, he's on the forums. He installed the same timing kit I did, but looks like balance shafts belt walked and pushed the timing belt off.

Before he changed it, he found the old shaft belt was shredded and crammed in there. I'm thinking what ever shredded the old belt may have been related to the belt pushing off.

 

 

Also, importwarrior, quaker state defy, currently has the best protection and zinc content available off the shelf that's not racing oil

 

Yes it does BUT if you are running E85, it will turn the oil thin like water so i had to switch to

amsoil premium protection(10w-40)

or you can do z-rod(10w30) which rates slightly higher than the quakerstate DEFY and does not get broken down by the E85.

Edited October 9, 2015 by lionbull

[Skullzaflare]

Yes it does BUT if you are running E85, it will turn the oil thin like water so i had to switch to

amsoil premium protection(10w-40)

or you can do z-rod(10w30) which rates slightly higher than the quakerstate DEFY and does not get broken down by the E85.

you have something wrong with your engine lol, e85 never effected my oil, other than changed the smell slightly

[lionbull]

you have something wrong with your engine lol, e85 never effected my oil, other than changed the smell slightly

 

you were on e85?

TBI or MPI?

what size injectors?

Please share.

maybe something is wrong with my motor.

I would like to establish some sort of baseline from someone who had it set up right.

Thanks.

Edited October 10, 2015 by lionbull

[StarquestRescue]

Shorter oil change intervals are recommended with e85. And some oils do not like it. Any ethanol that makes it in to the crank case wants to absorb water. It I a good ideal to avoid short runs ware the oil does not get full temperature.

[lionbull]

Shorter oil change intervals are recommended with e85. And some oils do not like it. Any ethanol that makes it in to the crank case wants to absorb water. It I a good ideal to avoid short runs ware the oil does not get full temperature.

 

thank you for bringing this out, though i was aware.

quaker state defy is one of those oils. it has a very low tbn and is not shear stable for long with e85.

i would only use quaker state with pump gas

it is a good oil, i used to use/recommend it but the research confirmed my findings during oil changes.

amsoil is very resistant to dilution and is very shear stable even with e85 even with short runs.

As SQR said you still have a shorter change interval.

it is up to you to determine this for car

Edited October 11, 2015 by lionbull

[Skullzaflare]

you were on e85?

TBI or MPI?

what size injectors?

Please share.

maybe something is wrong with my motor.

I would like to establish some sort of baseline from someone who had it set up right.

Thanks.

i have run on both, 2 green injectors with megasquirt on tbi, once on modded tbi with 4 580cc injectors on megasquirt, few times on mpi with 1000cc injectors

always kept my laptop with me, if i was near a e85 station, id fill up and switch tunes

 

my turbo miata i had a hell of a time, 720cc injectors i kept getting hiccups, but stock 280cc were fine. (turned out it was from running Hi-Res firmware with low imp injectors)

[Funky Phil]

I like to stick a wad of hopes and dreams in there before reinstalling the VC.