best engine swap

[psu_Crash]

Best Swap = No Swap

[importwarrior]

anyone ever figure out how to fit a working ac in to the jz swaps?

I believe the frame rail near radiator driver side was notched for ac compressor to fit

frame notched to clear pulley

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=100516

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01090.jpg

 

 

Edited July 23, 2014 by importwarrior

[LSQuest88]

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag290/406conquest/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0008_zpseqeprnl_edit_1406135645944_zps8niuqxc3.jpgThis is my weight on mine. LS swapped firewall and trans tunnel untouched. Full interior stock wheels. 3095 weight without me in it. 53% front 47% rear weight so fairly well balanced not too nose heavy

[jeph_tsi]

yeah i bet it throws the balance off a cliff

 

 

but at least it sounds cool...........?

 

it is good to have a car that doesn't sound like a tractor, but What I really like is having way more hp and still better gas mileage, also its nice to have a 300+ hp conquest that is dependable as a daily come rain, sleet, extreme heat and extreme cold, being able to rev to 7500rpms is nice too. If it were a sunday driver I wouldn't mind sacraficing a little reliability, but I really wanted to have decent power AND something I can drive every day.

 

As far as swaps go, given a larger budget I would have probably done a lsx, but the jz's are way cheaper. What I like about the jz is that from start to finish if you do it yourself you can have a very reliable conquest with a 4.5k budget. The part I like the most is that once the swap is done, catastrophe isn't expensive. I love that IF I do blow up my motor I can easily find another for under 1k and be back on the road, a well built g54 would take a lot more time and money to replace, lsx would be equal time but more money.

 

The front heavy part is the downside, with a healthy suspension it isn't terrible, but with the average conquest having a worn suspension its gonna be a problem. In my case I'm not roadracing the car, I'm using it as a daily and occaisonally racing so with a healthy suspension and braking system I'm quite happy. either way, to each their own, if you don't want to swap don't, but the subject of this thread is about the best swap and not wether or not to swap.

 

So here is my final opinion, best swap, lsx. But best swap on a budget would definitely be the 1jz.

[tsi_tom]

http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag290/406conquest/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0008_zpseqeprnl_edit_1406135645944_zps8niuqxc3.jpgThis is my weight on mine. LS swapped firewall and trans tunnel untouched. Full interior stock wheels. 3095 weight without me in it. 53% front 47% rear weight so fairly well balanced not too nose heavy

 

Why is your car heavy on the RF side?

[jinx]

it is good to have a car that doesn't sound like a tractor

now, is that the mechanical "noise" some 54s make.... or exhaust note? Alot of 54s run quiet, and the muffler chosen make all the difference, ranging from horrible to sweet. JZs not exempt from that either... they can sound like crap too.

But best swap on a budget would definitely be the 1jz

What I like about the jz is that from start to finish if you do it yourself you can have a very reliable conquest with a 4.5k budget.

From way back, folks have detailed their 4g63 swaps for much less than half that

No extra two cylinders hanging ahead of the crossmember (or the accompanying weight).... plus ac fits easily

Pros and cons

[jeph_tsi]

yep, pros and cons are everywhere, just thought I'd chime in on my experience as I've put quite a few miles on my jz swap. I had seriously looked into the 4g6x swap prior to this and there is no way it would be a 2k swap, depending on what you count. many of the parts detailed in my 4.5k budget would be necessary for many performance setups (intercooler, piping, exhaust, clutch, radiator, fuel pump, etc...). My turnoff on the 4g6x swap was that there is a lot of mixing and matching, wideblock with eclipse head, or narrow block with d50 trans (and convert from cable to hydro clutch). Then after all that effort you're left with the weaklink of the km132 trans... In any of my swaps I usually plan for a worst case scenario, if your 4g6x swap blows up it would be much more difficult to replace, you'd have to build another hybrid engine. and still I see very few if any dd 4g's, I don't think anyone has chimed in on this thread with one, but it seems like a much more difficult swap than the jz from what I understand of it.

[LSQuest88]

 

 

Why is your car heavy on the RF side?

I wondered that myself when I weighed it lol only thing I can think of is previous owner notched out the front frame rail slightly when he put the sbc in it and welded in some steel flat stock for support but not 50 lbs worth. Might have the drivers side coilover just a hair higher than the passenger but not sure that would do it either. It's a mystery lol

[jinx]

and still I see very few if any dd 4g's, I don't think anyone has chimed in on this thread with one

Daily driven 63/64 starquest would be no different than a dd DSM, and they've lasted forever

DSM guys crossing over to 63/64 starquest were on a different run.... rwd beasts, instead of daily drivers

Most of your 'basic' 63 starquest swaps passed thru SQC years ago.

Aussie forum still detail lotsa finer examples, more suited to daily drivers. A wealth of ideas/info too

Their factory 2.0 widebloks makes converting ez tho.

Mix n mtch is a challenge to some, but just seen as lots more options to others.

No need for hybrid if u buy a gbox adapter.... or better yet, if u can adapt the box of choice yourself

 

Come to think of it, toyota even gotcha covered in the 4cyl department. 2RZ + 5spd from the pickup

If li'l corollas swallow them, a starquest should no prob. Unopened RZs gone past 500hp/500tq when boosted

One rolla member went 9.8 in his street car @26psi and got 37 mpg.

Good stuff.... but you'll only be swapping out one "truck motor" for another

[jeph_tsi]

I don't think it would be the same as a dd dsm... the 4g63 won't just drop in, many things must be changed... I could say the same of dd duty for any of the other engines discussed, they all came stock in something, lol, and these mass produced cars (toyotas with jz's, gm with ls's, ford with 302 etc) are all proven platforms. The difference is that the jz really can drop in with no alterations to the dropout, this is the advantage over the 4g6x.

 

Now don't take this the wrong way, I have a lot of respect for the 4g6x engines, I just prefer otherwise in my conquest. In fact (and ironically) I plan on 4g63 swapping a first gen mr2 this winter (flame suit on!). In that case it is preferred for the same reason as the jz in the conquest, I can drop in a totally stock fwd 4g63 dropout and have a great, dependable car, I can't wait to drive that little monster!

[ucw458]

I don't think it would be the same as a dd dsm... the 4g63 won't just drop in, many things must be changed... I could say the same of dd duty for any of the other engines discussed, they all came stock in something, lol, and these mass produced cars (toyotas with jz's, gm with ls's, ford with 302 etc) are all proven platforms. The difference is that the jz really can drop in with no alterations to the dropout, this is the advantage over the 4g6x.

 

Now don't take this the wrong way, I have a lot of respect for the 4g6x engines, I just prefer otherwise in my conquest. In fact (and ironically) I plan on 4g63 swapping a first gen mr2 this winter (flame suit on!). In that case it is preferred for the same reason as the jz in the conquest, I can drop in a totally stock fwd 4g63 dropout and have a great, dependable car, I can't wait to drive that little monster!

 

 

The advantage you are talking about goes away once you install the engine. Things like modded intakes and exhaust don't blow up when an engine dies. In fact there are off the shelf RWD intakes and exhaust you can buy for those engines. And just like the JZ platform there are many trans choices beyond mating a wideblock to a SQ trans. You can run the same W58 or R154 as the JZ. The 4G63 also doesn't stop at 7500 RPM. They can rev to 9k.

 

 

Your main point about blowing up a JZ and finding another easily applies to 4G63s as well.

[jinx]

I don't think it would be the same as a dd dsm

been proven. Why would you 'think' not ?

4g63 won't just drop in, many things must be changed

Many? Lets see....

cut & shut the intake - simple

water in/outlet to the front - choose one of the various methods

spin the turbo around on oe manifold and 'fiddle' with the lines

buy a bell & w58, or diy adapt as some have

...not a whole lot, for anyone taking on a swap imo

 

1st gen MR2 AW11 may even have the starquest beat, as far as the numerous powerplants they've swapped into those things.

The puny little 1.6 4AG quite capable too. I recall way back one of the quickest street tire oz/nz cars was turbo 1.6 mr2

Mid 10s no spray. Would destroy the majority of swapped ones

[LSQuest88]

In my experience back in my dsm days I would've had to keep my 4G bone stock if I wanted it as a reliable daily driver or spend thousands getting one professionally built. I doubt anyone swapping a 4G in anything is going to keep it stock so there goes your reliability. I had a hard enough time keeping mine on the road as a daily driver and this is in a car that came with a 4g63 and not crazy built either. I'm not saying any swap is better than the other but I do have hands on experience with 4g63s. If you want a swapped quest that will be reliable, fast, and something you can get in and just go I wouldn't recommend a 4g unless you have the bank account to build it with all top shelf crazy priced parts. Then your opening up your budget for plenty of other options. That's just my 2 cents Edited July 24, 2014 by LSQuest88

[Technology]

Does it have a hemi?

[jinx]

What would make a 63 suddenly unreliable once moded? Exactly, what 'breaks' in these motors ?

To this day, folks r still pounding the mess outta virgin 6 bolt 7.8:1 long blocks. Impossible for an 'unreliable motor'.

You need nothing more than a healthy stock long block to go very quick reliably.

4-500 ft-lbs and a ~7500rpm redline will satisfy most

Nor is it expensive to freshen up a 2.0(8.5/9.0:1 if ya like) or go 2.4, to suit your goal.

A "professionally built" or "top shelf crazy priced parts" is merely an option, certainly not a requirement

Don't take my word for it. DSM and aussie forums are littered with specimens

[LSQuest88]

I didn't necessarily say things break theres just more of a "chance" for something to go wrong if your pushing 20+ psi. Hell just adding a higher pressure clutch seems to aid in crank walk more especially on the 7 bolts. Since your stuck on the 4g63 swap being the best I'll ask does your quest have a 4g in it? Have you owned a car with a 4g in it? I'm just curious. My ls1 I can see lasting for 200,000 miles. Can you say that about a 4g? I also get 25+ mpg. Best I ever saw in my talon was about 18. Freshening up a 4g would also most likely include a turbo rebuild which will add to the rebuild. For daily driver you want least maintenance possible. The 6 bolt motor you'd want for your swap is nearing 25 years old. Engines have come a long way since then. I have a hard time believing "virgin" 6 bolts are still getting beat on today without ever being cracked open unless they are stock or have always stayed under 20 psi. Those stock head gaskets blow like a fuse once they get to 20 psi or more. No disrespect to you liking the 4g63s as I liked tthem myself for what they were. I'm just giving true first hand knowledge that the OP may want to think about. Plus he was looking for simplicity in a swap. Can't get a whole lot more simple than a n/a v8 (of any kind, not just LS) Edited July 24, 2014 by LSQuest88

[Walker]

oops Edited July 24, 2014 by Walker

[Walker]

I love that IF I do blow up my motor I can easily find another for under 1k and be back on the road,

 

where can i find a 1jz for 1k or less?

Edited July 24, 2014 by Walker

[Shelby]

the OP asked what was the BEST swap.

well there is no BEST it all depends on what your after and want

 

doing a MPI swap to a stock 2.6 can be done for less then $2k if you have the ability and tools to do all the work your self

 

on my own MPi swap I spent just over $900 out of pocket start to finesh , that was for the intake ,

injectors, ECU and harness with sensors , the piping for the ic and other fabing I was able to do on my own , I understand every one is not in the same position but it can be done for $1000.00 or less

[jeph_tsi]

The advantage you are talking about goes away once you install the engine. Things like modded intakes and exhaust don't blow up when an engine dies. In fact there are off the shelf RWD intakes and exhaust you can buy for those engines. And just like the JZ platform there are many trans choices beyond mating a wideblock to a SQ trans. You can run the same W58 or R154 as the JZ. The 4G63 also doesn't stop at 7500 RPM. They can rev to 9k.

 

 

Your main point about blowing up a JZ and finding another easily applies to 4G63s as well.

 

lol, so I guess you like half of my swap! So now you're ready to get trans adaptor, custom clutch/flywheel setup, driveshaft, and a few 'minor' mods to the engine. Once all of that is done you'll still be around 100hp shy of jz so then more time and money just catchin' up. I guess to each their own, I chimed in to share my experience with the jz swapped sq, good thing you shared your experience with your swapped 4g6x quest...

 

I think so far the actual swappers who contributed here have been several satisfied jz's, a few very satisfied lsx's, satisfied sbc, and one 4g63 who regretfully would have rather gone 302...

[jeph_tsi]

where can i find a 1jz for 1k or less?

 

locally (for both of us), try zerolift, or maybe ebay. Now don't expect the 1k motor to have ecu, or be a complete dropout, but if you need the motor its not tough to find. Most of the advertised motors are complete, try going in person or calling, they've usually got motors missing some accessories or lightly damaged (dented oil pan, cracked valve cover etc...). I've bought several dropouts from a few different places with a quick cash offer. Be ready to buy though, these places hate tire kickers!

[jinx]

but it can be done for $1000.00 or less

in this thread, it says MPI can b done for $600. I figure a writeup would b helpful(and popular) for some, or even sticky

http://www.starquest...ic=141895&st=80

 

LSQuest88

I've had/moded two DSMs, and still holding on another, only as a cheap solid running donor

When I say "virgin", that is in the sense of oem bottom end and non ported head. Heck, all mine still retained balance shafts

Clutch is a choice, I personally have always hated the stiff stuff, like ACT crap. Truley daily driven truely sux

I don't see myself putting 200,000 miles on anything.... engine or turbo. Very unrealistic, and as u pointed out even your LS will b an old outdated mule by then.

I'm only addressing this notion that only a bone stock 4G is reliable.

There could never be a 4G cult following built around that, if that were remotely accurate

Never said it was the 'best' swap. That is for the individual to determine

...and yep, can't beat the simplicity of a na V8

Edited July 25, 2014 by jinx

[TURBOPRO]

Nice