mistapickles Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo278/mistapickles/C0702E49-EC61-4AFB-AE80-10F5FCB69C46_zps1vqb1xiu.jpgI know most people are dealing with the complete opposite of this but is this bad? It will go down to 3/16" above half at idle but it'll run up to where it is in the picture at 3500 rpms. When it's cold outside it'll peg at the top of the gauge until the engine is warm then go back down to where it shows in the picture. What's the downside of this? What do you think caused it? For the most part my engine runs smoother than my g37 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 What oil type (Regular or Synthetic) and weight rating are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 I'm betting the sending unit is malfunctioning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistapickles Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 I run 20-50 and the sender is a couple months old... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Either sender or your oil pump relief valve is stuck. I've had the latter happen recently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistapickles Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Should I unstick it or can I rock this high pressure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Put a mechanical gauge on it to confirm the problem. If so, it's bad. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 ^^^^ what coke said, verify pressure with Mech. gauge 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 The parts store brand sending unit's are junk. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 If its not the sender and you have a newer/tight motor, switch to 10w30. The downside to excess oil pressure is it robs power and can blow turbo seals. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistapickles Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 ... LS reliable power here I come!?!? Between junk aftermarket parts and natural quirks with the factory setup this is getting old... I just drove 250 miles to Las Vegas and my month old starter just crapped out on me. I do love the G54B because I put somewhere near 1000 miles a week on my car and the block itself sounds like a champ but all the stupid surrounding parts makes me want to punch babies in the face... Do I pull the timing cover to remove the oil pump to unstick my relief valve? I'm pretty sure it's not the sender because it'll go down to right above half at idle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Mechanical gauge will tell you the exact pressure, much easier than pulling the pump at this point. Just a drop to 10w30 can help, as what was suggested before. These electric oem gauges are not reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 ... LS reliable power here I come!?!? Between junk aftermarket parts and natural quirks with the factory setup this is getting old... I just drove 250 miles to Las Vegas and my month old starter just crapped out on me. I do love the G54B because I put somewhere near 1000 miles a week on my car and the block itself sounds like a champ but all the stupid surrounding parts makes me want to punch babies in the face... Do I pull the timing cover to remove the oil pump to unstick my relief valve? I'm pretty sure it's not the sender because it'll go down to right above half at idleLOL epic post! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I just drove 250 miles to Las Vegas and my month old starter just crapped out on me. Where did you buy the starter? I always try to by OEM for alternators, starters, and water pumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Code Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 I run 20-50 and the sender is a couple months old... If the sending unit is from SMP, dump it they are junk..Also their cross reference info is screwed up, get an OE Mitsu sending unit.. Just my $0.05... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 So, Did you fix it? any update? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistapickles Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Running with the high pressure.... My turbo hates it but it's a purring freeway beast otherwise... I needed a new turbo anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 (edited) High oil pressure can damage engine bearings too. You might want to address that before you get rod knock. This is about a 4G63 but it applies to all engines. Edited March 10, 2014 by ucw458 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistapickles Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 I'll ask the guys at the shop I work at again, they said high oil pressure affects bad bearings but not fresh bearings like mine. Your link doesn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistapickles Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Ok, just watched the video. My engine isnt a Frankenstein motor nor does it have 60,000 miles of hard driving, nor had it had two gallons of water sitting in it for two years with the same bearings being used... That's an apple and tennis ball comparison Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistapickles Posted March 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Ok, just talked to the horsepower guy and he said as long as my pressure isn't above the 100 psi range leave it alone. He said my main concern would be the crank seals and the turbo but depending on the design of the crank those seals should be fine. He said that if my pressure is in the 80-100 psi range I could use 5-20 or 0-20 oil and cut a whole bunch of drag on the internals to get some better performance. He also told me how to unstick the pressure release without pulling the timing cover off but said why? People pay big money for oil pressure like that and my bearings will last forever, lol. He said you need 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1000 rpms and I'm better than that right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 yep a thinner weight oil is the easiest way,, but make sure the gauge your useing to measure the oil pressure is acurate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg23 Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 Just saw this. If you have the wrong sending unit (Autozone, for example, has them listed incorrectly) it will read about 1/3 of a gauge high. I was getting readings like yours when they gave me the wrong sending unit. Like everyone else says: Check with another gauge tapped off the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 this engine wasn't made to run on thin oil...10-30w is fine.. better to blow turbo seal than spin a bearing ..those thin oils are made for new cars the bearing clearances are different.........they are running thinner oil to get more MPGs and bearing metal is better than 25 years ago and the oil too....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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