M Code

They are different... Just my $0.02...

I have a brand new Mitsu factory bra in the box, never used. I am in SoCal, PM me and we can see if we can work out something... Just my $0.02...

Interesting numbers... But 1 thing I noticed was ur RPM @25 MPH, mine was 1771 RPM yours was 2538 RPM... Your tester must of kept it in a lower gear while mine went to a higher gear. Your overall measured numbers are about 20% higher than mine, but U have 100K more miles than I do. Anyway glad U got it passed.. Take care... Just my $0.02...

Can't comment about all year TSis' outside of CA but.. I bought my 87 TSi new in SoCal and know that there were (3) different recalls about the emission system including the ignition, spark plugs and fuel injectors. I still have a couple of the stickers under the hood applied by the Chrysler dealer... Since I have always been in SoCal, we have had my TSi smog tested 15 times and in reviewing some of the older test results one can see how CA has actually revised the standards making it harder to pass... :mad: 1 major change was that in 1990 they tested @ Idle & 2500 RPM, but now test @15MPH & 25MPH. Also the standards for NOx have been added & titened over the years. Though I have always passed... The major challenging area for me has been the EGR and throttle body. About 10 years ago, I tried to get a replacement OE EGR through Mitsu but was told it was no longer available. However since I travel to the Orient 2 or 3 times a year, I have a great contact in Japan and he got me a brand new OE EGR from Mitsu Japan. After installing the later EGR and keeping things kleen, my TSi passes OK. But having a close friend who is a Star certified Test station, he will do a pre-test for me @ N/C. Just my $0.02....

A couple of follow-up points... 1. Find a test station that will do a pretest, this prevents the car from being thrown into the gross-polluter category if it fails out of the box 2. The EGR valve and NOx can be an issue. So pull it and and shoot some carburator cleaner through it and the throttle body passages, Note unmounting the EGR can be a pain with the (2) long OE bolts, I replaced the bolts with studs/nuts makes reinstall and gasket lineup much easier 3. Change oil/filter 4. Kleen or change the air filter 5. Decrease the timing slightly a couple of degrees like down to 10 degrees, this will limit the NOx The above points can make a difference, as our TSi/Starions have been flagged by as borderline cases. There were multiple recalls in the late 80s and 90s by the EPA for various smog issues. I bought my TSi new in 87 and have had to pass the CA smog tests a few times over the last 30 years. Just my $0.02...

On ebagger.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/141725956667?item=141725956667&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

Great drawing.. Just what I needed.. Thank U. Just my $0.02...

Yup.. U guys are on to something for those injector clips. I had mine gold-plated and picked up 80HP @ the rear wheels.. Just my $0.02...

If U buy a new one and live in California, it needs to have CARB approval.. :mad: :mad: U better sit down when U hear the price.. If not have an out-of-state buddy buy it for U..... Just mt $0.02...

The long piece is crucial to create a suction tunnel for air flow cooling, as the front grille of the TSi/Starion is quite small... Just my $0.02...

A couple of basics to check.. 1. Make sure the thermostadt is clocked properly in the water outlet housing, if not the water flow can be restricted 2. If the thermostadt is >3-4 years old replace it with a good quality one, cheap insurance 3. Make sure your radiator is clear, pull it and have it rotted out as the tubes can accumulate certain sediments that restrict water flow & cooling 4. In my TSi, I chucked the (2) electric OE fans and installed a shroud/15" mechanical fan. With all of the electrical issues these cars have, why trust the cooling system integrity to sensors/relays/connectors that are >30 years old My TSi runs < 185 degrees in 90+ plus SoCal hot days in stop/go traffic with the AC on.. Just my $0.02...

Will try and take some pix... What many may not be aware of.. Some of the Starions with the stepdown engine, came with a mechanical fan & shroud.. Bolts rite up to the TSi/Starion OE radiator, check around these are avaialble on the used parts market.. Note I did replace the replace the 14" OE plastic fan with a 15" inch Derale as well... Total $ investment <$35 and takes about 15 minutes to bolt on. Just my $0.02...

I replaced the OE electric fans/relays with the mechanical fan & shroud 4 years ago, more reliable and runs 15% cooler in the hot SoCal climate.. Just my $0.02...

Autozone carries tension bearing/pulley as a complete assembly. The part # for the Starion/Conquest is 89036, usually around $22. Another # is Dynaflex 231036. Also note that Nissans also use the same part #.. For reference the Mitsu # is MB239728. Hope that helps. Just my $0.02..

Lets kleer the air.. Detonation is also closely related to.. 1. Timing, amount of advance & RPM curve 2. Engine/head temperature Just my $0.02..

Lets clarify this subject.. The injectors are fired by the CPU, and the battery voltage has to go through certain series resistors to lower the firing voltage/current similar to how a conventional iginition system worked with a ballast resistor. The issue is that just calling an injector low impedance has no guarantee to equal the operation of Mitsu OE injectors. The purpose of the injector resistors is to limit the current to the injectors. Note that the Mitsu OE injectors are a specific impedance so that their operating voltage/current meets the factory specifications, to function properly with the CPU. Aftermarket injectors are typically 2-4 Ohms.. One can better understand this by recalling Ohm's law a small difference in impedance can/will change how the injector functions due to different operating voltage/current. In my TSi, I was running the Trilogy replacement injectors and even though the engine ran fine during acceleration, @ idle it had a certain uneven twitch making a rough idle. While kleening the garage, I found my original Mitsu OE injectors since we build performance engines and muscle cars I have access to certain specialized equipment including an injector kleening machine. I ran my injectors through the kleening process and swapped these into my TSI replacing the Triology injectors. I was very surprised to find that my idle smoothed out significantly. Thats why in my opinion... It is always best to use OE parts when available such as injectors, temp and oil sensor sending units. Though these parts are getting extremely difficult to source, I am able to get these directly from Japan when I travel abroad. Just my $0.02...

I have the manual.. If someone needs an electronic copy, PM me ur email address and I will email U the PDF file. Just my $0.02...

Keep in mind that a fuel injector has an impedance(ohms) for its internal coil mechanism... The OE injectors have a known impedance(ohms), the aftermarket injectors can/will have a different impedance. The Mitsu CPU sends a certain voltage to the injector to function/fire, if the impedance(ohms) is different the current/voltage to the injector will vary. This impedance difference is not as critical once the accelerator is being pushed but @ idle it is crucial. A mismatched injector impedance to the CPU will cause a rough idle... Whenever possible, run OE injectors.. Just my $0.02...

Why use unreliable, expensive sensors & relays.. Just install a shroud and fan from a non-intercooler starion/conquest. I revised my TSi 3 years ago, and have had no issues, typical average running temperature in slow SoCal LA traffic and 95 degrees outside is 175 degrees (F). Just my $0.02...

Just got a unit in great condition!! Thank U.. Starquest..

Looking for a good, kleen working condition unit. No broken tabs. PM me if U have 1. Thnx.

Some of U may not be aware, that Standard Motor Parts (# TH249) has a limited number of OE TPSs' available from RockAuto for about $160... Complete with harness & connector... We have installed (2) of these and they work fine, once calibrated. Just my $0.02..

I have one, clutch plus Mitsu fan.. Great shape, used very little, on car for < 3 months... $40 plus shipping. PM me your email I will send U a picture. Just my $0.03..

Mitsu OE TPS sold. Thnx. Just my $0.05..

Most electrical problems are related to bad and/or corroded connections.. A complete system kleenup, pull the battery, kleen all terminals, koat with dialectric grease. Be sure to get the connections below the fuse-link panel.. My other suggestion is to ditch the standard battery and go with a quality AGM type battery, as they don't give off the toxic fumes which oxidizes the connection. Using a standard battery and putting those crucial electric connections beside it was not a good idea by MItsu.. Just my $0.05...