jabbott126 Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 what is the torque spec for screwing the head stud into the block?Also if i have a brand new head does anything need to be done to it to run a MLS head gasket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 who makes a G54B MLS? http://www.sqperformance.com/forum/index.php?topic=24.0 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted July 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 Ajusa. Randy sells them on his website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 only snug the lightly oiled studs into the head do not overly tighten them they should be removed when removeing a head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 Ajusa is not MLS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted July 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 How is the Ajusa not a MLS? its a 3 layer gasket with 2 metal layers and a composite core. That is what a MLS head gasket is right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 MLS is multiple layers of metal shims. Like the good exhaust manifold gasket.The only HG Ajusa makes for the 2.6 (that Im aware of) is a composite design which they call the "fiber max". Either its still a great gasket. Just not a real MLS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dstar88 Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 why remove the studs when taking off the head Shelby? is it just to make it easier to take the head out of the car? i dont remember if i did that or not when i pulled the head the last time..way to long ago, and i hope it stays that way lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 (edited) If you don't remove the studs it is very easy to scrape, ding and scratch the mating surface, combustion chamber or valves of your head when trying to drop it back over those studs. That could be bad news for all kinds of things. So as a precaution it's a good idea to put the studs in after the head is sitting on the block and to remove them with the block still in place. The dowels that locate the head to the block will get things lined up nicely and then you can screw the studs in. I also remove the studs and clean out the threads of the block every time I pull a head. Better safe than sorry I say Edited July 7, 2013 by psu_Crash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dstar88 Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 ahh got it.. come to think of it...i dont think i took the studs out the last time..if i have to do it again ill do it that way. seems more simple as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Never take mine out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Never take mine out. Cause you have the Skill of removing the head without damage! Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Cause you have the Skill of removing the head without damage! Dad Yep, I was thinking the same thing. A lot of experienced members are good enough to use them as guides to put the head back on. But at the same time, I appreciate Shelby pointing out to others that may not know the chance of damaging a set of ARPs. Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 If you don't remove the studs it is very easy to scrape, ding and scratch the mating surface, combustion chamber or valves of your head when trying to drop it back over those studs. That could be bad news for all kinds of things. So as a precaution it's a good idea to put the studs in after the head is sitting on the block and to remove them with the block still in place. The dowels that locate the head to the block will get things lined up nicely and then you can screw the studs in. I also remove the studs and clean out the threads of the block every time I pull a head. Better safe than sorry I say thank you my kind sir and your not worried so much about doing damage to the head when removeing it,,why take the chance or destroying the surface of a brand new or freshly resurfaced head ,, sure don't take all that long to spin them out and back in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Cause you have the Skill of removing the head without damage! Dad HAHAHA, should that be considered a skill? Or a hint that Im doing something else wrong?? HAHAHA I agree, to each their own. Just be sure if you pull the studs when pulling the head, that you COMPLETELY clean out the holes prior to re-install. You dont want any fluid trapped down in there. Pulling the studs prolly makes maneuvering over the cam gear a little easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 90 to 100 psi Torque on ARP Headstuds. Use a Assembly lube on the studs. Oil or Assembly lube is recommended. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dstar88 Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 both ways make sense to me. never done the stud removal way im sure. but i give it a shot next time around if i ever have to do work to the head or anything again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 one thing you do not want is for the studs to freeze in the block,, they can be hell to remove , so for that reason alone it makes sense to remove and clean threads and holes out ,,and do not install studs dry ,, lighly oil the threads or as I have done on a block that seemed to have a coolant leak into that thread hole,, use rtv around the threads , it'll seal the leak and aid in later removeal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC_99 Posted July 13, 2013 Report Share Posted July 13, 2013 (edited) 90 to 100 psi Torque on ARP Headstuds. Use a Assembly lube on the studs. Oil or Assembly lube is recommended. Bill That is the torque spec for tightening the nuts in place when torqueing the head down. Do not try to torque the studs into the block. Like stated above, lube the threads and run them in finger tight. BC_99 Edited July 13, 2013 by BC_99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 I put the studs in first. Than clean off any lube that comes out. I do not want any lube getting between my gasket and the head and block. If you take the cam out it is easer to get the head past the cam gear. Makes it lighter also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 BTW the torque spec is 90 lbs with ARP lube.. not any other lube. There is a torque if you use 30 weight oil but I don't have that at the moment. assembly lube is not the same as arp moly lube. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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