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BC_99

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Everything posted by BC_99

  1. Thanks for all of the support guys. I will certainly post up some price lists for different parts...etc. First things first....I need to figure out a blasting cabinet, as I have always just used the one at work. I will continue to move forward and see where the Lord leads me. I will be doing a new post with powder coating as a complete service offered in the near future with prices, options, colors, etc. BC_99
  2. Thanks guys. I got the monster upright and on some dollies this afternoon. http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/powder%20coating/20151113_185850_zpsz1tqqz2g.jpg http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/powder%20coating/20151113_185812_zpsos2sfvyt.jpg http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/powder%20coating/20151113_190059_zpsdxilza6b.jpg http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/powder%20coating/20151113_190109_zpssx1zqydn.jpg BC_99
  3. Yep, that's the plan. I hope to be ready for a trial run in a week or so. I've done a couple of g54 valve covers so far. I bead blast everything I powder coat first. Used cast aluminum engine parts are tricky. They retain oil even after hot tanking. I learned (the hard way) that the first thing after a good scrubbing to do with them, is to just put them in the oven at 500 degrees for about 45 minutes to burn out any residual oil left in the aluminum. Then bead blast and hot tank and then powder coat. The hot tank has an ultrasonic function that takes care of any bead blasting dust or residue. I need a little more info on the milling the lettering, you referred to. PM me to discuss it, if you still have any interest. Now for my update. My termination date got moved back an extra month. So, I will have a job until around Christmas. I have talked with a few other teams, but nothing has happened yet. In the meantime, I have been spending most of my spare time working late to finish my oven. I wasn't sure what to expect when I started it, but I'm very pleased with the end result. I loaded it on the truck and brought it home today. I hope to have it up and running within the next 2 weeks. Here are a few pictures of it laying on the pallet in my shop. http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/powder%20coating/20151112_160342_zps5my4wcry.jpg http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/powder%20coating/20151112_160418_zpsetijurvd.jpg It's pretty big. BC_99
  4. CinQuest was one of the first turbo'd LS swaps that I know of. He ran it making upwards of 500hp top the rear tires for a few years before he finally killed the stock rear. I think he pumped it up even more after he fabbed in a viper rear diff. Here is the only link I found for his car on this site. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=122529#entry1191057 Heres a link for a write up I found on Google. http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/turp-0808-1987-chrysler-conquest/ You should be fine with the stock rear for a while. BC_99
  5. One quick search shows 4 different rear louvers that have been for sale in the last 6 months for $100 or less. Chassispuke was selling new in box aftermarket louvers for $300 shipped. BC_99
  6. You got ripped off, man. I paid $100 for mine. Not trying to be a jerk or ruin your sales, but just want to give you some perspective. Maybe someone else would pay that much....but I doubt it. BC_99
  7. Those engines are almost always paired with auto trans. You will need a flywheel clutch bell housing from a jz motor and an r154 trans. The one from a soarer has the correct shifter location. The rear diff on you car should be fine. They can handle a lot of abuse. Start with getting the engine and all in there and running etc. Then start figuring your turbo setup. BC_99
  8. Ive ridden in Scotty Gibb's n/a 1uz w58 car.....wow is all I can say. Looks like it was in there from the factory, It is docile enough for cruising, but gets up and goes like crazy when he nailed it. I can only imagine it boosted, however I would recommend using the r154 instead of the w58 if you boost it. Plus...its an all aluminum 4.0 v-8, so it doesn't make the car nose heavy like other big cid swaps. BC_99
  9. Stesir, I have been powder coating small stuff for awhile. I am just upgrading my capacity. If you have any needs or specific questions concerning this, pm me. T.Cary, I would love to get closer to the beach. I would love to find a job scuba diving for a living. But, our families are all here. My wife is doing well in her job, so moving isn't an option. I have a plan in mind for a career change if I don't have any solid leads in racing by Dec. Thanks everyone for the kind words. Life happens, it's how you face the adversity that determines the kind of person you are. BC_99
  10. Wow, real nice shelby. You were sick and I wished you well. Now, I have a problem in life, not of my making, and you show your class. Cool man. Thanks Phil, there are several folks in the area hydrodipping. I am not looking to make a career of this. Just keep myself busy while I determine the next step in life. BC_99
  11. Yeah it stinks, but I figure I have 2 options... 1. Dwell on it and get depressed and feel sorry for myself....or 2. Consider it an opportunity to move on to a new adventure. I choose option 2. God doesn't close one door without opening another. BC_99
  12. So....as a lot of you know, I work as a fabricator for a professional race team and have worked for the same team for the last 10 1/2 years. Well, I found out early this fall that my team is shutting down. So, I am out of a job. I have done my due diligence and put together my resume (for the first time in 15 years) and have distributed it to most of the other teams. The problem is, there are 200+ people also doing the same thing, and I am in direct competition with all of them for potential jobs. The sport cannot absorb that many people without some new teams opening up, so I have been creating some backup plan scenarios. One of those plans involves powder coating. I have been powder coating for myself and a few other small jobs for about a year. I have been using a normal house oven that I bought last year off of craigslist. It works, but it is tough to do a lot with, and I can't even fit a wheel in it....so.......it's time for an upgrade. I found this write up online and am well on my way to having something similar that I can work with. http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html#.VhwjzZT3arX I'm pretty excited about the progress so far. I started building the frame at in my shop at home and then took the pieces to work and began skinning it. http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/powder%20coating/20151001_212502_zpsfyn9fr6y.jpg http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/powder%20coating/20151003_143833_zpsokjrh3ef.jpg http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/powder%20coating/20151026_174107_zpsbzl4chxy.jpg So, that's what I have been up to lately. BC_99
  13. Ok homie, I sent money's for 2 sets (as a gift to save the fees etc.). I know your good for em lol. Sorry for the delay, but life has gotten kinda complicated lately. BC_99
  14. It could easily be turbo seals. If it is a head related issue, it's not the end of the world. They are easy to source and change. I will suggest that you start soaking all of the turbo and exhaust manifold nuts and bolts with a pb blaster or some other rust busting lube. I prefer ballistol lube for the job if you can find it. BC_99
  15. He isn't on here much anymore. Try on Facebook, Mark Burton Wade. He has repaired and restored several sets of 3 pc air dams. BC_99
  16. Burton is your best get for completing you're existing airdam set. Nikofab for new 88-89... Unless you find an OEM from someone. BC_99
  17. Help yourself out, and be more descriptive with what you want. New, used, 88-89 one piece, 87 older 3 piece, flatty, fatty???...we can't read your mind man. BC_99
  18. Tim, Seriously man, take a step back. We've had plenty of good transactions between us, but the truth is that I have heard of a few people that weren't happy with the "customer service" side of their deals with you. It is what it is man. As vendors, we aren't going to be able to please everyone, but dragging this on isn't going to help your business or this community. You guys need to just accept that you don't agree and leave your differences elsewhere. You haven't found a solution to this by now, so you probably won't ever. No need for you guys to keep rehashing it over and over. BC_99
  19. http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv30/cecollins82/IMG_engine_zpsjtjvty0u.jpg BC_99
  20. They have to be SHPs? I may have some....lemme check. BC_99
  21. It takes 2 to have the argument, homie. I do hear what you are saying though man....and have heard similar from others also. No need to keep the drama going is the main thing for me. BC_99
  22. Ahhhhh, the new owner of Scotty's T80. Congrats on that beauty!!! That baby is THE super rare (Unicorn) piece of SQ history. You have no idea how many times I had to talk myself out of buying it from him. Great car! BC_99
  23. Ahhh, makes sense now. Yeah a longer braided line is how I plumb my mechanical gauge. I never trust plastic or copper for this. BC_99
  24. JW, I asked him to post the info also. That point is valid and had been reiterated a few times. But the pissing matches and "he said, she said" stuff needs to go away. Settle your issues with each other and your previous transactions, via PMs with a moderator included in the conversations to be y'alls referee. If you have some feedback concerning a previous transaction that you think other members might benefit from, we have a forum for that. The statement is meant for all of the guys that have issues with this vendor AND the vendor alike. BC_99
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