NudeLobster Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 I've idled it for a cumulitive 30 minutes, maybe less so far and the lifters just won't shut up. never had this problem before and I don't know where to go from here. same top end on my old motor and never made noise then. We had a little trouble getting number 1 exhaust valve to pressurize but after clearing the little hole on top with a ground down paper clip we got it to shoot oil out. What do I do? the lifters never had shims in them before and when the engine shop assembled the head they didnt use any either. It sounds like the number one exhaust is one of them ticking...can't distinguish if there are multiples. It's loud though. blah. thanks,-Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 what oil filter are you using? I read years ago where a member was having trouble with his air filter causing oil aeration. youve run this cam without lifter shims and it didnt tick before? hope you get it figured out. Mine were always extremely loud with my schieder 274h on hyd lifters, so i switched to mechanical and they quieted down (but they're still louder than hyd should be). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alp247 Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 mine did that and i just drove it around the block and it went away. I guess the slight load built up pressure in the lifters. i am using 20w -50 oil though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 yeah Justin has 5W30 with some zinc additive in the engine now... NAPA Gold filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 I just rev the hell out of it until it's quiet. individual results may vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tux Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 were they pre-loaded ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DurbenQuest Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 (edited) Id say drive it and do a small pull to get them oiled up. My mechanical lifters make some noise too. at and under 1500 RPM. but above it goes away. I should probably adjust my valve lash tho. its been quite some time, but I also have a Schneider 292 cam... Edited June 25, 2012 by DurbenQuest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Oil pressure is independent of load. It does change with RPM though. I have an oil pressure gauge and it's high at start up when the oil is thick and cold. It's also high when rpms are high. It gets close to 100psi by 3000 rpm or so. I also have a balance shaft elimination kit so that bumps it up a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) What exactly are you running? You didn't post about a high lift Camshaft? Or, if you replaced with new, and primed the hydraulic lifters. If you don't give us the full story....It is kind of hard to help you Bill Edited June 26, 2012 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 ^^^^ What Cal said... stock cam, new or used lifters, Are you sure they are hydraulic shafts? lifters uside down? Intake/ exhaust rockers swapped? They get the installed height of the valve right? Speak to us. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) ^^^^ What Cal said... stock cam, new or used lifters, Are you sure they are hydraulic shafts? lifters uside down? Intake/ exhaust rockers swapped? They get the installed height of the valve right? Speak to us. Dad Agreed!!! Was this a full engine rebuild, or just a cylinder head replacement? As i am sure Dad will agree on this: On a new engine rebuild you don't just let it idle. Upon initial start up the engine should be kept at 1500 rpms for 10 to 15 minutes. During this time you should have the hood open with someone, perhaps a friend looking with a flashlight for oil and coolant leaks. Then without shutting it off, take the car out on the road and run it through the gears at maximum shift points, WITHOUT BOOSTING!!!! for another 10 minutes. Then.....Park it. And let it cool down completely (Heat soak). Change the engine oil and oil filter at 100,500 and 1000 miles intervals ( use thin oil 10/30wt or the like) with NO BOOSTING for the first 500 miles. Can't keep your foot out of the boost? Disconnect the Turbocharger. P.S. I use shims on a high lift Roller cam with 1.6 ratio Roller Rockers. So, you may...or may not need them. The shop that set up your cylinder head should know that. Good Luck,Bill Edited June 26, 2012 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I just rev the hell out of it until it's quiet. individual results may vary. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Bill, you are so wrong. You are talking about an imaginary break in method recommended by people who write warranties. The OP is talking about noisy lifters. You get more oil pressure with more RPM, simple as that. If it doesn't work, maybe something is wrong, but letting it idle won't pump them up. Now, if you don't show the engine as much load as you can in the first few minutes after initial start up, the rings won't ever seat all that well and you'll be left with an engine that doesn't perform as well as it could. Also, if you build an engine right, it will withstand hundreds and hundreds of horsepower for hundreds and hundreds of pulls from 1000rpm to 7000rpm or whatever your redline is. No need for "light duty." A proper break in is a WOT pull down the drag strip. Done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strang3majik Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 ^^^Very true. My dad has broken in all his engines by beating the crap out of them. Never had a failure and they all run like raped apes. But...my top end makes noise too. A lot of noise. I actually wonder if maybe I am getting oil but my lifters aren't pumping up..........all of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NudeLobster Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) This is a top end off my old engine that i ran for a week with no noise or anything. It's an unknown cam from FLATBROKE13- he disappeared off the forum before i could get specs. 1mm OS SS valves, titanium springs, retainers, hydro lifters (I assume stock). They ran quite and fine 2 months ago. He ran the head for 650 miles too. Once the valve tick goes away im going to make sure its at temp and then retorque head studs hot, then reassemble and go drive it no boost for 100 miles, an oil change at 500 miles, and thats it. it idles high due to the MAFT tune so it idles at roughly 1500-1700 rpm by itself anyways, so thats the rpm it was at for the time. Tomorrow im going to hold revs at 3000ish for 90-120 seconds to see if higher oil pressure can help shut em up. BSE now so at start up i had 3/4 gauge oil pressure and after warming up it dropped to just about half mark. the rebuild was done on a non-spun 60-70k mile block- arp rod studs, new rings, polished crank, balanced assembly, BSE, 2 thousands off the head, head and valve train cleaned and pressure tested, block was in spec, ajusa head gasket, honed cylinder with minor shadowing at the tops (2 thousands was the highest value they could measure in the shadows) , standard rings, standard bearings. i think thats everything it has 5-30w shell conventional oil with lucus rebuilt engine break-in (with zinc) additive, and napa gold premium filter -Justin edit: I had a tech watch the engine bay at start up for leaks. caught an oil leak that sprung after the first 5 mins from the turbo feed line at the filter block. took care of it and it idled for 10 mins no leaks and i shut it down after the valves wouldn't shut up for fear of damage or something like that. If its okay to drive with the ticking lifters, I'll just get it to temp tomorrow with idle, retorque head studs, and go drive it and see if the lifters quite up. what mile/time limit should i stop at if they don't quite up? I can't imagine that loud smacking is doing good on the cam or lifters... Edited June 26, 2012 by NudeLobster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Isnt 5 30w for new cars...tighter clearances...I use 20/50w castrol oil ..because i think the thicker the oil the better the protection...ive put over 40000 miles on 2 diffrent starquest cars ....and no break downs..id rather get 1 mile less per gallen and have more protection ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NudeLobster Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Isnt 5 30w for new cars...tighter clearances...I use 20/50w castrol oil ..because i think the thicker the oil the better the protection...ive put over 40000 miles on 2 diffrent starquest cars ....and no break downs..id rather get 1 mile less per gallen and have more protection ...I used 20w50 in my old engine too, but that had miles on it. When brand new with factory spec clearances the cars manual calls for 10w30. I'll probably work my way up to 20w50 by 70k miles. run 10w30 synthetic after a couple thousand on 5w30 conventional. -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance_S Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Pull it apart and make sure you don't have one upside down. Sounds crazy but it's worth a look. Also, make sure they are compressed when they go in. They will pump up on their own. Also make sure you don't have an exhaust leak, they sound just like lifters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) Justin,,, didn't you say that this motor got real hot??? the lifters may just be stuck and need either replaced or pulled apart and soaked. than reinstall them and try it.... seriously pull them out as far as they can go they may just be stuck in the collapsed position. Edited June 26, 2012 by wrngwae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMNDSTAR87 Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 make sure the oil holes in the rocker shafts are lined up with lifters or they wont oil properly----if ur shop that did the head did not know the shafts can be put back in wrong and lifters do not get the oil they need---there are dimples on the end of the shafts that need to line up with the knotches in the front cam journals---easy to check--gig out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 What part of NEVER run 5w oil in this motor do you people not understand? Doesn't haveanythingto do withage, its about the design of the system. All Mitsubishi engine specs for this motor say to not use 5w oil and that it will cause NOISES. The secondpartofyournoises are from the O/S valves and the HD springs. Those springs and perhaps the cam profile let the larger valve slap closed harder and y ou can hear them especially with a header. If some boob mashed the lifters in a vise to collapse them, they are ruined. Try cleaning them the proper way but get that 5w oil out of there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sellerfeller Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) tha MAFT tune shouldn't affect the idle that much as to hold it at 1500-1700 rpm. is the CTS wired correctly? could be a bad CTS or improper tps, MPS, adjustment. fix this and make sure timing is correct after you get it to idle proper. it might help the ticking if preload isn't causing most of it. Edited June 27, 2012 by sellerfeller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 I saw a bad news facebook update. Hope it's not that bad Justin. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 (edited) Bill, you are so wrong. You are talking about an imaginary break in method recommended by people who write warranties. The OP is talking about noisy lifters. First off....We don't know what in the hell the poster is talking about. Maybe you do, but the way the post heading was worded...I DON'T." First start up on rebuild and hydro lifters" What do you read into that? Engine, Cylinder Head? Second, Maybe the Engine break-in advice I gave is wrong to you. Well, since 2005 my Starion has not had any problems pertaining to the way I broke the Engine Rebuild in. It is not a "imaginary" Engine break in method invented by the auto industry.....It is a proven fact that has worked many times for me in my engine break in experiences and has been suggested by experienced Engine builders for a long time Bill Edited June 27, 2012 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 (edited) Bill, you are so wrong. You are talking about an imaginary break in method recommended by people who write warranties. The OP is talking about noisy lifters. Edited June 27, 2012 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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