tux

Ultimately, it will be up to you what you decide and what you choice should be inline with your goal

Just make sure to route after maf and before turbo

I picked up some of Jan’s stuff. i wanted to send him my jdm louvers to have them cast but i don’t trust shippers enough for something i will never find again and if i do they wouldn’t be new in box

I’m running a vintage hks bpv. The air recirculates after maf but before the turbo inlet. Here’s an example of a bov that can recirculate https://tialsport-outlet.com/products/tialsport-qr-series-recirculating-blow-off-valve-1-1

So, with a MAF setup the classic knowledge is you have all this metered air, that is now gone. The ECU doesn’t know that air is gone so you’ll end running rich, throwing off your AFR’s. I run a BPV on my stock setup. Note there’s many BOV’s that can be plumbed to recirculate essentially activing as a bypass valve, if you use a bov as recirculating or use a bpv, you should just plumb that air back in after the MAF. My take is that this doesn’t matter that much for fueling, but the work was already performed to compress that air, so if you care about spool, put the air back. Rally cars recirculate to help keep the spool going.

Perfect thank you! my heater hose barbs are mangled so I may be forced to come up with a a way to have bulkhead 90 elbows anyway

oh @techboyi see on DSMtuners you have a 99 dsm is the cam sensor on the 99 slimmer than a 1g CAS?

The kiggly is for the crank, the Kia one bolts to wher me the 1g dsm CAS goes but it’s super thin. I spoke with a buddy who was a Kia tech and he said there was an exciter ring but he doesn’t remember if it was pressed onto the cam or if it was bolted on. he checked with the parts guy and they could not find any info. shame there’s no pick a parts anywhere near where I could check. i think I could just block off the sensor location and use wasted spark. But ya know… if you do something do it right

Yes, I’m planning to do the kiggly crank trigger and figure out a solution for cam home. That’s why I’m looking for options like that Kia sensor (uses a g4cp engine based on 4g6x). It’s super slim, but I’m not sure how it’s triggered. I found the FSM for he kia, and it completely ignores that sensor And I hear you. I wish i didn’t already start down this road. 4g6x parts are harder than I thought would be to come by and more expensive than i thought, given how popular this darn engine was. For my 4g54, i went with a modified distributor shafted mated to an AEM EPM, which allowed me to do sequential.

Ya I’m wondering about solutions that don’t involve a custom drive shaft. i think a 2gb cas may work or some other solution. im going to be cutting off the throttle body flange to clear the booster

I found this Kia sensor from their DOHC Sirius variant, I wonder if it can work for the cam phase. I'm not sure if it requires a trigger wheel of some kind though or if it reads a magnet embedded in their cam.

I’m putting together a 4G64/4G63 hybrid for a RWD Starion swap and have a few CAS / trigger questions that I haven’t been able to find a clear, first-hand answer to. Setup: • Wide-block 4G64 (Asia-sourced short block) • 1G 4G63 DOHC head (bare head) • RWD application (Starion chassis) • Bosch DBW Throttlebody • Honda K-Series smart coils • MaxxECU Race ECU • Still sourcing cams, lifters, cam pulleys, timing components, rockers, pistons, rods, etc From what I’ve read, the 1G CAS on the back of the intake cam may interfere with the firewall in a Starion. Some posts say it will hit unless the engine is moved forward and a custom driveshaft is made, while others say it does clear but is very tight. Questions: 1 Has anyone here run a 1G CAS on a DOHC head in a Starion without moving the engine forward? If so, how tight is the clearance in practice? 2 Are there alternative cam/crank trigger setups that work cleanly with a 1G head in a RWD chassis? 3 I understand the 2G CAS won’t work on a 1G head — but can a 2G crank trigger/sensor be adapted to a wide-block 4G64 for engine position, with a different cam signal? 4 What are people actually running for crank + cam phase on this combo when firewall clearance is a concern? I’m open to OEM DSM / Hyundai / Kia solutions or aftermarket trigger setups, just trying to understand the real-world options before committing to engine placement. Pictures are greatly appreciated. Thanks — any firsthand experience is appreciated

Occasionally you see one in Seinfeld parked on the street

Oh man that’s a pipe dream

Same to you!

I remember the post that’s why I bought from them a number of years ago

I doubt they are a wholesaler but https://blineperformance.com/ Goodridge I believe is a wholesaler

Yes, but you need to buy through a proxy. the proxy increases the cost and shipping options to the US are kind of limited

I first them on that Japanese RB swapped Starion and checked yahoo auctions daily for about a year until I saw an unbroken set edit here it is https://www.speedhunters.com/2017/01/drift-rb26-swapped-starion/

Not sure why, but I like these better than the US markers https://photos.app.goo.gl/ASKLYuGQPfA1Qqa86

Yes please!

Welcome back!

Great info, thanks Kev! might be best to get a trans and rebuild it and unload mine later

thanks Kev. I assume I'll have to measure the input bearing before I order since there is a 21mm and 24mm option. Still curious about the AZ6 but best I can do is what I have already done: download some models. It looks like it may fit the tunnel, but who knows

I'm in need of a rebuild kit for a 87 KM132. Anyone know where to find one? Not sure if the D50 version rebuild kit would work for me or not. Other option I was thinking is maybe swapping in an Aisin 6 trans, but not sure the dimensions of it compared to the km132. From what I can tell it's a pretty small transmission.