tux

I agree, but I kind of wish 17” and 18” were a thing in the 80’s. Then they would be extra perfect

For what I’ve used ChatGPT for it’s been hit or miss. my prompts always start with ”you are an expert in such and such field, I am requesting advice that has been well researched. Do not hallucinate or fabricate anything that you are not the expert in. Please cite all sources.” Then I ask my question with as much detail as possible

The input shaft of the trans goes into that bearing.

Chatgpt is ok for some stuff and terrible for other things. I have found it makes stuff up often. I was doing market research and gave it a bunch of PDF's and it made the wildest claims (all unsubstantiated) and couldn't cite it's source for decisions.

It’d be cool if I found one of them just laying around

I fill with the coolant funnel thing, run until t-stat opens, squeeze the top radiator hose a few times. Wait a while, then close and remove funnel

Oh wait I didn’t notice the factory radio look was too small on the phone. Thats sick. i went with a android auto with an older looking radio skin, but that’s awesome.

I did the same with the head unit. I had a period correct Fujitsu 10 but convenience trumps period correctness

I thought one end was attached to the coil and that capacitor is used as a noise filter

I have the hks inlet piping, it's stamped with HKS. I don't think the hard pipes are hks

none of your links work.

Try pressing the headlight button a little and holding it and see if they go down

Double check that the button to raise them with no lights isn’t pushed or (or thinks it is) my one car I need to push the headlight button and hold it for them to raise and push again and hold for them to go down

Sucks, but you can fix it! at least your kid is ok

Then not the struts. Check for that ball bearing then

Do your taillights work?

You can get your stocker fixed up at a radiator shop. there is a griffin that “fits” but I found it didn’t really and just had my stock one rodded

More fuel for more boost. with a 14g at stock boost levels you should be fine with the stock fpr. i would confirm against a wideband o2 when making changes

Hey Nico! glad to hear from you and hope you’re doing well!

In case anyone else is interested I got the MK60E5, appears to need a pretty specific type of ABS sensory and a yaw sensor as the only external requirements. There is a module sold by happy cactus that will let you use passive hall or VR wheel speed sensors. It's not clear to me how I'll grab wheel speed signals from all four corners yet. I think I have an idea for the rear to get a tone-ring on there. Not sure about the front wheels yet.

Maybe the car they used to mock it up was tweaked a bit

I found a standalone Teves mk60e abs module from a 2008 bmw M3. Was decently priced so I picked it up. Waiting for it to come from eBay. Based on my reading the m3 model is flashable which I probably won’t do. It also may be a contained unit (no external pressure sensors required, hopefully). The abs unit is completely stand alone, 4 channel, and reportedly performs very well in many applications. I’ll be working on bench testing the unit and figuring out a way to get a vss input from each wheel. It’s not clear to me if it needs VR, MR, or Hall sensors. If anyone knows much about bmw lmk! I pulled the factory abs out of my mpi car.

For sure. I don’t want to pay for a gps module just for vehicle speed. I’d rather 20cents in components and grab the signal from the cluster. i may try to retrofit a mk60 abs module into the car at some point, but that would be a forever project for me.. probably

I use one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/23-gallon-manual-fluid-extractor-62643.html

Input into my aem for hi idle, 2 step and boost targets based on which gear I’m in. it determines the gear I’m in based on rpm and vehicle speed.