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No oil pressure...rebuilt engine


strang3majik
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To start off, I don't remember priming the oil pump...I did everything else, must've skipped that step...but I've seen engines be put together without that being done before without issue...so...

 

on to the problem...

 

Spent about 2 minutes cranking the engine with the coil wire off, and probably close to another 2 or 3 trying to diagnose a no spark issue after hooking everything back up. Nothing registered on the gauge, but, its an extra sensor I had laying around, so, it may not be good.

 

So, cranked it again, started right up...idled perfectly at 800rpms...too perfect for nothing being adjusted yet...but anyway...idled nice but tapping like a $%^&.

 

After about 10 sec...shut the key off...for some reason the turbo timer kicked on and it took a few button presses to get it to shut off (no idea how to use it...lol)

 

Anyway...after that I checked the filter, turbo feed line, and oil cooler lines...bone dry.

 

Any ideas? Talking with a friend he was saying to fill the filter as best I can and try and fill the oil cooler and crack the lines to see if maybe it was just an air pocket...but I would've thought after all that it should've been pumping...

 

 

Thoughts? I reused the oil pump and oil pressure before was about 3/4 on the gauge...now I have nothing. I did pull it apart and check it but all looked great and within spec.

 

I'm at a loss and kinda upset my newly put together engine has no oil pressure :/

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O-Ring on the pickup tube, or you didn't prime the oil pump well enough. You could drop the pan, and undo the pickup tube, and THEN shot some heavy weight oil up there. Or try to push some Vaseline up there.
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Ah...well...looks like I may be pulling the pan :/

 

If its of any help...we doused the cylinders and bearings/rods etc in oil upon assembly, not that it would've stayed there long after running it...but at least something was there...

 

Ugh...luckily I got an extra pan gasket.

 

The pan can be pulled in the car, right?

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I guess I'll be giving it a shot. :/

 

I swear, since I've owned this car its been a pain...hell even mating the engine and trans took a few hours...let alone hooking everything else up.

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yes it can. I've had luck in the past taking the oil filter off and slipping a hose over the spindle and pouring oil down to the pump that way. But yes the pan can come off in the car.

 

Please elaborate...lol

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Use a pump oil can with a hose attached and prime it where this hose is connected.

 

http://www.enginemachineservice.com/prime1.jpg

 

 

 

Dad

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Ok...thank you...haha. And should I spin the engine over backwards to suck the oil in?

 

 

Coke has me thinking I may have used the wrong one. :/ Which may be the cause of all my issues...potentially?

 

 

EDIT: Dad, would you recommend the filter spindle way or the outlet you showed? Or both?

Edited by strang3majik
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Not much to elbaorate on. Find a piece of hose that goes over the spindle, use a hose clamp on the spindle and slowly pour oil down that hose.

 

This is what I'll be doing! We have shop air, but no oiler... :unsure:

 

-Justin

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Not much to elbaorate on. Find a piece of hose that goes over the spindle, use a hose clamp on the spindle and slowly pour oil down that hose.

 

what spindle are you talking about?

 

I dont have air here and I had the same issue. I removed that plug that DAD shows and i stuck a vacuum hose in the hole, than ran it up to a funnel.. It took forever it seemed but I got it to prime ok . Keep you head up man, its only a motor.

Edited by NotStock88
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You should NEVER EVER spin a G54B over backwards. Unless you would like to re-time the chain when your done.

 

AND yes, the "TURBO" oil pump gasket has the tear-drop shaped cut out, much like the one you sent me the picture of, laying on your car. It's supposed to be in the engine, not there. lol Using the wrong one will cause all sorts of problems.

Edited by Coke
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what spindle are you talking about?

 

I dont have air here and I had the same issue. I removed that plug that DAD shows and i stuck a vacuum hose in the hole, than ran it up to a funnel.. It took forever it seemed but I got it to prime ok . Keep you head up man, its only a motor.

 

What he said. I used this method after installing my BSEK. Worked like a charm.

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Cut a hole in the top of an old oil filter and use that for a funnel, pour it full and wait, do that a few times and your pump will have more than enough oil in it to coat the gears and create the low pressure environment to draw in the oil after the engine starts.
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I have a rebuilt motor that had about 2500 miles on it before I got it but has been sitting for a few months while I collect some more parts. You think I'll need to prime it before I drop it in?
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I check every pump to make sure it is clean and not scarred up before lubing the gears with assembly lube. I like the thick blood colored stuff that oozes out. I think it is made by Permatex and is what some machinists I know use.

 

Here is a cleaned up quote from a Pretty knowledgable Quester. LoL!:

 

"Follow the FSM and the SOS manual.

(FSM says squirt 10cc of engine oil in-it...better to use a THICKER oil, STP? won't drain-off!)

 

Using "Bearing Guard" to lube the bearings & PRIME, the oil pump is important.

(crank, all-day-long...nothing will be damaged)

 

The SUCTION-SIDE, of the oil pump, is a weak-link, if using a USED pump.

 

Yes, Both gaskets CAN, work. "Tear-drop" is prefered! (also in the SOS)

Never use RTV, or any-other, sealant, on the gasket!

Hope, you used the RIGHT, o-ring, too! Very special size & MATERIAL! (silicone?)

 

Install....1 or 2 or 3 more quarts of oil! This, RISES, the level of the oil, so LESS, suction,

would be required, to PRIME, itself.

 

Crank the engine, until the gauge responds....DRAIN-OUT, the excess oil!

 

You don't really need a pressure-can.

 

Failure...to suggest, "READ THE SOS, ENGINE BUILD...FIRST", would create a disaster-build!

 

Other ways:

 

Use STP, placed-in, a oil, squirt-can. HEAT-IT, on your stove-top.

Remove the plug, on the side-o-da-block...squirt-it-in, there!

(warm/hot STP flows, much quicker...but cools-off on cold engine parts...its sticky!)

 

It shall, drip-on, the rotors, inside the oil pump...eventually!

 

IF...you parked your car (for a week or more) and lost oil pressure:

 

1. The oil pump is trashed!

2. wrong gasket

3. wrong o-ring or not SEATED, correctly. Never install the o-rinng dry!

 

ALWAYS, prime the pump with "Bearing Guard", or like!

$8 squeeze-bottle, can build, a half-dozen, engines!!!

 

Nobody stocking it, then order it in.

 

I Don't like:

Vasoline or Lithium!!

 

Camshaft, break-in-lube (moly) can also work, too.

 

Mechanical cams: Use 10-40w Valvoline (winter use) 20-50w (summer months)

but add a bottle of ZINC+ (from a speed shop)....and HAMMER-DOWN!

 

SOS has: more assembly tips on "BSEK & T-Chains", too!

 

YOU, DON'T NEED, TO DROP THE OIL PAN, TO REGAIN, OIL PRESSURE! BOTTOM LINE!

 

Does...your head, have a oil-plug, on the RH side? Guess what...squirt engine oil in-it!

It leads...direct to the oil pump, to PRIME-IT!

 

Also, if you remove, the RH-front, head bolt....that passage, leads-to the oil pump.

 

Wasting time & effort: filling the oil filter, cooler & hoses, too! It doesn't help." Unquote.

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