spoolinup Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 what oil should i use aka should i put some in the head before start up how long should i run it for. how long should i not get on the new motor hard. what rpms should i stay under for a while. how long till i do a oil change after first start up. any tips for breaking new motor in thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 First start, let it warm up fully while you make any last minute adjustments to timing, etc. Then drive it hard like you stole it for at least 20 miles. Be on and off the gas every 5-10 seconds or so. When letting off don't push in the clutch. Cylinder pressure is what seats the rings. And most of the seating is over after about 20 miles. Running it hard seats the rings properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoolinup Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 what oil should i use durig break in regular 1030 full synth?? whats best Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Don't run synthetic oil in a new engine. Switch to that at your first oil change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieHARDmitsu. Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Most important, the motor needs a good oil priming before initial start up.Use a good non synthetic break in oil, one that has the right amount of ZDDP additive. 10w 30 is fine. I usually use Synthetic after 2500 miles; although, some builders recommend using it after 5000 miles.I don't know about "driving it like you stole it" for the first few miles. I always baby my motors for the first 100 miles then gradually start boosting. Change my oil at 100 then 300 then 700 miles to keep the shavings out.People say the rings will seat better when you drive it hard at first but I refrain from doing this cuz the bottom end bearings, especially the thrust bearing, needs to be gradually broken in. If there is a new cam, clutch and flywheel, all the better to take things easy during the break in period. Just my opinion and way breaking in a motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 (edited) People say the rings will seat better when you drive it hard at first but I refrain from doing this cuz the bottom end bearings, especially the thrust bearing, needs to be gradually broken in. If there is a new cam, clutch and flywheel, all the better to take things easy during the break in period. Just my opinion and way breaking in a motor. That's a myth. The bearings NEVER touch the moving parts. There is no break in period for engine bearings. All the bearings do is set a gap for the oil film. They are made from soft material. If they ever touch moving parts they will be destroyed. Most new cams require you to rev the motor to 3k rpm as soon as the motor is started for the first time. And they need to stay at 3k rpm for awhile. This breaks in the lobes on flat tappet cams. Roller cams don't need any break in. A new HP clutch will survive too. You aren't doing full power launches during break in. And you don't need 30 psi of boost for break in. Stock 7 psi is fine. A good way to break it in is get on the hwy in third gear and floor the gas till 70mph. Then take your foot off the gas (don't push in the clutch) and let it coast to 50 mph. Repeat that for the first 20 miles and the motor will be 95+% broken in. You can permenatly lose HP on your engine by not doing a hard break in. Easy break ins don't seat the rings properly. http://www.mototuneu..._in_secrets.htm Edited February 14, 2012 by ucw458 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Keep the radio off so you can listen for any problems. Dad 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieHARDmitsu. Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 That's a myth. The bearings NEVER touch the moving parts. There is no break in period for engine bearings. All the bearings do is set a gap for the oil film. They are made from soft material. If they ever touch moving parts they will be destroyed. Most new cams require you to rev the motor to 3k rpm as soon as the motor is started for the first time. And they need to stay at 3k rpm for awhile. This breaks in the lobes on flat tappet cams. Roller cams don't need any break in. A new HP clutch will survive too. You aren't doing full power launches during break in. And you don't need 30 psi of boost for break in. Stock 7 psi is fine. A good way to break it in is get on the hwy in third gear and floor the gas till 70mph. Then take your foot off the gas (don't push in the clutch) and let it coast to 50 mph. Repeat that for the first 20 miles and the motor will be 95+% broken in. You can permenatly lose HP on your engine by not doing a hard break in. Easy break ins don't seat the rings properly. http://www.mototuneu..._in_secrets.htmJust stating what has worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Just stating what has worked for me. Not trying to get on your case. Just dispelling the myth that bearings need to be broken in. Why do manufacturers say do an easy break in when many of them blast a new engine at full throttle on a dyno for it's first run? The answer has nothing to do with the engine and everything to do with getting sued. They are just protecting themselves. For example, you just bought a new car and you aren't familiar with it's capabilities. Now say the owners manual says to to a hard break in. You proceed to drive it hard to break in the motor and crash the car. Now you sue because they told you to drive it hard. That tactic has become so engrained in our society that it's become truth to the masses. We've all heard take it easy during break ins since we were little. Hear the same thing from enough people and it becomes truth to you. Even if it's bad advice. What's worse is once the bad advice is accepted by people regarded as experts it becomes very hard to change people's minds. There are thousands of articles talking about easy break in. Yet every race team does a hard break in. Why? Because they want to win. Because a hard break in seats the rings properly and gives them more HP. To give you a real world example take my MPI build. It was a fresh engine. First thing I did after the new engine warmed up was boost it hard up a long and steep mountain pass. Nothing broke. The engine is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance_S Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I'm with UCW on this one. I used to race offshore. Our motors had zero time. With fresh rebuilds we would run straight 40 weight oil on race day, it would idle for 20 to 30 minutes to start the race then it was 6000 rpm for over an hour straight. No break in time on any of our race motors. Don't know any racers that broke in their motors. Now these were professionally built race motors but I don't know if that would make a difference over stock motors. Either way, let it warm up and drive it hard. Usually if something is not setup correctly, it will blow in the first hour anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Yep, hard break-ins are best. If its got a programmable ecu and MPI, trailer it to a dyno and get it tuned there. Driving round like a grandma serves no purpose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 start it up, fix the leaks Smoke the tires leaving your driveway and alternate power and engine braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Taking it uphill and then back down on a pass that is a few miles both ways should do it. Accel and deccel on and off both ways. Pretty much what UCW says. A little boost is good too since the rings will see boost against them their whole life and boost on break-in will help hold them where they will be most of their life when the rings are becoming seated. Not a lot of boost, but some is okay. Oil changes can't hurt either because more fuel is getting past the rings during break-in, which is another reason you don't want much boost. Boost pushes more fuel passed the rings. I really think this is the main reason so many people had problems with Total Seal rings over the years. I've used them on 2 motors with no problems and I know many others who use them on boosted V8's, etc.. with no issues and better sealing than without them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) Any re build is going to have junk floating through the oil.The whole idea behind the non synthetic oil is more than just being mineral or parafin base is need to be "detergent" oil so the junk from the metal that was machined, honed, bored, and resurfaced doesn't imbed into the bearings or clog oil passages. ..and excess blow by and carbon from ring seatting(like Tim_C mentioned) detergent oil suspends the contaminates so they can be removed by the filtration system.you can buy custom filters and inline filters that remove fine particals messured in size by microns. There is a difference between a professional and and amateur and the main point is cleanliness.Some profession engine builders shops rival clean rooms for electronic companies or hospitals,they clean before clean after and clean again.Radius edges custom coatings inspection and attention to details. But you still use detergent oil for break in with zinc additives for older engines and engies with slipper rockers,New / rebuilt engines run a few degrees hotter than engines that have been broken in so the cooling system should be new or like new also turbochargers should be regarded the same and not as a separate, but part of the same system.Tranmissions and the rest of the drive train should be part of this catagory too.. No redlining for at least 2000 miles, no consistent speeds but variance in RPM's and gear ratios.And allow for cool down periods.Keep an eye on drive belts and their tensions. Edited February 24, 2012 by Metric-man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 note, if its a fresh regrind cam do not run the piss out of it, also, run break in oil. otherwise you WILL wipe the cam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 note, if its a fresh regrind cam do not run the piss out of it, also, run break in oil. otherwise you WILL wipe the cam Roller cams have no break in period and no break in lube is needed. Flat tappet cams have a break in period. BUT the cams that get damaged are ones with high lift rocker arms in older domestic engines. Newer flat tappet engines have passages that squirt oil on the cam lobes. Older domestic engines oil the cam with "splash" oiling. Meaning oil gets thrown off the crank onto the cam. For those engines cam manufacturers reccomend running it up to 3k rpm immediatly after the initial start and holding it there for 10-20 minutes while the cam breaks in. By that time the engine is warm and you can drive it hard to seat the rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Roller cams have no break in period and no break in lube is needed. Flat tappet cams have a break in period. BUT the cams that get damaged are ones with high lift rocker arms in older domestic engines. Newer flat tappet engines have passages that squirt oil on the cam lobes. Older domestic engines oil the cam with "splash" oiling. Meaning oil gets thrown off the crank onto the cam. For those engines cam manufacturers reccomend running it up to 3k rpm immediatly after the initial start and holding it there for 10-20 minutes while the cam breaks in. By that time the engine is warm and you can drive it hard to seat the rings. Good point about new cam break-in.re-faced or new rockers should be used on a new or re-surfaced camshaft. And the splash guards/ baffles on the under side the valve cover help direct/ deflect the oil on to the rockers. Plateau cylinder bore finish, knocks down the unfinished fine edges and allows the rings to seat faster. http://www.enginebui...e_finishes.aspxhttp://www.aa1car.co...teau_finish.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Plateau cylinder bore finish, knocks down the unfinished fine edges and allows the rings to seat faster. http://www.enginebui...e_finishes.aspxhttp://www.aa1car.co...teau_finish.htm Yes, I did that to my Total Seal Ring blocks and it is really the main reason I didn't have a problem with sealing them. I still think the break-in had a lot to do with it too, and the time period is longer with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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