89 Quest Build Thread

[dmyers151]

I've been wanting to recirc mine for years now, nice writeup there.

[Frenchi934]

Decided I wanted to upgrade the radio, but really wanted to keep the OEM plus/ factory appearance theme going.

 

Found the PERFECT starquest radio.

 

Its from late92-93 Turbo Stealth/3000gt's.

 

It is a completely bolt in, plug and play affair.

 

Heres a few pictures.

 

Same Dimensions/ face color is very very close (that sparkly gray color)

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/8489/sdc12266c.jpg

 

Same bolt holes in the sides for the brackets, so just reuse your conquest brackets.

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1290/sdc12268f.jpg

 

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2263/sdc12267t.jpg

 

Heres the back. Notice the plugs are exactly the same. Even the small black one for the radio steering wheel controls

 

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7935/sdc12269n.jpg

 

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/6649/sdc12270i.jpg

 

Here it is in the car:

 

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/2576/sdc12282k.jpg

 

Here is a picture of what the lights at night look like. I couldnt get my camera to take a good one in my car

 

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3936/img2963i.jpg

 

Total match. haha. I also picked up a green backlight version that i will be selling. Interestingly enough, the orange version has all GREEN led's on the circuit board, it just simply has a pink film filter that the green light passes through at voodoo happens to make it turn orange.

[Frenchi934]

Also upgraded the fuel pump to a bosch 044 unit.

 

heres a small how-to:

 

NOTE: THIS IS BEST DONE WHEN YOU ARE EXTREMELY LOW ON FUEL... lol. I fought about 5 gallons in my tank the whole time..

 

First, use a jack and a block of wood to help support the tank.

 

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/5675/sdc12286.jpg

 

Next, undo the tank bolts and the filler neck hoses. The filler neck bolts to the tank with three bolts (two shown, one on top)

 

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/9349/sdc12287v.jpg

 

Go ahead and open up the access hole in the trunk. It may help you manipulate the tank and you can use it to reach the third filler neck bolt

 

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/557/sdc12288f.jpg

 

Drop down the tank a bit and locate the hoses that need to be unattached. there are 3 or 4

 

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/5025/sdc12289y.jpg

 

Unattach them, drop the tank down and slide it out behind the car. Then clean your tank (it will likely be filthy) be careful not to get any dust into the filler hole.

 

This is where the fuel pump sucks its fuel out of the tank. I have already removed the pumpbracket and pump in this picture.

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/1272/sdc12290m.jpg

 

Remove the conical filter. It goes in the low pressure side line right before the factory fuel pump.

 

http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/9153/sdc12292k.jpg

 

 

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/551/sdc12291.jpg

 

I then took the screws out of the plate, pulled up the fuel pump pickup and inspected the fuel filter in the tank. After a minimal blow off from the air gun it appeared to be extremely clean. so i re-installed it.

 

Next onto replacing the pump.

 

I cut the two electrical wires going to the pump. Make sure to keep the resistor-looking-thing on the bracket. I believe it is a voltage stabilizer.

 

http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/1268/sdc12294hh.jpg

 

Here, ive already placed the new pump in the OEM bracket. Since its a little bigger diameter you just stretch out the clamp and use a longer bolt.

 

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/9809/sdc12296a.jpg

 

Then you splice on whatever connectors you need to hook up the electrical to the pump. The pump will be marked with a + and - terminal, just like a coil. The black wire with the yellowish stripe is the +, solid black is the -.

 

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5853/sdc12299y.jpg

 

You will not be able to reuse the plastic shield if your pump is anything like mine, so i left it off the bracket.

 

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/1115/sdc12297f.jpg

 

Since my pump (used) came with the barb fittings, I simply cut the line going to the stock pump as close as possible to the old pump. (you'll want the extra length).

 

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/9012/sdc12300v.jpg

 

Then I re-installed the pump bracket. Plugged the pump in, hooked back up the lines on the tank and re-installed the tank. You can hook the high pressure fuel line up after the tank is back in place.

 

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/1272/sdc12301m.jpg

 

Heres a picture of the gap where you can hook back up the high pressure fuel line.

 

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/7199/sdc12302q.jpg

 

Then unhook the coil, have someone crank the car to "Start" position and hold it while you check for leaks.

Edited July 26, 2012 by Frenchi934

[Frenchi934]

Installed a Tim C Screamin' Banshee cam, reset the lash, reset the timing back to 10* BTDC (I was running 14), set the idle/tps/isc, changed out the sparkplugs and the thing idles very nice now. Did a compression test too just for grins, still good numbers (135 ish) I don't notice any lope in it with it idling around 850.

 

**The following cam comparo was written BEFORE plugs, timing change and idle reset. I literally pulled the car in the garage, changed the cam, set the lash and went out and tested it; then came back and did the plugs so that I could tell how different it ran.

 

The lifters are significantly quieter now as well. I'm running the same lash I was on the 274 H, but i guess since its a Hyd cam it was just going to be noisy. This cam pulls harder on top as well. All things the same, i notice a slightly quicker spool (maybe 100 or 200 rpm) and about 500-600 rpm more power up top. Power sort of fades out up top whereas before it would actually almost set you forward in the seat when it ran out of top end.

 

After my first impressions, I would recommend this cam over the 274 (To be fair, it has significantly more duration than a 274, so its not really apples to apples).

Edited July 29, 2012 by Frenchi934

[Frenchi934]

Today i got the maf translator gen 2 installed. I installed it for the stock maf right now. I like to do things one at a time to have less variables to check if something goes wrong.

 

Here is a quick how to:

 

Here are the ECU pinouts and Maft gen 2 pinouts: This is from the 88 manual and is the same pinouts as my 89. Make sure to check the manual for your specific year. The second picture here has the color/ splice assignments here. The AEM stuff applies to the analog gauge like mine.

 

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/5394/sdc12319p.jpg

 

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/5576/sdc12322v.jpg

 

Once you know where everything is going, go ahead and get started by taking out the glovebox and covers on the passengers side:

 

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2382/sdc12304d.jpg

 

Pull down the ECU and pull out the harness from the chassis a little to give you more room to work.

 

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/6070/sdc12305b.jpg

 

Then unplug the two plugs, and put them so that the clip is down (this is how you look at it to match it up with the FSM diagram), so here i have already cut pin 2 for the maf signal in/out of the maft.

 

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5052/sdc12306i.jpg

 

I used crimp connectors and heat shrink. be sure to test all connections by tugging on them before moving on to the next.

 

http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/5104/sdc12307n.jpg

 

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/1364/sdc12310v.jpg

 

I ziptied all of the wires together in a bundle except for the purple, orange, and white ones (for wideband and RPM signal) as they would be going across the dash to the drivers side. Everything else goes to the ecu.

 

I ran the orange and purple ones to my AEM Uego analog outputs, and ran the white one out through the cruise control grommet along the vacuum line for my boost gauge to the distributor connector. You can get a good, scaled down (under 5 v peak) rpm signal from the harness side white wire on the Distributor plug. **has to be the harness side, as on the distributor side the white wire is not the same one.

 

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/7306/sdc12314o.jpg

 

If you do it this way, the RPM reads correctly when set to 4 cyl (no more setting to 16 cyl like many have done with the original maft).

 

Now for initial setup:

 

If you're like me, and bought one of these used.... you'll want to do a reset on it to clear out the out the previous owners settings. To do this, turn the key to the ON position while holding the upper right arrow for 15 seconds, at first it will say "Hold button to reset!!"

 

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4543/sdc12311c.jpg

 

when it resets it will say "all data reset!"

 

http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/4154/sdc12312b.jpg

 

There are several menus. To scroll from menu to menu, hold the upper left button down, and use the arrows to scroll. To scroll through various settings in each menu, hold the lower left button and use the arrows to scroll.

 

Select your maf IN. (for me right now its DSM1g even though im using the conquest maf) and maf out (for all of us it will be DSM1g). Cylinders and displacement. The maft 2 manual will help you with the rest of the setup / fine tuning.

 

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/7441/sdc12315d.jpg

 

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2807/sdc12316.jpg

 

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/3715/sdc12317x.jpg

 

A lot of credit goes to Boosted77 and his write up here: http://www.starquest...howtopic=120584

Edited July 31, 2012 by Frenchi934

[Technology]

Thank you for incorporating your crotch into the pictures.

[Frenchi934]

bahaha. I didnt even notice. Pics being edited now. Edited July 31, 2012 by Frenchi934

[Frenchi934]

So i finally got around to the next step of my project. I installed a 2g maf. I fabbed up an intake pipe that accommodates the recirculated BOV and the oil separator vacuum hose.

 

Unlike most who change MAF's. I also mounted it to the chassis so that it doesnt flop around in the engine bay and even used the mount to mount the separator in the stock location as well. Still trying for the factory look..

 

My dad helped me out and modded the turbo exit pipe as well to clear the new setup.

 

heres a few pics.

 

Old setup:

http://imageshack.us/a/img40/1086/sdc12221l.jpg

 

New setup:

http://imageshack.us/a/img843/3765/sdc12347c.jpg

 

Recirc:

http://imageshack.us/a/img513/3460/sdc12327a.jpg

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img839/1420/sdc12325k.jpg

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img407/9973/sdc12344.jpg

Edited October 22, 2012 by Frenchi934

[ZacMan]

Very cool, I particularly like that air-filter. Will be putting one of these on my beast too, so is nice to see a good method of mounting.

[David Adams]

Meh . . . needs to be about 20 percent cooler.

[obsolete]

So i finally got around to the next step of my project. I installed a 2g maf...

 

Well, how does it run? How much fuel did you end up adding for the 2G over the stocker? I bought a MAFT Gen 2 was planning to use a GM MAF, but now I'm leaning toward a 2G, 3G, or other newer Mitsu MAF because I'd like to keep my IAT and baro.

[Frenchi934]

It took significant tuning but its difficult to say how much of it was the maf and how much of it was the huge cam / injectors etc.

 

That being said the tuning wasnt difficult and it runs like factory now that im done.

 

More exciting stuff coming on this car in the next couple weeks

[obsolete]

Like factory...perfect. I hope I can achieve that on my car.

 

Great job so far, looking forward to what you have coming up.

[Frenchi934]

Well this weekend was pretty busy. Got my 12a core back from turbolab as a td06sl2-18g with a billet 18g wheel....

 

had to do some work to the turbine housing like last time... Dad fabbed up this plate and welded it in nice and flush.

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img502/5629/sdc12360s.jpg

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img9/7348/sdc12366.jpg

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img845/9946/sdc12364m.jpg

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img820/6743/sdc12365.jpg

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img580/9084/sdc12369w.jpg

 

He also welded the two extra ports on the wastegate for me so i dont have to worry about frying off the rubber plugs anymore.

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img208/8991/sdc12367x.jpg

 

He even did up this oil pan baffle. He keeps 1up-ing all my previous projects!

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img4/863/sdc12361en.jpg

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img20/6069/sdc12363l.jpg

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img21/2106/sdc12362n.jpg

 

so after fighting the car to get the old turbo, oil pan and valve cover off. I finally got to check the valve lash (routine maintenence)

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img191/3748/sdc12372h.jpg

 

They had tightened up about a thousanth since i last checked so it was good that i got in there to see how they were doing.

 

We also had to step up the sizing of the downpipe flange and gasket to match the MUCH larger new turbine wheel. (this hole was way bigger than it needed to be for the td05 wheel I had on the car.

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img580/9344/sdc12373v.jpg

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/4426/sdc12377j.jpg

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img502/6494/sdc12371.jpg

 

Finally got it all back on after a weekend of hard work. Decided to leave the turbo heat sheilds off because there really isnt anyting there to sheild anymore. Looking toward some new injectors coming soon as well as an engine bay refresh. (Going to do a little cleaning up/ tidying and maybe work a little magic on hiding some of the electrical and vacuum lines).

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img132/9937/sdc12388v.jpg

 

Further down the road might see a better clutch and the 83 hood thats in my garage end up on this thing.

 

Thanks for reading.

Edited February 11, 2013 by Frenchi934

[importwarrior]

I would keep an eye on that area near the turbo now that your not using the shields.

i would put the big one back on. The AC hose black foam coating will turn to a powder

once heat cycled and whn you touch it it will fall apart like little sand pieces.

[dmyers151]

I'm interested in seeing how the new setup acts. Have you had a chance to put any miles on it?

 

That turbine outlet looks massive.

[Fanta]

FINALLY!

 

You know what this means, right?

 

RIGHT?! O_O

[Frenchi934]

I'm interested in seeing how the new setup acts. Have you had a chance to put any miles on it?

 

That turbine outlet looks massive.

 

Not as of yet. Literally just drove it back up to school.

 

I need to make sure its not leaking any fluids. check to make sure my fuel map is still good...then ill gradually start increasing boost; but until my new injectors get here i cant imagine ill have the fuel to go very high.

 

first impressions (10lbs stock boost, turned off the controller) are that it spools about 300 slower, and boost builds much more linearly. not like an on off switch like the other turbo. It pulls HARD from about 3500 to 6k though and thats only at 10lbs. all my math and purchases were done for 22lbs.

[Funky Phil]

Sig pic caught my eye. You did a great job on this! Good choice on the turbo btw.

[Frenchi934]

Thanks phil! I'm running 30psi to 6500rpm. Need to get a clutch that consistantly holds it and ill get her dyno'd.

[seans87Quest]

wow incredible what you are capable of to bad you didnt live a little close to st.louis cause i could defiantly use your help to get my 87 back on the road it has been 3 year since it had seen pavement when i bought it in feb. this year

[mbruneaux]

Exhaust time: I've been wanting to do this for a while. So i finally sat down and did it. I built a complete system with a divorced downpipe and straight through muffler. The downpipe design is supposed to cut down the turbulence created by the wastegate opening.

 

Short parts list:

 

heated 02

16 gauge wire (to wire it to the car after mounting it 36 inches downstream)

3 3" mandrel bent u-bends from summit (summit brand)

1 4' long 3" tube from summit (summit brand)

1 3" straight through (round) Dynomax muffler

1 1.5" mandrel J bend from summit (summit brand)

custom flange that I drew on CAD and had my friend cut out for me at work

2 rods of cold roll steel from home depot (for hangars)

3 longer wastegate bolts

2 3" ball flanges from summit (summit brand)

 

oh yeah.... and 4 days worth of taking time to cut, weld, grind, reweld, refit and make sure its right. (Would have gone much easier if we had a lift) but it wouldn't have cut more than a day off the project.

 

So here's a few pictures of the process. None of the tip just yet. But I just finished it about an hour ago.

 

http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/3871/sdc11644.jpg

 

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8872/sdc11648i.jpg

 

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9744/sdc11649.jpg

 

http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/5290/sdc11645n.jpg

 

http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/5379/sdc11655o.jpg

 

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9495/sdc11656y.jpg

 

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/8650/sdc11662r.jpg

 

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/3706/sdc11679.jpg

 

I used a coat hangar to make a template for the hangars, then duplicated the shape in cold roll steel using a torch and pipe to bend it

 

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/7472/sdc11680g.jpg

 

http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/3998/sdc11681t.jpg

 

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/417/sdc11682r.jpg

 

Last I did the divorced section of the downpipe:

 

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/5659/sdc11683.jpg

 

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/7595/sdc11684v.jpg

 

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/6908/sdc11686d.jpg

 

I tack welded in a small plate to seal off the wastegate opening. Trust me, its reversible if need be.

(I used the disk to protect the turbine wheel from any slag, which would imbalance the turbo)

 

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/2772/sdc11688t.jpg

 

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9497/sdc11689g.jpg

 

Finally, I Painted up all the welds to protect from rust. The rest is aluminized so It should be fine. I kind of dig the "raw" look this gives it.

 

http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/5343/sdc11690y.jpg

 

Heres the clearance with the downpipe:

 

http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/4206/sdc11691e.jpg

 

Finally, I would like to say that I know a few of you might not agree with this exhaust design. But please don't bash me in this thread. Its a proven design used by many other communities and I invested a lot of time and effort into doing this. So far the results are speaking for themselves. It spools a LOT quicker, isn't much louder than my 20 year old muffler, and hasn't given me a problem yet. If it does I'll be sure to post about it and contribute the knowledge to the community.

 

Thanks for reading! Can't wait to see everyone in Pigeon Forge next weekend!

 

How much would it cost to have another one of those downpipe flanges made?

[aconro]

Wow.. lots of info here. Awesome job with your car. It looks great. Looking forward to seeing what else you do.

[Guest 87redstar]

Well this weekend was pretty busy. Got my 12a core back from turbolab as a td06sl2-18g with a billet 18g wheel....

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img132/9937/sdc12388v.jpg

 

Further down the road might see a better clutch and the 83 hood thats in my garage end up on this thing.

 

Thanks for reading.

Googling 18g's and found you can get a 3" inlet housing for it.

 

http://forums.austar...pic.php?t=15710

 

Edited September 5, 2014 by 87redstar