Jump to content

The Great MAFT Settings Thread


tehzack
 Share

Recommended Posts

Marso- Great advice on settings, I have gotten the cables to extend the translator in the cab so i can make changes on the fly, Never understood the base setting until you posted. Thank's again.

 

Dad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...

Not sure if it will work with everything connected since I had to disconnect the MAP sensor on my 84 (nearly the same as an 86) to get the MAFT adjustments to work. Here are my settings and AFR readings, running on the mods in my signature.

 

Running stock 850cc injectors

Running with the MAP sensor unplugged.

 

Idles 14.0-15.0

Cruises 14.0-14.6

Boosts 7-8psi in the 11s

 

Settings:

 

Base: E

Idle: F

Mid: 7

WOT: 7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am slowly increasing my boost, and right now I'm at 15 and all is goo. When I try to go higher it runs too lean even with WOT all the way at 8. You think its my fuel pump not keeping up or can I adjust the AUX setting? I tried turning the AUX 2 clicks and it made the care not be able to idle. Kind of confused me because I thought AUX was only for above 15lbs. Then I thought to myself, how does it know I am at 15lbs. Not too sure what to do, need more fuel.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Guys I hope this Isn't to stupid but while running the maft

Do I need to disconnect my o2 sensor?

 

The only stupid question is one you dont ask. .and to my knowledge no you could leave it plugged in, mine is and I havent ran into any problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Did you read guide linked on page 2?

 

Troubleshooting

If the installation and tuning does not progress as the steps indicate, the translator signals can be checked according to the following table.

 

Wires to MAF sensor:

Pink - +12 volts

Yellow - MAF frequency signal

Black – ground (0 volts)

 

Wires to Vehicle:

Pink - +12

Green – Translator frequency signal

Black – Ground (0 volts)

Brown – ATS (Air temperature signal, fixed at 80 degrees)

Gray – BARO (Barometric pressure signal, fixed at 3.9 volts)

White – RPM signal, connected to CAS sensor.

 

No LED blink at key on: check power feed to Translator, check connections, check fuse.

 

RED LED is blinking: The MAF Translator has internal trouble codes that are blinked out using the RED LED. The codes are as follows.

 

1 blink - in RPM mode, No RPM signal

2 blinks – no MAF signal

3 blinks – Internal Flash memory problem.

4 blinks – dial or switch problem

5 blinks – internal program problem

6 blinks – problem with saved settings.

7 blinks – unit detected a reset while the engine was running.

8 blinks – internal Flash memory reset.

Edited by RonnieJ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

How do I tell if mine is 1.3 or 2.0? I got mine without a cover

here is a pic of mine----2.0version---mine only says 2.0 on the cover and i think the early units looked the same(not 100% on that)Maybe the pic will help u if there are any visual clues to the version u have---if not get in touch with "ongreenperformance" that is who i bought mine from so maybe they can tell u by a serial number or something how old ur unit is---think the new version came out in 2005-2006---hope it helps--

gig out

 

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l587/dmndstar87/DSC00633.jpg

Edited by DMNDSTAR87
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agreed any way to tell the difference? And will extending the wires to locate the box inside the car cause any issues?

No issues with moving ur maft inside the cabin----they make an extension harness and that is what i used and it is plug/play--very simple and easier than soldering wires---see above pic--

gig out

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
Ive noticed a lot of people are running way unnecessarily rich! 12 AFR is the power number on WOT under full load. Closest to that you will be making the best power. running 10AFR at wot is just robbing power and money. Idle and cruising should be around 14.7 depending on your mods if excessive cam or not. But i have a 292 cam in mine and it idles great at 14-15. Cruising is the same about 14.3-15.1.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1g trans + 3" gm maf

plug and play, if you buy the 1g version

 

This is correct no matter what year SQ you have? Also, has anyone tried out the Gen 2? It is "cut splice and solder" rather than plug and play... but looks like it has much more capabilities and finer tuning.

 

Keith

Edited by Threedoor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

86 and older is not plug and play, but it can be wired to work.

 

If it's not plug and play anyway this makes me much more likely to get the gen2 unit instead.... or would I be better off going stand alone? I have a crap load of experience with the AEM EMS on my old EVO... if you don't have a good base map they are a pain in the butt.

 

Keith

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

If it's not plug and play anyway this makes me much more likely to get the gen2 unit instead.... or would I be better off going stand alone? I have a crap load of experience with the AEM EMS on my old EVO... if you don't have a good base map they are a pain in the butt.

 

Keith

In my opinion it would be better to go strait to the stand alones on the 86 and older. As the older cars run on both a map and a mas sensor you would only be tuning half of the fuel equation. I would think a tuning system on both the mas and the map signal would give better results. But the added cost and complexity is hard to justify vs the stand alone. Perhaps a different map sensor like a gm 2 or 3 bar sensor in combo with the maft would give better results than just the maft. It would be a lot of trail and error with no guarantees of susses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my opinion it would be better to go strait to the stand alones on the 86 and older. As the older cars run on both a map and a mas sensor you would only be tuning half of the fuel equation. I would think a tuning system on both the mas and the map signal would give better results. But the added cost and complexity is hard to justify vs the stand alone. Perhaps a different map sensor like a gm 2 or 3 bar sensor in combo with the maft would give better results than just the maft. It would be a lot of trail and error with no guarantees of susses.

 

If I go stand alone I will probably end up speed density anyway, that is what I am used to working with on the AEM EMS. Now that I have helpful well thought out advice on the subject, this is now officially off topic :) No need to reply in this thread.

 

Keith

Edited by Threedoor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
Cant post pics but new upgrades. Ready to do mpi eventually. Have a gt 35 r t3 equal length header custom 3.5" downpipe custom aluminium sheetmetal tbi intake using a gm dual 52 mm throttle body with python 850/1350 injectors 2,5" intercooler piping maft with tack adapter and add on fuel injector. Gotta do a fire up tune now motor has 2400 miles since rebuild bored 30 over with new pistons.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey DMNDSTAR87, I haven't been able to find this harness and I'd really like to run my translator inside the cabin like you have. Do you think you could post the link of what harness it is you are referring to and are running yourself? Thanks in advance.

 

Edit: Found it :lol: And here's the link for anyone else needing it: http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+0501GEXT+eq++Tp+

Edited by CarlosFley
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...