techboy

I'll definitely post up with what I find out, but it might be a little bit - like fall or winter. Other than that the initial puff of burnt oil the car is running really well and I'm in the middle of a building a garage at the new house, restoring a Galant VR-4 with my son and I bought a new turbo for the Eclipse almost 2 years ago I'd like to get installed and tuned, so barring anything crazy the Starion is kinda on the back burner for now. Honestly, I don't think I would ever build another G54B at this point. If something were to happen to my current motor, I'd swap - just not sure to what. I'm kinda between 4G63, 5.0 and 1JZ. I'm still kicking myself for not buying all the 4G63 stuff from you when you moved.

If they are just standard o-rings then I probably already have them in one of the o-ring kits I have then. Pretty sure I saw the valve stem seals on Dad's website. I'll try doing a new PCV valve before I do anything. Having to do rings would be really disappointing since I never trash on the car and it has about 4-5k miles on the rebuild in the last 10 years. If that's the case I may live with it for this season and figure what I want to do over winter. Like I said, it only does it once after startup and first shift. Then it's fine. Something is seeping while its sitting and then its burning if off.

This season my car has started puffing some smoke after the first shift after start up. It does it once and then it won't do it again while driving. So naturally I'm thinking it's time for new valve stem seals. Which kinda stinks considering how few miles I've put on this car since restore, but I guess they get hard and don't seal anymore even while sitting. Anyway, I was reading up on some old threads about doing the job and I stumbled across one where Shelby mentioned you should do the Jet Valve Elimination O-rings too b/c oil can sit on top of them and cause the same symptom. I'd hate to replace the valve stem seals and discover the car is still doing it b/c I didn't do the o-rings. 1 - Can anyone verify that is in fact true? Shelby was usually pretty trustworthy. 2 - I don't see the o-rings for sale anywhere separately. Anyone know the size? Or is it easier to just buy a new elimination kit while the valve cover is off?

I love Starquest wheels. One if the few production cars that IMO came eith the perfect set of wheels.

That response has you rebuilding the bottom end ... cleaning the block and putting in new bearings. If you just had a blown head gasket you could literally just pull the head and leave the block in the car and replace the gasket. Depending on the severity of the situation, of course, but that response is more of a total engine rebuild.

Mookeeh used to sell a whole assembly as well (thats whats on my car) but I don't know if he still does. Edit .. it doesn't look like their available anymore, or at least at this time.

Another thing to add onto the pile here ... are you still running an OEM FPR? If so, it's probably pretty old at this point. I ran into an issue just 2 years ago where my car was stumbling at 3500ish RPM's like yours. I tried all kinds of things before I finally bought an aftermarket FPR and installed it. (I was resistant b/c I was trying to keep the car as OEM as possible) Car ran great. Here I was chasing a problem all over the place when it was a weak diaphragm in the FPR and it wasn't getting the fuel it needed under higher rpm. I agree with the other posts above here - it seems like you have multiple issues going on at once, and I agree your stuck in closed loop - which should be a CTS problem.

Multiple place listing possibly. Maybe someone bought it locally?

Nice work kev. More importantly I'm impressed with you patience.

I know someone local to me who has a Starion and has some health issues and is therefore looking to sell. It's a black 87. Last time I rode in it, it was a solid running car. Im not sure what he's asking, but if your interested PM me and I can put the 2 of you in touch.

I usually just fill everything up with as much fluid as it will take. I put the cap on and take the car for a short drive, making sure it get to operating temp. I usually just drive around the neighborhood or something. Then I park it and let it cool down. And then the next time I drive the car I just top it off again. I've done this method several times on these cars and it always seems to work just fine.

Don't know where you're located other than the US as it says, but Steve is in VA I believe. If you're on a budget your probably not going to want to pay to tow a car I'd assume. I start just by looking on FB Marketplace and hit the LOCAL button. You might something right in your area. Any car that has been sitting for a while could fall prey to rust, make sure you look it over underneath real well. It can take a lot to bring one of these back. Took me 6 years - there's other's on here that have taken longer.

Great info to have reposted.

This is a pic I took of my car today. You can see the one end is connected to the noise filter or resistor or whatever the hack that thing is, the other end just has a ringlet on it that is grounded to the bolt under the ignitor box. I could have got my phone more underneath for a better pic, but you get the idea.

I'd have to check my car, but I believe that connects to a ground over by where the EGR is typically mounted. EDIT - i was almost right. The one end comes from the resistor that mounts next to the ignitor box, the other end grounds to a mounting bolt under the ignitor box. According to your first pic you are missing the ground end.