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kev

Member Since 04 Mar 2002
Offline Last Active Today, 06:58 AM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Possible injector issue. Problem Persists

Today, 07:00 AM

Yes, primary is the 650 (black injector) and it is the drivers side one.

If you have replaced the clips, sometimes it is easy to swap the leads being that the wires are longer.   Also, could a soldered connection have become corroded or loose being that you swapped the injectors?

In Topic: Possible injector issue. Problem Persists

21 July 2021 - 01:48 PM

Yes, you are correct on both questions.   Yes, that LED light will do the trick.   It will flash a number of times and then pause, flash either the same number of times or a different pattern.   Count the number of times for each pattern.   Note that you will usually have the single flash if the car isn't running or is cold...this is normal, it's the O2 sensor.    The FSM shows what the others mean.  

I'd order up a resistor, it comes in handy when dealing with these issues...and, yes, we all miss Radio Shack.  

There have been a lot of people on here lately saying that they had wiring issues to the secondary injector.   See if you have +12V to the secondary.  one prong to the wire, one to the ground.  Don't just check for voltage across the two connectors, it will be zero.  It grounds the one connector to fire the injector...but you should have +12V to the one lead.    Have you replaced the injector clips?  


It's not a pain.  These electrical systems are frustrating.  I've been driving/wrenching on these cars for 30 years but I'm actually having a similar issue on my one conquest to what you are seeing...slightly erratic idle and loss of power at full throttle.   The car is drivable but I know it isn't right despite doing everything right.   Just takes time in troubleshooting and gets frustrating at times but you'll get it.   It usually ends up being something stupid.    I had one car  that was running erratic.  I went through the entire fuel and electrical system with a fine tooth comb...including replacing parts, etc.   Only to come to the conclusion that one of my spark plugs was bad.   Talk about ticking me off when I figured it out.   I had just recently replaced the plugs with new NGK 7031s but the one must have had a quality issue for it was causing erratic issues.  I popped in an old beat up set of champion plugs that were laying in my spare parts bins and it ran like a champ.

In Topic: kev's Conquest #7

19 July 2021 - 06:59 AM

The truck is running again and it purrs like a kitten!    Cleaned it all up, inside and out and it looks and runs like a brand new vehicle.  Now to trade it in, haha!  

I think I do have a torn rear mount on the CQ.  On Saturday, I went to pull out and it clunked a few times in the rear and didn't want to go for a few seconds.   Felt like the rear was lifting off at least one mount.   It hasn't done it since but I've been babying the car and pulling out real slow.   It does make sense along with the vibration I get at 3k rpms and higher.    The TT felt ok when I checked it awhile back but I never did take a prybar to the rear mounts.  Also, my right rear caliper is sticking just a bit.   Not enough to overheat the brakes or even slow the car down but enough that the wheel is coated with brake dust after a few days.    This caliper was stuck when I got the car.  I took it off, pulled the piston, cleaned/lubricated, and reinstalled but it's time to do an actual rebuild.  The good thing is that I know the piston is good.  Just need to buy a seal kit and take it fully a part along with the e-brake mechanism.  

Still doesn't pull as hard as it should at full boost.   Higher octane gas helped but not cured it.   I redid most of the fuel system on the rebuild.   Injectors are working well.  I may have to get a fuel pressure gauge on there to diagnose it further.   Like I said, I have just been babying the car for the time being until I buy another daily driver and then I can hone in on these issues.

In Topic: Possible injector issue. Problem Persists

19 July 2021 - 06:47 AM

First off, you need to dissociate the brake repair with this issue.   This is a 30+ year old car...and things happen.   Lumping the two together is only going to tick you off, it has no other benefit whatsoever.   The electrical system on these cars is non-typical.  Most of the mechanics in the world will struggle with it greatly.   It's not that it is overly complicated, it is just that it is different.  Someone without years of knowledge on these cars and lack of the service manuals will not be able to get this car running for you.   This has been the case since these cars were new and time just makes that worse.   Nowadays, most Mitsubishi mechanics have never even worked on one of these cars.   In the 90s, the local Mitsu dealer in my area had a starion specialist.  They wouldn't even book an appointment with another mechanic.   What I'm trying to say is that I would put down the notion that a mechanic is going to fix this issue for you.  Definitely don't blame your current mechanic for not being able to fix it and especially not for causing it.  

So getting back to the problem, Mike is honing in on the idle situation due to the videos you posted.  You are most likely still having an issue with the ISC/MSC/TPS system for it to idle like that.   I'd take Mike's words seriously, he knows these electronics like the back of his hand. BUT, there is one thing that I'd put focus on first....your coolant temperature sensor. The fact that the car runs good cold but horrible warm tells me that your CTS may be bad.   Pick up a 300 ohm resister. Get the car running nice and warm.   Unplug the CTS and insert the 300 ohm resister into each prong of the CTS connector.   The resister will trick the ECU that the car is CTS is closed and the car is warm. Now try driving it and see if anything changed.

Honestly, there are many items that can cause the issues that you are experiencing.   Start with these electrical checks/adjustments and then proceed to the fuel system.  Check the CTS and do another ISC/MPS/TSP reset taking your time using the FAQ (which Mike wrote) backed by his explanations in this thread.   

Fast forwarding a bit to the fuel side: How does the fuel pump sound when it is warm compared to cold?   Is it making more noise when warm?

Oh, have you checked the ECU codes??????

In Topic: What to look for on a new non running car?

16 July 2021 - 07:34 AM

Yes, there is definitely rust in that quarter.   And if one is rusting like that, the other is probably the same or close. The front portion may have been the result of some damage underneath meaning that it may be localized to this area but the rust forming along the wheel lip in the back is very common.  It typically is more prominent on the drivers side (not really sure why) but the passenger side will start to show the same signs later on down the road.

Quarter panel patch panels are not available new or aftermarket.  You would need to repair this be either forming the panels yourself out of sheet metal or find donor panels from a rust free car. There is a member here who sells parts and typically has some sheet metal patch panels.  I just looked at his site (link below) and he has some passenger side panels available now. I will say that I searched for almost two years for rust free quarters for my car and that was 15 years ago.   They are pretty hard to find now.  Although I'm in rust belt state.

https://starquestpar...qTpiDv4Pl7Tc-Eo



I agree with the others in general....mechanicals aren't the hard part.  Although parts are getting harder to find, mechanical components can be sourced. It's a rust free body that would put you in the best starting position.