tux

Don't throw out that relay rod! I'd put that on eBay or see about sell it to mks motorsport for his core charge

to untighten, i usually lean a breaker against the floor and gently bump the starter to loosen the bolt, then slide right off. I've also always needed to move the radiator up a smidge to get the crank pulley bolt out. Pulley then comes off with a gentle tug from your hand.

It looks based on their website they have a Group Buy for a Ford 8.8 irs rear subframe Anyone have any details on it?

check your crusty old vacuum lines. also check all the stuff those lines plug into. some of the vacuum switches on the engine like to shed their nipples

If it was an 88 you could tell quickly from the rear axles, no?

All good, it was definitely worth a shot. I know mounting holes are in same spot but the rest who knows

Doesn't say anything else but other rx7's are compatible. But then the 300zx calipers don't say they are compatible with the vr4.

welcome. Dad's got the goods, good his site came back. Good luck w/ the intake conversion!

just watched the video.. sick man

Turbos generally like lighter weight oil, from what i've read.

definitely a more headache free way to do it if you've got a good shop you can trust

$600+ a set. Undrstood the WRX calipers would likely be different, but they are a decade apart

I posted before about the rx7 caliper bracket I found on a Japanese site. Since revolution brakes doesn't seem to be interested in delivering a brake kit, I'm looking for an alternative. RX7 calipers are very expensive but I'm curious if they are the same as vr4 and 300zx calipers. The mounting hole width appears to be the the same based on my measurements of the vr4 calipers I have and comparing to this drawing for adapters https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-HOWTO-Mazda-FC3S-4pot-Calipers?page=3 The Rx7 calipers are made by sumitomo. Anyone know if they are compatible parts across all three makes?

I'd start by verifying all vacuum connections are good and no vacuum leaks. Starquestgarage.com has manuals available with test procedures for the various components. You can use a test light on the ECI diag connector, but usually that has never helped me much.

Way off topic, but I feel the same about contractors working on my house. They always underwhelm, so I just do the work myself and if it's not up to my standards, I can either do it again or live with it knowing I didn't pay for a poor quality job. I do the same w/ my car though, except for when it's way above my level, such as machining or bodywork/paint.

I guess the life pro tip to get it to work: a big vise and a plastic dead blow hammer. That circlip needs to be well inside of the recess. Get it in there are good as possible, set it up in a deep vise and get angry with the hammer smashing the back end of the pump shaft.

Well, more poking around i noticed there is a recess on the cam that looks like it should fit the circlip. Got the circlip jammed into the recess and... still binds.

I thought maybe because it would fit in the recess in the back of the housing but measuring with some calipers leads me to believe the recess isn't deep enough to accommodate the shaft and the circlip I slapped some grease on the cam and it looks like the cam is binding on the back of the case.

Maybe, just maybe, the circlip could be the culprit. It may be stretched a little wider than it should be. Not sure where to get another one to try and be more gingerly when installing https://photos.app.goo.gl/GtqgTVB6o*DMExEN7

Nope, that's not a thing

I put some grease on the cam and found that is what is hitting the rear casing when it's torqued down to spec. Not sure why that would be ensured cam ring has punch mark towards the pump body and there's very few parts so none are missing. Strange business . Just found a post that said not to assemble it while resting on the pulley. When i try again I'll do that and report back

Ya possibly. Every time i take one of these apart and put back together, it ends up seized. Guess I'll be hunting ebay for another

Classic, seized soon as the bank casing is torqued down 🤷‍♂️ Well at least it's always the same problem after i rebuilt.

Ok thanks kev. I've never had luck rebuilding these. It did look a bit intentional to be damage but i wasn't sure. Thanks

Went to rebuild since AutoZone doesn't have any stock to replace under warranty and seems nobody else has available to buy. But could this be the reason why it was dumping fluid from the shaft while not running? I don't remember from the last time I failed at repairing one. Note the swirled score. https://photos.app.goo.gl/CpaywK3F9srPQELu9