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About ptracy26

  • Birthday 05/09/1967

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  • Interests
    slow cars and fat women
  • Location
    Orange Park, FL.
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  • Factory Color
    Polar White
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    Dark Red
  • Status
    Being Modded

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  1. Folllowing up, so I'm seeing (hearing) some progress here. I've hardwire the Controller Box (CPU? - MS/Microtech) and just the MAP Sensor (supplied from the kit)/Signal directly to the Negative Terminal. The car turned over more than ever and almost fired up a couple of times. I still have some quick spikes but steady 275 rpm's which probably fires the coil more than before. What I don't get is that the other components to the project don't have a ground, more shielding etc... (Distributor, o2). The only thing left to do is to ground the 02 sensor?, Ground the TPS?, and Knock Box? the same way. I ran out of time today but open for comments.
  2. 55 and working hard at home, but to many excuses to go through.
  3. The VR Cable ohm fine pt 2 pt, no breaks except where it was soldered to the connectors (where it doesn't wrap around anymore). I'm going this route next: I don't know what your MS setup is but they usually have several small ground wires, you can bundle them all together to a point and run a single larger wire to your battery. will follow up later how its progressing. (still have the MK1 wheel/trigger setup as last option)
  4. Did not know I have to weld the 35 tooth wheel, oh boy. the journey continues.
  5. I was able to get pics from MK1 ill post as a follow up, just to re add it I bet
  6. I have the 35 tooth trigger, and purchased the MK1 EDIS trigger bracket? Anyone have pic or instruction setting this up?
  7. Sorry, but follow in up on this, the Trigger and a tooth log, is that a setting in MS to do?
  8. The factory ground is attached to the block and back to the frame (BlackYellow) confirmed. This is where I completed the connection from the end of the negative cable (as it was just sitting there) to the same size cable and ran that to the battery negative in the trunk (20ft). Prime the rail and went for short crank runs and seem to still have the noise issue, calling it that as the rpms are jumping from 185-9k still. So probably no spark and fuel just pouring in. The car will back fire and or crank over 1x generally before the plugs get too wet (my assumption). Reviewed the locked distributor, inspected it, hard wired it (still a slight rotational play when locked, but maybe that's warranted as when it gets heated up while driving that needs play for expansion??? (no play on the locked portion btw)). I'm still going to track all the grounds and maybe attempt BlueC suggestion of getting them to one connection to the negative side. (I did buy that piece from the link but returned it for now). I have been provided another solution and have purchased a MK1 35 tooth trigger wheel and MK1's bracket. Just haven't purchased the 1.3 ford sensor or connector. have instruction on how to set it up with TSI and MS, so with the thought of eventually getting it started/running moving to Coil Packs as well. That's where I'm at, so hot in FL. to work on it now, bad excuse but I will keep pursing its start regardless.
  9. "agree with the voltage. Many strange things have happened on mine when it dips below 10V. Give that a try and see if the logs look any better. Also take a trigger and a tooth log. That may show what's really going on. " I'll check this out as well, thanks!
  10. Wow, great info. Here's the details to challenge you. This is a brand new Battery, I again just charged this up by a high end battery charger before these two logs were recorded. Once charged and pulled off the charger it states 13.3, once plugged in it measures 12.3, then I hit charge btw. Again, brand new, well 6 months old running on test cranks, never starting but charged before the logs above were taken. 2nd new battery btw that Autozone gave me for free, since the other one died in two years after never staring with MS. wink wink Good point here, Legion moved my battery to the trunk and grounded it in the trunk to a point noted in the books as a ground point. Seems to me passenger side rear trunk side bolt. (there's just so many of Us left, I reached out to another member 2 years ago who had this MS setup, seems like the same issue relocating the battery. I asked did you get is started, he said no, just switched the engine out to a 1jz maybe cause he couldn't address it starting and basically said f it, well that's 6k more or less, not going there) I like this quote or advice! "How is your ground setup? Do not ground the ECU to the engine even if the instructions tell you to do so. If it is grounded to the engine move its ground to the battery. Grounding to the engine for the MS caused me some strange issues that were resolved by grounding it directly to the battery. " So if the battery is in the trunk and the ECU is on the floor passenger side, do I have an issue. We'll I have to trace how its grounded but maybe I need to pay attention to this straight away. just sharing how my setup is or designed by my wallet.
  11. I can only qoute my invoice ver betam: MS2 Microsquirt module System Description: The replacement part consist of a megagsquirt MS2 module running the latest MSextra firmware (3.4.2) Injectors are 1000cc supposedly high impedance and set this way via adjustments to the passenger side injector impedance loop blocked or off
  12. First off SStar has been hugely supported in the build of my MPI, so no advice to check in with him. He's already on my hotline to communicate and responsive but don't want to bother him with this group ask. I have a degree in Finance, so not a mechanic or blah blah blah, but love this car (since I owned it with 17 miles on it) and yeah have enough blood on the engine with the mear tools I use to work on it. So not the sharpest tool in the shed, and its not someones responsibility to hand hold me through this. But I try, I'm just curious if others experienced this, fixed it, and How? (RPM Noise) My next work is to check wiring, maybe re-soldered the wiring (even though they OHM out fine), then focus on the distributor which has a very slight rotation play when its locked and cap is off. The rotation is not on the locked part but as a whole unit, is that normal? or ? This is a 10 year project now to get it running, 1) starquest member in Jax, rebuilt my engine and we went with a MAFT/MAP Gen II - well 3 months later the balance shafts went (stock tear down - so maybe I missed the memo) 2) Well, I dare you to move, so full rebuild with all forged internals and custom MPI, 20 g turbo custom header, etc... etc... Gave it to a local business called "Adrenaline Performace", he wanted to do a K-swap on it, I said G54B rebuild it as I wanted it as its release engine. We'll he re-built the engine only and put that in the car but didn't nothing for 3 years on it, so I had to pull it. 3) drop it off at another Starquest enthusist, he put it together, turbo, manifold, downpipe, new intercooler, piping, megasquirt wiring, even the muffler was given to him in hand. in 2 months it was packaged up, but couldn't get the MPI started. 4) now til date I fixed all the issues over two years myself (due to time and training myself and work time), multimeter checks, soldering skills, basic 101 stuff. Now everthing is talking back to me on the microsquirt module build / megasquirt system software tools. It finally turned over this month, barely, meaning I heard an exhaust note. More so when new plugs are put in. But here's the issue, gas is now drowning the intake earlier enough before spark is sent, because of this RPM noise is not firing spark soon enough because of the RPM noise(shoot, I must have 8 tune types with now 150 logs), and yes the main man has reviewed and followed up on all my requests/questions on this. Plus I have marching orders, so I don't want to bother him with the basic many questions I have. So I'm asking the group for their advice as why not, I was probably told what to do, but maybe someone else needs to give me an experience or chime in to get me thinking outside of the box. Or just focus on this etc... Thanks in advance any support you can supply.
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