TSITy

The stock ECU has a separate wire and sensor from the gauge. You will be able to remove the ECU harness with no issues. Worst case scenario, you can always just run a drop from the gauge cluster out to the temp sensor, then you will know that it is hooked up correctly, but you should not have to do this.

To do digital to analog, you will need a mechanical speedometer cable, an analog fuel sending unit (it has a green connector), and it makes it much easier if you have a parts interior harness so you can splice the stock analog plug end on (I have one if you need it), unless you have a different preferred plug like deutsch, weatherpack, etc. It will be harder to convert back to digital in this case, as the digital dash has plugs right into the cluster, unlike the analog which has a pigtail. But if it doesn't work, you probably don't care. I would buy the parts you have remaining (you will have a leftover digital fuel sending unit (blue plug), and a speed pulse generator that you will have to remove to install the mechanical speedo cable, DO NOT THROW THIS STUFF AWAY!!! I will buy them) and the cooked cluster if you want to do this swap. I like fixing boards. Be aware that it isn't super easy to swap this stuff; it does make it easier if I make the schematics

The technica cluster does not need any signals from the ECU. I can provide you the entire pinout and schematic that I have drawn up, although the colors may be inaccurate as I put it in an 87. It is currently unfinished. I converted my car from analog -> digital gauges and still need to finish the HVAC patch cable that I've been putting off, but the rest of it is finished and confirmed working. When this is done completely, I will be posting the schematics for free for anyone to use (unlike a lot of people who have charged for these things in the past). I can send you the unfinished one if you'd like

http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_nav.html click electrical and download. This is 88 only so if you have a different model it will be different. If you have an 87, a lot of things are the same.

The passing control relay (plugged into B-39 to the left of the glove box behind the dash) is primarily comprised of circuitry to raise the headlights. The reason it looks so complicated is because of the theft alarm circuit that is built into it. The ECU (this is really the ETACS computer under the driver seat, it is sometimes referred to as ECU in the schematics) can activate the headlights to raise and flash when the car decides it is being stolen (there's lots of ways to trigger it). I can break the pinout down if you really want me to, but that's the gist of it. These cars are pretty easy to steal regardless, so there's not much harm done in removing the anti theft headlight flashing feature. If you ctrl-f in the electrical schematics on the phrase "passing control relay", it describes this anti theft feature in great detail. I would certainly not waste $100 on a replacement and wire in a suitable relay with a plug of your choice. It really doesn't matter. Just make sure it's a common part that isn't NLA or discontinued. Any time I have a part like this fail on one of my cars, I find a suitable part that is readily available and install it. I have not had to do this with the passing control relay as I have several spares. When the day comes, it will be cut out.

There's a coolant hose on top of the heater core that people usually replace while the dash is out. There are other smaller items that can be rebuilt, but the coolant hose is the main one.

Check the passing relay behind the glove box

The only vacuum line you need to have the car running is the one to the distributor. All the others are "extra". Though, you'll want to keep the one by itself on the bottom going to the cabin if you want your vents to actuate. It all depends on what you want to keep.

To test the TPS you need an analog volt meter. Digital ones (even expensive) don't have a high enough sampling rate to see the small discontinuities in the sweep.

It'll be hard to get that price for a broken flatty. I never see them go for much money, even in great running condition. Fix it up the rest of the way and hopefully someone will be interested. GLWS.

You can add adjustable to stock setup with these: https://groundcontrolstore.com/products/coilover-conversion-kit-83-89-dodge-conquest-starion Or Mookeeh has lowering springs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/146078894384?_skw=conquest&itmmeta=01J9E7WAMBTEC2NWASEF8ZABQ2&hash=item2202fb0930:g:Ca4AAOSwtzRnACW3 I like the eibach's personally, you can still adjust back to stock ride height. And leave the stock shocks in. With the mookeeh lowering springs you should really get the shorter shocks too.

Must be back up. I would load it in and get a white screen.

I was going to grab an electrical manual and the website only loads to a white screen.

Just to update this; deleting the sub condenser seems to be fine. All you need is two new lines to do the normal non 88-89 A/C line routing. I haven't had any major cooling issues, and I even have my transmission cooler up by the main condenser.

Being able to easily post pictures would probably assist with this. Facebook makes it way too easy to just upload massive picture files easily.

My TPS had a discontinuity in the sweep. After replacing that and doing an idle reset, the car now idles well when hot. I still have a slight misfire on cold start but it was reduced by like 90% of the duration time, so I probably won't chase the issue any further.

Yeah so that kind of lines up with what I was thinking. I'll check the harness and make sure every connection is still good.

I have a strange run of issues on one of my conquests that I can't seem to figure out. To start off, all emissions are deleted and I have a catless downpipe. Using stock ECU. The car has an OVCP with a turbo XS blow off valve in which I've confirmed doesn't leak by removing it and putting in a block off. The car also has a freshly cleaned & sealed tank, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, new fuel lines, Southbay injectors, SPA adjustable FPR (set at 48 PSI), freshly rebuilt throttle body, and new injector clips. I have a full time electric fuel pressure gauge and can see the fuel pressure never blips so I know the issue isn't fuel (have also confirmed it is accurate using a mechanical gauge). I recently installed a AEM wideband to help diagnose this issue. The car is running stock boost and is an 89. It also has an automatic which doesn't matter. I've confirmed timing and even redid the ignition timing with no results. It has good spark with an MSD blaster 2, NGK plug wires, and new NGK copper plugs. Spark is good with no blowout, and I can run the car at WOT @14 PSI with no issues. I've also sprayed all the joints where there could be vacuum leaks, and the RPMs never climbed, so it's not a vacuum leak (unless it's the intake gasket as I'll mention later). Now onto the issue. The car will misfire for about 10-20 seconds on cold start consistently. Doesn't matter what temperature it is outside, it will always misfire for that amount of time. It seems like if it's colder, it is worse. Once the misfire clears up, the car actually idles very good and idles at an AFR of 14.7, crazy. After ripping it around the block and getting it warm, on dead stop idle the car will randomly blip to 20 AFR on idle and act like it's going to die. Once again, not fuel pressure. I do have an "engine code" as seen in the video for the ISC (edit: the code is actually for the TPS), but I've replaced it with one of the other good units from a starion I have and it didn't change anything. I am pretty stubborn so this could actually be the issue, but I just don't think it is. My plan of attack at this point is to do a continuity check on the entire ECU harness because I think that's where the issue lies. I will also do the intake gasket just for fun, since I'll be resealing the AC compressor. If that doesn't work, I'm going to remove the ISC altogether and apply my own form of idle control probably with an On-Off solenoid. Could this be mechanical failure? Maybe. I have a hard time believing it is because it drives very well normally aside from warm idle and cold starts. Video:

If you have an 88-89 (page 21 in the electrical manual) I and G in the diagram are the locations. Left side of the radio panel. Check to make sure the blower is grounded as well, it has its own ground cable that grounds near the ECU. This is usually why they don't work, I've never had a blower motor relay go out.

I've been meaning to get around to delete the A/C sub condenser but I haven't gotten around to it yet. Too many projects at one time. I have most of the parts to do it at the moment, just need to gather parts to make new lines. I've talked to guys that do A/C in semis and they don't understand why there would be a sub condenser, but of course they aren't engineers. I will be posting an update with how well it works and if I run into any issues (probably in the next 3 months or so).

I agree this would be the ideal way to fix it; however, I don't have the funds to replace EVERYTHING. Just enough to make it work.

Posting this in automatic transmissions because the AC sub condenser is exclusive to the versions of the car with an automatic. I'm going through converting the AC in my 89 to use R134a. My AC sub condenser is pretty beat up, and I don't really want to fork over the insane amount of cash that a good one will cost. I'm planning on just deleting it entirely and running the main condenser only. Anyone done this or any thoughts on this?

I'd be more inclined to do detailed writeups if we could upload larger photos. Makes it a real pain when an external tool needs to be used.

All of mine also do this. I wouldn't be concerned.

Looks pretty roached for the price. Though if you sold the parts you might come out ahead.