ucw458

Specs are in the FSM. www.starquestgarage.com Pull it out and move it up and down while reading the resistance. Any big hiccups or dead spots will show on the meter. If it works fine then there may be a bad connection to the gauge somewhere or a bad gauge.

Sweep test your sending unit first.

207 bar

Bad master/slave or broken clutch fork.

I've rebuilt a couple automatics. Once you do the first one you don't fear them anymore. Everything has it's place inside them and it's kinda hard to put something in the wrong spot.

$20 of gas is around 5 gallons here. Tank holds 20 gallons. Math.

Rebuild the auto trans. They are easier than you think. If you can build an engine you can build an auto trans. Parts for the rebuild can be less than $500 if it's mostly clutches and seals. If you really want something else, Toyota makes good vehicles.

Bigger turbos, fuel pumps, ICs, pipes, etc etc don't get you past the stock injector roadblock. The stock ECU is only going to work with stock size injectors and they can only support so much power. Only by running an aftermarket fuel controller can you get through that roadblock. If I was going to build another stock TBI car I would do TD06 16g, wideband, bigger exhaust and MBC set between 15-20 psi. If I wanted more I would ditch the stock setup and go with Scotts TBI MS setup or go MPI.

The stock ECU doesn't compensate for anything timing related. All timing advance and retard is controlled mechanically by the distributor. Knock retard is controlled by the stock ignitor. A bigger turbo wont add more air unless you turn up the boost. You can hit the limits of the stock fuel system pretty quick once you go past 15 psi. The better option if you want more power is a standalone ECU controlling timing and fuel. That way you can run bigger injectors and more boost. A TD05 20g will have too small of a hot side. TD05H is minimum with a 20g. TD06, TD06H or TD06SL2 is a prefered size. I ran a TD05H 20g on my MPI. It worked but the small hotside gave me 15 psi @ 2500 RPM. Sounds good but that meant I was almost always in boost. Kinda killed fuel mileage. A TBI setup would spool it higher in the RPM range due to less air flow through the intake.

I've used a 2 post and a 4 post lift. I preferred the 4 post lift. More stable and easier to use. You can get jacks for the center if you want to lift the tires off the ramps.

The vacuum line helps the trans decide when to shift. The higher the vacuum the lower the rpm it will shift when cruising. As far as I know there isn't a computer but I haven't looked into it much. You will need to wire in the reverse lights and there is an OD solenoid. I'm assuming it's electric. Sorry I can't help more without diving into the FSM. Most of my SQ experience is with manual trans cars.

Never heard of a stock auto insurance manual car. You will need the flex plate and stiffening rings. You will also need the bushing that fits in the crank to support the torque converter. May be a few wiring issues too.

I'm betting broken turbine shaft too. But don't give up on it yet. Take it apart first. Wheels, shafts and bearings can be replaced. It may still be repairable. I've seen worse that were rebuilt. But you won't know till you take it apart.

Could be a bad HVAC computer or display. It could also be the light controller for the HVAC display. To the left of the glove box behind the dask you will find a black box with 8 wires on the connector iirc. It's labeled light controller. That controls the dimmer function for the HVAC display. I have seen a few go bad. But check the simple stuff first like fuses and grounds.

You're not going to get rated flow from that tiny inlet. That looks like a chinese knock off pump to me.

One for each. 2 resistors in the resistor pack.

3" GM mass slides into the stock acordian hose. Then get a $20 spectre cone filter from an auto parts store. Get the universal kind with sections you remove for bigger pipes.

Sounds like their problem. Warranty repair. The shop should be able to find parts.

you took the trans apart?

Yes. Think of the band like a clutch in a manual transmission. The band stops a drum from turning and that engages OD. If the band is too loose it can't stop the drum. It can feel like a slipping clutch or no engagement.

Seller also has zero feedback. Personally I wouldn't risk thousands of dollars on a person with zero feedback.

He's saying flex plate but he probably means block plate. The block plate is the sheet metal spacer between the block and trans. Kinda have to put that on before the flywheel and clutch.

You just lose a little power when you heat soak. Kinda like driving a non IC car. They are noticeably quicker when the engine is cold.

Well someone beat me to it. I've been planning this for 3 years now. Fixing this house has been more of a priority. I'm still gonna build one. Hope to get started maybe this year. That swap is an advanced swap. Requires cutting out big sections of frame from 2 cars. Lots of measurements, cutting, welding and you have to support whats left of the front end before you cut the frame. Very easy to destroy 2 cars with this swap if you don't know what you are doing.

You could have too much slack in the OD band. Passenger side front of the trans there is a cover held on by 3 bolts. Under that cover is a screw and locknut. This is the OD band adjustment. Loosen the locknut then tighten the screw to 5-7 ft lbs. The back the screw out 2 turns and tighten the locknut.