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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/01/24 in Posts

  1. Johnny Wadd has a post from 2013 in this section on how to do this, but like so many other threads, all the pics are missing, so here's my recreation of this process: You can remove the console latch with the center console still installed in the car. You do NOT have to remove it the whole console unless you want to for some reason. For this tutorial, this console was already removed. First, remove the flocked bin/cubby inside your console by prying up on it. It'll pop out. Next, remove the two hinge bolts that hold the lid. The lid will be removable at this point. Now remove the 4 larger screws you see. Under the map lid you will find 5 smaller screws. Remove all five. Remove the hard plastic piece and you'll have access to the latch. If it's broken, it may just fall out. Don't lose the spring. Wrap the coil spring around your new / or repaired console latch like so. Back in the lid there are two VERY small pin holes. Carefully feed the two posts on the coil spring into the console lid pin holes and snap the latch gently into place. It should look like this. Reverse the process and put the map holder back in with the 5 screws. If the spring is installed properly the latch will be "sprung" into a downward position. When latched, it'll sit in a downward position like so. The act of pulling up on it will unlatch it and allow you open the console lid. The plastic tab on the latch should catch on the plastic ledge cast into the console as shown. That's it. You've replaced, or repaired your center console latch. Reinstall the rest of the screws as necessary put your lid back on the console and enjoy your ride on step closer to perfection!
    3 points
  2. Finally got a batch of these printed up this week: The glossier 6 on the left are PETG. The more flat black 2 on the right are ABS. I was having some distortion issues with the ABS and had to throw a bunch of them out b/c I wasn't happy with the quality. I have another batch of 6 going in PETG as we speak. If anyone wants one, 15 shipped should do it (10+5 shipping). Shoot me a PM and I'll get one out to you. Things are kinda dead around here these days unfortunately, but if there's enough continual interest I'll put a formal F/S thread in the Bazaar and I can print them as needed.
    2 points
  3. Check it out Starquest on youtube Dad
    2 points
  4. Tony has it, picking it up on Sunday. SOLD!
    2 points
  5. My cargo light wouldnt come on. The problem was that switch that techboy showed a pic of. I sprayed it with electronics contact cleaner while working the switch back and forth and now the light works, yay!
    1 point
  6. Could toss some on my site. Dad
    1 point
  7. Well I'm a little embarrassed to say it's taken me about a year of working here and there as I've had time and about 8 prototypes to FINALLY come up with a repo console latch that works properly. I've been super close for a few months now, was just a matter of adjusting a few things literally by 32nds. I need to print a final black one at work on Monday and test again, but if it fits I should be able to run a batch of them later in the week if anyone is interested. I'm not sure what to charge for these, but I'll come up with something. 😎
    1 point
  8. I think it may be more of people don't realize it's "a thing". I got Mikie "19cturbo" looking into it.
    1 point
  9. I sold that back in 2021 owned it 10 years Dad
    1 point
  10. If you do notice that there is a certain website selling a subframe for the starion to hold a Ford 8.8. stay away from it
    1 point
  11. You’re right, I didn’t 😆 I just couldn’t stay away! Lol
    1 point
  12. Shame, was really hoping this guy would turn it around. Guess I'll have to go local for my rack swap.
    1 point
  13. Well... It arrived yesterday and I am impressed. Its in basically NEW condition. It does not even look like it was ever used. All the cables are in new condition and connectors too. I have done some reading up on new ECU modules and systems and while I would like to go that route sometime... now is not feasible. I found this on Ebay for $75.00... and the correct cable amazingly for $15.00.... Cable is coming today. Finding that cable is like finding a needle in a haystack I think... Anyhow.. we shall see how it goes.
    1 point
  14. Looks like someone else got screwed and is mad https://www.ndd-motorsports.com/ I just filed papers in small claims court
    1 point
  15. Beagle ... let me give this a print tomorrow at work and try it out on my car. I'll keep you posted.
    1 point
  16. I actually had in mind years ago to work on developing these when that guy came along. I didn't want to steal his thunder, so I backed off. But, since the board reboot I haven't seen him nor do I remember who it was - so I started working on them again. These prototypes are just PLA. I have PETG, but I found a spool of black of ABS at work on Friday, so I was planning on giving that a shot. Plus a higher quality, these are printed at a medium right now. I think the final will look a lot nicer.
    1 point
  17. Starion Conquest wiper cowl - Motocam360.com
    1 point
  18. So, before I bolt the front grill back in place, I wanted to do a little bit of custom work. I stumbled across this photo that someone posted a while back by accident and it made me stop my scrolling instantly. I love the look of relocating the rear Starion trunk badge up front. Now I just have to figure out how to do it. So if anyone wants to recreate this look, here's how I went about it. It's hard to see, but I started by measuring and marking out where I needed to cut the grill. I very carefully cut the plastic out with a dremel with a blade installed. Then I cut out a piece of cardboard and mocked up how the badge would look. You need to some way to "mount", so I needed a flat surface behind the badge. So I got some model clay and packed the empty area with the clay. It looks something like this... I let that dry overnight. In the morning, I popped it out. Now I have a profile shape I can measure. I drew the shape in CAD and they cut out some plastic with a laser to test fit. Came out perfect. Then I 3D printed a "filler" that length of my opening I cut. Looks pretty good. And better yet, it fits!! Now that I know I fits I printed out a black one. I drilled two holes in the grill to line up with the holes I located in my 3D printed part. Some glue, screws and clamping and now we let it dry. Super excited to see how this is going to come out.
    1 point
  19. 1 point
  20. I repainted mine with Dupicolor black trim and bumper cover paint. I've used it a bunch of times on various things and it's always worked pretty well.
    1 point
  21. SEM bumper black. It has the adhesion promoters in it that are needed for plastic parts.
    1 point
  22. Oil runs thru the rocker shafts, so it may not be the head, was the block resurfaced without the front cover attached? Dad Dads Engine Parts
    1 point
  23. Hi! I do an awful lot of lurking around here and the Facebook pages. Pretty sure I lost my original account in the last website crash, but that's okay. Most of my info searches are done here. It's easier to find what I'm looking for on the forums, assuming the pages still exist. SQC has a wealth of information
    1 point
  24. Hello! I wish more people would come back here too. Especially the new guys/gals. FB doesn't always give good advice and a lot of what people are asking is already documented here.
    1 point
  25. 😭😭😭😭 found some pics of my old cars...
    1 point
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