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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/19/26 in Posts

  1. Hope to have an update on my starions soon. Been busy with work, my house and my grand kid. Need to make time for my cars. Hope you all are doing ok!
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  2. I have also been watching this. Especially since I have an 87 Valencia in the garage 😄
    1 point
  3. fitment was perfect.pretty impressive for a small work force.im waiting for the factory wing thats why asked.radio bezel nice too .want him to make shifter bezel and seat belt release panel too.had to wrap those.
    1 point
  4. Going around the corners is a little tricky. I had to slice the back side of the U-channel of the edge trim with a razor blade to get it to fold around nice. Used a few dabs of 3M trim adhesive to hold it in position on the back side. Edge trim was sourced from McMaster-Carr. Leave the little gap on the bottom for moisture to run out...just like it was stock.
    1 point
  5. Is this BOV something you'd be interested in? I've had it for years, was planning to run it for the period correct coolness but my car came with a perfectly good Greddy on it so I'd be okay with letting it go. I have tested it and it works. Would look amazing polished up with some new stainless hardware. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.
    1 point
  6. I've got the HKS intake plumbing and bypass valve, but not really looking to get rid of it at the moment. I do have period correct Greddy/Trust parts that I don't mind getting rid of I have: Greddy Profec-A (fuzzy logic) boost controller, all wiring, sensors, manual Greddy Rebic III auxillary fuel controller with wiring, manual Greddy fuel injectors, bosses welded into an over valve cover pipe Greddy Rebic III simulator with connector cable to connect to rebic III, manual Greddy Turbo Timer The Greddy parts were pulled from my car, working when I moved to MPFI with AEM
    1 point
  7. The a/c relays are the small square ones bolted to the bracket near the ignition coil. Three run the fans, the 4th runs the compressor clutch. The clutch relay has green+white, yellow+white, black+white, and blue+red wires feeding it. If it clicks, the a/c computer is trying to run the system. No clicks? Then keep reading... The a/c system has a couple sensors that prevent it from engaging. One is the "dual pressure switch" which is one of the sensors screwed into the metal a/c line near the passenger headlight - at the receiver/dryer canister. One sensor will have a small two-wire connector that looks like a double-barrel shotgun (siamesed cylinders) and the other is a plain connector with green+yellow and green+white wires. Disconnect the plain one and jumper across the pins in the harness. If your a/c now starts, either your refrigerant pressure is low (refrigerant leak someplace) or too high (unlikely). This switch kills the a/c if there isn't enough refrigerant to maintain a minimum system OFF pressure... this protects the compressor from running on a dry system and not getting its oil. The switch also opens if the refrigerant pressuge gets way too high (thus the "dual" nature of the switch - low and high pressure sensitive) to keep hoses from bursting. The other sensor is an engine coolant temp sensor. If the engine is about to overheat, the a/c is disabled. This sensor commonly disintegrates internally. Look for a one-wire sensor in the thermostat housing with a yellow+white wire. Unplug that wire and hook it to ground. If the a/c now runs, the sensor is kaputt. I'll bet the connector prong on the sensor wiggles/twists... mike c.
    1 point
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