Leaderboard

They are set up for production. Modeled in CAD with CNC machined fixtures and all parts are CNC machined for perfect repeatable fitment.

I can't see the video nor any pictures - none of the links work now. But a common issue with the vacuum actuators is the face/foot actuator getting cracks/splits/tears in the rubber bellows part. That becomes a big vacuum leak and the actuator fails to fully move in that direction. A temp fix is to slather epoxy over the split area, sealing it. But soon another part of the bellows will split/tear... Go to a hobby store that sells radio controlled cars and boats. They often have similar looking rubber bellows for the boat drive and steering mechanisms. Find one that is similar in diameter at each end and use that to replace the factory bellows. Cut the factory bellows part in the ribbed section - leaving the ends (where it clamps the actuator shaft and the face of the actuator body) intact. That'll give the R/C bellows something to grip/attach to. A little epoxy will seal the new R/C bellows to the remnants of the original bellows ends. Other folks have discovered a bellows inside the door is similar too... a junkyard run may be in order. As for the fan motor itself... the climate control computer uses a Darlington pair "power transistor" (a physically large transistor that can handle the amps of the motor and has a high gain) to adjust the fan speeds when the system is on AUTO mode. In manual mode, the system uses that same transistor for low fan speeds. For manual and AUTO modes, when MAX fan speed is selected a relay bypasses the transistor to supply full battery voltage directly to the motor. That relay is one of the relays attached to the evaporator box underneath the dash. Connector B-73 with black, blue+black, blue+yellow, and a red wire on the wiring harness side of the connector. Another issue: the "brushes" inside the motor wear down. Motor brushes are just rectangular shaped carbon bricks; a wire is attached to one end and the other end rubs against the rotating armature of the motor, wearing into an arc=shaped end. That arc-shaped end gets shorter and shorter as the brush wears from use. The guts of the motor will be full of carbon dust when this happens. It is a bit of a dirty pain to replace the brushes but it can be done. Take one old brush to a motor repair shop, a fully stocked ACE hardware store, or some other place that sells replacement brushes (they'll be in those metal cases just like the screw assortments) and find a brush with the same cross section size and at least as much wire length. The new brush should be much longer, about half an inch long if I remember correctly. It's been ages since I had a StarQuest interior fan motor apart... and I've had many other motors apart since then. mike c.

Sorry it's been so long since I got back to this - busy at work. So, the one I made out of Nylon fits on, but I had to really force it. It's a tad tight, I couldn't even push it all the way down. I gotta lossen up the tolerances a bit and reprint. I think it'll be good on the 2nd try. If so, I'll send GTRBillet the file and hopefully we can get these made out of derlin.

mks motorsports sells a complete new unit.great company as well.

Eh. Cover the filter and all wiring. Then have at it. Some funk might be stopping leaks, so maybe be prepared for that

Got 8 throttle plate screws left from a set of 10 I bought. If anyone needs a set, I will send them via an envelope and stamp for free. Limit 4 screws per person.

I'm guilty for not posting much although I do get on almost daily, I can't stand the picture issue, I tried to update my rebuild post and resized pictures and still ran out of room and gave up. Dad

I used that picture for a presentation back in college 25 years ago! It has to be on the web somewhere. Or a flashdrive somewhere in my desk. Maybe

Nope it’s not necessary to change both…any many people do not (some do, but not required at all) Steve

I absolutely hate the factory auto shifter. Way too faded, way too tall, and just too damn dorky looking for my taste. So,… I removed it. And cut it up. I shortened the shaft by 2.5”. Inside that shaft is a little weenie actuator rod that unscrews from the gear selector part of the mechanism. Initially I used it as a reference for where that part would have to be cut, but ultimately unscrewed that dude, and discarded it. The conversion kit I bought uses a 1/4” diameter rod instead. The problem is that the base that the weenie rod unscrewed out of didn’t have enough meat to support a 1/4” re-thread. All It would accept was an 8-32 tap. That meant I’d have to drill and tap the other end of my 1/4” bolt that now rides in the middle of the shifter shaft…..By hand…with just a regular hand held drill. Ultimately, I managed to get it centered and straight “ enough” to put a short section of threaded 8-32 rod in place in the 1/4 bolt, so that I could screw the bolt into the base. The kit is cheap. Purchased from a C-3 Corvette supplier it comes with an adapter to allow a conventional manual shifter handle/ball to screw onto it that screws onto a 1/4” shaft that controls the shift selector pattern. There’s also a sleeve that screws to the adapter that slides over the shaft to control the up/down movement of the handle…30 bucks. https://www.speeddawg.com/universal-automatic-shifter-adapter-with-16mm-x-1-50-threads-polished-aluminum/#gallery it only comes shiny……I don’t like shiny, so I painted mine. Hopefully that’ll last. I also had to deal with the factory gear position indicator decal that was cloudy and peeling away from the back side. I just eliminated it, sanded it smooth and painted the back side black. The pattern decal that is on top, is from B&M, and comes with 5 other pattern decals that you’ll never use. Big waste as far as I’m concerned, but at least it gives some sense of the gear it’s in. presently is no longer illuminated, but I may change that w/a small tiny light that will light from the side once the console is back on top. Also, the O/D button needs to be moved, and I’ll just relocate that switch to the console itself too. supposed to be a vid,…but I don’t know what’s required here to make this work.

If you still have your 225mm, you can have it lightened at a machine shop as well as have it re-drilled for a 240mm pressure plate. That will be the cheaper and easier option

Tr- star radiator repairs them https://tristarrradiator.com/ Dad

The Prius EPAS unit arrived yesterday, and I dove right into making it work. This is another mod that requires yet another set of irreversible hacks to a fairly expensive factory part on the car, and when you start, there ain’t no turning back. MOF, not only are you gonna butcher the steering column, you have to butcher the Prius PS assembly before you even have a prayer of getting the thing in there. The steering wheel has to come off, and the column removed and gutted.It has to be cut short, leaving only about 1.5” to extend past the tilt mount point. The factory brake light switch is in the way, it has to be eliminated. For me, and acceptable sacrifice. I intend to put an adjustable brake proportioning valve that has a pressure sensing brake light switch in instead. When you remove the steering shaft from the Mitsubishi column, you’ll see the factory “crumple zone” built into its length. The purpose being to help minimize the chance that the steering column becomes a spear that impales you in a front end collision. When you do this mod, the shaft becomes so short the factory crumple zone is completely cut away. The factory steering column steering shaft is originally like 36” long, but after the butchery, the remaining “ factory” part of the shaft will end up at 12” or less. All this has to happen because you gotta fit this thing up under the dash..Hopefully all of the required u joints required to make this thing hook up, eliminates the “ column thru your sternum” thingy. I got this pic from the Ranger Station. The guy that did that write up should be your go to if you aren’t scared away from doing this. The info, options and detail he provides far eclipses anything I intend to do here. I’m just letting you know what you’re gonna run into when, and if you decide to do this. Anyway……I cut the above Prius contraption about 1.5” to the right of the motor. Inside is a splined shaft with a male/female thing going on inside. It will slide apart. At the far right end there is a clip that allows the shaft to be removed from the outer tube. you can remove and get rid of the outer, it’ll serve you no purpose. You keep the shaft. When you cut the mitsu column 1.5” beyond the tilt mount plate, it is conveniently the same size as the Prius outer….it will slide over the remaining stub coming off the Prius assembly. From there, it’d be so easy if you could just weld the Mitsubishi column to the Prius motor,…….but there’s plastic, and electrical thingys on the Prius assembly that cant be removed to safely weld the thing together. So things get ugly from here. I made a plate to bolt to the motor so I could build tabs that would allow me to bolt the two sections together. It still requires tack welding in order to get the thing lined up well enough so when you remove the plate and column you can weld it securely, and no heat gets transferred to the plastic inside the motor assembly. If that little torque sensor processor thingy ( that you can’t remove) doesn’t tolerate any kind of welding current even be it tack welding, I won’t know until after I try it out. For now the ugly little btch can be bolted together. I have to cut and weld the inner shaft, and splice the Mitsubishi shaft to the Prius shaft as a still left to do… after that I’ll hang the assembly and make the shaft that connects the 17mm splined output of the motor to a 3/4 double d shaft that’ll allow me to mate it to the manual charger rack. Thatll be two weeks from today though.

Let the alignment shop do it. They won't remove the wheel, most likely. But they can get it straightened and you can realign the wheel later

I have a printed out picture of the red starri in a folder somewhere. There was also a person in CT way back when that did a 2nd gen supra like this in yellow. I think the 2.6 site had a pic in there album too

nawww too many mini-melt downs during that process there’d be 57 beeps in the vid.

Gunk engine degreaser on it all. Let it sit and powerwash away! Just avoid obvious sensitive areas. Never had a issue.

Filter and non factory wire connections get covered. Everything else is made to withstand water as long as you don't pressure wash it up close. Elbow grease will be needed if it's caked on crud. Blue dawn soap works good with some brush work to get the bubbles going.

I've dine this before with several cars. I really like using Simple Green. An old toothbrush can be really helpful too for all the tight spots. Never done the Starion bay before, but mines not really very dirty either.

Neat cars, always like them as a kid. Here's an interesting project that I just took on for a fellow forum member who has a build in progress. 240sx top, conquest middle, tubular bottom with 240sx rack.

The 2 green ones I made out of ABS yesterday just to test fit them, but I couldn't get them to print right, I keep getting melty inner layer of plastic in the inside for some reason. I'm not sure why, it's set to solid and high quality. This morning I made the black one out of Nylon. I'll test fit it tonight and see how it fits and adjust the file as necessary. The Nylon is currently set to medium quality.

Thank you for the input. No, I have no affiliation with NDD and this IS my own design. I've been doing this (machining/fabricating) full time for 22 years now. You think a plate under each "end"? You could actually quite readily jack on the "ends" of the center tube now. I thought maybe we were talking about a center jack point? Either way I can do whatever you want if you happen to order one. I have everything here in house including the powder coating. Located in Southern New Hampshire. I can put this on my website. I didn't want to violate any forum rules by saying the name of the business etc.

I have been on vacation the last week, so I forgot about all of this. Puerto Rico sounds right. I'll try to remember to look tonight

I don't need one right away. I'd be good with either a heat resistant print or delrin. @techboyI'd think nylon would be best. I'm not sure how hot it gets there TBH. It's enough for it to burn a bare hand. @ssblast20 if @GTRbilletwants to make a few out of delrin in case others would need them as well, I'd rather you send to him, if it would help the community, maybe can be a source for Dad to sell with rebuild kits. Else I'll take it directly @ssblast20.

Just make sure we're all on the same page ... it's this guy we're talking about, right? I'm gonna try and draw one up now and give a prototype print tomorrow if I have a moment.

I can send you one if you need one- Steve

I could machine one from delrin. I just need an existing one to reverse.

I can do Nylon and ABS. Probably couldn't get to it till next week though. How soon do you need it? I never actually messed with printing Nylon but I have several spools. How hot do you think it gets in the TB? Nylon is good to 420 and ABS 212 from what I'm seeing online.

Hi. Yes, the tube would be plenty strong enough. Though you make a good point. You wouldn't want to gouge or dent the tube. Especially if made from chromoly is actually quite thin. Maybe it would be a good idea to incorporate some kind of "lift point". As in a plate or pin welded on for the jack to interface with. I'm always open to suggestions. Thank you for your interest.

The original front subframe is one of the lift points if using a floor jack. Would this be strong enough to also be used as a lift point? Regardless, very interested in the finished product

All TIG welded and powder coated in house. Available in 1 5/8" x .120 wall DOM or 1 5/8" by .083 wall Chromoly.

Ya, that's me.

Hi everyone I don't generally come here much although I still have a starion mouldering in the shed Coming back here, one of the first things that hit me was how many forum categories there are, and how many had 'most recent activity' listed as being years and year ago. It looks bad, posting is spread too thin and it makes the site look dead. Maybe merge some of the topic categories? and get rid of all the dead links (the "list of starion sites" is heartbreaking to actually try and click on any of the links) Obviously this wont bring any new people here but it might help them stick around

Mitsubishi refers to it as a joint lol. Part # MD608978. Amayama in Japan still shows they have them in stock, but kind of pricey. Buy Genuine Mitsubishi MD608978 Joint,injection Mixer Inr;joint,throttle Body Inr. Prices, fast shipping, photos, weight - Amayama

On the other community I belong to every person gets a certain amount of space & bandwidth for their media section. You can become a donating member and get unlimited bandwidth & space if needed.

If you absolutely sure all the fuse links are good, even the main link on the battery terminal then I would check all the grounding points. 88_conquest_service_manual_-_group_26_-_electrical.pdf (starquestgarage.com)

I remember hearing about it.

Bought a set of D2's from him, easy transaction, accurate description, thanks!. @scott87star

I think I’m creating so many different topics, I’m gonna have to have some of them merged. In reality, this should go under the since I’ve gone this far thread, but I’m trying to keep it all under one roof when concentrating on the build progress. It also makes sense to me that a mod that I do to the car needs it’s own thread so someone looking for that specific thing doesn’t have to wade through a build thread to get to it. Anyway……..* I digress*. Since the engine is out and the bay is in “pre-detail” status The left side of my brain has rationalized adding a Prius EPAS unit to the column ( since it’s also out too). In the back of my head, I know that a manual rack with a 3.6 turn lock to lock ratio is gonna be a mother to steer at parking lot speeds, especially with an 8” front wheel with a commensurate fat freakin tire mounted to it. So today I ordered it. What used to be 75 bucks a few years ago is now 200+ though but still cheap when considering an electric power assisted steering system. It looks like I can make it work, 🤞.

Back then people dogged the car because I didn’t try and put a Chrysler V8 in it to keep it “ in the family”. 🙄 Last time I checked, Chrysler didn’t have any “family” members in Japan. The 347/363/393 ford engines that I put in the two CQ/ Starions I had in 2003-2007 fit like the car was made for them. Front sump orientation, short front-rear, narrow side-side made them all too easy to do. I wish digital photos were easy to deal with back then, but it was the time that it was. But fortunately, because of the two prior cars, I’m pretty confident I can make things work that aren’t supposed to work on the current car

Maybe it was because you used Ford!!!

This was after I put some wax on it, this was how it looked before that.

Hello, if you anyone is possibly interested in any carbon fiber or fiberglass parts for the Starquest. Please feel free to reach out to us through our email @ BoostedDiamonds@gmail.com for more assistance, or visit our site at www.BoostedDiamonds.com Thank you! Janner Boosted Diamonds http://Www.boosteddiamonds.com

Lot of stuff has been added to the site https://www.enginemachineservice.com/ems/index.php

When you say it won't 're-crank', do you mean the starter isn't working or that it won't fire up on cranking? In either case, start by focusing in on your fusible links. Check them all in detail as well as the connections for the fusible link box.