Bill Hincher Posted June 14, 2010 Report Share Posted June 14, 2010 looks good, and yes you worked you heart out on that job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotStock88 Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 (edited) I give you HUGE props for this build. Your doing a build nothing like i have never seen before on a quest. I really look forward to seeing it at a meet. Edited June 16, 2010 by NotStock88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Thanks guys. I'm grabbing some more steel tonight (again) hopefully I'll get it wrapped up by this weekend. Stupid vacations going to set me back fund wise...oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tehzack Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Stupid vacations going to set me back fund wise...oh well. Lol, you can always tell a person who's truly passionate about cars... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 (edited) lol. It wouldn't bother me as much, but the money I'm gonna spend there is enough to finish my car. Plus time away. Edited June 16, 2010 by idriftjunk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 John whats the specs on your wheels? if you don't mind me askingRandy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted July 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 John whats the specs on your wheels? if you don't mind me askingRandy I haven't checked offset #'s but they are 17x9.5 in the front and 17x11 in the rear. 235 40's on the front and 275 40's in the rear. Update time.. Just got back from vacation, now back to work. I got my wire harness stripped, new throttle body and MAF, also got the ecu flashed to what I want.. Removing all the junk I don't need, rasing rev limiter, etc etc. Going to hopefully get the whole thing primed and painted by the end of this weekend. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0713.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0718.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0721.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0724.jpggot these... http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0726.jpg3 days later...made these..http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0819.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0805.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0804.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0803.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 BEAUTIFUL!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 what are you going to do for brakes? booster-less and a bias?i still have the booster but its like 1mm clearance from the valve cover. jockin the simplicity of the headers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 what are you going to do for brakes? booster-less and a bias?i still have the booster but its like 1mm clearance from the valve cover. jockin the simplicity of the headers! Yeah I'm not 100%sure yet. Its really close to working. If I relocate a coil pack, and maybe dent the booster a bit...( I heard of ppl doing this) I might be able to make it fit. If not I can get a smaller booster. I could go booster less too.. its kinda like everything else on this car, going to cross that bridge when I get there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 you know how the boosters have a 3/4" spacer or whatever behind them, what if we just remove that and cut down the plunger so the long travel dosnt push through the bladder inside the booster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Yeah I thouhgt about that, but because I put the motor so far rearward, it doesn't matter. I'd almost have too put it inside the car for it to clear. Its the diameter of it thats hurting me. I measured my friends booster on his FD and I might be able to use one of those. I'm going to check a few other cars, I'm sure I can one out of something cheap that'll work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 youd be amazed how inexpensive Wilwood stuff is. im almost sold on a dual master with build in bias. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB94 Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 How about hydroboost brakes off of a newer mustang? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOSTED88tsi Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Get a willwod floor nounted clutch/brake pedal. So bossy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yzrider Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Damn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Get a willwod floor nounted clutch/brake pedal. So bossy!i agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 youd be amazed how inexpensive Wilwood stuff is. im almost sold on a dual master with build in bias. Yeah I might go that route. The thing is, all my pedals are in the stock location except the gas.. I dont need to move them, so I don't need floor mounts. I'll find a booster that will work, I'm not worried about it. More set backs last night though. I put the engine back in and must have f-ed up on one of the collectors cause I had to cut part of the pass floor out again. No big deal, just a f-ing PITA. going to finish that tonight, and start preping for paint..Sometimes I hate this car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perfhosedist Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 (edited) Yeah I might go that route. The thing is, all my pedals are in the stock location except the gas.. I dont need to move them, so I don't need floor mounts. I'll find a booster that will work, I'm not worried about it. More set backs last night though. I put the engine back in and must have f-ed up on one of the collectors cause I had to cut part of the pass floor out again. No big deal, just a f-ing PITA. going to finish that tonight, and start preping for paint..Sometimes I hate this car.You should use Wilwood's reverse mounted swing pedals like I'm using. This way you can move the pedals back and the M/C are inside the car with no more clutter under the hood. You can make mounts off your knee bar you installed to support the pedals. Your other option is to purchase normal swing pedals and mount them to the firewall just like the factory ones do. Now they will not mount to the same locations, but with all the work you've done I think you could mount pedals. I've done this for years with dirt oval track cars and the same thing apply here. Take a look at a dirt super late model car at a local dirt track and you will see they all use reverse mounted swing pedals. Also look at how they mounted them.Tilton Pedalhttp://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm15/perfhosedist/IMG_7604.jpg Edited July 14, 2010 by perfhosedist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted July 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 I was going to do use those, and prolly should have, but its another $200 that I don't have right now. I got a bunch of parts yesterday and of course the clutch cylinder was too long. Had to make a small insision into the strut tower and box it back in to make it fit. I didn't want to go through the hassle of moving the clutch pedal rearwards. This works, and you can't really tell once the resivor is on it. I'm shocked how thin the metal gets in this area of the tower. I'll weld it up and it'll be strong once again. I'm going to run bars from the strut tower to the cage anyways so it don't really matter. I also seam sealed the entire tunnel yesterday, covering up all my pretty welds... I'll get some pics of that soon. I fixed the pass side floor again allowing more room fo the exhaust. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0930.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0925.jpghttp://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0926.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drwojo Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Looks good hommie. I am glad you did the exact opposite of what I suggested. It does look fine once it is welded and the resivor is on. Get it out to a thursday event. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted July 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 sealed http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/106_0931.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 look we in the same clubhttp://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o249/yokomo99/red%20car%20related/Photo1009.jpgred V8 club w/ hole in strut tower and wilwood master club! here is whyhttp://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o249/yokomo99/red%20car%20related/Photo1005.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 haha. Now I don't feel so bad. Hey how did you thread the end piece on there? My threads are different and I can't use the heim joint that is offered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 i cut the wilwood rod down to a relative length and just ran a die (8x 1.25mm) over the standard threads and kinda converted them to metric.or you could take a standard nut or barrel nut and weld 2 plates on the sides and drill a hole for the pivot pin. check out this link for some ideas, this is old school Lamborghini parts. My link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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