Bill Hincher

Took a road trip to New England and looked up some family history

yeah I studied the rear yoke a couple years ago, I need to sort through all my notes and get back up to speed

yeah, that is the plan, but I need to source the proper yoke to the given trans to keep the cost down on the drive shafts

no man, I bought a new shop last year http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/shop.jpg 4942Alexis rd Sylvain Ohio

these are most of the different style housings I build but not all of them http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/motor%20mounts%20001.JPG

no Phil, that's the narrow block

I had never wanted to get so involved in all of this, but that's life, after I built the housings, people asked about the motor mounts which lead to the drive shafts which in turn went into shifters, so I built this tool to help me build everything required to complete any swap with any motor or trans combination and place everything where it should be http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/tailshaftmount.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/tailshaftmount1.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/tailshaftmount2.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/tailshaftmount3.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/tailshaftmount4.jpg

The T 5 is built to accept all models including Chevy and Ford plus the TKO series http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/T54G63bellhousing.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/T54G63bellhousing1.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/T54G63bellhousing2.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/T54G63bellhousing3.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/T54G63bellhousing4.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/T54G63bellhousing5.jpg

1

http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie15.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie16.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie17.jpg and I wanted to build oil pans http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie18.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie19.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie20.jpg

http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie6.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie7.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie8.jpg I wanted to be able to build the correct driveshaft so I added this flange in the exact location of the Starion final drive http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie9.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie10.jpg I needed to build correct shifters for all the different transmissions too so I located the correct shifter on the frame as well http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie11.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie12.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie13.jpg

I built a replica of a Conquest frame so I can complete drivelines from motor mounts to driveshafts http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie1.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie2.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie3.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie4.jpg http://projectzerog.com/userpages/billhincher/rotisorie5.jpg

I apologize for being late I do have the flywheel here, I do intend to get it involved, and I will be with is shortly, its been crazy

here is whats going on, the new T 56 housings accept either the short shaft or the long shaft Trans http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T56EVO%20and%20narrow%20block/T56narrowblock1.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T56EVO%20and%20narrow%20block/T56narrowblock2.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T56EVO%20and%20narrow%20block/T56narrowblock3.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T56EVO%20and%20narrow%20block/T56narrowblock4.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T56EVO%20and%20narrow%20block/T56narrowblock5.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T56EVO%20and%20narrow%20block/T56narrowblock6.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T56EVO%20and%20narrow%20block/T56narrowblock7.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T56EVO%20and%20narrow%20block/T56narrowblock8.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T56EVO%20and%20narrow%20block/T56narrowblock9.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T56EVO%20and%20narrow%20block/T56narrowblock10.jpg

everyone should go to Russia a couple times and have socialism explained to them, they would be veeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrryyyyyyyyyyyyyy happy with what we have on a footnote: the last time I was there an explosion that took place at the mall, the police arrested EVERYONE of middle east decent and then sorted them out

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=528130683950137&set=vb.100002596308162&type=2&theater

there is no word back from Bill because you told me you didn't need any help. I don't really know what's going on.

I got to understand where to place the clutch fork on the new housing

Your the man BOHO you make the call on what clutch you want and I will build it, I probalby need to scrounge up a R 154/ 2JZ bellhousing somewhere

the 2JZ R 154 clutch/flywheel/ starter arraingement should be kept intact, It can handle the power and its readily available, everything I see uses a 'pull' style clutch, which I am no big fan of but there it is Having said all that, if an improvement could be made at the beginning of the idea, what would it be? is there a desired flywheel over another? prefered clutch? what about double disc set ups?

I want to build the T56 for the 2JZ and I need the right clutch/flywheel. clutch control units

I need some input on the 2JZ original clutch controls, as in pivot ball and clutch fork from the original R 154 set up whats popular? what is the desired clutch/flywheel? Thanks Bill

Its pretty well finished, I need to add a throw out collar and thats it http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock87.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock81.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock80.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock82.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock83.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock84.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock85.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock86.jpg

It takes two gauges to get a proper reading, the only information you get from the original temp guage is the where the coolant exits the engine, its not the hottest place thats in the cylinder head at the exhaust valve, but its how hot the coolant is at the thermostate you need a second guage at the lower radiater hose to find the coolant temp when the coolant exits the radiater and enters the engine couple of reasons for this, first it tells you if your radiater is working, second you can test if you are 'overcooling' If your coolant temp is 10 to 12 degrees lower as it exits the radiater back into the engine, you are in good shape, if you are dumping 20 degree cooler temps back into the engine, you create a thermo stress/shock on the engine and if you are only getting 6 degree drop, you got a overheating problem so get two matched guages, place a tube in the lower hose and place a second guage there and tune your thermostate and radiater to match the engines needs I know, I get too deep, I'm sorry..............I am German

I just keep cleaning it up and adding features, I took about a pound out of it, I got it down to 14lbs http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock75.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock76.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock77.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock78.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/T56wideblock79.jpg