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Road race/drift LS1 swap


Convette
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yeah I'm going to run two pipes on one side of the linkage and two on the other. I got plenty of room. Nah only mr2s in the front, the rear is plently low, and I got like 3.5 inches of strut travel in the rear. Leveling out the motor is a PITA. I got it set 3 degrees tilted back, and centered between the strut towers. Its just a b!tch when when you got a f-ed up garage floor
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Good stuff dude. Suggestion tho, if you haven't already got something. If space allows, add something like this for added strength. I'm not sure how much front to back stress is put on the motor mounts, but it def. can't hurt.

 

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr71/dmyers151/1269268557_1.jpg

 

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr71/dmyers151/1269268557_2.jpg

Edited by dmyers151
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good point I thought about that, even thought of angling them outward. I like the second pic you posted cause a header tube will have to go real close to that. There will be no front to back movement, but while I'm at it...I might as well. Most of them I've seen are a T shape going to the frame. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/7204501_R.jpg I could do something like this. These are $120... I'm in at $50 right now and got a bunch of steel left over.. I'm getting my gas tanks filled tonight, so I can do some cutting... More pics tomorrow.
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Took the day off yesterday, and got a lot done. Thanks again to drwojo. got the motor mounts welded, they aren't going anywhere...lol cleaned up the tubs, they look stock now. Got the steering welded up too.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1269268938.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1269482070.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1269482105.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1269482522.jpg

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http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1269563665-1.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1269608772.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1269563976.jpg

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http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1269732931.jpg

almost done with the stance.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1269786501.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1269728484.jpg

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got the engine cleaned up and oil pan swapped. Went with the Improved racing trap door baffle.. Between that and an accusump, oil starvation should be taken care of. also fabbed up a fire wall mount for the steering... still have a BFHole in the fire wall...

[

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1270484882.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1270484850.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1270484825.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1270484804.jpg

rolled it outside to get some sun

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1270428968.jpg

Edited by idriftjunk
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Too much tire IMO

 

 

Oh yeah, the front tires are some free junk I had laying around off my moms car, just test fitting different sizes. I'm going to order 225-45's maybe 35's soon enough. They look like balloons on there I know.

 

Bill, Thats how I got my points. What my problem is, is that the location of the tierod point is too close to the rotor causing the tierod to hit it. So I either need to space out the rotor and caliper, or move the ball joint point and tie rod point inward. like so.

 

from this

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1270602596.jpg

to this

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1270602635.jpg

 

Much like what they offer for AE86s one complete cnc'd steering knuckle, that gives you more angle.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/knuckles_01.jpg

 

My problem with this is that it may put more wear on the balljoints, and wheel bearings... ?

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i was just thinking about ackerman angle recently. road race and drift would require totally different types of ackerman. since drifting you have the wheels turned counter to the angle of the car through the corner, you would almost zero ackerman or even anti-ackerman to allow you to drift/steer through a corner . \

does that make sense?

 

try making a chassis drawing of you car sideways through a turn with your wheels at full lock and you'll see that the outside wheel will be taking WAY to large of a radius. basically the outside tire will just be scrubbing the whole time if the inside tire follows the proper racing line through the apex.

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I donno? the instant center with more ackerman angle would be set furthur to the back of the car, I wonder where you would place the I/C to be at your advantage?

at any rate when you push the car to 'drift' extremes, your slip angle of your tires will be more important then the ackerman angle

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