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-What are your block and head modifications?

-Do you have a wideband?

-Is your FPR a rising rate style?

 

Your going to want your base fuel pressure at idle to be around 37psi.

 

I can't be sure but I don't think a stock block and head will hold 20psi.

Edited by dmyers151
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-What are your block and head modifications?

-Do you have a wideband?

-Is your FPR a rising rate style?

 

Your going to want your base fuel pressure at idle to be around 37psi.

 

I can't be sure but I don't think a stock block and head will hold 20psi.

 

 

well,rebuilt bottom end,bs elim ,.40 over hyp. pistons,njv head with street port and polish,oversized valves with superflow mod(bottom of valve stem diameter is shaved),hd valve springs,mech. rockers, stock cam,uego wideband,255 walboro, no not a rising rate regulator,1g mass, isc removed,ported throttle body. i think thats it

 

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well,rebuilt bottom end,bs elim ,.40 over hyp. pistons,njv head with street port and polish,oversized valves with superflow mod(bottom of valve stem diameter is shaved),hd valve springs,mech. rockers, stock cam,uego wideband,255 walboro, no not a rising rate regulator,1g mass, isc removed,ported throttle body. i think thats it

 

From what I understand, the 1G MAS usually causes the car to run richer than stock, so thats a start. However, I wouldn't suggest going over 14 or 15psi without first upgrading your injectors and maybe going to a GM MAS and MAF-T unit so you can actually tune your AFR's once you establish where your at.

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From what I understand, the 1G MAS usually causes the car to run richer than stock, so thats a start. However, I wouldn't suggest going over 14 or 15psi without first upgrading your injectors and maybe going to a GM MAS and MAF-T unit so you can actually tune your AFR's once you establish where your at.

 

 

Agreed. The higher you boost a turbo, the shorter the life span is. I'll leave it at that.

 

CALIBER 308

 

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Don't forget about timing, the stock system will only pull out about 7 degrees and is designed for stock boost levels so going above that with the stock timing system will provide too much advance.

 

Scott

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well,rebuilt bottom end,bs elim ,.40 over hyp. pistons,njv head with street port and polish,oversized valves with superflow mod(bottom of valve stem diameter is shaved),hd valve springs,mech. rockers, stock cam,uego wideband,255 walboro, no not a rising rate regulator,1g mass, isc removed,ported throttle body. i think thats it

 

So, What is you fuel pressure at 18 psi ????? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?? If so, Ever checked it on boost to see what your real FP is at 18 psi. How do you set it without a RRFPR??? Here's the way you do it: Install a FPG so you can read it on boost. Installed a Adjustable RRFPR so you can set your FP. What year ECU are you using? Any injector modifications????? I have a s--tload of mods on my engine. Would I ever boost to 18 psi without a way to read my fuel pressure and a RRFPR to set it??? HELL NO. It's your car..... Do what you think is best.

 

CALIBER 308

 

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What ecu are you running? My guess is an 89. Here's another guess, go much higher and you'll meet Mr. fuel cut. Don't always trust the wideband 100%, especially if it's close to the turbo. Turn it down to 15-17 and call it a wrap until you get a better FMS. Just my $.02

 

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Fuel cut... lol We'll never get away from that retarded term. So, what "cuts" the fuel?

 

 

Almost nobody here runs a RRFPR, one where you can add 1, 2, 3 etc extra psi of fuel to every pound of boost.

 

What everyone runs are BCFPR's, with the occasional one that is baseline adjustable.

 

 

This has all been done before. 18psi on a TD06-18G(Greenstar).. All he needed was a baseline adjustable BCFPR.

 

 

 

If you have a solid build and the AFR's are in check. Where's the problem?

 

Yes, the turbo will die faster with higher boost levels. And?

 

 

Check the plugs after a few good romps, see what they look like.

(BTW what plugs are you running?)

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Fuel cut... lol We'll never get away from that retarded term. So, what "cuts" the fuel?

 

 

Almost nobody here runs a RRFPR, one where you can add 1, 2, 3 etc extra psi of fuel to every pound of boost.

 

What everyone runs are BCFPR's, with the occasional one that is baseline adjustable.

 

 

This has all been done before. 18psi on a TD06-18G(Greenstar).. All he needed was a baseline adjustable BCFPR.

 

 

 

If you have a solid build and the AFR's are in check. Where's the problem?

 

Yes, the turbo will die faster with higher boost levels. And?

 

 

Check the plugs after a few good romps, see what they look like.

(BTW what plugs are you running?)

 

I agree sounds like his AFR is in check. whats the big deal?

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yea, not sure what all the fuss is about..i can understand playing it safe. but im pushing around 15 lbs with a 16g...maybe not a big 16 or super 16 but its still a bigger turbo. and my engine has minor mods and no engine work. and to top it off my car still runs ars rich cuz of the 1g mass.

 

theres also a thread on hear explaining how the stock bottom end is actually pretty darn strong in comparison to other engines that have made some good numbers.

 

this guys engine is has been built.. and the afr seems good at 18. the only thing i would say, is take it to a dyno and do maybe 3 runs so they can monitor the engine on the computer, they'll let you know if it can handle 20 lbs.

 

ive got a friend that has a quest over here with a built,ported, and o-ring engine, pushing 28lbs on an 18g with a water/meth kit and is on a bottle every once and a while..well over 300 to the wheels...ohh yea, did i mention hes still on tbi (ported of course) with stock 89 ECU and a 1g mass with no signs of leaning out any.

 

anything is doable, as long as its tuned good :-).

 

 

 

Daniel

 

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ive got a friend that has a quest over here with a built,ported, and o-ring engine, pushing 28lbs on an 18g with a water/meth kit and is on a bottle every once and a while..well over 300 to the wheels...ohh yea, did i mention hes still on tbi (ported of course) with stock 89 ECU and a 1g mass with no signs of leaning out any.

 

anything is doable, as long as its tuned good :-).

 

 

 

Daniel

 

 

Sounds like ChrisViper's old car. He has an additional injector in the OVCP with a greddy emanage ultimate controlling it.

Edited by JustPaus_88TSi
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Colder plugs can ward off detonation, they are a good thing for higher boost like 20psi. I had ngk bpr8es plugs in my car forever and didn't have a single problem. I recently bought some 7's and will be going back to 8s because of what I want to do with my engine. I recommend 8's for you.

 

And if your wideband says it's below 12:1 AFR, keep going with the boost! why stop at 20? if your boost controller is good enough to adjust in small increments, just bump it up a tiny bit until you start seeing the AFR's lean out, then turn it back a little and leave it. I want a stock engine with a big turbo so bad so I can do the easy cheap mods like this.

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