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2.0 swap coolant hose suggestions

89onaquest

By 89onaquest,
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89onaquest Newbie

89onaquest

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A shot showing that AutoZone part number L-1065 radiator hose can go from the stock lower location to the water pump side outlet.

The waterpump is being worked on today to have a new tube mounted into it to hook up to the rad. hose shown.

 

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddim...zMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

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89onaquest Newbie

89onaquest

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Forgot to add that the new wateroulet neck is made of 2 90* fittings, 1 45*, 2 "close" pipes, 1 2 steps above "close" pipe. All are 1" Schedule 40.

 

The outlet flange is made of 1/4" plate steel.

I have specific directions for construction if asked I will post.

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89onaquest Newbie

89onaquest

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against the firewall.  No offense man, but that car looks like a home depot special

 

Well I must say that is looks alot, and I mean ALOT better then some of the others I have seen that have done the swap.

 

The only thing that looks odd is the wateroutlet neck. Which cannot be seen once the hoses and what not are installed. I will say that the heater hooses will look pretty bad, because they are forced to run all over the engine bay because of the 2.0 water oulets/inlets placement on the engine.

 

And no, the thermostat is not against/behind the head in that install. It is there from the factory, but there is so little room back there that Joe is moving it. It's new location will be at the end of that scdhule 40 piping.

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DJpowerHaus Newbie

DJpowerHaus

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Great work!  And as for the "home depot" thing.. I think its awesome and dont let any drag race, car show,wants-his-full-number-restoration-to-no-get-a-chip-in-the-paint-behind get to you.
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89onaquest Newbie

89onaquest

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Great work!  And as for the "home depot" thing.. I think its awesome and dont let any drag race, car show,wants-his-full-number-restoration-to-no-get-a-chip-in-the-paint-behind get to you.

Well the purpose was to gain some MUCH needed clearance at the wateroutlet.

 

You can vouch that there is next to NOTHING there even when removing that 1 bolt, you MIGHT have 3/128" and that's it. And once that engine begins flex on the Trq, WHAM, it is in the firewall.

 

I spoke to Joe earlier, so he is supposed to take a few more pics comparing the 2 on the clearance. He just said there is just no comparison.

 

1/4-5/16" with the setup he made, or the above mentioned, butt hair clearance. He will send them to me for me to get on WTDR and I will post them up when he does.

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89onaquest Newbie

89onaquest

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why not use a truck water pump then the wp outlet will face towards the passenger fender.

That's no big deal.

The side outlet plug is removible.

the wateroutlet neck on the back of the block is the trouble...

 

though will have to go to junk yard now to look at that pipe too....

may just be a different thermostat outlet neck...

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MainstreaM Newbie

MainstreaM

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Im going to be working on that problem as well.  A friend is machining out a plate for the thermostat housing out of 1/2 inch aluminum and I will weld a pipe to it that is laid on its side.  I'll post pics when it is finished. hopefully it will not stick out no further than about 1 1/2 inches from the head.
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Zer0fist Newbie

Zer0fist

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How about fabing up a flange and run the water "hard pipe"  around the back of the head then under the intake manifold,  and finally to the radiator.  you could relocate the T-stat housing to the front  of the intake manfold -  thats what i'd do anyway.

 

That would keep it away from your engines hot side and give the bay a cleaner look which is always a plus..

 

But,  good job and keep at it. :D

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89onaquest Newbie

89onaquest

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How about fabing up a flange and run the water "hard pipe"  around the back of the head then under the intake manifold,  and finally to the radiator.  you could relocate the T-stat housing to the front  of the intake manfold -  thats what i'd do anyway.

 

That would keep it away from your engines hot side and give the bay a cleaner look whic is always a plus..

 

But,  good job and keep at it. :D

 

Ok...

There is no room under the intake manifold. That is where the starter resides, as well as the Knock sensor, the motor mount plates, the steering box... get the idea?

That is also there the outlets for the Quest heater core at located.

 

The stock DSM had the metal piping going over/under the manifold, so thier engineers must have known something we do not.

I suggested using metal tubing (such as 1.25" Conduit) because it can resist heat soak, and not be too terribly effected by the proximity of the exhaust manifold.

 

You just have to use pieces of fexible hose to connect things up.

 

Right now Joe and I are looking at making an adapter plate out of aluminum, that will be welded to the stock upper outlet, that will have relocated bolt holes to re-angle the pipe more straight out the side to the passanger firewall.

 

We are also dealing with drilling 3" holes in the radiator core support to run the 2.5" zinc washed intercooler piping through as well. Joe got another part of the exhaust today, the resonator, so it is now welded to the center pipe of his "in fabrication" exhaust.

 

Just in case anyone is interested, it is all 3" mandrel 304 stainless. And including the 3" resonator, and 3" Megan N1 muffler the entire system is under $250, including the 2.5" 304 stainless down pipe with flex section and 304 S/S exhaust hangers. Just add welding if you do not have a welder. Not to shabby...

 

Pics to be taken once done.

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Zer0fist Newbie

Zer0fist

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Ok...

There is no room under the intake manifold. That is where the starter resides, as well as the Knock sensor, the motor mount plates, the steering box... get the idea?

That is also there the outlets for the Quest heater core at located.

 

The stock DSM had the metal piping going over/under the manifold, so thier engineers must have known something we do not.

I suggested using metal tubing (such as 1.25" Conduit) because it can resist heat soak, and not be too terribly effected by the proximity of the exhaust manifold.

 

You just have to use pieces of fexible hose to connect things up.

 

Right now Joe and I are looking at making an adapter plate out of aluminum, that will be welded to the stock upper outlet, that will have relocated bolt holes to re-angle the pipe more straight out the side to the passanger firewall.

 

We are also dealing with drilling 3" holes in the radiator core support to run the 2.5" zinc washed intercooler piping through as well. Joe got another part of the exhaust today, the resonator, so it is now welded to the center pipe of his "in fabrication" exhaust.

 

Just in case anyone is interested, it is all 3" mandrel 304 stainless. And including the 3" resonator, and 3" Megan N1 muffler the entire system is under $250, including the 2.5" 304 stainless down pipe with flex section and 304 S/S exhaust hangers. Just add welding if you do not have a welder. Not to shabby...

 

Pics to be taken once done.

 

2.0 swap coolant hose............. "suggestions"

 

Your funny, "There is no room under the intake manifold. That is where the starter resides, as well as the Knock sensor, the motor mount plates, the steering box... get the idea?

That is also there the outlets for the Quest heater core at located."...  

there is ample room between the starter and the intake manofold for a at least 2.5 inch pipe (if bent correctly) to pass through let alone a 1.75 - 2 inch water pipe (hell i put my for-arm through that space to tighten the mount for the axel millions of times... "get the idea?" ),    and the knock sensor...      so,   as long as you not running the AC compressor it would work.    

 

your still funny, "The stock DSM had the metal piping going over/under the manifold, so thier engineers must have known something we do not." ...

 Ya its under but,  gee what do I know about DSMs and 4G63Ts...  ::) maybe i should post my God like Talon up here for you. (sombody please tell me how,  i cant get it to work)

:-*  Now pay attn...  the main water pipe is under the manifold because on a DSM that is the FRONT OF THE MOTOR,  and makes it much easier for connect the system to the radiator,  which is....  on the front of the car "hay what 'd ya know,  it makes sence" 

 

Is a Starion a DSM?

no,  so why should it have to fallow what the "Engineers"  know?

 

I said great job,  and I MENT IT.  but my opinion of your set up is just and only that,  an opinion.  My opinion wont make your project any faster or slower,  just throwing ideas

 

and again.........    good job,  and keep at it,  we need more innovators like you.

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89onaquest Newbie

89onaquest

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2.0 swap coolant hose............. "suggestions"

 

Your funny, "There is no room under the intake manifold. That is where the starter resides, as well as the Knock sensor, the motor mount plates, the steering box... get the idea?

That is also there the outlets for the Quest heater core at located."...  

there is ample room between the starter and the intake manofold for a at least 2.5 inch pipe (if bent correctly) to pass through let alone a 1.75 - 2 inch water pipe (hell i put my for-arm through that space to tighten the mount for the axel millions of times... "get the idea?" ),    and the knock sensor...      so,   as long as you not running the AC compressor it would work.    

 

your still funny, "The stock DSM had the metal piping going over/under the manifold, so thier engineers must have known something we do not." ...

 Ya its under but,  gee what do I know about DSMs and 4G63Ts...  ::) maybe i should post my God like Talon up here for you. (sombody please tell me how,  i cant get it to work)

:-*  Now pay attn...  the main water pipe is under the manifold because on a DSM that is the FRONT OF THE MOTOR,  and makes it much easier for connect the system to the radiator,  which is....  on the front of the car "hay what 'd ya know,  it makes sence" 

 

Is a Starion a DSM?

no,  so why should it have to fallow what the "Engineers"  know?

 

I said great job,  and I MENT IT.  but my opinion of your set up is just and only that,  an opinion.  My opinion wont make your project any faster or slower,  just throwing ideas

 

and again.........    good job,  and keep at it,  we need more innovators like you.

No need for the attitude.

The same engineering can and does go into both cars, thay are afterall both made by Mitsubishi. If I recall correctly, the Aussie/Japan version with the 2.0, did have this configuration. Kinda where I got the idea. Why reinvent the wheel?

 

And I simply do not see how or why someone would go through the hastle of bending multiple pieces of tubing to do something that is very visibly much easier to do/solve.

 

And we are not talking about a DSM engine compartment, we are talking about the Quest's. And yes, in the DSM compartment, it is actually very roomy under the intake. Not nearly so with the engine facing N-S. in a Quest compartment.

 

And even with moving the engine forward 2" there is still minimal room at best behind the head, so why make things more complicated?

 

I did not say that this was/is the only way to do it, but it seems, looks and sounds much easier then yours. And if someone DID put in A/C that idea goes right out the window. Just off hand I see no less then at least 7 90* bends (or equall that equivilent for direction) that have to be dealt with to route it under the intake, plus it being a !@#$% to do anything with the starter if it goes out, (that includes replacing the clutch) replacing the knock sensor, basically dealing with anything on that side of the engine below the intake manifold.

 

So if you plan on doing the complete swap, and having EVERYTHING functional, do it once, and not worry about it. Yes, A/C will be installed on this vehicle eventually.

So no, your way was never even considered.

 

So, I again say, is the suggestion I made the only way to do it? By all means no it is not, I never said it was. But is it the easiest, least restrictive and more "ease of repair/service" in the future way... at least I think so.

 

You have 1 90* rubber hose bend, 1 upper radiator hose (from another vehicle) that fits perfect, and a length of cheap ($8) metal tube. Your done.

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89onaquest Newbie

89onaquest

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 Ya its under but,  gee what do I know about DSMs and 4G63Ts...  ::) maybe i should post my God like Talon up here for you. (sombody please tell me how,  i cant get it to work)

:-*  Now pay attn...  the main water pipe is under the manifold because on a DSM that is the FRONT OF THE MOTOR,  and makes it much easier for connect the system to the radiator,  which is....  on the front of the car "hay what 'd ya know,  it makes sence" 

and again.........    good job,  and keep at it,  we need more innovators like you.

 

Personally I could care less about your "Talon" it's not a quest, and is not a part of this solution process.

 

I will pay attention when you have somthing worth listening too.

If you think bending up tubing, going through a routing nightmare is fun, hell go for it.

I will not feel sorry for you when you need to work on that part of the cooling system, or on that side of the engine. Imagine a hose connector goes out behind the head... I feel no pity because of the extreme angles your going to have to do to get to those hose clamps.

 

I never said this was the only way. But it sure seems a whole lot easier, and definately easier to service. No remote thermostat needed, 4 hose clamps in the wide open. A very cheap upper radiator hose that is availible everywhere.

 

But hell, what do I know right? ::)

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Zer0fist Newbie

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I'm sure you know alot,   after all you got a 4G63T into your Staion.  Not very many can do that.

 

I was thinking you would do a  turbo mounted higher (instead of hanging) that seems to be the norm.  anyway thats one reason I said route it the otherway + it would be cleaner...  dont you think?

 

"If you think bending up tubing, going through a routing nightmare is fun, hell go for it."...  sorry ^_^ I do,   Fabrocation is just my thing,  I plan to retire to it.  oh ya and i see 90 90 45 45 if I did it,  but again it wouldent work with AC soo its proly a nogo for what you need.

 

"Imagine a hose connector goes out behind the head... I feel no pity because of the extreme angles your going to have to do to get to those hose clamps. "   ... imagine one piece aluminum tubing that has no hose or clamps except  on the water neck,  thats what I was getting at.  remember i said "fab up a flange"  thats what the flange was for  8)

 

look,  i brought up my DSM because you made it sound like i just  got into this thing when in fact ive been messing with this stuff for 9 years.   its not my claim to fame but its the most complicated and cleanest install (no sterio) of anything i ever did.  too bad its sold...

 

But ya forget my DSM,    the only reason i was on this thred was because of your motor swap.  Swaps interest me greatly,  and ya i do have alot of ideas. AND it looked like people where ragging on your project....  somthing about  "home depot"

I just thougt a fresh idea would help you out.

if you dont like them then sorry man,   but your not the only one who owns a Starion or a 4G63,  please pick my brain...  i'm more than glad to help.

 

;)   nuthen but luv bebe,  i'm going to bed.

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Zer0fist Newbie

Zer0fist

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ok,  bub  i have an idea you might like.    

 

my G54 if off the the machine shop as of yesterday,  so I have a Starion with an empty engine bay.

 

The complete setup front to back on my DSM is sold but i need to dismantel it so i can install it on the buyers car.  BUT  the Long block and a few other odds and ends are still mine.  

If you want another point of view or want to brainstorm I can test fit your idas for you and take pictures.  I just need details on your engines placement.   I'd love the experance,  and sence my G54 will be gone for a bit its not a prob for me  (i've spent so much time in thinking about 2JZ ans 13B swaps this would accually give me room to think... if that makes sence ???)

 

The buyer for the DSM shell will be here Monday or Tuesday,  so I'm pulling the 4G63 tonite if i can but proly tomarrrow nite.  

 

hows that sound ?   shoot me a PM  

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89onaquest Newbie

89onaquest

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We (Joe and I) have everything on our end figured out the way they are going to get done already.

 

The last real part to be done is the new waterneck outlet, it needs a 30* bend aluminum tube welded on. That will but the thermostat back in factory position, stock placed sensors, just a modded water neck outlet.

 

Joe is waiting on the last parts to come in now.

The turbo rebuild kit, wire loom, and header wrap (going to run some harness wires through a tube) and put the header wrap as a heat barrier to protect them.

The "drop" placement of the turbo is for simple installation, nothing more nothing less. It is a modded DSM manifold.

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