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GP: MK1 PULLEY KIT -- CLOSED


101PROPOSE
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ok i will admit it. i am a total idiot. when i was looking at importwarriors pictures before i was looking at the tooth that is 9 after where the sensor is mounted as the missing tooth (the one that is kinda white looking). I have my pulley mounted 180° out. 101 your bracket might work fine.

 

I am sorry for any trouble i may have caused you.

Edited by travs87tsi
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101,

 

I'll take one aluminum distributor plug.

 

I may also be interested in one red crank pulley with trigger wheel and sensor bracket if you or someone else can tell me what system or systems this crank pulley works with other than Megasquirt. Does it work with AEM, Haltech, Hawk, Motec, etc.????

 

Thanks & Happy Thanksgiving!!

Dan

 

just finished the sample plug for the distributor.

i still need to put on a rubber O-ring and maybe a logo on the plate.

$19.99 each

let me know what you think.

thanks,

101

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Thanks for the response, Dcrasta. I'm waiting to hear back from a couple companies (ie Haltech) whether their systems support the EDIS 36-1 trigger wheel or not. I have yet to purchase an EMS, but when I do I want to be sure this crank pulley will work for me.

 

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!!

Dan

 

 

EDIS is standardized so any system that supports the 36 tooth edis should work find.
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101,

I paypal'd you $20 yesterday and would like it to be allocated as my deposit toward one Red Anodized Aluminum Crank Pulley with EDIS 36-1 Trigger Wheel, one Aluminum Sensor Bracket and one Aluminum Distributor Plug with O-Ring. Keep up the great work!

 

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!!

Dan

 

 

 

FYI - for those that may have had the same concerns as me, here's the reply I received from Scott at Haltech:

Note that Scott confused our G54B engine with the 4G... regardless, the reply contains good info.

 

The E6X, E8 and E11v2 all fully support the 36-1 motronic style trigger

in hall effect(digital) or reluctor mode (analogue).

 

Please double check your trigger sensor however, as the 4g engine did

not have a 36-1 trigger as factory, it was a 4 pulse reluctor style.

Alternatively you could use the distributor out of a Magna which is a 4+1

full sequential trigger system (hall effect also!)

 

If there is anything else we can do please let me know,

 

Kind Regards,

Scott Hilzinger

Haltech Sales / Support

Ph. +612 9729 0999

Fax. +612 9729 0900

www.haltech.com

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hello members,

 

sorry for the late reply.

 

i tried the bracket today and took some pictures.

 

bracket looks pretty good with the sleeves but the bolts i bought were too short.

 

once i get the right size bolts, i will check the timing and the bracket position, making sure the sensor is pointing at the right tooth.

 

 

we have 18 orders.

final GP for the pulley ------------------------------ $119.99

bracket with two long bolts and two sleeves ------ $24.99

dist. plug --------------------------------------------- $19.99

s & h via usps priority within 50 states ----------- $9.99

 

total -------------------------------------------------- $174.96

 

payments are due now and it will take about 1-2 weeks before the delivery.

 

thanks,

101

 

http://www.101propose.com/star/bracket2.jpg

 

http://www.101propose.com/star/bracket3.jpg

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Looks good, can you move it inward towards the block so the sensor is centered over the teeth?? Looks like the spacers can be 1/4" shorter. However, I'm not sure if the picture shows it tightened down all the way.

 

Will it interfere with the AC belt??

 

-Robert

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Hey 101! It might be a little late for this improvement. But how about making the bolts, a studs style with a nut and washer instead to hold the sensor bracket? That way when it is time to replace the belts, you just un-screw the nuts and pull the sensor bracket off only and the studs remain in place.

Let me know what you think. SEE LINK BELOW CHECK OUT PART# ARP-235-7206 something like this would be great and needed.

 

See link for image of a ARP BOLT.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...mp;autoview=sku

Edited by Jetspd150
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hello,

 

i took out the radiator and tried the bracket today with the crank at TDC. unfortunately it was a little off and i was not able to point the sensor exactly to the 9th tooth. also i found out that in order to use that bracket, super long bolts were needed, so i made a new bracket.

 

check out the picture and let me know if any corrections are needed.

 

thanks,

101

 

http://www.101propose.com/star/bracket-a.jpg

 

http://www.101propose.com/star/bracket-b.jpg

 

http://www.101propose.com/star/bracket-c.jpg

 

http://www.101propose.com/star/bracket-d.jpg

 

http://www.101propose.com/star/bracket-e.jpg

 

http://www.101propose.com/star/bracket-f.jpg

 

http://www.101propose.com/star/bracket-g.jpg

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101 is that still hitting the ninth tooth in that position? Also how about removing the two nuts on the back side of the first plate and just make the two center holes threaded only for the bolts and use a compression or starwasher on the top of the bolts. Again this will make it easier to remove the sensor assembly when time to change the belts. just my 2 cents. Other wise it looks great.

 

Better yet keep the two nuts on the back after all and just use a double ended stud instead. Then all you need is two nuts and two lock washer on the front to hold the sensor braket. Again having a simple way of removing the sensor bracket will make it easy to change the belts.

Edited by Jetspd150
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101 is that still hitting the ninth tooth in that position? Also how about removing the two nuts on the back side of the first plate and just make the two center holes threaded only for the bolts and use a compression or starwasher on the top of the bolts. Again this will make it easier to remove the sensor assembly when time to change the belts. just my 2 cents. Other wise it looks great.

 

Better yet keep the two nuts on the back after all and just use a double ended stud instead. Then all you need is two nuts and two lock washer on the front to hold the sensor braket. Again having a simple way of removing the sensor bracket will make it easy to change the belts.

 

 

Jet,

 

yes the sensor is pointing at the 9th tooth after the missing tooth. see pic below.

 

http://www.101propose.com/star/bracket-gg.jpg

 

only time you need to remove the bracket is when you change the power steering belt.

 

alt belt and ac belt can be changed without removing the bracket.

 

and i think it is easy to remove two timing chain cover bolts and no need to remove the bracket. just loosen them up and slide them out a little to make some room to take out the powersteering belt.

 

but if members prefer to use studs, we can do it that way. what do you think?

 

thanks,

101

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