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  • Interests
    Starquests forever!
  • Location
    Washington DC FOOL!

Dcrasta's Achievements


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  1. Hero drives a Starion @ 1:43 Looks like a 85 flatsider Durbin Maroon .> Sweet! Dibbs! Happy Halloween Btw.
  2. Just a hello out to Shelby. Thanks for all the help over the years. Glad to see you're keeping active and sharing that wealth of knowledge. Hope all is well OT!
  3. Hey Ye Ole Wise One. Good to see you still advising these chowder heads !
  4. I probably shouldn't do this, and my girlfriend and brother will kill me, but I will PM my # to you. Can I come take a look over the weekend?
  5. Every breath we should be thankful for. Every heartbeat could be our last. We have to have the courage to confront the things we can change/control, and have the intelligence to let go of the things we cannot, and the wisdom to tell the difference between the two. I encourage everyone to try to enjoy the relationships between friends and family to the fullest, and not take things for granted. Life is fleeting, and can be lost in the blink of an eye. Hope things work out for you Kreal, you seem like a decent guy. Take good care.
  6. He could be a civilian contractor.
  7. Hey dude. I dont post much but I live in DC and work in Columbia. Depending on how far Columbia is from you I can help you get your car sorted. As far as the timing. Car has to be warm Idle has to be set to 900 rpms (Idle speed is important because the ported vacuum to the advance/retard is unblocked @~ 1100 rpms. You should adjust the TPS and ISC before adjusting timing Connect your inductive timing light to Red(positive) and Black(ground). Connect the inductive clip to the spark plug lead for #1 (near the dist). Make sure your wires are not near the belts. Start the engine After the idle settles, slightly loosen the distributor nut (or bolt) Using the timing light, aim at the crank pully. A mark on the pully is the 0- mark. U want to align that mark with the -10 mark before the main mark. (looks like 20-[dash]-10-[dash]-0-[dash]-[10]-[dash]-20 You want to align to the first 10. That is considered 10 degrees BTDC (before top dead center). U can cheat up to 12 degrees if you want a little more off the line. High boost applications may cheat the other way. Never set it to -0 unless you know what you are doing. This is a good time to replace the cap and rotor, and check the advance weights in the distributor to make sure they move freely.
  8. His turbos are awesome. Send him your core and he can make whatever you want.
  9. Dammit that is too close to me and too low a price but I would be killed by my woman and my brother if I even PM you for more pictures and details (especially rear quarters, interior, and under hood shots please). (PM sent..)
  10. Wow I get out of the Conquest hobby business and now all these nice cars are tempting me to get back in again.. Man your car is pretty sweet. GLWS!
  11. I notice a few threads about people ordering hybrid turbos and not being happy. Well, I deal with a shop (Local to me) run by 1 guy, but he is a really good guy with great fabrication skills. He has built two Hybrid Rx7 turbos for me(on with over 100k miles on it and still running strong) and a nice 20G I just sold to a member on the forum. Tim's Turbos in FallsChurch Va. They will rebuild any turbo to any specs and are extremely fast with excellent prices. Tell him you are from the Starquest Forum and Hugh sent you and you will receive a pricing discount (based on what you want done). http://www.timsturbos.com/ is the website. Best of luck guys! DC
  12. Guys, sorry if I'm not responding fast enough. I check the forum twice a day or so.
  13. NA valves. It is brand new with a mechanical valveset. It was to be the basis of a performance build, however I have not put any tools to it.
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